Bobbi Brown Makeup Manual: For Everyone from Beginner to Pro (9 page)

Moisturizer Application

Once the face is thoroughly cleansed and toned,
and while it is still slightly damp, apply moisturizer using a clean sponge or your fingers. (Note: dense balms will work only on dry skin.) If you are using your hands to apply any makeup products, always wash them thoroughly so you don’t transfer oils and bacteria to your face. Bacteria on the hands or makeup tools often cause breakouts.

Use about a nickel-size amount
of moisturizer.

Warm the balm or moisturizer
between your palms.

With firm, upward strokes,
gently press the product into the skin until it is completely absorbed.

Smoking is always a horrible idea.

It severely damages your skin and lungs and is a common cause of cancer. It makes you smell and robs color from your skin and lips. Smoke breaks down the skin’s defenses, depriving it of the oxygen it needs for healthy cell renewal. Repeated exposure to cigarette smoke causes the skin to lose its luster and tone and to wrinkle. Smokers often develop permanent wrinkles around the lips. Smoking is the one lifestyle choice for which balance and moderation are not options.

Sun Protection

Lines, dark spots, and uneven skin texture are
not
the inevitable effects of aging but are often the result of too much sun exposure. Overexposure to sunlight can also cause cancer. Too much sun is the skin’s worst enemy. The only way to prevent premature aging and skin damage due to overexposure is to stay out of the midday sun when possible, wear protective clothing and hats, and always use the proper sunscreen.

Three types of radiation reach us from the sun. Visible and infrared light rays provide light and warmth. Ultraviolet rays are harmful. The sun’s ultraviolet (UV) light falls into three wavelength bands: UVA, UVB, and UVC.

UVA RAYS
have the longest wavelength and remain high in intensity all day. They penetrate through the epidermis and deep into the dermis, damaging newer cells. UVA rays are very dangerous and can cause cancers and sensitivity reactions.

UVB RAYS
have a midrange wavelength, and like UVA rays penetrate the epidermis and continue into the dermis. These rays break down the organization of skin cells, causing wrinkles and broken blood vessels. They are highest in intensity from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and near the equator. Glass protects skin from UVB rays.

UVC RAYS
have the shortest wavelength and are usually absorbed by the ozone layer. They are absorbed by the epidermis and can be very dangerous in large amounts. As the ozone layer thins, attention will need to be paid to these UVC rays.

Tips for Protecting Your Skin from the Damaging Effects of the Sun

Whenever possible, stay out of the sun
for long periods of time, especially between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m., when rays are strongest.

Protect exposed skin all year round.
Wear sunscreen with an SPF (sun protection factor) of 15 to 30, depending on the season and length of exposure. Long-sleeved shirts and wide-brimmed hats provide some protection. Remember, the sun penetrates through loosely woven and wet clothing very easily, so wear sunscreen even when covered.

Avoid tanning beds.
There is no such thing as safe tanning.

Wear sunglasses
that wrap around the eyes and have 100 percent UV-blocking lenses. Most sunscreens are too harsh to use on the sensitive area around the eyes.

Select a sunscreen that protects
against both UVA and UVB rays, sometimes labeled as broad-spectrum sunscreen. Many popular sunscreens will not adequately protect your skin from these harmful rays.

Apply liberally
—about one teaspoon of sunscreen to your face and at least one ounce (about a shot glass) to your body each day. The face and hands are high-risk areas for cancer, so apply liberally to those areas.

If you have sensitive skin,
use a cream-based product, and avoid sunscreens with tretinoin (Retin-A, Stieva-A, Retisol-A, Rejuva-A, Renova, Vitamin A acid), which dries the skin. Look for a fragrance-free, hypoallergenic sunscreen if you have any allergies to skin products.

Waterproof and water-resistant sunscreens
are good if you are involved in swimming or sports. Waterproof products work for ninety minutes; protection with water-resistant sunscreens lasts thirty minutes. They need to be applied/reapplied twenty minutes before entering the water so that the product can bond with the skin.

Those who work out of doors
might need frequent application of a sunscreen with a high SPF.

UVA rays
are reflected from all light surfaces, including water, sand, snow, ice, and even concrete.

Children younger than six months old
should not wear sunscreen but instead be covered and kept out of the sun.

Exposure to the sun produces the formation of molecules in the skin called free radicals. These molecules attack healthy skin cells, damaging and interfering with the production of new collagen. With the destruction of collagen fibers and hyaluronic acid molecules—both of which are responsible for preserving the volume and resiliency of the skin—skin loses its firmness, resulting in wrinkles. The sun can also damage the eyes and affect the immune system. UV rays can damage white blood cells and Langerhans cells, both essential to the skin’s ability to fight viruses and other diseases.

