Bobbi Brown Makeup Manual: For Everyone from Beginner to Pro (2 page)

This book is a true labor of love. It was written with the help of my team of makeup artists, friends, and customers—who have all contributed questions, concerns, and tips about makeup. Even though I’ve been in the makeup industry for over twenty years, I continue to learn.

The beauty industry is constantly changing, so it is important to stay open to new ideas, to acknowledge when techniques or styles don’t work anymore, and to try new approaches and solutions. The goal is always to help women look and feel beautiful.

I expect that aspiring makeup artists will want to read every word of this book. Others may pick and choose to read those sections that apply to their concerns. Makeup artistry is incredibly gratifying. So be open, have fun, and never stop learning.

Chapter 2

EQUIPMENT

Being well organized is essential
. Whether you’re a minimalist whose makeup kit rarely holds more than a lipstick and powder or a working makeup artist who routinely totes around a complete collection of cosmetics, it takes a plan.

MAKEUP KITS

Home Makeup

Organize your makeup either in your bathroom drawer, on top of the counter, or in a box. Keep basics and items used only occasionally separate. At least twice a year make sure your colors and formulas are working. Basics include:

Concealers and correctors

Foundation or tinted moisturizer

Powder (two colors)

Eye shadow (three to four basic colors)

Eyeliner (powder and gel)

Mascara

Blush (powder or cream)

Lipstick, gloss, lip pencil

Everyday Bag

Pack the following essentials in a small bag:

One or two palettes that contain your foundation, concealer, blush, and lip color

A compact of pressed powder with a mirror

A basic eye palette—the smaller the better

Mini mascara

Lip gloss

Mini brushes

Small sample sizes of face cream

Evening Bag

Tiny purses don’t lend themselves to toting around lots of products, so you need to be selective. Pack the following items:

Lipstick or gloss

Lip pencil

A powder compact

Customizable face palette (containing concealer, foundation, blush)

Mini perfume

Breath mints

In Your Desk Drawer

It’s worth investing in duplicates of your makeup to keep in your office to freshen up before a big meeting or for reapplying if you need to go straight out after work. These basics include the following items:

Concealer

Foundation

Pressed powder (with mirror)

Blush

Lip balm, lip color, and/or gloss

Black eyeliner and white or silver eye shadow to create an evening eye

Mini brushes

Travel toothbrush and toothpaste set

Tip

Collect deluxe samples from makeup counters-they are perfect for travel.

In Your Gym Bag

After a workout, you will want to clean your face and start your makeup from scratch. So be sure to bring the following items to the gym:

Face-cleansing cloths

Moisturizer

Customized face palette, or at least a tinted moisturizer, lip color or gloss, and mascara

For Travel

Keep your travel kit packed at all times so you never have to worry about arriving somewhere only to realize you’ve left something important in your bathroom cabinet. Invest in several small plastic bottles, label them, and fill them with your essentials. Purchase mini brushes, mascara, and a small eye palette. Include the following items:

Travel-size shampoo and conditioner

Body and facial moisturizers

Makeup palettes with all your basics

Mini mascara

Face powder, bronzer (great for the travel weary)

Self-tanner

Lipstick or gloss

A brush roll of travel-size brushes

Tweezers

Hairbrush and hair spray

Perfume in a mini or compact version

Perfumed body creams are also great

ESSENTIAL TOOLS

Brushes make all the difference in makeup application. Everyone from the most skilled makeup artist to the woman who wears only the basics can benefit from using the right tools. Consider investing in at least a few key brushes. High-quality blush, eye shadow, eyebrow, and eyeliner brushes are basic. Good brushes are not hard to find. Look at those made by makeup artists’ lines as well as less expensive versions available at beauty and art supply stores. To find out which brushes you need and which ones are good quality, familiarize yourself with a variety of styles, shapes, and bristle types.

Assessing Brush Quality

Before purchasing brushes, you have to know what you are looking for and which brushes are worthwhile investments. Assess the quality of a brush by testing the way the bristles feel against the skin and by running your fingers through the bristles to make sure that they don’t shed. It’s important to test how a brush feels when you hold it in your hand. It needs to feel comfortable and easy to maneuver.

Tips

Brush Size

The brushes that come with most makeup compacts are too small and narrow for proper blush application. Toss them and use a brush designed specifically for that purpose instead.

Natural Bristles

Natural bristles (such as squirrel, goat, pony, or sable) are very soft and offer a more blended, natural application. They’re best for working with powder-based products—blush, powder, and eye shadow.

Synthetic Bristles

Synthetic bristles are the best choice for brushes that will be used with creamy products, such as concealer, gel liners, and lip colors. They are generally stiffer than natural hair, so they give you greater control and a more precise application.

Tool Guide

This alphabetized glossary describes the different types of brushes as well as other tools you might want to keep in your kit. It will help you decide what brushes work best for a specific need or technique.

BLUSH BRUSH

This needs to be wide enough to cover the apple of the cheek. The bristles should be soft, natural hair with beveled and curved edges.

BRONZER BRUSH

This is thicker and fuller than a blush brush and has a flat profile. It is designed for sweeping and pressing bronzer over cheeks, forehead, nose, and chin to provide natural-looking warmth to the skin.