Authors: Robert Macfarlane
The old men say their fathers
told them that soon after the fields were left to themselves a change began to be visible. It became green everywhere in the first spring, after London ended, so that all the country looked alike … No fields, indeed, remained, for where the ground was dry, the thorns, briars, brambles, and saplings already mentioned filled the space, and these thickets and the young trees had converted most part of the country into an immense forest … By the thirtieth year there was not one single open place, the hills only excepted, where a man could walk, unless he followed the tracks of wild creatures or cut himself a path.
Grass here – as so often in eco-apocalyptic literature – is the concealer and healer, greenly unwounding the damaged earth. Only a few humans have survived the scarification of their species. Mad-Maxish tribes of ‘gypsies’ and ‘Bushmen’ roam the land, divided along ethnic as well as self-interested lines. Jefferies’ book follows its lone hero, Sir Felix Aquila, as he navigates the landscape and tries to find a way to re-establish a viable community that might mature into a worthwhile civilization. Early in the novel, Aquila crosses a vast inland lake to reach a noxious swamp, which he eventually realizes is the site of
‘the deserted and utterly extinct city of London’
, now lying under his feet. The capital is granted no reprieve by the punitive Jefferies; Aquila is present to witness its total vanquishing by nature.
Nature near London
contains the seeds of
After London
. As he wandered his edgelands, Jefferies’ eye was often caught by signs of nature’s irrepressibility: the desirable ease and swiftness with which it might return to absorb human structures. He notices a ruined barn, on whose
‘old red brick wall
… mosses have grown … following the lines of the mortar’, and on which ‘bunches of wall grasses flourish’. He writes approvingly of
‘the great nature
which comes pressing up so closely to the metropolis’. Nature near London is waiting patiently for its chance to claim back its territory – the humanized landscape predicting its coming obliteration.
In 1887, a decade after moving to Surbiton, Jefferies died of tuberculosis at the age of thirty-eight. He was buried in the Broadwater cemetery in Goring, then a suburb of the Sussex town of Worthing. At the time of Jefferies’ burial the cemetery was in open country, but Worthing has since spread and its edgelands have converged around the site, which now looks on to a car park, a flyover and two schools. Trees – yews, hawthorn, ash, sycamore and oak – grow thickly over the cemetery’s thirty-four acres, though, and the area retains – at least in daylight – an atmosphere of calmness and natural life.
Jefferies’ grave is marked by a ziggurat headstone of white marble, set into a marble-bordered plot. The inscription on the border reads, in heavily serifed black lettering: ‘To the honoured memory of the prose poet of England’s fields and woodlands’. The interior of the plot has been filled with earth, in which now grows a profusion of weeds and wild flowers: ox-eye daisies, daffodils, agrimony, lady’s bed-straw, wild mignonette …
bar-slap | temporary gate in a gap in a drystone wall Galloway |
boodge | to stuff bushes into a hedge to confine livestock Herefordshire |
buckhead | to cut the top off a hedge to within about two or three feet of the ground Suffolk |
bullfinch | hedge that is allowed to grow high without laying Northamptonshire |
buttil | to fix boundaries Suffolk |
carvet | thick hedgerow Kent |
cop | bank of earth on which a hedge grows Cumbria |
cuasnóg | wild bees’ nest Irish |
glat | gap in a hedge Herefordshire |
grounders | bottom stones in a hedge Cornwall |
hangstreet | upright part of a gate, to which the hinges are attached Herefordshire |
hare-gate | opening in a hedge sufficient for the passage of hares Lancashire |
hedgers, soldiers, toppers | top stones in a hedge or wall Cornwall |
kes , kess | build-up of soil and stone along the base of a very old hedge Cumbria |
lunkie | hole deliberately left in a wall for an animal to pass through Scots |
May-mess | profusion of hedge blossom in full spring (Gerard Manley Hopkins) poetic |
outshifts | fringes, boundaries and least-regarded parts of a town East Anglia |
prick-nickle | dry hedge of thorns set to protect a newly planted fence Northamptonshire |
round-about | boundary hedge of a coppice Northamptonshire |
selvedge | field boundary; also the edge of a piece of woven material finished so as to prevent unravelling agricultural |
shard | gap in a hedge south-west England |
