Why Italians Love to Talk About Food (68 page)

Lasagne festonate
(festooned lasagna; 35 x 300 mm or more). With frittata, cheese, and prosciutto (Piedmont).

Lasagnette
(small
lasagne
, 20 x 100 mm). With snails (Trentino Alto Adige).

Linguine
. With thick sauces, for example, marinara or
alla Gaeta
: with anchovies and garlic, capers, and olives (Campania).

Lumache rigate grandi
(large ribbed snails, ø 35 mm). Fried in lard (Sicily).

Lumaconi
(snails).
Ai quattro formaggi
(with four cheeses: Parmesan, Sbrinz, Emmenthal, fontina), with nutmeg and egg yolk (Lombardy).

Maccheroncelli
(long macaroni, broken up, length 20 mm).
Alla ciociara
: with
mozzarella di bufala
, anchovies, garlic, tomatoes, black peppercorns, and sugar (Lazio); with sardines (Calabria);
alla potentina
: with white wine, egg, Scamorza, and olive oil, sprinkled with bread crumbs and baked in the oven (Basilicata); with sardines, raisins, pine nuts, and anise (Sicily).

Maccheroni
(ø 4 mm, length 300 mm or more). With
ragù
and tomato sauces (Bobbio, Emilia Romagna);
alla pesarese
(Pesaro-style): with
prosciutto cotto
, turkey breast, chicken livers, veal, cheese, butter, black truffle, onion, broth, and cream, baked in the oven (Marches); with peas (Lazio);
alla siciliana
(Sicilian-style): with onion, peppers, black olives, anchovies, garlic, tomatoes, oregano, and eggplant (Sicily); with octopus (Puglia); baked in the oven with eggplant and garlic (Campania); with lamb
ragù
and rosemary (Molise); with cauliflower, raisins, pine nuts, Pecorino cheese, onion, anchovies, and saffron (Sicily).

Maccheroni alla chitarra
(guitar-style). With veal
ragù
and tomato, egg, onion, and Pecorino (Abruzzo).

Mafalde
(long noodles with rippled edges). Tomatoes, onion, dried mushrooms, pancetta, and parsley (Rome, Lazio).

Malloreddus
(see
Gnocchetti sardi
; with saffron, length 10–20 mm). With tomato sauce and browned salami paste (Sardinia); with carrots, peas, celery, and onion (Sardinia); with lamb
ragù
(Sardinia).

Maltagliati. Alla rustichella
: with fresh peas,
prosciutto cotto
, Gruyère, Parmesan, and pepper (everywhere);
alla sangiovaniello
: with pumpkin or zucchini flowers, San Giovanni Rotondo–style (Puglia).

Maniche
(sleeves). With tuna and artichokes in white wine (everywhere).

Mezze maniche
(half sleeves). With pork rind and red beans (Veneto).

Mezze maniche rigate
(ribbed half sleeves). With rosemary and pecorino (Sardinia).

Mezze penne
(half penne, quills).
Dell'orto e del mare
(land and sea): with artichokes and shrimp (Friuli Venezia Giulia); with basil, garlic, and olive oil (Liguria, Tuscany).

Mezze zite
(half ziti, “bridegrooms”).
Alla livornese
: with smoked pork shoulder, onion, olive oil, garlic, basil, pepper, red pepper, and thyme (Tuscany).

Minuicchi
(fresh egg pasta balls made by hand).
Alla potentina
: with smoked pancetta, pork, white wine, and grated sheep and goat cheese (Basilicata).

Ofelle
(ravioli with veal, spinach, and potatoes). With cheese (Friuli Venezia Giulia and Veneto).

Orecchiette
(“little ears”; fresh egg pasta, ø 20–25 mm). With lobster, carrots, red onion, butter and oil, champagne, and fish broth (Emilia Romagna); with turnip tops, tomato sauce, basil, and garlic (Puglia);
alla lucana
: made with rye flour, seasoned with onion and tomato sauce (Basilicata).

Pansoti
(ravioli, ø 50 mm). With walnut sauce (Liguria).

Panzerotti di magro
(meatless panzerotti, ø 50 mm). Fried in olive oil (Lazio).

Pappardelle
(long, flat noodles, wound up into a ball, width 11–15 mm). With hare
ragù
(Arezzo, Tuscany);
alla cacciatora
: with mushrooms;
alla boscaiola
: with fresh peas and meat sauce (Piedmont);
ai cinque formaggi
: with five cheeses (ricotta, Parmesan, pecorino, Emmenthal, and Gruyère), cream, spinach, oil, and garlic (Emilia Romagna); with fish and vegetables (Puglia).

Pasta trita
(various shapes, crushed). With fresh porcini mushrooms (Lombardy).

