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Authors: James O'Reilly

Travelers' Tales Paris

BOOK: Travelers' Tales Paris
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C
RITICAL
A
CCLAIM FOR
T
RAVELERS
' T
ALES
P
ARIS

“To experience Paris is to smell it, taste it, hear it and, most important, to feel it.
Travelers' Tales Paris
is a guidebook for the senses — the real Paris experience.”

—Mark Eversman,
Paris Notes

“The book is a must for all those who relish the delights of new discoveries, those who enjoy getting lost, those who marvel at each encounter as it arises, those whose ultimate test of good-value travel is not in how much they spend but in how much they experience and savor.”

—
International Travel News

“The newest installment of this now well-known collection is probably the most enchanting.”

—
France Today

“...
Paris
by the Travelers' Tales bunch...is a whole bouquet of stories in, about, and encompassing Paris and environs. My own favorite is about a Versailles alternative but there are great excursions toward food, fashion, and folly as well.”

—Marilis Hornidge,
The Courier-Gazette

“This latest addition...proves that these are books you can count on; the editors of this series gather together some of the wiliest writers today, many of whom make their rather dubious livings on the road. The tales are current, accessible, often funny, infinitely digestible and not just peripherally about place. Destination aside, the writing in this book makes it an excellent value.

—Linda Watanabe McFerrin,
San Francisco Examiner

T
RAVELERS'
T
ALES
B
OOKS

Country and Regional Guides

America, Australia, Brazil, Central America, Cuba, France, Greece, India, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Mexico, Nepal, Spain, Thailand, Tibet, Turkey; American Southwest, Grand Canyon, Hawai‘i, Hong Kong, Paris, San Francisco, Tuscany

Women's Travel

Her Fork in the Road, A Woman's Path, A Woman's Passion for Travel, A Woman's World, Women in the Wild, A Mother's World, Safety and Security for Women Who Travel, Gutsy Women, Gutsy Mamas

Body & Soul

The Spiritual Gifts of Travel, The Road Within, Love & Romance, Food, The Fearless Diner, The Adventure of Food, The Ultimate Journey, Pilgrimage

Special Interest

Not So Funny When It Happened, The Gift of Rivers, Shitting Pretty, Testosterone Planet, Danger!, The Fearless Shopper, The Penny Pincher's Passport to Luxury Travel, The Gift of Birds, Family Travel, A Dog's World, There's No Toilet Paper on the Road Less Traveled, The Gift of Travel, 365 Travel, Adventures in Wine

Footsteps

Kite Strings of the Southern Cross, The Sword of Heaven, Storm, Take Me With You, Last Trout in Venice, The Way of the Wanderer, One Year Off, The Fire Never Dies

Classics

The Royal Road to Romance, Unbeaten Tracks in Japan, The Rivers Ran East, Coast to Coast, Trader Horn

 

T
RAVELERS
' T
ALES
PARIS

T
RUE
S
TORIES

 

T
RAVELERS
' T
ALES
PARIS

T
RUE
S
TORIES

Edited by

J
AMES
O'R
EILLY
    L
ARRY
H
ABEGGER

S
EAN
O'R
EILLY

T
RAVELERS'
T
ALES

S
AN
F
RANCISCO

Copyright © 2002, 1997 Travelers' Tales, Inc. All rights reserved.

Travelers' Tales
and
Travelers' Tales Guides
are trademarks of Travelers' Tales, Inc.

Credits and copyright notices for the individual articles in this collection are given starting on page 314.

We have made every effort to trace the ownership of all copyrighted material and to secure permission from copyright holders. In the event of any question arising as to the ownership of any material, we will be pleased to make the necessary correction in future printings. Contact Travelers' Tales, Inc., 330 Townsend Street, Suite 208, San Francisco, California 94107.
www.travelerstales.com

Art Direction: Michele Wetherbee

Interior design: Kathryn Heflin and Susan Bailey

Cover photograph:
©
Martine Mouchy/Getty Images. Eiffel Tower at night
.

Maps: Keith Granger

Page layout: Cynthia Lamb using the fonts Bembo and Boulevard

Distributed by:
Publishers Group West, 1700 Fourth Street, Berkeley, California 94710.

Library of Congress Cataloguing-in-Publication Data

Paris: true stories / edited by James O'Reilly, Larry Habegger, and Sean O'Reilly

p. cm. — (Travelers' Tales)

Includes bibliographical references and index

ISBN 978-1-60952-074-8

1. Paris (France)—Description and travel. 2. Paris (France)—Civilization.

I. O'Reilly, James, 1953- II. Habegger, Larry. III. O'Reilly, Sean.

IV. Travelers' Tales guides.

DC707.P2548 2002

914.3'36104—dc 21

2002010183

First Edition

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

 

 

Take those two words, gold and pleasure, for a lantern, and explore the great cage of Paris
.

—H
ONORÉ DE
B
ALZAC

Table of Contents

Preface

Map

Introduction

Part One

E
SSENCE OF
P
ARIS

Vive l'Argument

THOM ELKJER

Behind the Wheel

JOHN GREGORY DUNNE

The Gift

JOSEPH DIEDRICH

On the Left Bank

HERBERT GOLD

The Mystical Scarf-Tying Gene

LYNN SCHNURNBERGER

Le Paris Profond

JACK E. BRONSTON

St-Germain-des-Prés

SHUSHA GUPPY

The Concierge

EDMUND WHITE

The Hungry Museum

HELEN DUDAR

Excusez-Moi, Je Suis
Sick as a Dog

MARYALICIA POST

Within the Périphérique

JAN MORRIS

Part Two

S
OME
T
HINGS TO
D
O

The Empire of Death

LOREN RHOADS

Paris Rapture

MICHELE ANNA JORDAN

Illumined in Sainte-Chapelle

TIM O'REILLY

On Ile St-Louis

HERBERT GOLD

Bonjour, Chaos

DAVID ROBERTS

Monsieur
Fix-It

COLEMAN LOLLAR

The Source

MORT ROSENBLUM

In Notre Dame

DONALD W. GEORGE

Real Life House of Horrors

TARAS GRESCOE

The Fairy Palace

INA CARO

Part Three

G
OING
Y
OUR OWN
W
AY

My Idea of Paris

MAXINE ROSE SCHUR

Hair Pierre

CAILIN BOYLE

A Night in Gay Paree

HANNS EBENSTEN

Air Château

BOB BRADFIELD

Sacred Hill of the North

IRENE-MARIE SPENCER

Turkish Baths

LAWRENCE OSBORNE

Wounded and Healed

GEORGE VINCENT WRIGHT

Montreuil-sous-Bois

DAVID APPLEFIELD

The Frog and the Periscope

TISH CARNES BROWN

Part Four

I
N THE
S
HADOWS

Destination Paris

MARCEL F. LAVENTURIER

Bearing Witness

THÉRÈSE LUNG

Monsieur de Paris

ROBERT DALEY

La Photo

CORI KENICER

Fleeing the Splendor

INA CARO

Part Five

T
HE
L
AST
W
ORD

St-Julian the Poor

JULIAN GREEN

Recommended Reading

Glossary

Index

Index of Contributors

Acknowledgments

BOOK: Travelers' Tales Paris
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