India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (299 page)
The British also established a number of first-rate educational institutions, particularly
Mayo College, known as the Eton of the East. Originally designed to educate only the sons of the aristocracy, it opened its doors in 1875 to princes arriving on elephant-back, followed by retinues of 1,000 servants. The school is worth visiting, even just to view the building from the road; it’s a superb example of Indo-Saracenic architecture, with much symbolic detailing. The sun and the moon, for instance (featured on the college hall roof and on the school coat of arms), signify the mythical descent of the maharajas (see “Once Were Warriors: The History of the Rajput,” earlier in this chapter). To enter the school, you will need to get the principal’s permission (with a bit of patience, this can be arranged through the gate attendant).
Another Ajmer attraction definitely worth seeing is
Svarna Nagari Hall
Unless you’re expecting authentic untouched India, Pushkar is a delight to visit any time of the year, with its laid-back, almost European atmosphere offset by the unique aromas of India and tons of tiny shops, temples, Brahmin eateries, and operators offering camel- and horseback safaris into the surrounding desert (camels are about Rs 250 per hour, Rs 700 full day; horses are Rs 450 per hour). But the town is most famous for its annual
mela
—the largest camel fair in Asia. Attracting an estimated 200,000 rural traders, red-turbaned Rabari and Bhil tribal folk, pilgrims, and tourists, the
mela
stretches tiny Pushkar into sprawling villages of temporary campsites—interspersed with food stalls and open-air theaters—created solely to house, feed, and entertain the swollen population that flocks to the specially built amphitheater on the outskirts of the town to watch the races and attend the auctions. Like most desert destinations, however, it is at night that the atmosphere takes on an unreal intimacy, as pilgrims and tourists get to know each other around the many campfires, and Rajasthani dancers and traditional folk singers create a timeless backdrop. The Pushkar
mela
takes place in the Hindu month of Kartik, over the waxing and waning of the full moon that occurs in late October or in November.
On the evening of the full
mela
moon, as the desert sun sets behind the low-slung hills (a spectacular sight at the best of times), temple bells and drums call the devout to
puja,
and hundreds of pilgrims wade into the lake—believed to miraculously cleanse the soul—before lighting clay lamps and setting them afloat on its holy waters, the twinkling lights a surreal reflection of the desert night sky. If you’re lucky enough to have booked a room at Pushkar Palace, you can watch this ancient ritual from a deck chair on the terrace (it can be quite a scramble to get a view from the
ghats
themselves)—a wonderful sight and one of those mystic moments that make a trip to India among the most memorable of your life.
Passport to Pushkar: Saying Your Prayers
Hard proof of Pushkar’s pushiness lies in the passport control as you enter the town—many foreigners (mostly Israeli hippies, hence the inclusion of falafels and pitas on the menu of even the most traditional Brahmin eatery) have come to experience its idyllic location and quaint, laid-back vibe and have never left, marrying locals and starting small businesses. As a result, there is now a moratorium on the length of time you can stay—a maximum of 3 months. So even though this measure is not always enforced, have your passport on hand as you enter. For those who wish to walk onto the ghats lining the lake, you’ll need an entirely different kind of passport: Brahmin priests will bully you into performing puja—prayers that involve a scattering of flowers into the lake—after which you will be expected to make a hefty donation (inquire at your hotel for the going rate or you will almost certainly be ripped off). The priest will then tie a thin red thread around your wrist, which you can brandish at the next Brahmin priest who will almost certainly approach you, but who will quickly retreat upon seeing your “passport.” To experience Pushkar from a pilgrim’s perspective, and not as a disenchanted tourist, try to gain a closer insight into what makes this an important place for Hindu pilgrims, and gain your wrist thread without being ripped off, call on
Giriraj
(94-1430-0053;
puja fee Rs 150), a local priest who is also a licensed guide. His English isn’t perfect, but he can throw some light on the history and background of the area, and help out with practical information; he charges Rs 350 a half day, and Rs 500 a full day.
ESSENTIALS
VISITOR INFORMATION
Pushkar doesn’t have its own tourist office. The rather useless
RTDC office
is located at the very mediocre RTDC Hotel Sarovar (0145/277-2040
), and is open daily from 9am to 5pm.
GETTING THERE
Pushkar lies about 3 hours west of Jaipur; a deluxe bus here costs about Rs 125. Udaipur is 300km (186 miles) away by bus (Rs 300); Jodhpur 215km (133 miles; Rs 265); and Jaisalmer 550km (341 miles; Rs 1,050). Pushkar lies 145km (90 miles) from the closet airport, which is at Jaipur and is 400km (248 miles) from Delhi (Rs 500 by bus)
GETTING AROUND
Pushkar is easily explored on foot. There is no public transport system (and only a limited number of cycle- or auto-rickshaws) in town. If you prefer not to walk, the only option is to hire a small private taxi that costs in the region of Rs 800 to Rs 1,000.
WHERE TO STAY
You really want to get a room overlooking the sacred lake—despite the early-morning and evening chanting calls to
puja
and blaring temple music, it’s by far the most atmospheric location in Pushkar. Of the surprisingly limited options that offer direct lake views, Pushkar Palace (reviewed below) is the only luxurious option; for the rest you’ll have to rough it (we’re talking basic furnishings—a plastic chair and bed and the possibility of sharing a bathroom and toilet).
Far and away the best budget option in town is
Inn Seventh Heaven
(next to Mali ka Mandir;0145/510-5455;
www.inn-seventh-heaven.com
; Rs 600–Rs 4,000),
located in a 100-year-old haveli with rooms (with names like “Hilly Billy” and “Rapunzel”) around a fountain and garden courtyard. Anoop, the enterprising young owner, has ensured that rooms are clean and dressed with some sense of style; despite its location (away from the lake), it has a pleasant, informal, homey feel, and the great second-floor restaurant does satisfying Indian food. If you plan well in advance, you can bag the most recently added room, “Asana,” also the most expensive, but it’s bright and situated on the roof, where there’s a good view. It has antique furniture and four-poster beds (as do some of the other rooms).