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Authors: Robert Macfarlane

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~

The Peregrine
is not a book about watching a falcon but a book about becoming a falcon. In the opening pages, Baker sets out his manifesto of pursuit:

Wherever he goes
, this winter, I will follow him. I will share the fear, and the exaltation, and the boredom, of the hunting life. I will follow him till my predatory human shape no longer darkens in terror the shaken kaleidoscope of colour that stains the deep fovea of his brilliant eye. My pagan head shall sink into the winter land, and there be purified.

There, in four eldritch sentences, is the book’s chill heart. Baker hopes that, through a prolonged and ‘purified’ concentration upon the peregrine, he might be able to escape his ‘human shape’ and abscond into the ‘brilliant’ wildness of the bird.

He begins his ‘hunting life’ by learning to track his predatory prey. Peregrines can often fly so fast, and at such altitude, that to the human eye – especially the myopic human eye – they are invisible from the ground. But Baker discovers that they can be located by the disturbance they create among other birds, almost as the position of an invisible plane can be told from its contrail:
‘Evanescent as flame
,’ he writes on 7 October, ‘peregrines sear across the cold sky and are gone, leaving no sign in the blue haze above. But in the lower air a wake of birds trails back, and rises upward through the white helix of the gulls.’

As he improves his tracking skills, so Baker draws closer to the bird, and he begins to seek contact with it, through ritual mimicry of its behaviour and habits (a method that has affinities with those of revolutionary mid-twentieth-century ethologists such as Frank Fraser Darling and Konrad Lorenz). One November day he rests his hand on the grass where a peregrine has recently come to ground, and experiences
‘a strong feeling of proximity, identification’
. By December he has gone fully feral. Crossing a field one afternoon, he sees feathers blowing in the wind:

The body of a woodpigeon
lay breast upward on a mass of soft white feathers. The head had been eaten … The bones were still dark red, the blood still wet.

I found myself crouching over the kill, like a mantling hawk. My eyes turned quickly about, alert for the walking heads of men. Unconsciously I was imitating the movements of a hawk, as in some primitive ritual; the hunter becoming the thing he hunts … We live, in these days in the open, the same ecstatic fearful life. We shun men.

The pronouns tell the story – ‘I’ turns into ‘we’; repetition becomes ritual; human dissolves into falcon. Allsop understood this drive for transformation to be the book’s central psychodrama:
‘The [book’s] strange and awful grip
,’ he wrote, ‘is in the author’s wrestling to be rid of his humanness, to enter the hawk’s feathers, skin and spirit.’

Why might a man want to become a bird? Baker’s illness, and the pained discomfort of his daily life, bear upon this question. The peregrines – in their speed and freedom of manoeuvre, with their fabulous vision – idealized the physical abilities of which the earthbound, joint-crabbed, eye-dimmed Baker had been deprived. One can hear a hint of envy when, one November, Baker notes seeing a
peregrine moving with
‘his usual loose-limbed panache’
. The falcons embody all that is unavailable to him, and so they become first his prosthesis and then his totem:
‘the hunter becoming the thing he hunts’
.

Baker was also suffering from intense species shame. The peregrines of Europe and North America were, at the time he wrote, suffering severe population decline. In 1962 Rachel Carson had alerted the world to the calamitous effects of pesticides on bird populations in
Silent Spring
. A year later
a British raptor specialist called Derek Ratcliffe had published a landmark paper
revealing the terrible impact of agrichemicals upon peregrine numbers in Britain. Pesticide use, notably DDT, was leading to an aggregation of toxins in raptor prey species, which in turn was causing eggshell thinning and nesting failure in the falcons. Their breeding success rate plummeted, with chicks typically dying in the egg. In 1939, Ratcliffe noted, there were 700 pairs of peregrines in Britain. A 1962 survey showed a decline to under half of this number, with only 68 pairs appearing to have reared chicks successfully. Baker was aware of both Ratcliffe and Carson’s work; as was J. G. Ballard, whose work Baker admired, and whose story ‘Storm-bird, Storm-dreamer’ (1966) imagines a future in which pesticide overuse has caused massive growth in the bird species of the country, who then begin coordinated attacks on the English crop-fields in an attempt to feed their vast hungers. The south-east English coastline becomes a militarized zone, with anti-aircraft guns mounted on barges, there to resist aerial attacks not by Heinkels but by hawks.

