Lesser Beasts: A Snout-to-Tail History of the Humble Pig (27 page)

175
In 1837 corn-fed hogs sold for $5
:
Rudolf Clemen,
The American Livestock and Meat Industry
(New York: Ronald Press, 1923), 54.

175
A visitor to the Illinois prairie in 1837
:
S. A. Mitchell,
Illinois in 1837
(Philadelphia: S. A. Mitchell, 1837), 42.

176
Organs, as well as meat from ribs and necks
:
Cist, “Hog,” 386.

177
That meant big packers could pay higher prices for pigs
:
Cist, “Hog,” 385–386.

177
Widows typically received 120 pounds
:
Richard Cummings,
The American and His Food
(Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1941), 15.

177
In the antebellum South, a typical ration
:
Kenneth Kiple,
Another Dimension to the Black Diaspora
(New York: Cambridge University Press, 1981), 81–82.

177
Laborers in the North ate 170 pounds
:
W. J. Warren,
Tied to the Great Packing Machine
(Iowa City: University of Iowa Press, 2007), 221.

177
“There are a great many ill conveniences here”
:
Arthur Schlesinger,
Paths to the Present
(New York: Houghton Mifflin, 1964), 244.

177
The United States in 1900 saw itself as a nation
:
Warren,
Tied
, 223.

178
and even in 1900 only two
:
Roderick Floud,
The Changing Body
(New York: Cambridge University Press, 2011), 309.

178
In his 1845 novel
The Chainbearer: James Fenimore Cooper,
The Chainbearer
(New York: D. Appleton, 1833), 102.

178
In Eliza Leslie’s
Directions for Cookery: Eliza Leslie,
Directions for Cookery
(Philadelphia: Carey & Hart, 1844), 120.

178
One man, recalling his midwestern childhood
:
Robert Leslie Jones,
History of Agriculture in Ohio to 1880
(Kent, OH: Kent State University Press, 1983).

178
As a physician wrote in the magazine
Godey’s Lady’s Book: Joseph Stainback Wilson, “Quantity of Gastric Juice,”
Godey’s Lady’s Book
60 (1860): 178.

179
The upper class bought refrigerated beef
:
Richard Perren,
Taste, Trade and Technology
(Burlington, VT: Ashgate, 2006), 1–8.

179
As shipping technology improved and global trade expanded
:
Jack Goody,
Cooking, Cuisine, and Class
(New York: Cambridge University Press, 1982), 154.

179
Workers who once had spent 50 to 75 percent
:
Stephen Broadberry and Kevin 179. O’Rourke,
The Cambridge Economic History of Modern Europe
(New York: Cambridge University Press, 2010), 1:148; Wilhelm Abel,
Agricultural Fluctuations in Europe
(London: Methuen and Company, 1978), 142.

180
The average height of adults
:
Gretel Pelto and Pertti Pelto, “Diet and Delocalization,”
Journal of Interdisciplinary History
14 (1983): 514–515.

Chapter 14

181
As they rounded up stray pigs
:
Catherine McNeur, “‘The Swinish Multitude’: Controversies over Hogs in Antebellum New York City,”
Journal of Urban History
37 (2011): 639.

181
Someone threw a brick
:
McNeur, “Swinish Multitude,” 639.

181
The city’s streets functioned
:
Hendrik Hartog, “Pigs and Positivism,”
Wisconsin Law Review
(July/August 1985): 904.

182
The odds of that happening were good
:
McNeur, “Swinish Multitude,” 640.

182
The pigs devoured “all kinds of refuse”
:
Ole Munch Ræder,
America in the Forties
(Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press, 1929), 78.

182
Colonial New England towns appointed “hog reeves”
:
William Cronon,
Changes in the Land
(New York: Hill and Wang, 1983), 136.

