Read Rose's Heavenly Cakes Online
Authors: Rose Levy Beranbaum
Line the Pan
For lining the sides of the pan, cut off a small amount from one rounded bottom edge of 23 ladyfingers to create a flat bottom. For the inside bottom of the pan, cut both rounded edges of the ladyfingers. Arrange the ladyfingers in a ring in the pan so that the cut bottom edges are down and the attractive crust sides are against the pan.
Line the bottom of the pan with the remaining ladyfingers, placing them crust side down and cutting or tearing smaller pieces to fit into any gaps. Cover the pan with plastic wrap and place it in the freezer.
Mix the Lemon, Eggs, and Sugar
Have ready a fine-mesh strainer suspended over a large bowl containing the lemon zest.
In the top of a double boiler over simmering water, whisk together the 5 yolks, 2 of the egg whites (¼ cup/2 fluid ounces/2 ounces/60 grams; refrigerate or freeze the remaining whites for the meringue), the sugar, and lemon juice. (Don't let the bottom of the container touch the water.) Cook, stirring with a whisk, for about 15 minutes, or until the mixture thickens enough to pool slightly on its surface before disappearing into the mixture. An instant-read thermometer will register 180°F/82°C.
Immediately scrape the mixture into the strainer. Press all of it through with the back of a spoon or a silicone spatula. Stir to incorporate the lemon zest evenly. Allow the mixture to cool completely to the touch, about 1 hour at room temperature, or set in an ice water bath (see
Water Baths
), stirring often, for about 15 minutes.
Whip the Cream
In the bowl of a stand mixer, pour the cream and refrigerate for at least 15 minutes. (Chill the whisk beater alongside the bowl.)
Whip the cream, starting on low speed, gradually raising the speed to medium-high, just until thickened and it mounds softly when dropped from a spoon. It will continue to thicken while mixing it with the lemon filling. Using a balloon whisk, slotted skimmer, or large spatula, stir about 1 cup of the whipped cream into the lemon filling. Scrape in the remaining whipped cream and gently but thoroughly fold it into the mixture until uniform in color.
Freeze the Torte
Scrape the mixture into the prepared pan but allow the ladyfingers to extend about ½ inch above the filling. Smooth the surface evenly with a small metal spatula. If you have any filling left over, it can be frozen separately. Cover the torte tightly with plastic wrap and freeze it for a minimum of 5 hours or up to 5 days.
Preheat the Oven
Position an oven rack so that the top of the springform pan will be about 3 inches below the broiler. If using an electric broiler, preheat it for a minimum of 10 minutes.
Beat the Egg Whites into a Meringue
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk beater, beat the remaining 3 egg whites (6 tablespoons/3 fluid ounces/3.2 ounces/90 grams) on medium speed until foamy. With the mixer off, add the cream of tartar. Raise the speed to medium-high and beat until soft peaks form when the beater is raised. Sprinkle the powdered sugar evenly over the surface and continue beating until stiff peaks form when the beater is raised slowly. Using a silicone spatula, scrape the meringue on top of the lemon filling. Using a small metal spatula, spread it evenly right up to the surrounding ladyfingers to keep it from shrinking. Then make swirls and peaks in the meringue.
Place the torte on a baking sheet, set it under the broiler, and, watching it carefully, allow the meringue to turn golden brown. It will take under 1 minute. Remove the torte from the broiler and wrap the pan with the aluminum foil band to protect the meringue. Hold the band in place with a piece of masking tape and then tie a piece of string around the band. Immediately return the torte to the freezer for a minimum of 1 hour or for up to 3 weeks. If freezing longer than 1 hour, cover the top with plastic wrap. It will then need to soften (at room temperature) for 1 to 1½ hours, depending on freezer temperature and room temperature. The ideal temperature to serve the torte is when an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center registers 28° to 32°F/-2° to 0°C. The filling is most delicious when very cold but creamy. You can also slice the unsoftened frozen torte with a hot wet knife and allow the slices to sit for about 30 minutes before serving.
