Landmarks (22 page)

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Authors: Robert Macfarlane

BOOK: Landmarks
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The old men say their fathers
told them that soon after the fields were left to themselves a change began to be visible. It became green everywhere in the first spring, after London ended, so that all the country looked alike … No fields, indeed, remained, for where the ground was dry, the thorns, briars, brambles, and saplings already mentioned filled the space, and these thickets and the young trees had converted most part of the country into an immense forest … By the thirtieth year there was not one single open place, the hills only excepted, where a man could walk, unless he followed the tracks of wild creatures or cut himself a path.

Grass here – as so often in eco-apocalyptic literature – is the concealer and healer, greenly unwounding the damaged earth. Only a few humans have survived the scarification of their species. Mad-Maxish tribes of ‘gypsies’ and ‘Bushmen’ roam the land, divided along ethnic as well as self-interested lines. Jefferies’ book follows its lone hero, Sir Felix Aquila, as he navigates the landscape and tries to find a way to re-establish a viable community that might mature into a worthwhile civilization. Early in the novel, Aquila crosses a vast inland lake to reach a noxious swamp, which he eventually realizes is the site of
‘the deserted and utterly extinct city of London’
, now lying under his feet. The capital is granted no reprieve by the punitive Jefferies; Aquila is present to witness its total vanquishing by nature.

Nature near London
contains the seeds of
After London
. As he wandered his edgelands, Jefferies’ eye was often caught by signs of nature’s irrepressibility: the desirable ease and swiftness with which it might return to absorb human structures. He notices a ruined barn, on whose
‘old red brick wall
… mosses have grown … following the lines of the mortar’, and on which ‘bunches of wall grasses flourish’. He writes approvingly of
‘the great nature
which comes pressing up so closely to the metropolis’. Nature near London is waiting patiently for its chance to claim back its territory – the humanized landscape predicting its coming obliteration.

In 1887, a decade after moving to Surbiton, Jefferies died of tuberculosis at the age of thirty-eight. He was buried in the Broadwater cemetery in Goring, then a suburb of the Sussex town of Worthing. At the time of Jefferies’ burial the cemetery was in open country, but Worthing has since spread and its edgelands have converged around the site, which now looks on to a car park, a flyover and two schools. Trees – yews, hawthorn, ash, sycamore and oak – grow thickly over the cemetery’s thirty-four acres, though, and the area retains – at least in daylight – an atmosphere of calmness and natural life.

Jefferies’ grave is marked by a ziggurat headstone of white marble, set into a marble-bordered plot. The inscription on the border reads, in heavily serifed black lettering: ‘To the honoured memory of the prose poet of England’s fields and woodlands’. The interior of the plot has been filled with earth, in which now grows a profusion of weeds and wild flowers: ox-eye daisies, daffodils, agrimony, lady’s bed-straw, wild mignonette …

