Rose's Heavenly Cakes (50 page)
Read Rose's Heavenly Cakes Online
Authors: Rose Levy Beranbaum
Special Equipment
One 13 by 9 by 2-inch (about 16 cups) baking pan
Mix the Yolks, Sugar, and Marsala
Refrigerate a mixing bowl for at least 15 minutes. (Chill the mixer's beaters alongside.)
Have ready a silicone spatula and medium bowl.
In a large round-bottomed bowl set over a saucepan of simmering water, whisk together the yolks, ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons of the sugar, and 3 tablespoons of the marsala. (Don't let the water touch the bottom of the bowl.) If you have an unlined copper bowl, you can use it directly over a low flame. Copper is very responsive to temperature changes so the risk of curdling is decreased. Whisk constantly until the mixture triples in volume and begins to thicken, 3 to 5 minutes. To prevent scrambling, be careful not to overcook the yolks. An instant-read thermometer will register 165° to 170°F/75°C.
Using the silicone spatula, immediately scrape the mixture into the medium bowl. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, or until completely cool.
Mix the Espresso and Sugar
In another medium bowl, stir together the espresso and ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons of the sugar until dissolved. Stir in 1 teaspoon of the vanilla and the remaining 1 tablespoon of marsala. Pour half the syrup into a shallow pan and reserve the remainder for a second layer of ladyfingers.
Mix the Mascarpone and Egg Yolk Mixture
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk beater, beat the mascarpone on low speed for about 10 seconds, or until creamy. Raise the speed slightly and gradually beat in the cooled egg yolk mixture until completely incorporated, scraping the sides of the bowl once or twice with a silicone spatula.
Whip the Cream
In the chilled mixing bowl, combine the heavy cream and the remaining 2 tablespoons of sugar. Whip the cream, starting on low speed, gradually raising the speed to medium-high, until the cream begins to thicken. Add the remaining 1 teaspoon of vanilla and whip just until stiff peaks form when the beater is raised. With a large silicone spatula, fold the whipped cream into the mascarpone mixture.
Compose the Tiramisù
Dip each ladyfinger very quickly in the espresso syrup in the shallow pan, dipping first one side, then the other, taking no longer than about 1 second per side. The goal is to moisten most of the biscuit but maintain a firm texture and a narrow inner core that is without syrup. After each finger is dipped, set it in the pan, forming 3 rows of 6 fingers for the first layer. If necessary, press the fingers slightly to fit them into the pan. You should have less than ½ cup espresso syrup remaining. If you have more, brush the syrup evenly onto the fingers until you have a little less than ½ cup. Add the reserved syrup for the second layer to the remaining syrup in the shallow pan.
Spread half (3 cups) the mascarpone mixture evenly over the fingers. Dip the remaining fingers into the syrup and arrange a second layer on top of the mascarpone mixture. (You should have ½ to ¾ cup of leftover espresso syrup that can be discarded. If you have more, again brush the fingers evenly until no more than ¾ cup remains.) Pour the remaining mascarpone mixture over the top and use a small offset or silicone spatula to spread it evenly.
In a fine-mesh strainer held over the tiramisù, sprinkle the cocoa lightly over the surface, using a small spoon to stir the cocoa in the strainer. (I prefer a light sprinkle, but more cocoa can be added if a thicker coat is desired.) Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 6 hours or up to 3 days before serving. The tiramisù can also be frozen for up to 3 months.
To serve, use a large serving spoon or pancake turner to scoop out portions. For 12 servings, use a knife to score it in thirds the long way and quarters the short way.
Dark chocolate, 60 percent to 62 percent cacao, is a lovely and sweeter alternative to the cocoa dusting, but it must be grated so finely it melts on the tongue to maintain the harmonious creaminess of the dessert. The chocolate needs to be as hard as possible to grate finely; it must not be warm. You will need 1/3 cup/1 ounce/28 grams grated chocolate. If you have a large block of chocolate, use a melon baller to scrape the chocolate, making short, light strokes that do not cut too deeply into the chocolate. Alternatively, use the coarse holes on a cheese grater to grate the edge of a chocolate bar. Hold the chocolate with a paper towel so that your fingers won't melt the chocolate. Allow the flakes to fall onto a small cool baking sheet. Place the sheet inside a large plastic bag and shake the flakes into the bag. Avoid touching them because they melt very easily. Use a large spoon to lift the chocolate flakes and sprinkle them over the surface of the tiramisù.
Note
This recipe requires 8 shots of espresso. Alternatively, you can use ¼ cup/0.5 ounce/15 grams Medaglia D'Oro instant espresso powder. Dissolve it with the sugar in 1 cup boiling water. Remove it from the heat and add 1 cup cold water, the vanilla, and the remaining 1 tablespoon of marsala.
Highlights for Success
This filling is actually very similar to Bavarian cream (see
Apple Caramel Charlotte
). The essential difference is that about two-thirds the volume of thick slightly tangy mascarpone, which is a triple cream cheese, replaces the usual milk. No gelatin is required to thicken it.
I like to flavor each component so that it would be delicious on its own and also blend perfectly with the others. For example, I sweeten the espresso syrup to the point that the coffee is just bitter enough to temper the sweetness of the savoiardi. The dusting of cocoa, however, is so fine that it merges beautifully with the biscuits.
