Authors: Robert Macfarlane
Davidson’s writing often aspires
‘to capture the moment, lost and yet preserved forever’
. His sentences devote themselves to the record of volatile subjects – textures of weather, tones of colour, a fall of light
‘which dies even as
the hand attempts to catch its likeness’ – but they do so in foreknowledge of the failure of their task. The relationship between the fixed and the fugitive is at the heart of his work, and at the source of its melancholy. The inestimable value of the instant is proved by its perishability. The paragraphs of his essays, the verses of his poems: these act as what Thomas Browne in
Urne-Buriall
– his great 1658 meditation on corruption, pristination and retrieval – beautifully calls a
‘conservatorie’
. Yet none of these ‘conservatories’ is quite reliable, none fully sealed. All leak a little light. All are vulnerable to what Davidson calls
‘the predatory loss that shadows all human pleasure’
. Walking the coast of Arctic Finland in summer, he comes upon a cove:
basalt rocks bordering the Baltic
, with the dazzling track of the sun coming straight through the sandbar which sheltered the bay. A young man was swimming there, quietly and alone, swimming breaststroke with barely a ripple – until he moved out of the shadowed waters and his tow-fair head vanished in an instant into the brilliance of the high sun on the sea.
Here, the completion of the scene is also its annihilation: the swimmer cannot stay still, however tranquil his motion, and must move on from the shadows and into the irradiating ‘high sun’, which both illuminates and abolishes him.
Yes, melancholy steeps Davidson’s language, and melancholy
differs from grief in its chronic nature: it is an ache not a wound, it lies deeper down, is longer lasting, is lived with rather than died of. We might perhaps imagine melancholy hydrologically, as a kind of groundwater – seeping darkly onwards, occasionally surfacing as depression or anguish. It is clear, reading Davidson’s work, that he is someone for whom melancholy has been an enduring companion. When in an essay he writes that a
‘black dog flickers
in and out of the shadows at the edge of the lawns’, this is at once a Labrador and a metaphor. His writing has the power to strike its readers with sorrow also, which is among the reasons why, although his essays often emerge out of the impulse to account for art, they are art themselves.
‘We have gathered things
about us which are of the place where we live,’ Davidson remarks of the contents of his house and its garden. So many images in his work are of ‘gatherings’: gatherings of people who must perforce disperse, the gathering up of last things, lost things, late lustres. The
‘moony silver
’ of a ‘double-handed silver cup’ on a table ‘gathers the reflections of the garden and the summer and the bright sky into itself’. A bend in the stream
‘breaks forward into the sunlight
and the water draws the light into itself’. High tarns among peat and bracken
‘hold the dimming sky
’, ‘last light hangs reflected in mirrors inside the house’, a ‘pale yacht steers through the long dusk to far islands in the archipelago’. The act of ‘gleaning’ (a word which carries a shimmer of gleaming) occurs often in his writing – a fossicking after items of value, a gathering that is both a refusal of time’s claims and a dark counting of losses.
Davidson’s relationship with loss also explains the what-ifs, the returns-from-the-dead and the hypothetical dreams that recur in his
essays and poems. One of these, the finest of them, concerns Eric Ravilious, who disappeared in 1942 off the coast of Iceland while flying a search-and-rescue mission for another downed plane. Radar ceased to register the plane’s presence, radio contact was lost, and no trace was ever found of craft or crew.
‘All the years I have been writing
about Ravilious,’ Davidson recalls in a late essay:
I have occasionally dreamed about him: that he will come into the cold hall of a house which does not exist, a house smelling of coal fires; that he will begin to talk at once, shaking the Arctic Ocean off his dark hair as if it were only rainwater after all, as if he had been caught in the storm on a headland, benighted, laughing, painting out of doors.
Optical physics refers to a phenomenon known as the ‘duct’. A duct is an atmospheric structure, born of a thermal inversion, which takes the form of a channel that traps light rays within a few minutes of the arc of the astronomical horizon. Because the curvature performed within a thermal inversion is stronger than the curvature of the earth’s surface, light rays can be continuously guided along the duct, following the earth’s own curvature, without ever diffusing up into space. In theory, therefore, if your eyes were strong enough to see that far, a duct would allow you to gaze around the whole earth and witness your own back and shoulders turned towards you. The existence of ducts has been theorized since the eighteenth century, but their science became more fully understood during the Second World War, when radar operators began observing returns from objects far beyond the normal horizon-limit. I think of Davidson’s what-ifs as versions of the duct: strange spaces in which time’s
claims are stilled – and through which one might see so far into the future that it becomes the past.