Glossary VII
Edgelands
Edges, Hedges and Boundaries
bar-slap
temporary gate in a gap in a drystone wall
Galloway
boodge
to stuff bushes into a hedge to confine livestock
Herefordshire
buckhead
to cut the top off a hedge to within about two or three feet of the ground
Suffolk
bullfinch
hedge that is allowed to grow high without laying
Northamptonshire
buttil
to fix boundaries
Suffolk
carvet
thick hedgerow
Kent
cop
bank of earth on which a hedge grows
Cumbria
cuasnóg
wild bees’ nest
Irish
glat
gap in a hedge
Herefordshire
grounders
bottom stones in a hedge
Cornwall
hangstreet
upright part of a gate, to which the hinges are attached
Herefordshire
hare-gate
opening in a hedge sufficient for the passage of hares
Lancashire
hedgers, soldiers, toppers
top stones in a hedge or wall
Cornwall
kes
,
kess
build-up of soil and stone along the base of a very old hedge
Cumbria
lunkie
hole deliberately left in a wall for an animal to pass through
Scots
May-mess
profusion of hedge blossom in full spring (Gerard Manley Hopkins)
poetic
outshifts
fringes, boundaries and least-regarded parts of a town
East Anglia
prick-nickle
dry hedge of thorns set to protect a newly planted fence
Northamptonshire
round-about
boundary hedge of a coppice
Northamptonshire
selvedge
field boundary; also the edge of a piece of woven material finished so as to prevent unravelling
agricultural
shard
gap in a hedge
south-west England
shattles
,
shettles
bars of a five-barred gate
Exmoor
smeuse
gap in the base of a hedge made by the regular passage of a small animal
Sussex
smout
hole in a hedge used by a hare
Derbyshire, Lincolnshire, northern England, Somerset
soft estate
natural habitats that have evolved along the borders and verges of motorways and trunk roads
Highways Agency
squiggle
to wriggle through a hedge
Essex
stoop
gatepost
Cumbria
thru’-ban, thrubin, truban
long stones for building a dyke
Galloway
Farming
arrest
harvest
Exmoor
ass-upping
of hoeing: to turn the docks and thistles end upwards, or to cause the posterior to be the superior part of the body while stooping in the act of hoeing
East Anglia
bing
a passage in a cowhouse, along the heads of the stalls
Herefordshire
BMV
of agricultural land: Best and Most Versatile
official
bog
to burn dead grass
Staffordshire
boon
party of men, usually neighbouring farmers, helping each other out during harvests
Ireland
brake
field after the corn has been reaped
Northamptonshire
bray
hay spread to dry in long rows
Cotswolds
comhar
sharing of work or equipment between neighbours; mutual assistance
Irish
cropmark
light and dark marks visible in growing and ripening crops, especially via aerial photography
agricultural
crow
stone shed
west Cornwall
feather pie
hole in the ground, filled with feathers fixed on strings and kept in motion by the wind, as a device to scare birds
East Anglia
fid
portion of straw pulled out and arranged for thatching
Kent
fochann
corn beginning to blade
Gaelic
fozie
of turnips: not good, spongy
Northern Ireland
franion
,
frem
of a crop: luxuriant, thriving
Northamptonshire
gort
field
Irish
gurracag
heap of hay or corn not yet made into stacks
Gaelic
hain
to leave a meadow ungrazed to allow cutting later
Northamptonshire
hallo
bundle of straw made up for laying before cattle for fodder
Shetland
headland
strip of land at the edge of a field where agricultural machinery turns back into work
agricultural
howk
to dig, as in ‘tattie-howking’
Scots
jogget
small load of hay
Cotswolds
malkin
,
mawkin
scarecrow
Northamptonshire
maumble
moist soil that clings to the spade in digging
Northamptonshire
meat-earth
good and fertile soil, as distinguished from clay, gravel or sand
Exmoor
mommet
scarecrow
Yorkshire
moocher
potato, left in the ground, which sprouts again
Herefordshire
ollands
pasture
Fenland
pannage
fattening of domestic pigs on acorns
agricultural
pook
heap of new-mown hay that has been cut and turned and is awaiting baling
West Country
prink
of crops or seedling plants: to emerge from the ground
East Anglia
risk
to cut grass with a sickle
Shetland
sock
liquid manure
Staffordshire
swarf
line or row of cut grass as left by the harvester
Kent
swedeland
countryside as perceived by someone from a town or city
English (urban slang)
swipe
to beat down bracken with rotating flails from the back of a tractor
Exmoor
ted
to turn over hay
Staffordshire
walter
of corn: to roil and twist about in heavy wind and rain
East Anglia
wayzgoose
scarecrow
Cornwall
wharve
to turn over mown grass with a rake
Shetland
wind-rows
hay raked together in rows, so that the wind may dry it
Northamptonshire
zwar
crop of grass to be mown for hay
Exmoor
Fields and Ploughing
addle
headland of a field
Northamptonshire
balk
ridge between two furrows, or strip of ground left unploughed as a boundary line between two ploughed portions
agricultural
berhog
sterile piece of ground
Shetland
browings
cleared areas that were formerly brambled
East Anglia
bukli tan
waste-ground by the roadside
Anglo-Romani
cant
corner of a field
Sussex
capper
crust formed on recently harrowed land by heavy rain
Suffolk
centroid
point in a field from which the Rural Payments Agency takes the Ordnance Survey references
