Landmarks (19 page)

Read Landmarks Online

Authors: Robert Macfarlane

BOOK: Landmarks
9.95Mb size Format: txt, pdf, ePub

Davidson’s writing often aspires
‘to capture the moment, lost and yet preserved forever’
. His sentences devote themselves to the record of volatile subjects – textures of weather, tones of colour, a fall of light
‘which dies even as
the hand attempts to catch its likeness’ – but they do so in foreknowledge of the failure of their task. The relationship between the fixed and the fugitive is at the heart of his work, and at the source of its melancholy. The inestimable value of the instant is proved by its perishability. The paragraphs of his essays, the verses of his poems: these act as what Thomas Browne in
Urne-Buriall
– his great 1658 meditation on corruption, pristination and retrieval – beautifully calls a
‘conservatorie’
. Yet none of these ‘conservatories’ is quite reliable, none fully sealed. All leak a little light. All are vulnerable to what Davidson calls
‘the predatory loss that shadows all human pleasure’
. Walking the coast of Arctic Finland in summer, he comes upon a cove:

basalt rocks bordering the Baltic
, with the dazzling track of the sun coming straight through the sandbar which sheltered the bay. A young man was swimming there, quietly and alone, swimming breaststroke with barely a ripple – until he moved out of the shadowed waters and his tow-fair head vanished in an instant into the brilliance of the high sun on the sea.

Here, the completion of the scene is also its annihilation: the swimmer cannot stay still, however tranquil his motion, and must move on from the shadows and into the irradiating ‘high sun’, which both illuminates and abolishes him.

Yes, melancholy steeps Davidson’s language, and melancholy
differs from grief in its chronic nature: it is an ache not a wound, it lies deeper down, is longer lasting, is lived with rather than died of. We might perhaps imagine melancholy hydrologically, as a kind of groundwater – seeping darkly onwards, occasionally surfacing as depression or anguish. It is clear, reading Davidson’s work, that he is someone for whom melancholy has been an enduring companion. When in an essay he writes that a
‘black dog flickers
in and out of the shadows at the edge of the lawns’, this is at once a Labrador and a metaphor. His writing has the power to strike its readers with sorrow also, which is among the reasons why, although his essays often emerge out of the impulse to account for art, they are art themselves.

‘We have gathered things
about us which are of the place where we live,’ Davidson remarks of the contents of his house and its garden. So many images in his work are of ‘gatherings’: gatherings of people who must perforce disperse, the gathering up of last things, lost things, late lustres. The
‘moony silver
’ of a ‘double-handed silver cup’ on a table ‘gathers the reflections of the garden and the summer and the bright sky into itself’. A bend in the stream
‘breaks forward into the sunlight
and the water draws the light into itself’. High tarns among peat and bracken
‘hold the dimming sky
’, ‘last light hangs reflected in mirrors inside the house’, a ‘pale yacht steers through the long dusk to far islands in the archipelago’. The act of ‘gleaning’ (a word which carries a shimmer of gleaming) occurs often in his writing – a fossicking after items of value, a gathering that is both a refusal of time’s claims and a dark counting of losses.

Davidson’s relationship with loss also explains the what-ifs, the returns-from-the-dead and the hypothetical dreams that recur in his
essays and poems. One of these, the finest of them, concerns Eric Ravilious, who disappeared in 1942 off the coast of Iceland while flying a search-and-rescue mission for another downed plane. Radar ceased to register the plane’s presence, radio contact was lost, and no trace was ever found of craft or crew.
‘All the years I have been writing
about Ravilious,’ Davidson recalls in a late essay:

I have occasionally dreamed about him: that he will come into the cold hall of a house which does not exist, a house smelling of coal fires; that he will begin to talk at once, shaking the Arctic Ocean off his dark hair as if it were only rainwater after all, as if he had been caught in the storm on a headland, benighted, laughing, painting out of doors.

Optical physics refers to a phenomenon known as the ‘duct’. A duct is an atmospheric structure, born of a thermal inversion, which takes the form of a channel that traps light rays within a few minutes of the arc of the astronomical horizon. Because the curvature performed within a thermal inversion is stronger than the curvature of the earth’s surface, light rays can be continuously guided along the duct, following the earth’s own curvature, without ever diffusing up into space. In theory, therefore, if your eyes were strong enough to see that far, a duct would allow you to gaze around the whole earth and witness your own back and shoulders turned towards you. The existence of ducts has been theorized since the eighteenth century, but their science became more fully understood during the Second World War, when radar operators began observing returns from objects far beyond the normal horizon-limit. I think of Davidson’s what-ifs as versions of the duct: strange spaces in which time’s
claims are stilled – and through which one might see so far into the future that it becomes the past.