In the mid 1960s, as he laboured over his drafts of
The Peregrine
, it must have seemed likely to Baker that the peregrine would vanish from southern England, extinguished by what he called
‘the filthy, insidious pollen of farm chemicals’
. Over a decade he had
watched the dwindling of peregrine numbers:
‘Few winter in England
now, fewer nest here … the ancient eyries are dying.’ Thus the atmosphere of requiem that prevails in
The Peregrine
: a sadness that things should be this way, mixed with a disbelief that they might be changed. Occasionally, the elegiac tone flares into anger. Out walking on 24 December, a day of cusps and little light, Baker finds a near-dead heron lying in a stubble field. Its wings are frozen to the ground, but in a ghastly thwarted escape, it tries to fly off:

As I approached I could see
its whole body craving into flight. But it could not fly. I gave it peace, and saw the agonised sunlight of its eyes slowly heal with cloud.

No pain, no death, is more terrible to a wild creature than its fear of man … A poisoned crow, gaping and helplessly floundering in the grass, bright yellow foam bubbling from its throat, will dash itself up again and again on to the descending wall of air, if you try to catch it. A rabbit, inflated and foul with myxomatosis … will feel the vibration of your footstep and will look for you with bulging, sightless eyes.

We are the killers. We stink of death. We carry it with us. It sticks to us like frost. We cannot tear it away.

‘We stink of death. We carry it with us.’ By this point in
The Peregrine
, we understand these to be the words of a man who feels himself stricken with disease – and of a man appalled to belong to his own kind. He wants to resign his humanity, and to partake of both the far-sight and the guiltless murders of the falcon.

~

Towards the end of the afternoon in the archive, I took Baker’s telescopes and binoculars one by one to the window. There was a view of beech trees, concrete buildings, and a lecture hall with a curved zinc roof. I tried out each instrument in turn. When I extended the Steward scope, there was an ominous rattle from its interior. I held it to my eye and stared into milk. The eyepiece was misty, glaucous. I tried the other telescope, brass and heavy. But it was missing its front lens, and there was only blackness to be seen, with a tiny circle of light at its centre.

Both pairs of binoculars, though, were scratched but functioning. Through the Mirakels I tracked wood pigeons on their
clap-clap-glide
crossings of the campus sky, passing over the green-gold of late-season oaks. Through the Mirandas I watched a wagtail figure-eighting for flies above the zinc of the lecture hall.

Binocular vision is a peculiarly exclusive form of looking. It draws a circle around the focused-on object and shuts out the world’s generous remainder. What binoculars grant you in focus and reach, they deny you in periphery. To view an object through them is to see it in crisp isolation, encircled by blackness – as though at the end of a tunnel. They permit a lucidity of view but enforce a denial of context, and as such they seemed to me then the perfect emblem of Baker’s own intense, and intensely limited, vision. I thought of him out in the field towards the end of his decade of hedge-haunting and hawk-hunting; how difficult it must have become to hold the binoculars, as his finger joints thickened and fused, and his tendons tightened.

The Peregrine
, a record of obsession, has itself in turn provoked obsessions. It is a book which sets the mind aloft and holds it there. In the archive I found scores of admiring letters written to Baker by readers. Some wished to acquire his supernatural abilities as a
tracker:
‘I hope to have the good fortune
to see Peregrine somewhere in the [Blackwater] estuary on Thursday Feb 9th or Friday Feb 10th,’ wrote one – as if Baker the magus might magic these wild birds up to order. A student of mine was so inspired by
The Peregrine
’s vision of human irresponsibility that she became an eco-activist, paddling kayaks up rivers to gain illegal access to coal-fired power stations. Several years ago I came to know a young musician living a marginal life in a south London squat and performing as the front man for a hardcore punk-rock band. He was a talented and troubled person, for whom ‘nature’ as conventionally experienced was irrelevant, tending to incomprehensible. But he had found his way to
The Peregrine
, and the book’s dark fury spoke to him. He read it repeatedly, and began to mimic Baker’s mimicry of the falcons: once, on a London street outside a club, he demonstrated the action of ‘mantling’ – when a peregrine spreads its wings, fans its tail and arches over its prey to hide it from other predators. He and I collaborated on a project one summer and made plans to work together again. Then that December he died of a heroin overdose, aged twenty-three. He was lowered into the cold hard earth of a Cornish field a few days before Christmas, with the cars of his friends pulled up around the grave, their stereos blasting out his music in tribute. Buried with him was a copy of the book he revered above all others.

I am another of those obsessives, differently stricken, unable to free myself from
The Peregrine
’s grip. As Nan changed the way I see mountains, so Baker changed the way I see coasts and skies. I have written often about the book, and followed Baker’s own wanderings through Essex as best I have been able to reconstruct them: hunting the hunter’s huntings. The opening sentences of a book of mine called
The Wild Places
knowingly invoke the opening sentences of
The Peregrine
; Baker is present through the whole work, his style stooped into its prose.

