Lesser Beasts: A Snout-to-Tail History of the Humble Pig (28 page)

202
By 1960 bacon had shed its reputation
:
Horowitz,
Putting Meat
, 62–69.

202
leading to headlines such as
:
“Missouri Town Reports 47 Cases of Trichinosis,”
New York Times
, January 28, 1969.

203
When in-sink garbage grinders such as the DisposAll
:
“Garbage Grinder Becomes an Issue,”
New York Times
, May 5, 1966.

203
In a period of just over two years
:
Thomas Moore, “Prevailing Methods of Garbage Collection and Disposal in American Cities,”
The American City
22 (1920): 602–608; Martin Melosi,
The Sanitary City
(Pittsburgh, PA: University of Pittsburgh Press, 2008), 116, 127, 163, 206.

203
The farms survived until 1960
:
Orville Schell,
Modern Meat
(New York: Random House, 1984), 71–85.

204
“Human trichinosis is based almost entirely on porcine trichinosis”
:
Sylvester Gould,
Trichinosis in Man and Animals
(Springfield, IL: Thomas, 1970), 506.

204
“Although garbage-fed hogs are daily sold as food”
:
Moore, “Prevailing Methods.”

204
Meat quality suffered
:
R. Lawrie,
Lawrie’s Meat Science
(Boca Raton, FL: Woodhead Publishing, 2006), 99.

204
As one scientific study noted
:
Gould,
Trichinosis
394.

204
A 1942 study from the USDA noted
:
Family Food Consumption in the United States, Spring 1942
(Washington, DC: US Department of Agriculture, 1944), 15.

205
A 1955 study of urban consumers found
:
Faith Clark et al.,
Food Consumption of Urban Families in the United States
(Washington, DC: US Department of Agriculture, 1955), Table 75.

205
Urbanites devoted half of their meat consumption to beef
:
Family Food Consumption
, 14–15.

205
That year, for the first time, Americans ate more beef
:
J. L. Anderson, “Lard to Lean: Making the Meat-Type Hog in Post–World War II America,” in
Food Chains
, ed. Warren Belasco and Roger Horowitz (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2009), 30.

205
By the 1970s, pork consumption had fallen
:
Warren,
Tied
, 222; Christopher Davis and Biing-Hwan Lin,
Factors Affecting U.S. Pork Consumption
(Washington, DC: US Department of Agriculture, 2005), 4.

205
The president of the National Pork Producers Council traveled the country
:
Don Muhm,
Iowa Pork and People
(Clive: Iowa Pork Foundation, 1995), 60.

205
They created a mascot, Lady Loinette
:
Jenny Barker Devine, “‘Hop to the Top with the Iowa Chop’: The Iowa Porkettes and Cultivating Agrarian Feminisms in the Midwest, 1964–1992,”
Agricultural History
83 (2009): 480.

206
One queen asked, “Who first but Iowa”
:
Muhm,
Iowa Pork
, 100.

206
The Porkettes held contests for baking with lard
:
Muhm,
Iowa Pork
, 90.

206
The group’s magazine,
Ladies Pork Journal
, included:
Muhm,
Iowa Pork
, 79.

206
The first president of the Porkettes told a story
:
Devine, “Hop to the Top,” 478.

206
Another Porkette was conducting a grocery store promotion
:
Muhm,
Iowa Pork
, 107.

Chapter 16

207
When the lights came on:
Rolland Paul et al.,
The Pork Story
(Des Moines, IA: NPPC, 1991), 183.

207
Many thought it was a “dumb idea”
:
Paul et al.,
Pork Story
, 183.

208
In one survey more than a third of Americans agreed
:
J. L. Anderson, “Lard to Lean: Making the Meat-Type Hog in Post–World War II America,” in
Food Chains
, ed. Warren Belasco and Roger Horowitz (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2009), 42; also see National Research Council,
Designing Foods
(Washington, DC: National Academy Press, 1988), 43.

208
Eight out of ten Americans recognized the phrase
:
“Humane Society Lawsuit Brings National Pork Board Response,”
Western Farm Press
, September 27, 2012; Richard Horwitz,
Hog Ties
(Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press, 2002), 39.

208
In 2011
Adweek
deemed the campaign:
Ed Norton, “‘The Other White Meat’ Finally Cedes Its Place,”
Adweek
, March 4, 2011.

210
In 1907 the Danes had created swine testing stations
:
Earl B. Shaw, “Swine Industry of Denmark,”
Economic Geography
14 (1938): 23; Julian Wiseman,
The Pig
, 2nd ed. (London: Duckworth, 2000), 71–73.

210
The Hampshire registry, for instance, specified
:
Don Muhm,
Iowa Pork and People
(Clive: Iowa Pork Foundation, 1995), 196.

211
By the 1970s, a pig of the same size
:
Anderson, “Lard to Lean,” 39.

211
They roamed on pasture in the spring
:
F. B. Morrison,
Feeds and Feeding
(Ithaca, NY: Morrison Publishing, 1956), 843–867.

211
In 1938 the United States raised 62 million hogs
:
Richard Perren,
Taste, Trade and Technology
(Burlington, VT: Ashgate, 2006), 110; Earl B. Shaw, “Swine Production in the Corn Belt of the United States,”
Economic Geography
12 (1936): 359.

211
Since the 1920s scientists had understood
:
Terry G. Summons, “Animal Feed Additives, 1940–1966,”
Agricultural History
42 (1968): 305–306.

212
Pfizer claimed that pigs dosed with Terramycin
:
J. L. Anderson,
Industrializing the Corn Belt
(DeKalb, IL: Northern Illinois University Press, 2009), 93.

212
By the 1960s, livestock consumed
:
William Boyd, “Making Meat: Science, Technology, and American Poultry Production,”
Technology and Culture
42 (2001): 648; also see M. Finlay, “Hogs, Antibiotics and the Industrial Environments of Postwar Agriculture,” in
Industrializing Organisms
, ed. Philip Scranton and Susan Schrepfer (New York: Routledge, 2004), 239.

213
With farmland so expensive, one farmer asked
:
Orville Schell,
Modern Meat
(New York: Random House, 1984), 61.

213
Antibiotics, the drug salesman said, help pigs
:
Schell,
Modern Meat
, 13.

213
In 1972 an agricultural magazine predicted
:
Anderson,
Industrializing
, 103.

213
Farmhands, though, were scarce in the 1950s
:
Paul Robbins, “Labor Situations Facing the Producer,” in
The Pork Industry
, ed. David Topel (Ames: Iowa State University Press, 1968), 211.

214
Compared to its ancestor in the 1930s, a broiler chicken
:
Boyd, “Making Meat,” 638.

214
Thanks to low prices and a healthy image
:
W. J. Warren,
Tied to the Great Packing Machine
(Iowa City: University of Iowa Press, 2007), 223.

214
“The use of slotted floors has probably accelerated”
:
Al Jensen,
Management and Housing for Confinement Swine Production
(Urbana: University of Illinois, 1972), 7.

215
For each pig weighing 150 to 250 pounds
:
Wilson G. Pond, “Modern Pork Production,”
Scientific American
248 (1983): 102.

215
In such close quarters, pigs kept each other warm
:
Abigail Woods, “Rethinking the History of Modern Agriculture: British Pig Production, c. 1910–65,”
Twentieth Century British History
23 (2011): 173.

215
Crowded together, they shuffled around more
:
Chris Mayda, “Pig Pens, Hog Houses, and Manure Pits: A Century of Change in Hog Production,”
Material Culture
36 (2004): 25.

215
Slatted floors made the farmer’s life easier
:
Ronald Plain, James R. Foster, and Kenneth A. Foster,
Pork Production Systems with Business Analyses
(Raleigh: North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service, 1995).

215
The “comfort and convenience” of the farmer
:
Jensen,
Management
, 3.

215
In a celebratory cover story in
Scientific American
:
Pond, “Modern Pork Production,” 96.

216
By 2000, three-quarters of sows in the United States
:
Nigel Key and William D. McBride,
The Changing Economics of U.S. Hog Production
(Washington, DC: US Department of Agriculture, 2007), 12.