~

Both Lopez and Davidson are north-minded – and both are topographic humanists. They see landscape not as a static diorama against which human action plays itself out, but rather as an active and shaping force in our imagination, our ethics, and our relations with each other and the world. In the work of both, place invests consciousness and geography is inseparable from morality. Throughout their writings recurs the idea that certain landscapes are capable of bestowing a grace upon those who pass through them or live within them. The stern curve of a mountain slope, a nest of wet stones on a beach, the bent trunk of a wind-blown tree: such forms can call out in us a goodness we might not have known we possessed.
‘In a winter-hammered landscape
,’ writes Lopez, ‘the light creates a feeling of compassion … it is possible to imagine a stifling ignorance falling away from us.’ The north is, to both men, especially powerful in this regard. Its severities bring us to witness the transgression of our own limits; its austere beauties induce both modesty and heart-lift.
‘The sharpness of the morning frost
had cleared the air into a magnifying lens,’ recalls Davidson of a pin-bright Cairngorm dawn. In wind-washed Arctic air that is
‘depthlessly clear’
, observes Lopez, both terrain and mind stand revealed.

Glossary VI
Northlands
Dusk, Dawn, Night and Light
aurora borealis
Northern Lights: the phenomenon whereby bright streamers and curtains of coloured (reddish, greenish) light dance and swirl in the atmosphere, caused by charged particles from the sun interacting with atoms of the upper atmosphere
meteorological
benighted
overtaken by darkness while walking or climbing
mountaineering
blinter
dazzle, but with a particular sense of cold dazzle: winter stars or ice splinters catching low midwinter sunlight
Scots
burr
mistiness over and around the moon, a moon-halo
East Anglia
dark hour
interval between the time of sufficient light to work or read by and the lighting of candles – therefore a time of social domestic conversation (‘We will talk that over at the dark hour’)
East Anglia
dimmity
twilight
Devon
doomfire
sunset-light which has the appearance of apocalypse to it (Gerard Manley Hopkins)
poetic
eawl-leet
twilight, dusk (literally ‘owl-light’)
north Lancashire
faoilleach
last three weeks of winter and first three weeks of spring
Gaelic
fireflacht
lightning without thunder; a flash of light which is seen in the sky, near the horizon, on autumn nights
Shetland
glouse
strong gleam of heat from sunshine
East Anglia
goldfoil
fork lightning that illuminates the sky with ‘zigzag dints and creasings and networks of small many-cornered facets’ (Gerard Manley Hopkins)
poetic
green flash
optical phenomenon occurring just after sunset or just before sunrise, in which a green spot is briefly visible above the upper rim of the sun’s disc
optics
grey
morning twilight, early dawn
Exmoor
grey-licht
dusk; shortly before dawn
Galloway
grimlins
night hours around midsummer when dusk blends into dawn and it is hard to say if day is ending or beginning
Orkney
haggering
distortion of objects by atmospheric refraction
North Sea coast
hjalta dance,
simmer kloks,
simmer ree,
simmermal brim,
simmermal ton,
titbow dance
different names for the peculiar dancing appearance of the light on the horizon, along the tops of the hills, which is seen in sunny summer weather
Shetland
hoarlight
‘burnished or embossed forehead of sky over the sundown, beautifully clear’ (Gerard Manley Hopkins)
poetic
hornlight
yellowish moonlight resembling the light emitted through a lantern’s horn window (Gerard Manley Hopkins)
poetic
mathionnettes
Northern Lights
Jèrriais (Jersey Norman)
mirkshut
twilight
Herefordshire
pink
of a candle, star, etc.: to shine with a faint or wavering light, to glimmer, to twinkle
southern England
plathadh grèine
sudden temporary glimpse of the sun between passing clouds
Gaelic
shepherd’s lamp
first star that rises after sunset (John Clare)
Cambridgeshire, Northamptonshire
shivelights
splinters of light (Gerard Manley Hopkins)
poetic
shreep
of mist: to clear away partially
East Anglia
Frost and Cold
aingealach
acute numbness in great frost
Gaelic
atteri
bitterly cold
Shetland
clumst
benumbed with cold
northern England
crool
to huddle miserably together from cold
Herefordshire
dis
not able to stand cold well
Gaelic
dùbhlachd
depth of winter
Gaelic
finger-cold
cold that is not bitter, but enough to make the fingers tingle
