India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (304 page)

48km (30 miles) from Udaipur (1-hr. drive one-way).

Day Trip 2: A Temple, a Fort & a Wonderful Drive

Ranakpur Temples
If you visit only one temple complex in Rajasthan, it should be Jain. Those at Ranakpur offer the finest examples of the complex and sustained levels of craftsmanship the Jains are renowned for, comparable in every way to the more famous Dilwara Temples at Mount Abu. If anything, a visit here is preferable—despite being a great deal more accessible, the area is infinitely more peaceful, with less traffic. Known for their ascetism and religious fervor (Jains are not only strict vegetarians, but the most orthodox among them walk with care to ensure no hapless insect should die underfoot due to their carelessness, and wear permanent masks to protect even the tiniest bug from the possibility of being ingested), the Jains put all their passion (and not inconsiderable wealth) into the creation of ornately carved temples. The Ranakpur Temples are jaw-droppingly beautiful, with exquisitely detailed relief carvings (and strangely, a few pieces of tinfoil) covering every inch of pillar, wall, and ceiling. The main triple-volume Chaumukha Temple, built from 1446 and dedicated to Adinatha Rishabdeva, the first Jain
tirthankara,
or “Enlightened One,” is surrounded by 66 subsidiary shrines; inside are 1,444 intricately carved pillars—not one of them the same. (Incidentally, the land was donated to the Jains by Rana Kumbha, the warrior who built 32 forts, of which Kumbhalgarh is the most famous.) Note that no leather items (including belts and handbags) are allowed on the premises, no photography of the statues or enshrined deities is allowed (general temple pictures are permitted), and you are requested to dress conservatively (legs and shoulders must be covered; you can rent garments at the ticket desk should you require). Jain customs also strictly forbid menstruating women from entering.
Note:
There are no good accommodations in the immediate vicinity, so it is best to push on to the peaceful and welcoming HRH
Aodhi Hotel,
near Kumbhalgarh Fort (see below). Or, if you’re on your way to Jodhpur, try
Rawla Narlai
or
Deogarh Mahal
(see “A Special Spot Between Udaipur & Jaipur/Jodhpur,” later in this section). If you want to grab an early lunch of authentic Jain food, make your way to the canteen-style eatery near the main temple, which operates between 11:30am and 1pm; if you’re visiting late, perhaps stay for an early dinner, served from 5pm until sunset (5:45pm in winter, and around 7pm in summer).

Tip:
Two kilometers (1 1⁄4 miles) north of Ranakpur, you will pass
Tribal Dhurrie Udyog,
a traditional
dhurrie
(carpet)
“shop” (
0294/241-7833
), where you can pick up a beautifully crafted 4×6m (13×20-ft.) carpet for around $75—a great deal cheaper than what you’ll pay in the cities.

65km (40 miles) from Udaipur (21⁄2-hr. drive one-way). Rs 50 camera. Long pants needed. Summer 11:30am–5pm; winter noon–5pm. For information, contact office manager Prema Ramji
02934/28-5019.

Kumbhalgarh Fort
Built in the 15th century by Rana Kumbha, this mountain fortress is, together with Jodhpur’s Mehrangarh Fort, one of the most impressive sights Rajasthan has to offer. Take one look at the impenetrable walls (said to be the second largest man-made object visible from space),that snake for 36km (22 miles) along 13 mountain peaks, and you know that this is one of the most inaccessible fortifications ever built by humans. It was in fact only captured once, when the Mughal emperor Akbar had its water supply poisoned. This is also where the infant Udai Singh, who was spirited here by his nanny while Chittaurgarh (see below) was being sacked, spent his formative years. The wall, the second longest in the world, culminates in a fairy-tale fort within which lie the
Palace of Rana Kumbha
and
Badal Mahal
(or
Palace of Clouds,
so named because it literally is in the clouds during the monsoon months). The fort is situated deep within Kumbhalgarh Wildlife Sanctuary, and the drive there—through tiny villages and pastoral countryside—is one of the great highlights of a trip to Rajasthan and a great contrast to the crowded cities. Kumbhalgarh is considered the most important fort after Chittaurgarh, but its relative accessibility and the charm of the drive make this the preferable option. That said, while the sheer size and initial spectacle of the fort stays with you, be warned that the climb to the palaces is steep and stiff, and the buildings themselves are pretty lifeless (there’s hardly anything left to suggest anything of the life and times of the people who once occupied these lofty chambers). The real reward for your physical exertion will be the unforgettable views of the surrounding valleys—let your imagination soar and you may just be able to hear the sounds of war.

To have adequate time to explore the fort, or to take in Eklingji on the return journey, it’s worth overnighting near the fort. The closest and best choice is the charming
Aodhi Hotel,
a former royal hunting lodge now owned by the Udaipur king’s hotel chain HRH (
02954/24-2341
through -2346;
www.hrhindia.com
; Rs 6,000 deluxe double, Rs 8,000 deluxe suite). Built of the local packed granite stone and rock, it mimics a hillside fortress, complete with cannons and crenellated walls and elevated thatched towers high up in the tree canopy where you can dine by candlelight. Accommodations are spacious and reasonably neat (each with A/C, TV, and big, thick, comfortable new beds) and overlook a large blue pool and a pretty alfresco dining area. Room nos. 4, 5, 10, 11, and 23 enjoy good views, but you’ll no doubt find yourself sharing the hotel with groups during the winter season. Even if you don’t stay here, consider stopping for a meal (the Indian food is excellent) and a special drink at the bar—ask for a glass of
kesar kastari,
a unique heritage liqueur made with saffron and 20 other herbal ingredients.
Note:
There is now an evening
sound-and-light show
at the fort; it starts at 7pm, which means you almost
have
to be a guest at Aodhi if you want to see it.

90km (56 miles) from Udaipur (2-hr. drive one-way; 1 hr. from Ranakpur Temples). Admission $2.45 (£1.25). Sunrise–sunset.

Day Trip 3: A History of Valor

Chittaurgarh (Chittor)
Chittaurgarh is 3 hours (115km/71 miles) from Udaipur and covers 280 hectares (700 acres), making it a rather long day trip (it takes around 2 hr. to explore), but it’s well worth it if you’re armed with information and a good imagination (both of which can be supplied by a good guide; ask your hotel for recommendations). Thrusting 180m (590 ft.) into the sky, the fort houses a number of monuments and memorials, but with much of it in ruins, its primary importance lies in its evocative history. The fort has witnessed some of the bloodiest battles in history, and songs recording the valor and sacrifice of its inhabitants are still sung today.

Built in the 7th century, it remained the capital of Mewar until 1568, when the capital shifted to Udaipur. During this time Chittaurgarh was ravaged three times, but the story of the first sacking that took place in 1303 during the reign of Rana Ratan Singh is perhaps the most romantic (see “Battling for a Glimpse of Beauty,” below).

Chittaurgarh returned to Rajput rule in 1326 and the Mewar enjoyed 2 centuries of prosperity before it was again laid siege to, this time by Sultan Bahadur Shah of Gujarat. To save the life of the Rajput heir Udai Singh, his nursemaid Panna Dai sacrificed her own infant son, leaving him as a decoy for the murderous sultan and spiriting the tiny heir away to Kumbhalgarh Fort. The women and children of Chittaurgarh committed
jauhar
(mass ritual suicide)
while their men died in battle.