216
Breeding stock tended to be purebreds
:
Paul Brassley, “Cutting Across Nature? The History of Artificial Insemination in Pigs in the United Kingdom,”
Studies in History and Philosophy of Biological and Biomedical Sciences
38 (2007): 442–461.

217
“If a sow has a litter of twelve and rolls on three”
:
Schell,
Modern Meat
, 63.

217
Today, it takes less than three pounds
:
John McGlone, “Swine,” in
Animal Welfare in Animal Agriculture
, ed. Wilson G. Pond, Fuller W. Bazer, and Bernard E. Rollin (Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press, 2012), 150.

217
As one animal scientist explained
:
McGlone, “Swine,” 150.

218
Scientists from Texas A&M University showed
:
Anderson, “Lard to Lean,” 43–44.

218
After an initial boost spurred by the campaign
:
Jane L. Levere, “The Pork Industry’s ‘Other White Meat’ Campaign Is Taken in New Directions,”
New York Times
, March 4, 2005; Trish Hall, “And This Little Piggy Is Now on the Menu,”
New York Times
, November 13, 1991.

218
Meanwhile, consumption of chicken
:
Warren,
Tied
, 222.

218
At an industry conference in the 1960s
:
Irvin Omtvedt, “Some Heritability Characteristics,” in Topel,
Pork Industry
, 128.

218
In 2000, industry experts writing in
National Hog Farmer
:
Tom J. Baas and Rodney Goodwin, “Genetic-Based Niche Marketing Programs,”
National Hog Farmer
, August 1, 2000.

219
“Their personalities are completely different”
:
Temple Grandin and Catherine Johnson,
Animals in Translation
(New York: Scribner, 2005), 101. Also see Pond, “Modern Pork Production,” 100.

219
As a group of veterinarians explained
:
European Union,
The Welfare of Intensively Kept Pigs
(Brussels: European Commission, 1997), 4.8.2.

Chapter 17

221
“If it is not feasible to do this in a confinement operation”
:
Bernard Rollin,
Putting the Horse Before Descartes
(Philadelphia: Temple University Press, 2011), 207.

222
The
New York Times
printed its first analysis of modern pig farming:
William Serrin, “Hog Production Swept by Agricultural Revolution,”
New York Times
, August 11, 1980.

222
In 1995 the
Raleigh News and Observer
earned a Pulitzer Prize:
Pat Stith, Joby Warrick, and Melanie Sill, “Boss Hog,”
Raleigh News and Observer
, February 19, 1995.

222
As one industry insider explained, “For modern agriculture”
:
Peter Cheeke,
Contemporary Issues in Animal Agriculture
(Danville, IL: Interstate, 1999), 248.

223
By the late 1960s, however, a livestock expert had already noted
:
Herrell DeGraff, “Introduction,” in
The Pork Industry
, ed. David Topel (Ames: Iowa State University Press, 1968), xii.

223
Secretary of Agriculture Ezra Taft Benson infamously offered this advice
:
Wendell Berry,
The Way of Ignorance
(New York: Counterpoint, 2006), 117.

223
In 1950, the average hog farm had 19 animals
:
National Animal Health Monitoring System,
Swine 2006
,
Part IV
(Fort Collins, CO: US Department of Agriculture, 2008), 5.

223
By 2004, 80 percent of hogs lived
:
Nigel Key and William D. McBride,
The Changing Economics of U.S. Hog Production
(Washington, DC: US Department of Agriculture, 2007), 5.

223
In 2010, the top four hog producers had captured two-thirds of the market
:
Timothy A. Wise and Sarah E. Trist, “Buyer Power in U.S. Hog Markets,”
Global Development and Environment Institute Working Papers
10 (2010): 4, 6.

224
The company owns the slaughtering plants
:
Pew Commission on Industrial Farm Animal Production,
Putting Meat on the Table
(Philadelphia: Pew Charitable Trusts, 2008), 42.