Unmold the Torte
If using a loose-bottom pan, set it on top of a canister smaller than the diameter of the sides so that when pushing down gently on the top of the pan, it can slide away from the torte. If using a springform pan, use a small propane torch to heat the outside of the pan or wipe the sides of the pan with a dish towel run under hot water and wrung out.
Use a thin sharp blade to cut the torte. (There is no need to wet it between slices if the torte has been allowed to soften.) Fresh raspberries or strawberries, and blueberries make a sweet and colorful accompaniment, if desired.
Note
The ladyfingers used for this recipe should be the soft variety found in supermarkets. You could use the Italian savoiardi biscuits, but they will remain crunchy. If making your own
Ladyfingers
, you will need about nineteen for the sides. Use the round cake or extra ladyfingers as the base.
There is, perhaps, no cake more ethereal, exquisitely plain, or purely delightful as a homemade ladyfinger. I have used ladyfingers as components for several of the recipes here, but they also shine on their own. When I was a child, my grandmother sometimes served them to me with a glass of milk as a special afternoon treat.
Because the delicate piped batter is baked freeform, it must be firm enough to maintain an attractive shape. In order to achieve the ideal consistency, the egg whites must be beaten until very stiff. In past years, overbeating and drying out the whites were a great risk to the smoothness of the batter, but when I discovered that using the ideal amount of cream of tartar enabled me to beat the whites as stiff as possible without their breaking down, making ladyfingers became far less intimidating. Recently, I also discovered that using Wondra flour makes the batter stiffer and easier for it to hold its shape; at the same time, it makes the baked ladyfingers more tender than ever. I encourage you to try it!
Volume | Ounce | Gram | |
about 6 large eggs, separated, at room temperature: | ¼ cup plus 3 tablespoons (3.5 fluid ounces) | 4 | 112 |
superfine sugar | ¾ cup, divided | 5.3 | 150 |
warm water | 1 tablespoon (0.5 fluid ounce) | . | . |
pure vanilla extract | 2 teaspoons | . | . |
Wondra flour (see | 1 cup (spooned into the cup and leveled off) plus 1 tablespoon | 5.3 | 150 |
cream of tartar | ¾ teaspoon | . | . |
powdered sugar | 1 cup (lightly spooned into the cup and leveled off) | 4 | 115 |
Special Equipment
Two large baking sheets or inverted 17½ by 12¼ by 1-inch half-sheet pans, lined with a nonstick liner, parchment, or aluminum foil and outlined with piping guides (parallel lines drawn 3 inches apart and an 8- to 9-inch circle) | Large pastry bag fitted with a ¾-inch pastry tube
Preheat the Oven
Twenty minutes or more before baking, set two oven racks in the upper and lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F/200°C.
Make the Batter
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk beater, beat the yolks and ½ cup of the sugar on high speed for 5 minutes, or until very thick and fluffy and when the beater is raised, the mixture falls in ribbons. Lower the speed and beat in the water and vanilla. Raise the speed to high and beat for 30 seconds, or until the mixture thickens again. If you have only one mixer bowl, scrape the mixture into another large bowl. Sift the flour over the yolk mixture without mixing it in and set it aside. Thoroughly wash and dry the bowl and beater.
Beat the Egg Whites into a Stiff Meringue
In the bowl of the stand mixer fitted with the whisk beater, beat the egg whites on medium-low speed until foamy. With the mixer off, add the cream of tartar. Raise the speed to medium-high and beat until soft peaks form when the beater is raised. Gradually beat in the remaining ¼ cup of the sugar, beating until very stiff peaks form when the beater is raised slowly.
Add one-third of the meringue to the yolk mixture and, with a large balloon whisk, slotted skimmer, or silicone spatula, fold until all the flour is incorporated. Gently fold in the remaining meringue.
Pipe the Batter
Working quickly so that the batter does not lose volume, scoop 4 cups into the pastry bag and pipe an 8-inch disk for the base. Hold the pastry bag in a vertical (straight up and down) position with the tube at least 1½ inches above the prepared pan. To achieve full height and a rounded shape, allow the batter to fall from the tube without pressing against the pan. Start in the center and use your arm to move the tube in smooth circles. To prevent gaps, allow the spirals of batter to fall against the sides of—almost on top of—the previous spirals. The weight of the batter will cause them to fall exactly in place.
Scoop the remaining batter into the pastry bag and pipe 3 by 1¼- to 1½-inch side-by-side "fingers." Be sure to hold the pastry tube high enough above the surface of the pan so that the batter can fall freely from the tube and not get flattened by the edge of the tube.
Start piping just inside the top guideline and stop shortly before reaching the bottom one, moving the tip slightly forward and up to control the batter flow. If using Wondra flour, the "fingers" should almost be touching. If using cake or all-purpose flour, there should be a ¼-inch space between the "fingers" because they spread sideways as they are piped. (After baking, the ladyfingers will be attached to one another in continuous strips. Each finger will be 1¼ to 1½ inches wide.) Sift the powdered sugar evenly over the fingers. After a few seconds, the batter will absorb some of the sugar. For a pearled effect, sprinkle with a second coat. While baking the batter on the first pan, pipe the remaining batter onto the second pan.
Bake the Disk and Ladyfingers
Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, or until light golden brown and springy to the touch. Remove the sheets to wire racks and cool slightly. Bake the second batch. To prevent cracking, use a long narrow spatula or pancake turner to remove the ladyfingers from the sheets while still warm. Invert the disk onto a wire rack covered with a paper towel, peel off the liner, and reinvert onto a second wire rack. Cool completely. Ladyfingers will keep wrapped airtight for 1 day at room temperature or for 1 month frozen.
Note
In place of Wondra flour, you can use an equal weight of cake flour (1½ cups) or bleached all-purpose flour (1 1/3 cups), sifted into the cup and leveled off.
Highlights for Success
The batter flows very easily so do not squeeze the pastry bag.
To stop the flow of batter, tilt the tube up just before you think it will be necessary.
Work steadily so that the batter can be baked soon after mixing to enable it to retain the maximum air and lightness of texture.
Years ago, my neighbor and friend Heidi Trachtenberg, who once lived in Italy, asked me if I had ever heard of tiramisù. She laughed when I told her that it sounded like an exotic and lofty mountain peak. It is, in fact, an Italian dessert so "elevating" that its title means "pick me up." This classic dessert—consisting of savoiardi biscuits dipped in espresso and topped with a dreamy custard of egg yolks, mascarpone cheese, and marsala, then sprinkled with cocoa—will never go out of style. The secret to its incomparable texture is heating the custard, making it firm enough to cut into attractive portions and allowing it to freeze impeccably. You can also omit the ladyfingers and serve the custard spooned over fresh figs.
Plan Ahead
Compose the tiramisù at least 6 hours or up to 3 days ahead.
Volume | Ounce | Gram | |
about 8 large egg yolks, at room temperature | ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon (4.5 fluid ounces) | 5.3 | 150 |
superfine sugar | ¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons, divided | 6.2 | 175 |
sweet marsala | ¼ cup (2 fluid ounces), divided | 2 | 58 |
freshly brewed hot espresso (see | 2 cups (16 fluid ounces) | 16.6 | 472 |
pure vanilla extract | 2 teaspoons, divided | . | . |
mascarpone, preferably imported (65° to 75°F/19° to 23°C) | 2 cups | 17.6 | 500 |
heavy cream, cold | 1 cup (8 fluid ounces) | 8.2 | 232 |
savoiardi biscuits or ladyfingers | 36 | 10.5 | 300 |
unsweetened (alkalized) cocoa powder | 1 tablespoon | . | . |