183
These were not chubby Corn Belt pigs
:
Charles Dickens,
American Notes
(London: Chapman and Hall, 1868), 38.

183
Loose pigs in the streets
:
C. H. Wilson,
The Wanderer in America
(Thirsk, UK: H. Masterman, 1822), 18.

183
In
The Condition of the Working-Class in England
:
Friedrich Engels,
The Condition of the Working-Class in England in 1844
(London: Allen and Unwin, 1892), 52–53, 49.

183
In the Potteries, a large slum
:
Peter Stallybrass,
The Politics and Poetics of Transgression
(Ithaca, NY: Cornell University Press, 1986), 147.

183
In
Reflections on the Revolution in France
: Edmund Burke,
Reflections on the Revolution in France
(London: J. Dodsley, 1790), 117.

184
In the 1860s and 1870s, public health measures
:
Robert Malcolmson,
The English Pig
(London: Hambledon, 2001), 43.

184
New York’s professional police force
:
McNeur, “Swinish Multitude,” 648.

185
Southerners “delight in their present low”
:
Forrest McDonald and Grady McWhiney, “The South from Self-Sufficiency to Peonage: An Interpretation,”
American Historical Review
85 (1980): 1095.

185
If this were true
:
R. Ben Brown, “The Southern Range: A Study of Nineteenth Century Law and Society” (PhD diss., University of Michigan, 1993), 161.

186
That left millions of acres available
:
Brown, “Southern Range,” 3; Michael Williams,
Americans and Their Forests
(New York: Cambridge University Press, 1989), 118–120.

186
“You can keep as many pigs as you wish”
:
Joseph Eder, “A Bavarian’s Journey to New Orleans and Nacogdoches in 1853–1854,”
Louisiana Historical Quarterly
23 (1940): 497.

186
A prosperous farmer in the Blue Ridge Mountains
:
M. R. Walpole, “The Closing of the Open Range in Watauga County, NC,”
Appalachian Journal
16 (1989): 326.

186
Barbecue—both the word and the technique were borrowed
:
John Shelton Reed, Dale Volberg Reed, and William McKinney,
Holy Smoke
(Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 2008), 12–14.

186
As one English visitor to America explained
:
Reuben Gold Thwaites et al.,
Early Western Travels, 1748–1846
(Cleveland, OH: Clark, 1905), 11:106.

187
Laborers, he wrote, if “furnished with free food”
:
Brown, “Southern Range,” 190.

187
Legislatures in every state closed the range
:
Brown, “Southern Range,” 280.

187
A newspaper claimed that this change
:
Brown, “Southern Range,” 217.

187
This was indeed the effect
:
E. P. Thompson,
The Making of the English Working Class
(New York: Pantheon, 1964), 217.

187
Historians who examined six counties in Alabama and Mississippi
:
McDonald and McWhiney, “South from Self-Sufficiency,” 1114.

188
In the 1880s, one writer described
:
Brown, “Southern Range,” 222.

188
In nineteenth-century England
:
Peter Bowden, “Agricultural Prices, Farm Profits, and Rents,” in
The Agrarian History of England and Wales
, ed. Joan Thirsk and H. P. R. Finberg (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1967), 4:416.

188
“Life without a pig was almost unthinkable”
:
Walter Rose,
Good Neighbours
(Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2010), 58.

188
The pig was “one of the best friends of the poor”
:
Malcolmson,
English Pig
, 45.

188
“The pig was an important member of the family”
:
Flora Thompson,
Lark Rise to Candleford
(Boston: David R. Godine, 2009), 10.

189
“Not much profit there”
:
Ralph Whitlock,
The Land First
(London: Museum Press, 1954), 78.

189
“Watching her now as she tucked into a sort of hash”
:
P. G. Wodehouse,
Heavy Weather
, in
Life at Blandings
(New York: Penguin, 1981), 415.

189
E. B. White, who lived
:
E. B. White, “Death of a Pig,” in
The American Idea
, ed. Robert Vare (New York: Doubleday, 2007), 286–294.