Penne lisce
(smooth “quills,” ø 8 mm, length 40 mm).
Alla contadina
: with tomatoes, olive oil, oregano, and cheese (everywhere);
all'arrabbiata
: with tomatoes, pancetta or fatback, garlic, onion, raisins, walnuts, hot red pepper, white wine, and Pecorino (Basilicata);
alla pescatora
: with crayfish and tomato sauce (on the coasts); with raw zucchini and garlic (everywhere); with woodcock (Veneto); with pumpkin, ricotta, onion, milk, and grated Parmesan (Emilia Romagna);
alla calabrese
: with anchovies, black olives, green olives, capers, and tuna (Calabria).

Penne mezzane
(ø 4 mm, length 25 mm). With
musciame
, sun-dried fillet of tuna or dolphin (Sardinia);
penne con la 'nduja
: with the typical soft Calabrian salami (Calabria).

Penne mezzi ziti
(ø 5 mm, length 20 mm). With sardines (Sicily).

Penne rigate
(ribbed penne). With cabbage and provolone (Piedmont); with grated truffle (Umbria); with Trapani pesto (almonds, basil, garlic) (Sicily).

Pennette
(ø 5 mm, length 25 mm).
Ncasciata
: with veal, chicken, salami paste, peas, pecorino, and Caciocavallo cheese (Sicily); with broccoli, raisins, anchovies, saffron, pine nuts, and pecorino (Sicily).

Pennette rigate
(ribbed pennette). With mascarpone, cream, and spinach (Lombardy).

Perciatelli
(ø 4 mm, length 300 mm or more, long, round, and hollow).
Alla napoletana
: with chopped meat, tomato paste, milk, mozzarella, egg, and peas (Campania); with snails (Calabria).

Perline
(little pearls). Small pasta for soups and broths (everywhere).

Pipe rigate
(ribbed pipes, 6 x 30 mm).
Alla sarda
, Sardinian-style: with olive oil, sage, myrtle, white wine, broth, olives, and basil (Sardinia).

Pizzicotti
(ø 20 mm). Gnocchi with spinach, ricotta, and nutmeg; served with salt and pepper (Rome, Lazio).

Pizzoccheri
(wheat flour and buckwheat noodles, 10 x 40 mm). With cheese and vegetables or with pigeon sauce (Valtellina, Lombardy); with a sauce of cabbage, potatoes, sage, and cheese (Lombardy).

Quadrucci
(squares, 12–15 mm per side). With swordfish sauce (Messina, Sicily).

Ravioli
(with herbs and ricotta, ø 40 mm). Of rye flour, with spinach and nutmeg (Alto Adige);
alla mantovana
(Mantua-style): with
ragù
and Parmesan (Lombardy).

Ravioli alle noci
(walnut ravioli, ø 40 mm). With pesto (Liguria).

Reginette
(“little queens,” long, wide noodles with curled edges). With melted cheese, walnuts, and shaved black truffle (Piedmont).

Riccia
(long, narrow noodles with curved edges). With
ragù
(Abruzzo).

Riccioli
(“curls,” length 250 mm; long, narrow noodles with rippled edges). With purée of lentils (Abruzzo).

Rigatoncini
(slightly curved tubular pasta that is larger than
penne rigate
but smaller than rigatoni. It has a ridged surface and straight-cut ends). With purée of fava beans (Ragusa, Sicily).

Rigatoni
(13 x 60 mm). With zucchini (Veneto);
all'uccelletto
: with larks, buntings, and figpeckers; with bird's breast in a
ragù
of chopped meat with onion, garlic, white wine, sage, and tomato paste (Bergamo, Lombardy);
alla romana
: with
prosciutto crudo
, pork, offal, peas, oil, and pecorino (Lazio); with fava beans (Lazio);
alla pajata
(Lazio); with eggplant, mozzarella, tomatoes, egg, bread crumbs, onion, and basil (Puglia);
alla napoletana
: baked with chopped meat, tomatoes, onion, mozzarella, and egg (Campania); with eggplant, tomatoes, garlic, and olives (Sicily).

Rotini
. With very thick sauces or in pasta salads (everywhere).

Schiaffoni
or
schiaffettoni
(“slaps” or “cuffs,” ø 10 mm, length 55 mm). With broccoli; with sea urchins (Calabria).

Sedani rigati
(“ribbed celery,” ø 8–10 mm, ø 50–60 mm in length). With capers, basil, and mozzarella (everywhere); with chicory, fava beans, and ricotta (everywhere).

