Pax Britannica (16 page)

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Authors: Jan Morris

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10

For it was not viciousness, nor even simply conceit, that fostered the general aloofness of the British. It was partly a sense of ordained separateness, partly the natural reserve of islanders, and partly no doubt the awkwardness people feel when they do not understand a foreign caper, or more especially do not speak a foreign language. Many a British official, his life spent in the imperial territories, learnt to love his charges with a passionate sincerity—even Tommy Atkins, Alfred Milner wrote from Cairo in 1893, regarded the Sudanese ‘with half-amused, half-admiring and inoffensively patronizing affection’. Sometimes the sympathy was so complete that the imperialist genuinely thought himself a son of the country, like those many colonial administrators who could never bear to leave, but settled upon their retirement in cottages called
Mon
Repos
or
Journey’s
End,
in fragrant alcoves of Darjeeling or beside the Pyramids road. ‘Ah India, my country, my country!’ Kipling had cried, in the middle of a travel essay, and there were many Britons to whom the whole vast panoply of Empire really was a community, multi-coloured, inconceivably dispersed, yet still a brotherhood of sorts, in which it was a man’s job to encourage the backward, comfort the neglected and honour the Queen. A faint irony sometimes salted these high-minded attitudes, as the Briton considered how extraordinarily obtuse some of his brothers were, but in such men it was not contemptuous, only wry. This is how a balladeer calling himself Brer Rabbit, writing in
The
Pioneer
of Allahabad that year, described a leave in Europe:

I
hied
me
north
to
Como
where
the
lake
is
azure
blue,

Where
you
loaf
about
on
steamers
quite
content
with
naught
to
do.

But
upon
the
mountainside
I
saw
a
Sadr
Kanungo

With
patwaris
and
the
Khasras
all
for
me
to

janch
karo’.

Then
I
took
a
train
for
Avignon,
but
gazing
from
the
car

I
perceived
upon
the
platform
my
old
friend
the
chaukidar.

The

brave
gendarme’
had
vanished,
the
‘gorait’
was
in
his
place,

With
his

waradat
ka
notbuk’
and
a
grin
upon
his
face.

Next
I
flew
across
to
Monaco
in
Maxim’s
new
machine

After
all
these
misadventures
for
a
gamble
I
felt
keen

But
a
sub-inspector
met
me
with
a
smile
upon
his
face

He’
d
‘chalane
d’
2,000
gamblers,
and
I’d
got
to
try
the
case!

I
said
‘Das
roz
tak
Hawalat’
and
off
to
Naples
fled

(
That
I
had
not
jurisdiction
never
came
into
my
head
)

But
in

Napoli’
that

s ‘bella’
but
can
beat
Cologne
for
smells

A
Vaccinator
asked
me
to
inspect
his
cleaned
out
wells.
1

In Ceylon they even had Natives playing cricket for the colony, and in 1894 Alan Raffel took 14 for 97 against the visiting M.C.C. Arrogance) indeed!

11

Steevens’s unspeakable conceit might speak for the New Imperialism, as it spoke for the
Daily
Mail
:
‘This sort of creature has to be ruled, for his good and our own.’ An older conception of Empire, and one likely to prove more resilient in the end, had been expressed seventy years before, by Stamford Raffles, the founder of Singapore, and still had its adherents throughout the Pax Britannica: ‘Let it still be the boast of Britain to write her name in characters of light; let her not be remembered as the tempest whose course was desolate, but as the gale of spring reviving the slumbering seeds of mind and calling them to life from the winter of ignorance and oppression. If the time shall come when her empire shall have passed away,
these monuments will endure when her triumphs shall have become an empty name.’
1

1
The first Afro-Asian peer was Sir Satyendra Sinha, who became Lord Sinha of Raipur in 1919.

2
Rosebery, though Gladstone’s Foreign Secretary, and Liberal Prime Minister himself in 1894–5, was the most eloquent of imperialists, and probably invented the phrase ‘Commonwealth of Nations’, in its British imperial sense. His views gradually estranged him from his party, and he died in 1929 a political independent, imperialist to the end and a famous stylist.

1
This splendid fellow (1697–1775), who probably began his military career in the ranks, was unknown until he arrived in India at the age of 50. He made his name in the wars against the French, and is honoured by a spirited effigy in Westminster Abbey—and by this picture, which still hangs in the Fort St George Museum in Madras.

1
Charles Brooke (1829–1917) was the second white rajah: his uncle James, an East India Company servant, had gone to Sarawak on an official mission in 1839, had put down a rebellion and been made ruler of Sarawak by its suzerain, the Sultan of Brunei. Charles, under whose rule Sarawak became a British protectorate, was succeeded by his son Charles Vyner Brooke, until in 1946 the country was annexed by the British Crown.

2
There were corners of the Empire where these happy-go-lucky philosophies were never adopted. One was the Caribbean island of Grand Cayman, which was settled by the black descendants of slaves and the white descendants of buccaneers and castaways. Even in such circumstances an all-white
élite
arose, and to this day the Bowdens, Ebanks, Edens and Merrens of Grand Cayman can claim absolute European descent.