When I have seen peregrines I have seen them, or I remember them, at least partly in Baker’s language. A falcon up at the Mare’s Tail waterfall in the Scottish Borders,
riding along the rim of the sky in a tremendous serration of rebounding dives and ascensions
, then dipping down in hooping dive to its nest on the cliffs of the cataract. A breeding pair high above a crag in misty sunlight on the side of long Loch Ericht in the Central Highlands, heard first, giving
high, husky muffled calls, keerk, keerk, keerk, keerk, keerk, sharp-edged and barbarous
, then appearing as
dark crossbow shapes
. And then the peregrine that morning, before leaving for the archive, first
a tremor at the edge of vision
, then at last
sculling away with quick wing flicks
.

The month I finished writing this chapter, eight months after I had been to the archive, a pair of peregrines took up residence on the great brown brick tower of the university library in Cambridge. They made their nest on a ledge high on the tower’s south side, in front of one of the small windows that let light into the dim miles of book-stacks. A friend told me one afternoon that they had arrived, and gave me directions to the window: South Front Floor 6, Case Number 42. I went the next morning, rising up the tower in a cranky lift, and approaching the window cautiously. I could see feather fluff and guano; then, tucked in tight to the retaining tiles, a clutch of three eggs, brick-red and black-flecked. And suddenly I stepped back, because she was there also,
scything in and up
to the edge of the ledge and perching, the feathers of her piebald breast
rippled by the wind
, her yellow feet gripping the ledge,
the ridged knuckles tense, and big with muscle
, and her great
black eyes looking into mine
, or rather through me,
as though they see something beyond me from which they cannot look away
.

