Read Rose's Heavenly Cakes Online
Authors: Rose Levy Beranbaum
Rose's Heavenly Cakes (45 page)
Highlights for Success
Solid white shortening such as Spectrum (available in health food stores) works better than butter because butter causes streaking and because this shortening doesn't offer any perceivable flavor. Crisco without trans fat does not work for this fondant because the fondant will lack elasticity.
The fondant should be made ahead, but it is best applied within about 6 hours of serving, and if the fondant-covered cake is left uncovered at room temperature. Alternatively, cover the cake lightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate it. Allow it to come to room temperature a minimum of 2 hours before serving. If the fondant becomes slightly sticky, let it sit uncovered.
If you prefer, you can also purchase an excellent chocolate fondant called Pettinice Chocolate Rolled Fondant, imported from Bakel's in New Zealand (see Pastry Chef Central in
Equipment Sources
).
If stored fondant seems very stiff, a few seconds in the microwave before kneading it will make it pliable.
Shape the Fondant
Roll out the fondant between two sheets of plastic wrap coated with nonstick cooking spray into a large rectangle about 15 by 9 by 1/8 inches. Remove the top piece of plastic wrap and slide the fondant, still on the bottom piece of plastic wrap, next to the cake. Lift the plastic wrap by the two edges farthest from the cake and quickly but carefully flip the fondant over on top of the cake. Adjust the fondant, if necessary, to ensure good coverage of the cake and trim it close to the edges of the roll. Tuck the fondant under the cake, maintaining the rounded sides.
Final Presentation
Use small sharp scissors or a single-edged razor blade to cut staggered rows of
V
s resembling a pinecone. It's easiest to keep them straight and staggered correctly by cutting them row by row, starting at the base, rather than by cutting up and down the pinecone. Begin by cutting
V
s approximately ¾ inch on each side. As you work down toward the narrower end, the
V
s will become smaller. Use the end of a small metal spoon handle to lift up the scalloped petals.
Décor
Dip long white pine needles into lightly beaten egg white and dust with powdered sugar. Allow them to dry for several hours. Marzipan candles (see
Marzipan Candles
) make a beautiful addition. You can also make little red holly berries from red-tinted marzipan.
Chapter 3: Mostly Flourless Cakes and Cheesecakes
The cakes in this chapter are either flourless or mostly flourless, which means that the component with the flour, such as the ladyfingers in the
Tiramisù
, can be omitted and the custard filling spooned over fresh figs. This makes them ideal for those who are gluten intolerant or for religious observance. I didn't create these cakes to be flourless; it is the nature of the cakes themselves, but they are among my favorites. They include mousse cakes, meringue cakes, ground nut cakes, and custard cakes, such as tiramisù and cheesecakes.
Most flourless cakes depend on stiffly beaten egg whites for structure rather than on the starch usually provided by the flour. It is essential, therefore, that the egg whites be beaten correctly.
Highlights for Successful Flourless Cakes
The mixer bowl and beater must be
free of grease
, including even the tiniest trace of egg yolk, or the egg whites will not beat adequately.
Use the recommended amount
of cream of tartar (1/8 teaspoon per egg white) and beat until stiff peaks form when the beater is raised. (There is no risk of breaking down the egg whites or drying them if this amount of cream of tartar is used.) For Passover, you will need to omit the cream of tartar, so care must be taken not to overbeat.
Once the egg whites are beaten,
immediately fold them
gently but thoroughly into the rest of the mixture.
Bake immediately
after mixing.
Highlights for Successful Cheesecakes
When using a cookie crust
, a little of the butter often leaks out the bottom. Don't decrease the butter, however, because less butter makes it hard to press the cookie crust up the sides of the pan.
Don't be tempted
to use the more expensive "natural" specialty cream cheese. Philadelphia brand, available all over the world, or other regional commercial brands, offer the best and most consistent flavor and texture for these cakes. Cream cheese without gums will aerate more, yielding more volume and less creaminess.
If you prefer
a less creamy, more firm cheesecake, instead of allowing the cheesecake to cool in the turned-off oven, bake it for a total of 1 hour plus 10 minutes, or until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center registers 147° to 160°F/64° to 70°C and the center bounces back when pressed lightly (the higher temperature will be more firm). With this method, the edges of the cake will have little cracks and be browned. Also, the sides will rise a little but will sink level with the center on cooling.
Keep in mind
that to firm, cheesecakes need many hours in the refrigerator before unmolding. But if, before chilling, the center jiggles more than slightly when moved, the cheesecake won't be firm enough even after chilling, so it needs further baking. Bake cheesecakes the day before serving for the best results.
10 to 12
45 minutes plus 1 hour with oven off
This creamy, lemony cheesecake is perfectly delicious on its own with no crust or cake, but the crown of ladyfingers provides a beautiful presentation. It also invites decorative and delicious seasonal fruit toppings. For spring or summer, for example, raspberries are a splendid alternative to more wintery cranberries.