Spaghetti
(ø 1.8–2 mm, length 300 mm or more). With tomato sauces or timbale (everywhere);
all'amatriciana
: with diced smoked veal cheek, tomatoes, onion, and pecorino (Lazio);
spaghetti alle vongole veraci
: with clams (Marches);
alla norcina
: with truffles (Umbria);
ai quattro gusti
, with four tastes: tongue, chicken breast, Gruyère, black truffles, grated Parmesan, and peppercorns (Marches);
alla toscana
: with tomatoes, garlic, pepper, basil, pancetta, and capers (Tuscany);
macco
: with beans, celery, onions, and fresh tomatoes (Tuscany);
alla carbonara
: with pancetta, egg, and grated Parmesan (Lazio);
all'arrabbiata
: with pork tripe or pancetta, garlic, onion, hot red pepper, walnuts,
and white wine (Lazio);
alla carrettera
: with pancetta or salt pork, tuna, porcini mushrooms, garlic, olive oil, and grated cheese (Lazio);
alla caprese
: with tomato, mozzarella, basil, and oregano (Campania); with clams, white wine, olive oil, parsley, and garlic (Campania);
alla puveriello
: with fried egg and cheese (Campania);
alla puttanesca
: with anchovies, black olives, capers, tomatoes, garlic, hot red pepper, and olive oil (Campania);
alla barese
: with turnip tops, tomatoes, and basil (Puglia); with black cuttlefish ink and tomatoes (Sicily);
alla Norma
: with eggplant, tomatoes, ricotta, and garlic (Sicily);
alla bottarga
, with roe (Sardinia);
all'algherese
: with olive oil, garlic, oregano, clams, and capers (Sardinia).

Spaghettoni
(ø 18.5 mm).
Carbonada
: with meat, red wine, rosemary, and butter (Valle d'Aosta).

Stellette
(little stars). Pastina to be added to chicken broth (everywhere).

Strangolapreti
(“priest-stranglers,” 15 x 40 mm). Rolled-up pasta made of soaked white bread, flour, egg, herbs, and cheese, served with cheese, butter, and sage (Trentino Alto Adige).

Strozzapreti
(“priest-chokers,” short rolled
bucatini
).
Al burro nero
(“dark” butter): browned with parsley (Basilicata).

Tagliatelle
(fresh pasta, length 300 mm).
Smalzade
,
smacafam
: cut strips of pasta coiled up into a “nest” and seasoned with melted lard (Trentino); with mountain goat meat and clover sprouts (Alto Adige);
alla veneta
: with veal, spicy salami paste, nutmeg, red wine, onion, and cream (Veneto); with lobster (Adriatic coast, Emilia Romagna); with salmon, milk, red onion, and tomato purée (Emilia Romagna); with mascarpone, egg yolk, and black pepper (Umbria); with mussels (Calabria).

Tagliatelle all'uovo
(egg noodles, 4.3–5.8 x 300 mm or more). With garlic butter (Emilia Romagna); with mascarpone (Emilia Romagna); with shrimp (Emilia Romagna).

Taglierini
(3 x 300 mm or more). With roast drippings (Piedmont).

Tagliolini
(flat, long, wound up in a ball, width of 2 mm). With herbs (sage, marjoram, rosemary, basil, parsley, and chives) and butter, egg yolk, and cream (Emilia Romagna).

Timau
(ravioli in a shape characteristic of the village of the same name). With poppy seeds (Friuli Venezia Giulia).

Tortelli
(ø 50 mm, with meat filling). With cream (Crema, Lombardy).

Tortellini
(ø 15–20 mm, with meat and cheese filling). With pumpkin and Cremona
mostarda
(Lombardy); with pork, egg, and three types of meat (Emilia Romagna).

Tortelloni
(ø 50–70 mm). With asparagus and mushrooms (Piedmont); with cuttlefish ink (Abruzzo).

Trenette
(ø 3.5 mm, length 300 mm or more). With pesto Genovese (Liguria);
alla marinara
: with tomatoes, parsley, seafood, and white wine (Liguria).

Trofie
(fresh pasta of wheat and chestnut flour, length 40 mm). With pesto Genovese (Liguria); with walnut sauce (Recco, Liguria).

Vermicelli
(ø 2.5 mm, length 20 mm). With light sauces. Eaten cold, mixed with vegetable salads (Campania);
alla partenopea
: with pecorino, tomatoes, and basil (Campania); with feta cheese and olives (Puglia);
alla pizzaiola
: with tomatoes, olive oil, oregano, and garlic (Campania); with grape snails (
carrozze
, carriages) (Calabria);
alla calabra
: with herring, bread crumbs, red pepper, and olive oil (Calabria),
mille cosedde
(a thousand little things): with fava beans, lentils, peas, white beans, cabbage, onion, carrot, celery, pancetta, and Pecorino (Calabria);
alla siracusana
: with ripe tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, black olives, capers, salted anchovies, garlic, basil, and grated Pecorino (Sicily).

Vincisgrassi
(broad, flat lasagna noodles, 100 mm wide). With brains and white truffle; baked in the oven with egg, onion, Marsala, and chicken giblets (Marches).

Ziti
or
zite
(ø 10–12 mm, 20–60 mm in length, hollow).
All'amalfitana
: with veal, carrots, white wine, pancetta, Caciocavallo cheese, and tomato purée (Campania); in tomato sauce (Sicily).