official
chart
rough wasteland or common
Kent
cockshot
,
cockshut
glade where woodcock were netted as they flew through
Herefordshire
cowlease
unmown meadow
Exmoor
dallop
patch of ground among growing corn that the plough has missed
East Anglia
dwarf money
old coins turned up in ploughing
Herefordshire
eddish
second crop of grass; also lattermath, aftermath
Northamptonshire
elting-moulds
soft ridges of fresh-ploughed land
Northamptonshire
end-rigg
last row of the plough
Scots
fairy darts, fairy money
prehistoric arrowheads/coins turned up in ploughing
Herefordshire
first-earth
first ploughing
Suffolk
flinket
long, narrow strip of land, whether arable or pasture
Northamptonshire
fog
poor-quality grassland on which cattle could fend for themselves in the winter months
Derbyshire
hawmell
small paddock
Kent
intack
enclosed piece of common
Lancashire
konsas
areas or corners of land suitable for making camp on
Anglo-Romani
ley-field
grass field ploughed for the first time
Galloway
marsk
high, rough pasture
Cumbria
okrigjert
stubble field
Shetland
pightle
small grass field near a house
Essex
pingle
enclosure of low shrubs or brushwood
Fenland
plough-pan
compacted layer in cultivated soil resulting from repeated ploughing
agricultural
queach
unploughable, overgrown land
Northamptonshire
sillion
shining, curved face of earth recently turned by the plough
poetic
strip lynchet
bank of earth that builds up on the downslope of a field ploughed for a long period of time
agricultural
vores
furrows
Devon
warp
soil between two furrows
Sussex
Livestock
after;
afterings
to extract the last milk from a cow; last milk drawn from a cow
Staffordshire
al’mark
animal that cannot be restrained from trespassing on crop-land; sheep that jumps over dykes or breaks through fences
Shetland
antony
runt of a litter of pigs
Northamptonshire
báini-báini
used to call pigs to eat
Irish
beestings
first milk from a cow after calving
Staffordshire
beezlings
third or fourth milk from a cow after calving, said to be particularly rich
Suffolk
belsh
to cut the dung away from around a sheep’s tail
Exmoor
billy-lamb
lamb reared by hand
Northamptonshire
bishop
over-large heap of manure
Herefordshire
buttons
sheep dung
Exmoor
caoirnein
globule of sheep dung
Gaelic
chook-chook-chook
call to chickens
Herefordshire
ciorag
pet sheep
Gaelic
clart
clot of wool or manure on an animal
Galloway
crew-yard
winter yard for cattle
Fenland
crottle
hare dung
hunting
dilly-dilly-dilly
call to ducks
Herefordshire
doofers
horse dung
Scots
dottle
sheep dung
Scots
eksben
thigh bone of a slaughtered animal
Shetland
faing
enclosure for holding sheep
Gaelic
flop
cow dung on pasture
Suffolk
fumes
deer dung
hunting
gibby
child’s name for a sheep
Exmoor
gimmer
ewe between the first and second shearing
northern England, Scotland
grit-ewe
ewe in lamb
Galloway
heft; hefting
herd of sheep that have learnt their particular boundaries and stick to those areas throughout their lives (thus doing away with the need for fences); the skill by which sheep are taught to do this
agricultural
hefting
skill by which sheep are familiarized with and thus stay within one territory on hills or fells, without resorting to fences or walls to pen them in
agricultural
hogg
,
hogget
young sheep of either sex from nine to eighteen months (until it cuts two teeth)
agricultural
ho-ho-ho
call to cattle
Herefordshire
hummer
gentle murmuring neigh a horse makes when it hears someone it likes approaching or the fodder being brought
Suffolk
kepp-kepp-kepp
call to poultry
Herefordshire
koop-koop-koop
call to horses
Herefordshire
krog
to crook or crouch when taking shelter from the weather under some high overhanging thing, as cattle do
Shetland
lamb-storms
storms near the vernal equinox, often hurtful to new-weaned lambs
East Anglia
langle
to tie the forelegs of an animal to prevent it leaping
Galloway
licking
last meal given to cattle before milking
Staffordshire
maxon
heap of dung
Sussex
oo
wool
Galloway
pirl
single globule of sheep’s dung
Shetland
plat
cow dung
Scots
riggwelter
sheep that has fallen onto its back and can’t get up because of the weight of its fleece
Cumbria
scalps
rinds of turnips, left by the sheep in the fields
Northamptonshire
scrave
bench for cleaning a fresh-killed pig
Essex
sharn
cow dung for spreading on the fields
Shetland
sheep-hurk
permanent winter fold
Northamptonshire
si-ew-si-ew-si-ew
call to pigs
Herefordshire
skelloping
of cattle: rushing around the field
Herefordshire
spancel
rope used to tie up goats
Northern Ireland
sussing
noise made by pigs when feeding
Suffolk
teg
sheep in its second year
Cumbria
ting
to cause a swarm of bees to settle by means of ‘tinging’ a house key against glass or metal
East Anglia
transhumance
seasonal movement of grazing animals to and from pasture
agricultural
turdstool
very substantial cowpat
south-west England
twinter
two-year-old cow, ox, horse or sheep
northern England, Scotland
ujller
unctuous filth that runs from a dunghill
Shetland
wigging
removal of wool from around a sheep’s eyes to prevent wool blindness
Cumbria

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