Rose's Heavenly Cakes (21 page)
Read Rose's Heavenly Cakes Online
Authors: Rose Levy Beranbaum
35 to 45 minutes
When I went to Lyon to translate and revise the renowned chocolatier Bernachon's book
La Passion de Chocolat,
my favorite treat in the entire shop were the
palets d'or.
They consisted of ganache centers made slightly tangy with crème fraîche instead of the usual heavy cream, and mellowed with a little butter. Each little
palet,
or "coin," was enrobed in a hair-thin shell of dark chocolate that was coated with flecks of real gold leaf. I could never pass the cart where they were stacked on sheet pans without popping one in my mouth. Reborn as a cake, this is my chocolate-rich, melt-in-your-mouth butter cake with Bernachon's crème fraîche ganache center and a brilliant lacquer glaze, lovely flecks of gold, and fresh red currants, if desired.
Plan Ahead
Make the ganache several hours before using. Apply the glaze, if using, at least 4 hours ahead.
Volume | Ounce | Gram | |
unsweetened (alkalized) cocoa powder | ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon (sifted before measuring) | 1.5 | 42 |
sour cream | 2/3 cup | 5.6 | 160 |
2 large eggs, at room temperature | ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons (3 fluid ounces) | 3.5 | 100 |
pure vanilla extract | 1½ teaspoons | . | . |
cake flour (or bleached all-purpose flour) | 1½ cups plus 1 tablespoon (or 1 1/3 cups), sifted into the cup and leveled off | 5.5 | 156 |
superfine sugar | 1 cup | 7 | 200 |
baking powder | ¾ teaspoon | . | . |
baking soda | ¼ teaspoon | . | . |
salt | ½ teaspoon | . | . |
unsalted butter (65° to 75°F/19° to 23°C) | 14 tablespoons (1¾ sticks) | 7 | 200 |
Special Equipment
One 9 by 2-inch round cake pan, encircled with a cake strip, bottom coated with shortening, topped with a parchment round, then coated with baking spray with flour
Preheat the Oven
Twenty minutes or more before baking, set an oven rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F/175°C.
Mix the Liquid Ingredients
In a medium bowl, whisk the cocoa, sour cream, eggs, and vanilla just until the consistency of slightly lumpy muffin batter.
Make the Batter
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the flat beater, mix the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt on low speed for 30 seconds. Add the butter and half the cocoa mixture. Mix on low speed until the dry ingredients are moistened. Raise the speed to medium and beat for 1½ minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl.
With the mixer off between additions, add the remaining cocoa mixture in two parts, starting on medium-low speed and gradually raising the speed to medium. Beat on medium speed for 30 seconds after each addition to incorporate the ingredients and strengthen the structure. Scrape down the sides of the bowl. Using a silicone spatula, scrape the batter into the prepared pan, being sure to press the thick and fluffy batter against the sides of the pan, and smooth the surface evenly with a small offset spatula.
Bake the Cake
Bake for 35 to 45 minutes, or until a wire cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean and the cake springs back when pressed lightly in the center. The cake should start to shrink from the sides of the pan only after removal from the oven.
Cool and Unmold the Cake
Let the cake cool in the pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Run a small metal spatula between the sides of the pan and the cake, pressing firmly against the pan, and invert the cake onto a wire rack that has been coated lightly with nonstick cooking spray. To prevent splitting, reinvert the cake so that the top side is up. Cool completely. The cake will be slightly smaller at the top (more so if you haven't pressed the batter up against the sides of the pan).
1 1/3 cups/11.6 ounces/330 grams
Volume | Ounce | Gram | |
dark chocolate, 60% to 62% cacao, chopped | . | 6 | 170 |
crème fraîche (see | 2/3 cup (5.3 fluid ounces) | 5.5 | 155 |
heavy cream | 4 teaspoons | 0.7 | 20 |
unsalted butter, preferably high fat (65° to 75°F/19° to 23°C) | 2 tablespoons | 1 | 28 |
pure vanilla extract | 1 teaspoon | . | . |
crème de cassis (optional); see | 1 tablespoon | . | . |
Make the Crème Fraîche Ganache
In a food processor, process the chocolate until very fine.
In a 2-cup microwavable cup with a spout (or in a medium saucepan over medium heat, stirring often), whisk together the crème fraîche and heavy cream and scald it (heat it to the boiling point; small bubbles will form around the periphery).
With the motor of the food processor running, pour the cream mixture through the feed tube in a steady stream. Process for a few seconds until smooth. Pulse in the butter and vanilla. Scrape the ganache into a glass bowl and allow it to sit for 1 hour. Cover with plastic wrap and allow it to cool for several hours, or until the mixture is firm enough to use as frosting. It should be the creamy consistency of softened butter. The ganache keeps for 3 days at room temperature, for 3 weeks refrigerated, and for 6 months frozen.
Note
You can replace the crème fraîche, heavy cream, and butter with ¾ cup plus 1 tablespoon/7 ounces/200 grams sour cream. Because sour cream curdles when heated, however, it needs to be at room temperature. Melt the chocolate in a microwave, stirring every 15 seconds, or in the top of a double boiler over hot, not simmering, water, stirring often. Remove it from the heat and whisk the sour cream into the melted chocolate. If desired, you can also whisk crème de cassis into the ganache, which adds extra tartness and complements the fresh currants, if using.