Kent
fresh
of weather: the breaking of a spell of frost
Scots
geal-cauld
ice-cold
Scots
glince
,
glincey
slippery, icy
Kent
haari
cold that is hard and piercing
Shetland
horripilation
erection of the hairs on the skin by contraction of the cutaneous muscles, often caused by cold
medical
hovvery
,
kivvery
very shivery, numb with cold
Kent
hussy
to chafe or rub the hands when they are cold
Kent
jeel
frost
Scots
knit up
of a bird: to fluff up feathers as a response to cold
Herefordshire
kreemee
shivery with cold
Exmoor
nurped
freezing
Herefordshire
peart
cold
Devon
pinjy
cold
Galloway
pinnish
to shrink from the effect of cold
Shetland
plucky
of earth: broken and rigid following a hard frost
Essex
skinner
cold day
North Sea coast
stirn
to tremble from the effect of cold
Shetland
wurr
hoar frost
Herefordshire
yark
cold; wild, stormy weather
Exmoor
Wind, Storm and Cloud
aigrish
of wind: sharp, cutting
Essex
black-east, black-easter
cold, dry east wind
Galloway
blackthorn winter
winter that turns very cold late in the season
Herefordshire
blae
of wind: cold, cutting, harsh
Galloway
boff
to blow back: used only of wind blowing smoke back down a chimney
Staffordshire
bright-borough
area of the night sky thickly strewn with stars (Gerard Manley Hopkins)
poetic
bruach
ring or halo around the moon, presaging unsettled weather
Irish
carry
drift or movement of clouds
English
cherribim
sky
Anglo-Romani
ciabhar
slight breeze, just enough to stir the hair
Gaelic
dim-wood
area of the night sky where few stars can be seen (Gerard Manley Hopkins)
poetic
dintless
of a sky: cloudless
poetic
duvla’s pani
rainbow
Anglo-Romani
eeroch
pains thought to be caused by the east wind in winter
Northern Ireland
fell
sudden drop in wind
Galloway
flam
sudden light breeze
North Sea coast
flan
sudden gust of wind
Shetland
flinchin
deceitful promise of better weather
Scots
fuaradh-froise
cool breeze preceding a rain-shower
Gaelic
garbhshíon
unseasonably cold and windy weather
Irish
greann-gaoth
piercing wind
Gaelic
gurl
howl of the wind
Scots
gurley
cold, threatening wind
Galloway
gussock
strong and sudden gust of wind
East Anglia
hefty
of weather: rough, boisterous, wild
Ireland
hot-spong
sudden power of heat felt when the sun comes from under a wind-shifted cloud
East Anglia
huffling
wind blowing up in sudden gusts
Exmoor
hulder
the roar in the air after a great noise (e.g. thunder)
Exmoor
katabatic
wind that blows from high ground to low ground, its force being aided by gravity; sometimes known as a ‘fall wind’
meteorological
lambin’ storm
gale which usually happens in mid March
North Sea coast
lythe
calm or absence of wind
Fenland
mackerel-sky
sky mottled with light, striped cirrus clouds
Exmoor
meal-drift
high, wispy clouds
poetic
moor-gallop
wind and rain moving across high ground
Cornwall, Cumbria
Noah’s ark
cloud that widens upwards from the horizon, in the shape of an ark, and signals an approaching storm
Essex
noctilucent cloud
high and rare cloud type (literally ‘night-shining’) that drifts in the upper atmosphere, is made of ice crystals and is so high as to be invisible except when, after sunset around midsummer, ‘the tilt of the earth allows it to catch the last light of the sun’ (Amy Liptrot)
meteorological
oiteag
wisp of wind
Gaelic
osag
gust of wind
Gaelic
piner
penetrating, cold south-easterly wind
North Sea coast
roarie-bummlers
fast-moving storm clouds (literally ‘noisy blunderers’)
Scots
shepherd’s flock
white fleecy clouds indicating fine weather
Suffolk
skub
hazy clouds driven by the wind
Shetland
thraw
of sky, sea or wind: threatening
Galloway
twitchy
of wind: blowing unsteadily
East Anglia
ultaichean
strong, rolling gusts of wind
Hebridean Gaelic
up’tak
rising of the wind, usually signalling a fresh outbreak of bad weather
Shetland
urp
cloud; ‘urpy’ means cloudy with very large clouds
Kent
wadder-head
clouds standing in columns or streaks from the horizon upwards
Shetland
water-carts
small clouds
Suffolk
whiffle
of a wind: to come in unpredictable gusts
Kent
wimpling
rippling motion induced in a bird’s wing feathers by the passage of wind (Gerard Manley Hopkins)
poetic
windin’
rooks circling in the air and thereby indicating stormy weather
Suffolk

Other books

Moondrops (Love Letters) by Leone, Sarita
Tarot's Touch by L.M. Somerton
The Master of Phoenix Hall by Jennifer Wilde
Trapped by Illyria, Selena
White Fangs by Christopher Golden, Tim Lebbon
Chinese Ghost Stories by Lafcadio Hearn