The cake base absorbs any liquid from the filling, making the cake more moist and tender. If you use the savoiardi biscuits, the tips will remain crisp. My personal first choice, however, is homemade
Ladyfingers
.
Plan Ahead
Make the cheesecake at least 1 day ahead.
Volume | Ounce | Gram | |
savoiardi biscuits or soft ladyfingers | 17 to 19 | 5.3 | 150 |
one 8½-inch biscuit (see | . | . | . |
cream cheese (65° to 70°F/19° to 21°C) | . | 1 pound | 454 |
sugar | 1 cup | 7 | 200 |
3 large eggs, at room temperature | ½ cup plus 1½ tablespoons (4.7 fluid ounces ) | 5.3 | 150 |
lemon juice, freshly squeezed | 3 tablespoons (1.5 fluid ounces) | 1.7 | 47 |
pure vanilla extract | 1½ teaspoons | . | . |
salt | ¼ teaspoon | . | . |
sour cream | 3 cups | 25.6 | 726 |
Special Equipment
One 9 by 2½- to 3-inch springform pan, coated with nonstick cooking spray, set in a slightly larger silicone pan or wrapped with a double layer of heavy-duty aluminum foil to prevent seepage | One 12 by 2-inch round cake pan or roasting pan to serve as a water bath
Preheat the Oven
Twenty minutes or more before baking, set an oven rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F/175°C.
Line the Pan
Cut off a small piece from the rounded bottom edge of the savoiardi or ladyfingers to create a flat bottom. If using savoiardi, they should be 2¾ inches long as they are thicker and displace more of the filling. If using soft ladyfingers, then they should be 2½ inches long. Arrange them in the pan trimmed end down, attractive sides facing the pan, pressing them gently against the sides of the pan.
Trim and fit a ¼-inch-thick biscuit or angel food cake round into the bottom center of the pan. (You can use the savoiardi or ladyfingers if you cut them in half horizontally.) If necessary, fill in any missing spaces with cake.
Make the Cheesecake Filling
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk beater, beat the cream cheese and sugar on medium-high speed until very smooth, about 3 minutes. Beat in the eggs, beating until smooth and scraping down the sides of the bowl once or twice. Beat in the lemon juice, then the vanilla and salt, until incorporated. Beat in the sour cream just until blended. Using a silicone spatula, scrape the filling into the prepared pan. Set the pan in the larger pan and surround it with 1 inch of very hot water.
Bake the Cake
Bake for 45 minutes, turning the pan halfway around in the oven and covering the cake loosely with aluminum foil after 35 minutes to keep the tips of the savoiardi or ladyfingers from overbrowning. Turn off the oven without opening the door and let the cake cool for 1 hour.
Chill and Unmold the Cake
Remove the pan from the water bath to a wire rack and cool to room temperature, about 1 hour. Cover with a large bowl or plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. To unmold, use a small propane torch to heat the outside of the pan or wipe the sides of the pan with a dish towel run under hot water and wrung out.
Note
If not using the cake base, you can replace the 3 eggs with 6 yolks. This will prevent any watering out of the filling, but it also makes it slightly more firm and less creamy.
Volume | Ounce | Gram | |
water | ¼ cup (2 fluid ounces) | 2 | 59 |
sugar | ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons | 2.6 | 75 |
cornstarch | 2½ teaspoons | . | . |
fresh or frozen cranberries, thawed | 1 cup | 3.5 | 100 |
Make the Cranberry Crown Topping
In a small saucepan, combine the water, sugar, cornstarch, and cranberries and bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring constantly. Stop stirring, reduce the heat, and simmer for 1 minute, swirling the pan occasionally. The mixture will be thickened but pourable. Allow it to cool to room temperature.
Final Presentation
Up to 6 hours before serving, spoon the cranberry topping evenly on top of the chilled cheesecake. To serve, cut the cheesecake with a knife that has been dipped in hot water and wiped for each slice.
Up to 6 hours before serving, fill the center of the cheesecake with about 2 pints/1 pound/454 grams raspberries (or hulled small strawberries), pointed ends up. In a microwave (or in a small heavy saucepan over low heat), melt about ¼ cup/2.7 ounces/77 grams currant jelly. Use a small brush to paint it on the berries.
10 to 12
45 minutes plus 1 hour with oven off
I am forever grateful that the editors of
Fine Cooking
magazine encouraged me to create this glorious pumpkin cheesecake. I had feared that the spices usually associated with pumpkin-flavored desserts would fight with the cream cheese, but then I discovered that using turbinado sugar, with its mild overtones of molasses, and leaving out the spices made it possible to enjoy the true pumpkin flavor. Pecans are a time-honored complement to pumpkin, and the addition of a caramel topping ties all the flavors together so perfectly that this has become one of my very favorite desserts.
Plan Ahead
Make at least 1 day ahead.