~
Both Lopez and Davidson are north-minded – and both are topographic humanists. They see landscape not as a static diorama against which human action plays itself out, but rather as an active and shaping force in our imagination, our ethics, and our relations with each other and the world. In the work of both, place invests consciousness and geography is inseparable from morality. Throughout their writings recurs the idea that certain landscapes are capable of bestowing a grace upon those who pass through them or live within them. The stern curve of a mountain slope, a nest of wet stones on a beach, the bent trunk of a wind-blown tree: such forms can call out in us a goodness we might not have known we possessed.
‘In a winter-hammered landscape
,’ writes Lopez, ‘the light creates a feeling of compassion … it is possible to imagine a stifling ignorance falling away from us.’ The north is, to both men, especially powerful in this regard. Its severities bring us to witness the transgression of our own limits; its austere beauties induce both modesty and heart-lift.
‘The sharpness of the morning frost
had cleared the air into a magnifying lens,’ recalls Davidson of a pin-bright Cairngorm dawn. In wind-washed Arctic air that is
‘depthlessly clear’
, observes Lopez, both terrain and mind stand revealed.
aurora borealis | Northern Lights: the phenomenon whereby bright streamers and curtains of coloured (reddish, greenish) light dance and swirl in the atmosphere, caused by charged particles from the sun interacting with atoms of the upper atmosphere meteorological |
benighted | overtaken by darkness while walking or climbing mountaineering |
blinter | dazzle, but with a particular sense of cold dazzle: winter stars or ice splinters catching low midwinter sunlight Scots |
burr | mistiness over and around the moon, a moon-halo East Anglia |
dark hour | interval between the time of sufficient light to work or read by and the lighting of candles – therefore a time of social domestic conversation (‘We will talk that over at the dark hour’) East Anglia |
dimmity | twilight Devon |
doomfire | sunset-light which has the appearance of apocalypse to it (Gerard Manley Hopkins) poetic |
eawl-leet | twilight, dusk (literally ‘owl-light’) north Lancashire |
faoilleach | last three weeks of winter and first three weeks of spring Gaelic |
fireflacht | lightning without thunder; a flash of light which is seen in the sky, near the horizon, on autumn nights Shetland |
glouse | strong gleam of heat from sunshine East Anglia |
goldfoil | fork lightning that illuminates the sky with ‘zigzag dints and creasings and networks of small many-cornered facets’ (Gerard Manley Hopkins) poetic |
green flash | optical phenomenon occurring just after sunset or just before sunrise, in which a green spot is briefly visible above the upper rim of the sun’s disc optics |
grey | morning twilight, early dawn Exmoor |
grey-licht | dusk; shortly before dawn Galloway |
grimlins | night hours around midsummer when dusk blends into dawn and it is hard to say if day is ending or beginning Orkney |
haggering | distortion of objects by atmospheric refraction North Sea coast |
hjalta dance, simmer kloks, simmer ree, simmermal brim, simmermal ton, titbow dance | different names for the peculiar dancing appearance of the light on the horizon, along the tops of the hills, which is seen in sunny summer weather Shetland |
hoarlight | ‘burnished or embossed forehead of sky over the sundown, beautifully clear’ (Gerard Manley Hopkins) poetic |
hornlight | yellowish moonlight resembling the light emitted through a lantern’s horn window (Gerard Manley Hopkins) poetic |
mathionnettes | Northern Lights Jèrriais (Jersey Norman) |
mirkshut | twilight Herefordshire |
pink | of a candle, star, etc.: to shine with a faint or wavering light, to glimmer, to twinkle southern England |
plathadh grèine | sudden temporary glimpse of the sun between passing clouds Gaelic |
shepherd’s lamp | first star that rises after sunset (John Clare) Cambridgeshire, Northamptonshire |
shivelights | splinters of light (Gerard Manley Hopkins) poetic |
shreep | of mist: to clear away partially East Anglia |
aingealach | acute numbness in great frost Gaelic |
atteri | bitterly cold Shetland |
clumst | benumbed with cold northern England |
crool | to huddle miserably together from cold Herefordshire |
dis | not able to stand cold well Gaelic |
dùbhlachd | depth of winter Gaelic |
finger-cold | cold that is not bitter, but enough to make the fingers tingle Kent |