1
Striking the servants, in an off-hand way, died hard in the Empire. In 1946, during my first week in Egypt, I boarded the Cairo train at Port Said with an English colonel of particular gentleness of manner and sweetness of disposition. As we walked along the corridor to find a seat we found our way blocked by an Egyptian, offering refreshments to people inside a compartment. Without a pause, apparently without a second thought, the colonel kicked him, quite hard and effectively, out of our way. I was new to the imperial scenes, and I have never forgotten this astonishing change in my companion’s character, nor the absolute blank indifference with which the Egyptian accepted the kick, and moved.

1
It was in 1857, the
Oxford
Dictionary
says, that the word was first applied to dark-skinned people other than Negroes, but perhaps the Mutiny was the reason. Certainly it was in 1858 that the Queen recorded in her journal her abhorrence of the usage.

1
It was only in the colonies of southern Africa that a substantial British working class settled among a coloured majority: as they were the most obviously vulnerable of the imperialists, so in the end they proved the most intractable.

1
Some survive, notably along Old Court House Street, where one or two jewellers and gunsmiths, with diamond rings in dusty showcases, and the gleam of gunracks among tiger-masks and horned heads, piquantly evoke imperial extravagances of long ago. Spence’s Hotel, too, a favourite of the Victorians, thrives in air-conditioned modernity: it is claimed to be the oldest hotel in Asia, founded in 1830, and its telegraphic address is ‘Homeliness’. All over India and Pakistan establishments still announce themselves in fading letters to be By Appointment to the Viceroy and Vicereine, and no imperial legacy lives on more strongly in the subcontinent than the tradition of the English boarding-house. Many of the smaller houses still bear the names of their old proprietors. Mrs Davis of Rawalpindi left her boarding-house to one of her male servants, but such was the commercial value of her name and sex that he adopted the professional pseudonym of
Miss
Davis, and prospered for many years.

1
Nor was Ripon’s attitude forgotten. When, in 1915, his statue was erected in Calcutta, it was financed entirely by Indian subscription—no European subscribed.

1
Above the harbour of Tauranga, in the North Island of New Zealand, are buried the British dead of the battle of Gate Pa, one of the early engagements of the Maori wars. Among them there lies a Maori chieftain, Rawiri Puhiraki, whose epitaph says of him that he gave drink to the enemy wounded, protected the unarmed and respected the dead. ‘The seeds of better feeling thus sown on the battlefields have since borne ample fruit.’

2
In 1898, when he had completed the conquest of the Sudan, Kitchener tried to provide it by raising funds for Gordon College, Khartoum. He soon got bored with the project, but Kipling celebrated it with an invocation to the Sudanese themselves:

Go

and
carry
your
shoes
in
your
hand,
and
bow
your
head
on
your
breast.

For
be
who
did
not
slay
you
in
sport,
be
will
not
teach
you
in
jest.

The college survived nevertheless, and renamed Khartoum University is today the chief centre of higher education in the Sudan. 

1
Grey (1812–98), who went on to be both Governor and Prime Minister of New Zealand, was not so successful with white settlers—Matthew Arnold’s brother Tom, then living in New Zealand, noted that there was ‘something less manly about him than I expected’. In life he constantly antagonized them, and in death he bequeathed them a fateful phrase of his own invention: ‘One Man One Vote’.

2
But she was unable to prevent, in the following year, the barbaric destruction of the tomb of the Mahdi, whose bones were thrown into the Nile, and whose skull Kitchener proposed to send to the Royal College of Surgeons to be exhibited with Napoleon’s intestines. The Queen thought this medieval—after all, the Mahdi
‘was
a man of a
certain
importance’—and in the end the skull was secretly buried by night at Wadi Halfa.

1
Among the other loot was the gold crown of the Emperor Theodore. It remained in England until the Emperor Haile Selassie was exiled there in 1936, when King George V gave it back to him.

2
Though Indians claim the British later used the Ajanta statuary for target practice.

1
At Como this infatuated servant of the Raj thought he saw a headquarters revenue official (
Sadr
Kanungo
),
with his clerks, bringing the land ownership records to be inspected; at Avignon the spectre of an Indian watchman, holding his incident notebook, grinned cheerfully at him on the railway station; at Monaco he ordered ten days in the lock-up (
das
roz
tak
hawalat
) for the prosecuted gamblers. ‘Maxim’s new machine’ was presumably the steam-driven flying machine which, in 1894, Hiram Maxim persuaded to rise a few inches from the ground at Bexley in Kent. Maxim (1840–1916), a British-naturalized American, was an imperial figure himself, for his machine-gun was the standard automatic weapon of the British Army: he was knighted in 1901.

1
And when Kipling spoke of those ‘lesser breeds’, if we are to believe George Orwell, it was not the coloured peoples that he meant. The phrase, Orwell thought, ‘refers almost certainly to the Germans, and especially the pan-German writers, who are “without the Law” in the sense of being lawless’. Certainly in the context of the verse, from the poem
Recessional,
it is hard to see how Kipling could have had powerless subject peoples in mind:

If,
drunk
with
sight
of
power,
we
loose

  
Wild
tongues
that
have
not
Thee
in
awe,

Such
boastings
as
the
Gentiles
use,

  
Or
lesser
breeds
without
the
Law

Lord
God
of
Hosts,
be
with
us
yet,

Lest
we
forget

lest
we
forget
!

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