190
According to an English observer, “A man”
:
Reginald Ernest Moreau,
The Departed Village
(London: Oxford University Press, 1968), 114.

190
A study of Oxfordshire suggested that raising pigs
:
Malcolmson,
English Pig
, 57.

190
“Pig clubs,” a sort of mutual insurance program
:
Malcolmson,
English Pig
, 59.

190
In
Middlemarch
, George Eliot defines a happy village:
George Eliot,
Middlemarch
(New York: Harper & Brothers, 18732), 277.

191
“The killing of the pig”
:
Rose,
Good Neighbours
, 65.

191
Pa removes the bladder
:
Laura Ingalls Wilder,
Little House in the Big Woods
(New York: Harper Trophy, 1971), 14–15.

191
One girl recalled that, during the pig killing
:
Thompson,
Lark Rise
, 12, 271.

191
Thomas Hardy devotes an entire chapter of
Jude the Obscure:
Thomas Hardy,
Jude the Obscure
(New York: Harper & Brothers, 1895), 1:71–72.

Chapter 15

195
“The ear was assailed by a most terrifying shriek”
:
Upton Sinclair,
The Jungle
(New York: Penguin: 2001), 39–40.

196
A newspaper described Sinclair’s concern for pig suffering
:
W. J. Warren,
Tied to the Great Packing Machine
(Iowa City: University of Iowa Press, 2007), 127.

196
“I aimed at the public’s heart”
:
James Harvey Young,
Pure Food
(Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 1989), 229.

196
There was never the least attention paid
:
Sinclair,
Jungle
, 136–137.

198
The government victory proved only nominal
:
A. M. Azzam and Dale G. Anderson,
Assessing Competition in Meatpacking
(Washington, DC: US Department of Agriculture, 1996), 15–16; Alfred Chandler,
Strategy and Structure
(Cambridge, MA: MIT Press, 1969), 25–26.

198
Meatpackers had been using borax
:
Roger Horowitz,
Putting Meat on the American Table
(Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press, 2006), 59.

199
The federal government took over inspection
:
Doris Kearns Goodwin,
The Bully Pulpit
(New York: Simon & Schuster, 2013), 465–466.

199
In the decade after
The Jungle
’s publication:
Warren,
Tied
, 145–146, 221.

199
Meatpackers, though, blamed
The Jungle: Warren,
Tied
, 146.

199
According to Edward Hitchcock
:
Edward Hitchcock,
Dyspepsy Forestalled
(Amherst, MA: J. S. & C. Adams, 1831), 185.

199
“Fat bacon and pork are peculiarly appropriate for negroes”
:
Joseph Stainback Wilson, “Quantity of Gastric Juice,”
Godey’s Lady’s Book
60 (1860): 178.

199
This was thanks in no small part to Sylvester Graham
:
Stephen Nissenbaum,
Sex, Diet, and Debility in Jacksonian America
(Westport, CT: Greenwood Press, 1980), 44.

200
America had inherited from England a hierarchy
:
Joan Thirsk,
Food in Early Modern England
(London: Continuum, 2006), 249.

200
One cookbook writer dismissed barreled pork
:
Horowitz,
Putting Meat
, 45.

200
another described pork as “dangerously unwholesome”
:
Keith Stavely,
America’s Founding Food
(Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 2004), 193–194.

200
An 1893 guide to household management claimed
:
Marion Harland,
Common Sense in the Household
(New York: Charles Scribner, 1893), 116.

200
For southern whites, the same was true
:
Horowitz,
Putting Meat
, 12.

201
American hams—especially Virginia’s Smithfield variety
:
Joseph Earl Dabney,
Smokehouse Ham, Spoon Bread and Scuppernong Wine
(Nashville, TN: Cumberland House, 1998), 189.

201
Later they invented “vein-pumping”
:
Horowitz,
Putting Meat
, 60–62.

202
The method could not deliver the intense flavor
:
Horowitz,
Putting Meat
, 58.