fresh | of weather: the breaking of a spell of frost Scots |
geal-cauld | ice-cold Scots |
glince , glincey | slippery, icy Kent |
haari | cold that is hard and piercing Shetland |
horripilation | erection of the hairs on the skin by contraction of the cutaneous muscles, often caused by cold medical |
hovvery , kivvery | very shivery, numb with cold Kent |
hussy | to chafe or rub the hands when they are cold Kent |
jeel | frost Scots |
knit up | of a bird: to fluff up feathers as a response to cold Herefordshire |
kreemee | shivery with cold Exmoor |
nurped | freezing Herefordshire |
peart | cold Devon |
pinjy | cold Galloway |
pinnish | to shrink from the effect of cold Shetland |
plucky | of earth: broken and rigid following a hard frost Essex |
skinner | cold day North Sea coast |
stirn | to tremble from the effect of cold Shetland |
wurr | hoar frost Herefordshire |
yark | cold; wild, stormy weather Exmoor |
aigrish | of wind: sharp, cutting Essex |
black-east, black-easter | cold, dry east wind Galloway |
blackthorn winter | winter that turns very cold late in the season Herefordshire |
blae | of wind: cold, cutting, harsh Galloway |
boff | to blow back: used only of wind blowing smoke back down a chimney Staffordshire |
bright-borough | area of the night sky thickly strewn with stars (Gerard Manley Hopkins) poetic |
bruach | ring or halo around the moon, presaging unsettled weather Irish |
carry | drift or movement of clouds English |
cherribim | sky Anglo-Romani |
ciabhar | slight breeze, just enough to stir the hair Gaelic |
dim-wood | area of the night sky where few stars can be seen (Gerard Manley Hopkins) poetic |
dintless | of a sky: cloudless poetic |
duvla’s pani | rainbow Anglo-Romani |
eeroch | pains thought to be caused by the east wind in winter Northern Ireland |
fell | sudden drop in wind Galloway |
flam | sudden light breeze North Sea coast |
flan | sudden gust of wind Shetland |
flinchin | deceitful promise of better weather Scots |
fuaradh-froise | cool breeze preceding a rain-shower Gaelic |
garbhshíon | unseasonably cold and windy weather Irish |
greann-gaoth | piercing wind Gaelic |
gurl | howl of the wind Scots |
gurley | cold, threatening wind Galloway |
gussock | strong and sudden gust of wind East Anglia |
hefty | of weather: rough, boisterous, wild Ireland |
hot-spong | sudden power of heat felt when the sun comes from under a wind-shifted cloud East Anglia |
huffling | wind blowing up in sudden gusts Exmoor |
hulder | the roar in the air after a great noise (e.g. thunder) Exmoor |
katabatic | wind that blows from high ground to low ground, its force being aided by gravity; sometimes known as a ‘fall wind’ meteorological |
lambin’ storm | gale which usually happens in mid March North Sea coast |
lythe | calm or absence of wind Fenland |
mackerel-sky | sky mottled with light, striped cirrus clouds Exmoor |
meal-drift | high, wispy clouds poetic |
moor-gallop | wind and rain moving across high ground Cornwall, Cumbria |
Noah’s ark | cloud that widens upwards from the horizon, in the shape of an ark, and signals an approaching storm Essex |
noctilucent cloud | high and rare cloud type (literally ‘night-shining’) that drifts in the upper atmosphere, is made of ice crystals and is so high as to be invisible except when, after sunset around midsummer, ‘the tilt of the earth allows it to catch the last light of the sun’ (Amy Liptrot) meteorological |
oiteag | wisp of wind Gaelic |
osag | gust of wind Gaelic |
piner | penetrating, cold south-easterly wind North Sea coast |
roarie-bummlers | fast-moving storm clouds (literally ‘noisy blunderers’) Scots |
shepherd’s flock | white fleecy clouds indicating fine weather Suffolk |
skub | hazy clouds driven by the wind Shetland |
thraw | of sky, sea or wind: threatening Galloway |
twitchy | of wind: blowing unsteadily East Anglia |
ultaichean | strong, rolling gusts of wind Hebridean Gaelic |
up’tak | rising of the wind, usually signalling a fresh outbreak of bad weather Shetland |
urp | cloud; ‘urpy’ means cloudy with very large clouds Kent |
wadder-head | clouds standing in columns or streaks from the horizon upwards Shetland |
water-carts | small clouds Suffolk |
whiffle | of a wind: to come in unpredictable gusts Kent |
wimpling | rippling motion induced in a bird’s wing feathers by the passage of wind (Gerard Manley Hopkins) poetic |
windin’ | rooks circling in the air and thereby indicating stormy weather Suffolk |