For more information and to learn of new developments in sunscreen protection, these Web sites, listed recently in a
New York Times
article, might prove helpful.

Environmental Working Group (lists products with UVA protection)
www.cosmeticsdatabase.com

The Skin Cancer Foundation
www.skincancer.org

American Cancer Society
www.cancer.org

American Academy of Dermatology
www.aad.org

British Columbia Centre for Disease Control
www.bccdc.org

Sunscreen Application

Apply sunscreen
at least once a day, and use an adequate amount of the product.

Clean the skin
before application.

Apply to cool, dry skin
twenty to thirty minutes before exposure. Cool, dry skin allows sunscreen to bind effectively. When sunscreen is applied to warm skin, the open pores can become irritated, and rashes can develop.

Two applications
help cover any missed spots.

Apply moisturizer and makeup
over sunscreen.

Reapply during the day,
depending on your rate of perspiration and the amount of sun exposure you get.

Tip

Use the equivalent of a shot glass of sunscreen — that’s two tablespoons — to cover skin from head to toe.

Skincare Glossary

There are many terms and ingredients associated with skincare products. What follows is only a basic list. While there are no miracles when it comes to the skin, a clear understanding of how ingredients function will help you select the right skincare products.

ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS (AHAS)
are naturally occurring acids found in fruits and milk, used topically to reduce the appearance of fine lines. AHAs help speed up the skin’s natural exfoliation process, helping it shed dead skin cells. They can improve the texture of skin, unclog pores, and help prevent breakouts. Glycolic acid is one of the commonly used AHAs. Do not use products containing salicylic acid (a beta hydroxy acid), which is too harsh for general exfoliation, as they are intended for use only on problem skin areas.

ANTI-AGING:
The best anti-aging formula is a healthy lifestyle. Nothing will stop the clock. Poor diet, excessive drinking, smoking, lack of exercise, and sunburn all accelerate the effects of aging on the skin.

ANTIOXIDANTS
help protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals, molecules with an unpaired electron. They cause oxidation that can damage cellular material. Vitamins A, C, and E, beta-carotene, green tea, and grape seed extract are all highly effective antioxidants.

BALMS
are super-rich moisturizers that target dry patches of skin on face, hands, feet, and body. Look for ingredients such as avocado extract or shea butter. For a subtle glow, I warm some in my hands and pat on the cheeks after applying makeup.

BASE
is a term that generally refers to a product applied under foundation to smooth and protect the skin. Bases often contain a mix of vitamins, antioxidants, and anti-aging ingredients. Previous generations referred to foundation color as base.

BRIGHTENER
:
Makeup products sometimes contain light-diffusing particles and/or ingredients that inhibit oxidation. Both of these are referred to as brighteners.

COLLAGEN
is a fibrous protein found in skin. When collagen levels in the skin are high, the skin appears firm. Levels of collagen decline as we age. As the support provided by the collagen is reduced, wrinkles begin to form. Injections temporarily replace lost collagen. The topical application of peptides may have a similar effect.

EMOLLIENTS
(squalane, avocado oil, wheat germ oil, glycerin, lanolin, petroleum, shea butter, and others) hold moisture in the skin and make the skin soft and supple.

EXFOLIATORS
are designed to help slough off dead skin cells. Look for scrubs designed for the face.

FIXERS
are sprays that set makeup. Makeup is also typically set with powders.

GREEN TEA EXTRACT
(
Camellia sinensis
) is a powerful antioxidant found in many anti-aging products that may slow down photo aging.

HUMECTANTS
(glycerin, algae extract, sodium hyaluronate, urea, lactic acid, panthenol and others) absorb water from the air and help the skin retain moisture.

HYALURONIC ACID
(sodium hyaluronate) is a fluid that surrounds the joints and is found in skin tissue. Aging slows the production of this acid, so it is often supplemented as an anti-aging treatment. It is used as filler for wrinkles (injection) and can be applied topically or taken in pill form. It is often added to moisturizer and works to hydrate skin.

OXIDANTS
are unstable molecules caused by pollution, smoke, ultraviolet light, toxins, and other environmental factors. Also known as free radicals, they attack and damage the skin, leading to premature aging.

PEPTIDES
are two or more amino acids bonded together, forming a linear molecule. The molecules can transfer biologically active agents (green tea, vitamin E, copper) to cells, renewing them. Algae peptides are used in some firming formulations. Copper peptides have been used for years to aid in wound healing. Labels might indicate that a product contains pentapeptides (five peptides) or polypeptides (many peptides).