shattles , shettles | bars of a five-barred gate Exmoor |
smeuse | gap in the base of a hedge made by the regular passage of a small animal Sussex |
smout | hole in a hedge used by a hare Derbyshire, Lincolnshire, northern England, Somerset |
soft estate | natural habitats that have evolved along the borders and verges of motorways and trunk roads Highways Agency |
squiggle | to wriggle through a hedge Essex |
stoop | gatepost Cumbria |
thru’-ban, thrubin, truban | long stones for building a dyke Galloway |
arrest | harvest Exmoor |
ass-upping | of hoeing: to turn the docks and thistles end upwards, or to cause the posterior to be the superior part of the body while stooping in the act of hoeing East Anglia |
bing | a passage in a cowhouse, along the heads of the stalls Herefordshire |
BMV | of agricultural land: Best and Most Versatile official |
bog | to burn dead grass Staffordshire |
boon | party of men, usually neighbouring farmers, helping each other out during harvests Ireland |
brake | field after the corn has been reaped Northamptonshire |
bray | hay spread to dry in long rows Cotswolds |
comhar | sharing of work or equipment between neighbours; mutual assistance Irish |
cropmark | light and dark marks visible in growing and ripening crops, especially via aerial photography agricultural |
crow | stone shed west Cornwall |
feather pie | hole in the ground, filled with feathers fixed on strings and kept in motion by the wind, as a device to scare birds East Anglia |
fid | portion of straw pulled out and arranged for thatching Kent |
fochann | corn beginning to blade Gaelic |
fozie | of turnips: not good, spongy Northern Ireland |
franion , frem | of a crop: luxuriant, thriving Northamptonshire |
gort | field Irish |
gurracag | heap of hay or corn not yet made into stacks Gaelic |
hain | to leave a meadow ungrazed to allow cutting later Northamptonshire |
hallo | bundle of straw made up for laying before cattle for fodder Shetland |
headland | strip of land at the edge of a field where agricultural machinery turns back into work agricultural |
howk | to dig, as in ‘tattie-howking’ Scots |
jogget | small load of hay Cotswolds |
malkin , mawkin | scarecrow Northamptonshire |
maumble | moist soil that clings to the spade in digging Northamptonshire |
meat-earth | good and fertile soil, as distinguished from clay, gravel or sand Exmoor |
mommet | scarecrow Yorkshire |
moocher | potato, left in the ground, which sprouts again Herefordshire |
ollands | pasture Fenland |
pannage | fattening of domestic pigs on acorns agricultural |
pook | heap of new-mown hay that has been cut and turned and is awaiting baling West Country |
prink | of crops or seedling plants: to emerge from the ground East Anglia |
risk | to cut grass with a sickle Shetland |
sock | liquid manure Staffordshire |
swarf | line or row of cut grass as left by the harvester Kent |
swedeland | countryside as perceived by someone from a town or city English (urban slang) |
swipe | to beat down bracken with rotating flails from the back of a tractor Exmoor |
ted | to turn over hay Staffordshire |
walter | of corn: to roil and twist about in heavy wind and rain East Anglia |
wayzgoose | scarecrow Cornwall |
wharve | to turn over mown grass with a rake Shetland |
wind-rows | hay raked together in rows, so that the wind may dry it Northamptonshire |
zwar | crop of grass to be mown for hay Exmoor |
addle | headland of a field Northamptonshire |
balk | ridge between two furrows, or strip of ground left unploughed as a boundary line between two ploughed portions agricultural |
berhog | sterile piece of ground Shetland |
browings | cleared areas that were formerly brambled East Anglia |
bukli tan | waste-ground by the roadside Anglo-Romani |
cant | corner of a field Sussex |
capper | crust formed on recently harrowed land by heavy rain Suffolk |
centroid | point in a field from which the Rural Payments Agency takes the Ordnance Survey references official |
chart | rough wasteland or common Kent |
cockshot , cockshut | glade where woodcock were netted as they flew through Herefordshire |
cowlease | unmown meadow Exmoor |
dallop | patch of ground among growing corn that the plough has missed East Anglia |
dwarf money | old coins turned up in ploughing Herefordshire |
eddish | second crop of grass; also lattermath, aftermath Northamptonshire |
elting-moulds | soft ridges of fresh-ploughed land Northamptonshire |
end-rigg | last row of the plough Scots |
fairy darts, fairy money | prehistoric arrowheads/coins turned up in ploughing Herefordshire |
first-earth | first ploughing Suffolk |
flinket | long, narrow strip of land, whether arable or pasture Northamptonshire |
fog | poor-quality grassland on which cattle could fend for themselves in the winter months Derbyshire |
hawmell | small paddock Kent |
intack | enclosed piece of common Lancashire |
konsas | areas or corners of land suitable for making camp on Anglo-Romani |
ley-field | grass field ploughed for the first time Galloway |
marsk | high, rough pasture Cumbria |
okrigjert | stubble field Shetland |
pightle | small grass field near a house Essex |
pingle | enclosure of low shrubs or brushwood Fenland |
plough-pan | compacted layer in cultivated soil resulting from repeated ploughing agricultural |
queach | unploughable, overgrown land Northamptonshire |
sillion | shining, curved face of earth recently turned by the plough poetic |
strip lynchet | bank of earth that builds up on the downslope of a field ploughed for a long period of time agricultural |
vores | furrows Devon |
warp | soil between two furrows Sussex |
after; afterings | to extract the last milk from a cow; last milk drawn from a cow Staffordshire |
al’mark | animal that cannot be restrained from trespassing on crop-land; sheep that jumps over dykes or breaks through fences Shetland |
antony | runt of a litter of pigs Northamptonshire |
báini-báini | used to call pigs to eat Irish |
beestings | first milk from a cow after calving Staffordshire |
beezlings | third or fourth milk from a cow after calving, said to be particularly rich Suffolk |
belsh | to cut the dung away from around a sheep’s tail Exmoor |
billy-lamb | lamb reared by hand Northamptonshire |
bishop | over-large heap of manure Herefordshire |
buttons | sheep dung Exmoor |
caoirnein | globule of sheep dung Gaelic |
chook-chook-chook | call to chickens Herefordshire |
ciorag | pet sheep Gaelic |
clart | clot of wool or manure on an animal Galloway |
crew-yard | winter yard for cattle Fenland |
crottle | hare dung hunting |
dilly-dilly-dilly | call to ducks Herefordshire |
doofers | horse dung Scots |
dottle | sheep dung Scots |
eksben | thigh bone of a slaughtered animal Shetland |
faing | enclosure for holding sheep Gaelic |
flop | cow dung on pasture Suffolk |
fumes | deer dung hunting |
gibby | child’s name for a sheep Exmoor |
gimmer | ewe between the first and second shearing northern England, Scotland |
grit-ewe | ewe in lamb Galloway |
heft; hefting | herd of sheep that have learnt their particular boundaries and stick to those areas throughout their lives (thus doing away with the need for fences); the skill by which sheep are taught to do this agricultural |
hefting | skill by which sheep are familiarized with and thus stay within one territory on hills or fells, without resorting to fences or walls to pen them in agricultural |
hogg , hogget | young sheep of either sex from nine to eighteen months (until it cuts two teeth) agricultural |
ho-ho-ho | call to cattle Herefordshire |
hummer | gentle murmuring neigh a horse makes when it hears someone it likes approaching or the fodder being brought Suffolk |
kepp-kepp-kepp | call to poultry Herefordshire |
koop-koop-koop | call to horses Herefordshire |
krog | to crook or crouch when taking shelter from the weather under some high overhanging thing, as cattle do Shetland |
lamb-storms | storms near the vernal equinox, often hurtful to new-weaned lambs East Anglia |
langle | to tie the forelegs of an animal to prevent it leaping Galloway |
licking | last meal given to cattle before milking Staffordshire |
maxon | heap of dung Sussex |
oo | wool Galloway |
pirl | single globule of sheep’s dung Shetland |
plat | cow dung Scots |
riggwelter | sheep that has fallen onto its back and can’t get up because of the weight of its fleece Cumbria |
scalps | rinds of turnips, left by the sheep in the fields Northamptonshire |
scrave | bench for cleaning a fresh-killed pig Essex |
sharn | cow dung for spreading on the fields Shetland |
sheep-hurk | permanent winter fold Northamptonshire |
si-ew-si-ew-si-ew | call to pigs Herefordshire |
skelloping | of cattle: rushing around the field Herefordshire |
spancel | rope used to tie up goats Northern Ireland |
sussing | noise made by pigs when feeding Suffolk |
teg | sheep in its second year Cumbria |
ting | to cause a swarm of bees to settle by means of ‘tinging’ a house key against glass or metal East Anglia |
transhumance | seasonal movement of grazing animals to and from pasture agricultural |
turdstool | very substantial cowpat south-west England |
twinter | two-year-old cow, ox, horse or sheep northern England, Scotland |
ujller | unctuous filth that runs from a dunghill Shetland |
wigging | removal of wool from around a sheep’s eyes to prevent wool blindness Cumbria |