India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (307 page)

23–25 Lal Ghat, Udaipur 313 001.
0294/242-0133
or -2860. Fax 0294/241-8512.
www.jagatniwaspalace.com
. [email protected]. 29 units. Rs 1,550 standard double; Rs 2,150 regular deluxe double; Rs 2,550 lake-facing deluxe double; Rs 3,650 super deluxe double; Rs 5,999 suite; Rs 750 extra bed. Taxes extra. AE, MC, V.
Amenities:
Restaurant; bar; currency exchange; doctor-on-call; horseback riding; Internet (Rs 150/hr.); room service; safaris. In room: A/C, TV.

Western Shores of Lake Pichola

A real gem, situated in the nearby countryside on a hilltop alongside the otherworldly Monsoon Palace, the regal Fateh Garh
(
0294/3290228;
www.fatehgarh.in
; [email protected]) is the place to stay if you want to be far from the crowds of Udaipur, yet close enough (20 min.) to buzz in and out without compromising on understated luxury. A new property (opened Nov 2008), which has already featured in
Condé Nast Traveler
’s Hot List and Worlds Sexiest Pools (May, Aug 2009), it commands sweeping views east towards Lake Pichola. Constructed with found objects and antique architectural pieces and restored on the principle of Vastu (Indian Feng Shui), and owned and managed by the Jitendra Singh Rathore family (of HRH fame), it cuts a symmetrical, almost roman presence into the countryside but is softened by the use of airy verandah’s, local stone and sustainable power. With 48 rooms in total including 10 suites, the ones to go for are the corner suites which are a steal at Rs 20,000 (standard rooms are Rs 14,000, rooms 9 and 10 have their own plunge pool and terrace). If you don’t decide to stay the night then the least you should do is come for a sundowner and a swim in the infinity pool, and linger for dinner at one of the two restaurants.

Amet Haveli
Located on the shores of Lake Pichola, with views of Jag Niwas directly opposite, this pretty 350-year-old haveli has enough charm to have found its way into glossy books, but it’s rather basic for anyone wanting lots of amenities. Nevertheless, all accommodations face the lake, and if you book suite no. 16, or 7, a corner unit with a large mattressed
jarokha
that juts over the water, you’ll have lovely views of the City and Lake palaces, which you can even see from your king-size bed. Freshly whitewashed, with simple furnishings, the room is airy and light, and very good value. Suite no. 8 is almost twice as large—a bright, marble-floored space with antique furnishings—but the views are not nearly as spectacular. The five new upstairs guest rooms are completely modern additions. Despite the standard menu, the
Ambrai
restaurant has a good reputation for its tandoori dishes, and its lakeside setting makes it an ideal sunset spot under shady mango trees.

Outside Chandpole, Udaipur 313 001.
0294/243-1085
or -4009. Fax 0294/252-2447. [email protected]. 15 units. Rs 4,000 double; Rs 5,000 suite; Rs 500 extra bed. Taxes extra. AE, MC, V.
Amenities:
Restaurant; bar; doctor-on-call; Internet (Rs 50/hr.); pool. In room: A/C, fan, TV.

The Leela Palace Kempinski Udaipur
The Disneyfication of the pristine heritage landscape of Udaipur continues with the opening (May 2009) of this world-class hotel. Attempting to borrow from both the Taj Lake Palace and the somewhat corporate Oberoi, yet with neither the sense of history or location, it must start as a third choice. That said, once you are resigned to its failed exterior design and step inside, the magic begins to take hold. Rooms are arguably the plushest in Rajasthan in the sense that they are brand-new, with the latest technology, and extremely well thought out; even the standard category rooms have everything you’d expect from a five-star suite. The destination fine Indian dining at the rooftop lakeside Sheesh Mahal is a grand affair, and The Dining Room has an amazing walk-in global wine collection to match its worldly cuisine (chef Karim Hassene brings his Michelin two-star restaurant experience from Paris). In fact one cannot help gawk at the exquisite lighting, the ornate
thekri
work and tasteful adornment of Indian artifacts throughout—never gaudy, oppressive, or trying too hard.

The Leela Palace Kempinski, Udaipur, P.O. Box 125, Lake Pichola, Udaipur 313001, India.
294/670-1234.
Fax 294/670-1212.
www.theleela.com
. [email protected]. 80 units. Lakeview room Rs 13,500 per night; heritage view room Rs 15, 500. Taxes extra. Rates include breakfast and return airport transfer. AE, DC, MC, V.
Amenities:
2 restaurants; lounge/bar; babysitting; butler service; boating; concierge; doctor-on-call; Internet; limousine transfer from airport on request; 2 pools; room service; spa (with Ayurvedic treatments); water taxis. In room: A/C, TV, DVD/CD library, minibar, iPod docking station, Wi-Fi (Rs 150/hr.).

Udai Kothi
The fragrant scent of marigold fills the air at this laid-back hotel built by entrepreneurial Vishwa Vijay Singh and decorated by his keen-eyed shopaholic wife. Together, they’ve created a relatively authentic replica of a traditional haveli. It may not be as well located (with regards to top attractions) as Jagat Niwas or Amet Haveli, but it’s an easy stroll to the Old City, with Udaipur’s only rooftop pool, situated on a trellised terrace where meals are served—the views at night are breathtaking. Accommodations are comfortable, with canopied beds, block-print fabrics, frescoes, and individually sourced pieces. Ask for a lake-facing room on the third floor for the best views. Underscoring the immense popularity of this unassuming place, there are plans to double the size of the property with new pools, new suites, an additional restaurant, and a launch for budget-conscious jet-setters who enjoy arriving by boat.