Authors: Marlena Spieler
Kosher and Traditional Jewish Cooking: Authentic Recipes From a Classic Culinary Heritage: 130 Delicious Dishes Shown in 220 Stunning Photographs | |
Number I of Cookbook 2007 | |
Marlena Spieler | |
Lorenz Books (2007) | |
Rating: | ★★★★☆ |
Jewish food: the phrase conjures up images of borscht, chicken soup with matzo balls, salt beef and chopped liver. These certainly are Jewish foods, relished by generations of Eastern European Jews, but Jewish cuisine is much, much more varied than that.
I grew up in California. The foods we ate were those of West Coast America – artichokes and oranges and avocados – but our culinary souls were also nourished by the foods of the Old Country of our grandparents’ era:
kasha
,
gedempte flaiche
and
knaidlach
,
matzo brei
and
kishke
from Ashkenazi Russia, Poland, the Ukraine and Lithuania, all served with a delicious overlay of Old New York.
Jewish food is a combination of richly varied cuisines from all over the globe, reflecting the multi-ethnicity of the Jewish people, and the many places where they have settled over the course of time. For years I thought the little savoury pastries called
empanadas
were typically Jewish, because that’s what my cousin used to make when we visited her. It was only years later that I discovered they were native to Uruguay, where she was raised.
In the past, the Ashkenazim and Sephardim were often far removed from each other; the spicy food of the Sephardim was seldom served on traditional Ashkenazi tables and vice versa. The establishment of the State of Israel, migration and the expansion of modern travel have changed this considerably, and brought Jews together again, starting at the table where they can share their own flavours and dishes.
Regardless of where history has taken them, the food Jews eat is governed by the laws of Kashrut – the code of fitness that applies to what may be eaten, how food must be prepared and which foods can be combined with other foods. There are variations in how different ethnic groups adhere to Kashrut, and degrees of observance, but the basics are the same. Certain types of meat, fish and fowl are allowed, while others are forbidden. Rules govern the slaughter and inspection of animals, as well as which parts may be used, and there is an injunction against combining meat foods with dairy foods. This set of rules has kept the Jewish people culturally distinct, as well as giving an underlying flavour to their food.
Kofta kebabs are very popular in Jewish communities from the Middle East.
Fragrant beetroot (beet) and vegetable soup with spiced lamb kubbeh.
The preparation, eating and rituals involved with Kashrut have always played an important part in the lives of the Jewish people. In the Torah, the Patriarch Abraham is noted for the hospitable table he sets. It is recorded that Isaac asked his son for a nice dish of savoury meat, and also that Esau sold his birthright for a big, soupy lentil stew. In Chapter 11 of the book of Numbers, the story is told of how the Israelites fleeing Egypt wept with longing for the garlic and leeks they had eaten during their captivity – even freedom lacked flavour without delicious seasonings.