Glossary IV
Coastlands
Bays, Channels and Inlets
barra
channel cut in a rocky shore for boats to enter
Manx
caol
narrow channel between two islands, or between an island and the mainland
Gaelic
caul
embankment built across a river or an inlet of the sea to divert water
Galloway
cilan
small inlet, creek (place-name element)
Welsh
crenulate
of a shoreline: having many small irregular bays formed by the action of waves on softer rock
geographical
firth
arm of the sea; estuary
Scots
gat
gap in an offshore sandbank
East Anglia
geo
,
gjo
coastal cleft; narrow, rocky-sided bay
Gaelic, especially Orkney, Outer Hebrides, Shetland
gunk-hole
small narrow channel that is dangerous to navigate, owing to current and to numerous rocks and ledges
nautical
hope
inlet, small bay, haven
south-east England
laimrig
clear channel between rocks; marine landing place
Gaelic
mijn
mouth of a
voe
Shetland
oyce
lagoon formed where a bar of shingle has been thrown up across the head of a bay
Orkney, Shetland
pill
tidal creek or stream
south-west England
sump
muddy shallow near the mouth of a creek, offering anchorage
Kent
swatch
passage or channel of water lying between sandbanks, or between a sandbank and the shore
East Anglia
vaddel
gulf that fills and empties with the flowing and ebbing of the sea, commonly at the head of a
voe
Shetland
voe
inlet or arm of the sea
Shetland
wik
little open bay
Shetland
zawn
vertical fissure or cave cut by wave action into a coastal cliff
Cornwall
Cliffs, Headlands and Defences
bill
promontory
southern England
cadha
way up the ragged face of a cliff
Gaelic
dragon’s teeth
rows of concrete blocks or pyramidal shapes laid on beaches and tidal flats to prevent tanks from landing and becoming operational
military
gabion
large wire or netting baskets containing earth or rubble to provide protection or reinforcing against military attack or coastal erosion
conservation, military
heuch
cliff above water
Scots
neap
,
noup
lofty headland dropping steeply into the sea
Shetland
ness
promontory, cape or headland
North Sea coast
revetment
retaining wall, usually sloping: in military terms to defend a position or vulnerable site; in coastal management to protect the shoreline against erosion
conservation, military
rhu
,
roo
headland
Galloway
rock armour
large stones, boulders or concrete rubble used to defend a sea wall, usually in the form of a
revetment
conservation
scon
footway linking beach and cliff-top
Suffolk
squilving-ground
land which slants towards the sea at the edge of a cliff
Exmoor
tairbeart
isthmus between two sea lochs
Gaelic
wannen-place
‘one-end place’, such as a projecting seaside resort only accessible from one direction
Suffolk
Currents, Waves and Tides
adnasjur
large wave or waves, coming after a succession of lesser ones
Shetland
af’luva
,
af’rug
reflex of a wave after it has struck the shore
Shetland
ar’ris
last weak movements of a tide before still water
Shetland
bòc-thonnach
covered with swelling waves
Gaelic
bod
jumping motion of waves
Shetland
bore
,
eagre
tide-wave of extraordinary height, usually caused by the rushing of the tide up a narrowing estuary
hydrological
bretsh
breaking of waves on a rocky shore
Shetland
cockling
of a sea: jerked up into short waves by contrary currents
Lancashire
faks
to swell up with a threatening motion without breaking, as a wave
Shetland
ootrogue
undercurrent from shore, taking sand out with it
North Sea coast
pirr
light breath of wind, such as will make a cat’s paw on the water; a light breeze
Shetland
roost
turbulent tidal race formed by the meeting of conflicting currents
Orkney, Shetland
saatbrak
foam and spray of the surge
Shetland
smooth
calm sea, usually around the sixth or seventh wave in a sequence, used to launch and beach longshore boats
Suffolk
sruthladh
violent motion of waves advancing upon and receding from the shore
Gaelic
Fishing and Boats
an’du
to keep a boat in position by rowing gently against the tide
Shetland
back fu’
wind on the wrong side of the sail
North Sea coast
bak’flan
sudden gust of wind which, by mischance, strikes a boat’s sail on the back side (i.e. the lee side) and so endangers the boat
Shetland
berth
small area of beach on which a longshoreman kept his boats
Suffolk
bichter
stone used as an anchor to long lines
Shetland
bill
bubble-like ripple made by the stroke of an oar in water
Shetland
blash
,
plash
to hit the water with an oar (or similar) in order to disturb and drive fish when inshore, netting for salmon
North Sea coast
blaze
to take salmon by striking them at night, by torchlight, with a three-pronged spear
North Sea coast
breast mark
at sea, a landmark (church, lighthouse, coastguard buildings) sighted from abeam
Suffolk
broached
knocked sideways by the sea
North Sea coast
cade
measure of herrings or sprats
Suffolk
caraidh
fish-trap with low walls
Gaelic
comharran
twin markings on land used to give an offshore boat its location
Gaelic
dabba
stick with point on end used by children to catch flatfish on sand
North Sea coast
dan
flag on lobster pot
Cornwall
dopper
oilskin
North Sea coast
eela
fishing with a rod from a boat anchored in shallow water near the land
Shetland
fendi
capable of fending off the waves; having the qualities of a good sea boat
Shetland
gansey
fisherman’s traditional woollen sweater, usually navy blue and patterned, with designs varying from family to family and area to area
North Sea coast, Scotland
gear
lobster pots
Cornwall
girt
to be caught by a powerful tide or surge of water while in a boat or craft
south-east England
glister
squall, squally weather
Manx
griping
groping at arm’s length in the soft mud of the tidal streams for flounders and eels
Kent
gyte
fish-slime
North Sea coast
herengro matcho
crab
Anglo-Romani
holly
to leave lobsters in boxes in the sea for a period of time
North Sea coast
jip
to gut herrings
Suffolk
kep-shite
skua, so called because it chases other birds until they drop their food, thought by fishermen to be droppings
North Sea coast
limmitter
lobster with one claw missing
North Sea coast
long-mark
landmark sighted from ahead
Suffolk
luff
to sail nearer to the wind
nautical
matchkani gav
Yarmouth (literally ‘fish village’, from the European Romani words
macho
, ‘fish’, and
gav
, ‘village’)
Anglo-Romani
meith
landmark used by sailors
Scots
pallag
lump on a hill as seen from the sea, used as a fishing mark in association with other objects
Manx
plouncing
beating the surface of the water of dykes in marshlands with leafy branches to drive fish along into nets
Suffolk
skurr
fishing ground near the shore with a hard bottom
Shetland
slogger
sucking sound made by waves against a ship’s side (Gerard Manley Hopkins)
poetic
soft
general term for a fishing ground with a sandy bottom
North Sea coast
swad
fine green weed that grows on ropes, etc.
North Sea coast
thwart
seat across a boat
nautical
tommy
small crab, thrown back
North Sea coast
trim
the most advantageous set of a ship in the water, and/or the most advantageous adjustment of a ship’s sails
nautical
wow-tin
fisherman’s lunch tin
North Sea coast
Lights, Hazes, Mists and Fogs
aggy-jaggers
mist that forms along the sea edge
north Kent coast
bar’ber
haze which rises from the surface of sea water when the air is very cold
Shetland
briming
marine phosphorescence
Cornwall
brim’skud
smoke-like haze which rises from the breaking waves
Shetland
fret
mist or fog coming in from the sea
eastern and southern England
glimro
phosphorescent glimmer
Orkney
haar
misty rain that drifts in from the sea, often reaching several miles inland
Cornwall, north-east England, eastern Scotland
hag
light said to appear at night on horses’ manes and men’s hair
nautical
maril’d
sparkling luminous substance seen in the sea on autumn nights, and on fish in the dark
Shetland
milk
sea water made phosphorescent by shoals of herring
Suffolk
rime
fog coming in from the sea; also hoar frost
Galloway
rouk
sea mist
Scots
siaban
sand-blow and sea-froth
Gaelic
sun-scald
patch of bright sunlight on the surface of water
Sussex
water-burn
marine phosphorescence
Kent
woor
low-hanging sea mist that dims the light and chills the air
Manx

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