Compose the Cake
Spread a little ganache on a 9-inch cardboard round, or serving plate if not glazing the cake, and invert the cake layer on it top side down.
If you are planning to apply the lacquer glaze, the ganache undercoat needs to be as smooth and even as possible because the glaze will reveal every imperfection beneath it. If the crumb on the sides of the cake is not sealed, when you are applying the ganache, first do a crumb coating or layer on the sides that doesn't go quite to the edge of the cardboard round. Then apply a thin coat to the top, starting at the edges and working toward the center. Use the ganache when it's had time to set up to a thickened but spreadable consistency or reheat it very briefly (a few-seconds burst in the microwave) so that it goes on easily without compressing the top of the cake. Refrigerate the cake for about an hour and then apply the final coat.
Start by frosting the sides, filling in the space between the sides of the cake and the edge of the cardboard round. Use the remainder of the ganache to frost the top.
Use a heated straightedged knife to create a flat top and smooth sides, with a slight bevel for the edge. To heat the knife, run it under hot water and shake off the excess droplets.
If you are planning to apply the lacquer glaze, after frosting the cake with the ganache undercoat, refrigerate until very firm, a minimum of 2 hours or overnight. Be sure that the refrigerator is odor free because chocolate absorbs aromas very readily. If not applying the lacquer glaze, you can make an attractive design on the top of the cake using a metal spatula and making swirls or a concentric circle.
1 1/3 cups/10.6 fluid ounces/13.5 ounces/380 grams
Volume | Ounce | Gram | |
cold water | ¼ cup (2 fluid ounces) | 2 | 59 |
powdered gelatin | 2 teaspoons | . | . |
sugar | 2/3 cup | 4.7 | 133 |
water | 1/3 cup (2.7 fluid ounces) | 2.7 | 79 |
corn syrup | 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon | 1 | 28 |
unsweetened (alkalized) cocoa powder | ¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons (sifted before measuring) | 2.3 | 66 |
heavy cream | 1/3 cup (2.6 fluid ounces) | 2.7 | 77 |
Make the Lacquer Glaze
Have ready a fine-mesh strainer suspended over a medium metal bowl.
In a small bowl, pour in the ¼ cup cold water and sprinkle the gelatin over the top. Stir to moisten and soften the gelatin and allow it to sit for a minimum of 5 minutes. Cover tightly with plastic wrap to prevent evaporation and set aside.
In a small heavy saucepan, whisk together the sugar and 1/3 cup water over medium heat. Stir constantly to dissolve the sugar. Remove the pan from the heat and, with the whisk, gently stir in the corn syrup and then the cocoa until smooth, making sure to reach into the corners of the pan. The mixture will be glossy. Using a silicone spatula, stir in the heavy cream.
Return the pan to medium heat and, stirring constantly, bring the mixture to the boiling point (190°F/88°C). Bubbles will just start to form around the edges. Remove the pan from the heat and strain the mixture into the metal bowl. Cool slightly, for about 10 minutes. An instant-read thermometer should register 122° to 140°F/50° to 60°C. With the silicone spatula, stir in the softened gelatin until it is dissolved completely and no longer streaky.
Strain the glaze into a 2-cup glass measure or bowl. (Metal will impart an undesirable flavor if the glaze is stored in it.) Cool for a few minutes, stirring very gently so as not to incorporate any air. For this cake, the glaze coats best when just made (80°F/26°C). If the glaze is made ahead and reheated, it will be thicker and should be used at 82° to 85°F/27° to 29°C.
Once cool (after about 1 hour), the glaze can be covered and refrigerated for up to 1 week or in the freezer for several months. Reheat it in a double boiler over hot, not simmering, water, or very carefully in a microwave with 3-second bursts, stirring gently to ensure that it doesn't overheat or incorporate air.
There is enough glaze to cover the cake in "one shot" without having to touch up the sides. Should you happen to miss a spot, you can use a small metal spatula to add a small dab of glaze. This glaze is a lot more forgiving than the
Ganache Glaze
and will not show the "touch up." You will have about ¾ cup glaze left over. It can be frozen for many months, thawed, reheated, and poured perfectly.
Glaze the Cake
Lay a long double layer of wide heavy-duty aluminum foil on the work surface to catch the glaze. Turn up the edges about 1 inch all around to keep the glaze contained. Set a wire rack or a slightly smaller cake pan on top of the aluminum foil. Set the frosted cake on the wire rack. Make sure the cake is level and, if necessary, put a wedge or spatula underneath one of the legs to level it.
Pour the glaze in an even circular motion on top, allowing it to cascade over the sides to coat them completely. Start pouring in the middle and, as the glaze starts going down the sides, pour the glaze about 1 inch from the edge to help cover the sides evenly. Should they appear, any tiny bubbles can be pierced with a sharp needle. If any spots on the side don't get coated, it's easy to touch them up using the glaze on the aluminum foil and a small metal spatula. Allow the cake to sit for about 30 minutes until the glaze stops dripping, then move the cake to a serving plate.
Use the aluminum foil as a funnel to pour the excess glaze back into the glass measure or bowl. You may need to strain it through a fine-mesh strainer to remove any bits of cake or ganache that may have fallen through while glazing.