8 to 10
30 to 40 minutes
Sybil Zashin, Elliott's and my honorary cousin, offered this terrific traditional Passover dessert, a delicious combination of pecans and coffee. The cake is spongy and exceptionally moist and dense, with an unusually high proportion of pecans. Light toasting really brings out their unique flavor. Nielsen-Massey (see
Ingredients Sources
) makes a pure coffee extract that is the essence of coffee flavor.
Volume | Ounce | Gram | |
superfine sugar | ¾ cup, divided | 5.3 | 150 |
pecan halves | 2¼ cups | 8 | 225 |
coffee extract (or instant espresso powder, preferably Medaglia D'Oro) | 2 tablespoons (or 1 tablespoon) | . | . |
7 large eggs, separated, at room temperature: | ½ cup (4 fluid ounces) | 4.6 | 130 |
cream of tartar if not for Passover (optional) | ¾ plus 1/8 | . | . |
Special Equipment
One 9 by 2½- to 3-inch springform pan, bottom coated with shortening, topped with a parchment round. Do not grease the sides.
Preheat the Oven
Twenty minutes or more before baking, set an oven rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F/175°C.
Divide the Sugar
In a small bowl, place ¼ cup of the sugar for the nuts. In another small bowl, place 2 tablespoons of the sugar for the meringue. In the bowl of a stand mixer, place the remaining ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar.
Toast and Grind the Pecans
Spread the pecans evenly on a baking sheet and bake for about 7 minutes to enhance their flavor. Stir once or twice to ensure even toasting and avoid overbrowning. Cool completely. In a food processor, pulse the pecans with ¼ cup sugar and espresso powder, if using, in long bursts until very fine. Stop before the pecans start becoming oily or pasty. Empty them into a medium bowl.
Mix the Yolk Mixture
In the bowl of the stand mixer fitted with the whisk beater, add the yolks to the sugar and beat on high speed for 5 minutes, or until very thick and fluffy and when the beater is raised the mixture falls in ribbons.
Detach the whisk from the mixer and use it to fold the pecan mixture and the coffee extract, if using, into the batter until evenly mixed. If you don't have a second mixer bowl, scrape this mixture into a large bowl and thoroughly wash, rinse, and dry the mixer bowl and whisk beater to remove any trace of oil.
Beat the Egg Whites into a Stiff Meringue
In the bowl of the stand mixer fitted with the whisk beater, beat the egg whites on medium speed until foamy. With the mixer off, add the cream of tartar, if using. Raise the speed to medium-high and beat until soft peaks form when the beater is raised. Gradually beat in the remaining 2 tablespoons of sugar and beat until stiff peaks form when the whisk is raised slowly. If not using cream of tartar, stop beating just before stiff peaks to prevent overbeating. The peaks should curve over slightly when the beater is raised.
Make the Batter
Add about one-quarter of the meringue to the yolk mixture and, with a large balloon whisk or the whisk beater, fold until completely incorporated. Gently fold in the remaining meringue in three parts. For the last addition, be sure there are no white streaks of meringue in the batter. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and, using a small offset spatula or silicone spatula, spread the surface evenly. The batter will fill the pan half full.
Bake the Cake
Bake for 30 to 40 minutes, or until the cake is springy to the touch when pressed very lightly in the center. An instant-read thermometer will register 185°F/85°C. In a 2½-inch-high pan, the batter will have risen to the top of the pan.
Cool and Unmold the Cake
Immediately invert the cake onto a wire rack that has been coated lightly with nonstick cooking spray. Leave it undisturbed until the pan feels completely cool to the touch. Reinvert the pan. Run a small metal spatula between the sides of the pan and the cake, pressing firmly against the pan, and remove the sides of the pan. Invert the cake onto a flat plate and remove the pan bottom and parchment. Reinvert it onto a serving plate. There will be a 3/8-inch depression to fill with coffee cream.
2 cups/9 ounces/256 grams
Volume | Ounce | Gram | |
heavy cream, cold | 1 cup (8 fluid ounces) | 8.2 | 232 |
superfine sugar | 2 tablespoons | 1 | 25 |
coffee extract (or Medaglia D'Oro instant espresso powder) | 1 teaspoon (or ½ teaspoon) | . | . |
water | 4 teaspoons | . | . |
powdered gelatin (see | ¼ teaspoon | . | . |
pure vanilla extract | ½ teaspoon | . | . |
Make the Coffee Cream
In a mixing bowl, combine the cream, sugar, and espresso powder, if using, and refrigerate for at least 15 minutes. (Chill the mixer's beaters alongside the bowl.)
In a 1-cup heatproof glass measure, place the water and gelatin. Allow the mixture to soften for 5 minutes. Set the measure in a pan of simmering water and stir occasionally until the gelatin is dissolved. (This can be done in a microwave on high power, stirring once or twice.)
Remove the cup from the water and cool the mixture to room temperature, about 7 minutes. (It can be held longer but should be covered to prevent evaporation.) The gelatin must be liquid but not warm when added to the cream.
Whip the cream mixture, starting on low speed, gradually raising the speed to medium-high as it thickens, just until traces of the beater marks begin to show distinctly. Add the gelatin mixture in a steady stream, whipping constantly. Add the vanilla and coffee extract, if not using the espresso powder, and whip just until stiff peaks form when the beater is raised. To avoid the risk of overwhipping, when almost stiff enough, remove the beaters and use them, or a whisk, to finish whipping by hand.
Immediately swirl the cream into the depression on top of the cake or scrape it into a bowl to pass on the side. The cake can be presented upside down or top side up. It's lovely no matter how you slice it. The completed cake can be refrigerated overnight and will keep at room temperature for several hours.