Bobbi Brown Makeup Manual: For Everyone from Beginner to Pro (5 page)

It is a good idea to develop some shopping strategies to avoid frustration, intimidation, or impulse-buying. First, determine your budget. Makeup can be expensive. Estimate the cost of your supply needs, and add a realistic amount for trying new products. Making an inventory list of all the supplies in your makeup kit is very helpful. Use this as a shopping list, and just circle the needed items. If you want to replace something specific, you can take the container with you to the store. In a notebook, keep a page for jotting down any new products you might want to test. This is also a place to record product ingredients for comparison shopping. For the best service, shop when the stores are least crowded, generally in the mornings, early in the week. Let the makeup artist at the counter show you a new look or technique. Listen and ask questions. Be clear about your likes and dislikes. Ask for samples or trial-size containers of any products you like. Purchase a product only if you love the way the makeup looks and know that you will use it.

Sources

You will want to find several places to purchase makeup supplies that suit your needs and preferences. For testing and experimentation, store visits are very useful. Once you are familiar with a product line, it is faster and easier to do your shopping online. Most of the retailers and designers now have Web sites for quick and convenient shopping.

Department Stores

High-end brands are typically sold through dedicated counter areas in department stores. Most of the counter personnel are trained in makeup application and are able to provide information and advice. You can test the makeup before purchasing so you know exactly what you’re getting. Some sales staff are paid on commission, so you may be pressured to make a purchase.

Drugstores and Pharmacies

These stores are convenient and carry a wide variety of mass-market products. Purchase basic supplies such as nail polish, cotton balls, makeup sponges, and cotton swabs at these retailers. Very few of the products can be tested before buying, so purchases might not meet your expectations.

Beauty Supply Shops

Makeup artists depend on these industry meccas for professional-quality products at budget-friendly prices. You will receive personalized attention and won’t be rushed or pressured to make a purchase, because the sales clerks are not paid on commission. These stores will usually ship anywhere in the country.

Beauty Superstores

One-stop shops, such as Sephora and Ulta, offer a wide range of mass-market, prestige, and niche products. The staff is knowledgeable and willing to answer questions.

Purchasing Dos & Don’ts

Do
buy multipurpose makeup, such as lip-cheek combinations.

Do
shop in daylight for foundation.

Don’t
equate “dermatologist tested” with better quality. The claim does not guarantee that the doctor approved of the product—just that it was tested.

Do
save your receipts. Many stores will refund your money within a specified period of time if you are not satisfied with a product. If any cream-based makeup smells or has an odd texture, take it back. It is probably old.

Don’t
toss leftovers unless the makeup is more than eighteen months old. When that lipstick or cream blush gets near the end, scoop the remainder into small, covered, compartmentalized boxes (palettes) that are available at art and beauty supply stores. Label the back of the palette with the color name for reference when you need to restock.

Specialty Stores

These freestanding stores offer a wide selection of products, often “indie” brands. This is a good place to find trend-driven shades, foundations, and concealers.

Catalogs

Shopping from catalogs specific to a brand is a convenient way to stock up on favorite shades of cosmetics. Once you are familiar with a product, this is a fast and easy way to order replacements, get a quick overview of new products, and see the latest fashion colors.

Discontinued?!?

Has your signature fragrance or favorite lipstick disappeared from the market? This happens for any number of reasons. It is possible that the product was not selling well, or it has been reformulated to meet new standards. Discontinued beauty products are available if you know where to look. Use the Internet to do your research. Visit the company’s Web site first. There will generally be information available on discontinued products. Estée Lauder, for example, publishes item closings in advance on their Web site so that consumers can stock up. Specialty Web sites, outlets, and online auctions often carry these cosmetics and fragrances. Do be aware of expiration dates, however. Cosmetics have a limited shelf life and should not be used after the expiration dates posted by the manufacturer.

Finally, if you just can’t locate your old favorite, make a plea. Either e-mail or write a personal letter asking the company to bring it back. Companies listen closely to their customers, and it is not unusual for specific colors or products to be resurrected thanks to consumer demand. At the very least, you will get a response from the company, usually providing reasons for the closing and often samples of similar products for you to try.

CARE & MAINTENANCE OF TOOLS & MAKEUP

Your makeup is only as good as the tools you use to apply it. Therefore, your tools must always be in their best working condition. That means clean brushes, puffs, and sponges; sharpened tweezers; makeup containers that are in perfect shape; and makeup that’s not too old to use safely.

Brush Care

A good set of brushes will last several years if it is well cared for. This involves storing the brushes properly (either in a neat brush roll that has individual slots for each brush or upright in a pencil cup) and keeping them clean. To clean brushes, take a drop of brush cleaner or very gentle soap in your palm, wet the brush, and swirl the bristles around on your palm until they are covered in soap. (I love using baby shampoo.) Rinse thoroughly until all soap residue is gone. Do not immerse the brush head in water, because the hair is glued to the base, and even the most expensive brushes will come apart. Squeeze out excess moisture with a clean towel, reshape the brush head, and let it dry with the bristles hanging off the edge of a counter so the bristles dry into the perfect shape. Brushes can become mildewed if they rest on a towel while drying.

Clean all your brushes every month or two. For a quick cleaning in between washings, use a spray brush cleaner. Spritz it onto the bristles, and swipe them back and forth on a tissue until all product residues are removed from the brush.

Tip

Clean the sides of messy compacts with a cotton swab to keep them looking fresh.

Sponge Care

High-quality sponges can be washed many times before they need to be discarded. Alternatively, you can buy disposable synthetic sponge wedges at the drugstore that work well and are inexpensive. You can wash and reuse them only a few times before you throw them out.

Powder Puff Care

While drugstores sell disposable powder puffs, it’s worth investing in a better-quality one. Hand wash the puff using the same liquid soap you use for your brushes, or toss it into your next load of laundry or on the top rack of the dishwasher.

Tweezer Care

When tweezers get dull—which happens with repeated use—they are no longer as effective at grabbing on to and removing small hairs. You can take them to a knife shop for sharpening. Some of the better brands, such as Tweezerman, come with a lifetime guarantee that includes free sharpening whenever necessary.

Eyelash Curler Care

The rubber pads that line the inside of an eyelash curler are there to protect the lashes, so when the pads start to wear out or break apart, they must be replaced. Many eyelash curlers come with a set of replacement pads. Keep a set on hand.

Makeup Care

Examine the contents of your makeup bag, drawer, or cabinet. Take out anything that’s in a broken container or missing a cap. You can pour liquid foundation into a fresh bottle, scoop out creams and lipsticks and transfer them to small containers or palettes, and place capless pencils in zip-top plastic bags. Broken powder blushes and pressed powder compacts are irreparable and should be tossed. Weekly maintenance is far easier than semiannual overhauls.

You also need to get rid of any makeup that’s past its expiration date: