The Time Traveller's Guide to Elizabethan England (69 page)

47
. Stubbes,
Anatomy
, pp. 40–1.

48
. Platter,
Travels
, p. 182.

49
. 1 Corinthians, ch. 11, v. 6; Stubbes,
Anatomy
, p. 40;
Tudor Tailor
, p. 28.

50
. Arnold,
Wardrobe
, p. 325, quoting BL Stowe 557, fol. 91.

51
. Quoted in Norris,
Costume
, ii, p. 552. See also
Tudor Tailor
, p. 33.

52
. This list is from the inventory of the glover William Hobday of Stratford, who died in 1601, quoted in Jeanne Jones,
Family Life in Shakespeare’s England
(Stroud, 1996), pp. 80–1.

53
. Arnold,
Wardrobe
, p. 332 (pelican); Doran,
Exhibition
, p. 107 (ship jewel).

54
.
Eliz. Home
, p. 95.

55
. Mortimer,
Probate
, p. 33. In saying this I am mindful especially of how very few probate inventories mention jewellery.

56
. Stubbes,
Anatomy
, p. 42.

57
. This apparently includes the queen. See Arnold,
Wardrobe
, p. 27, for her earrings being hung by pearls; look at almost all the painted portraits for her lack of piercings in her ears. However, the one by Federico Zuccaro, supposed to be of her at Sudeley Castle, clearly shows a pierced ear.

58
. Stubbes,
Anatomy
, pp. 49–50.

59
. Stubbes,
Anatomy
, p. 37.

60
. Horman,
Vulgaria
, ‘de cubicularibus’.

61
. Quoted in Scott,
EOaW
, p. 81.

62
. Doran,
Exhibition
, pp. 104–5.

63
. A boxwood pomander was found on the
Mary Rose
. See
Before the Mast
, p. 161.

64
. Quoted in Scott,
EOaW
, p. 80.

65
.
Eliz. Home
, pp. 1–2.

66
.
Tudor Tailor
, p. 16.

67
. Cunnington,
Underclothes
, p. 39.

68
. Phillis Cunnington and Catherine Lucas,
Occupational Costume in England
(1967, rep. 1968), p. 25.

69
.
Tudor Tailor
, p. 39.

70
. Stubbes,
Anatomy
, pp. 30–1;
Tudor Tailor
, p. 18; Norris,
Costume
, ii, 2, pp. 530, 542–4.

71
. Cunnington,
Underclothes
, pp. 41, 44.

72
. Andrew Boorde’s advice to a youth was to wear a ‘petticoat’ next to his shirt in winter, as was John Russell’s. See Furnivall (ed.),
Babees Book
, pp. 177, 247.

73
. Cunnington,
Underclothes
, p. 41.

74
.
Tudor Tailor
, pp. 18–19, 36.

75
. Stubbes,
Anatomy
, p. 29.

76
. Cunnington,
Underclothes
, p. 41; Stubbes,
Anatomy
, p. 26.

77
. Havinden,
Inventories
, pp. 249–50.

78
. Leather jerkins were the most common garment on the
Mary Rose
. See
Before the Mast
, p. 18.

79
.
Tudor Tailor
, pp. 18–20; Stubbes,
Anatomy
, p. 21; Picard,
London
, p. 128; Janet Arnold,
Patterns of Fashion: 1560–1620
, vol. 3 (1985), p. 6.

80
. Stubbes,
Anatomy
, p. 25.

81
. Havinden,
Inventories
, p. 86; Herridge,
Inventories
, p. 421.

82
. Herridge,
Inventories
, pp. 68, 217, 372.

83
. Claudius Hollyband,
The Italian Schoolmaster
(1597), [n.p., section on ‘familiar talks’].

84
. Stubbes,
Anatomy
, p. 18.

85
. Combs were among the most-common items found on the
Mary Rose
. See
Before the Mast
, p. 156.

86
. Stevenson, ‘Extracts’, p. 300 (lord’s rapier, 1581); Herridge,
Inventories
, p. 268.

87
. The armour quantifications are from Emanuel Green (ed.),
Certificate of Musters in the County of Somerset, temp. Elizabeth 1569
, Somerset Record Society, 20 (1904), pp. 3–6.

88
. See Arnold,
Wardrobe
, p. 139, for a nobleman wearing his damask nightgown to his execution.

89
.
Eliz. Home
, p. 111.

90
. Arnold,
Wardrobe
, pp. 139–40.

91
. Quoted in Norris,
Costume
, ii, p. 617.

92
. Arnold,
Wardrobe
, p. 7.

93
.
OED
quoting
Wardr. Acc. Hen. VIII
in
Archaeologia
, 9 (1789), p. 245: ‘one dussen brushes, and one dussen and a halfe of rubbers delyvered to like use into oure saide warderobe of our roobis’ [1536]; W. Warde translated by ‘Alessio’,
Secretes
(1558), i, v, p. 90: ‘To die hogges brystels and other thinges, for to make rubbers and brusshes.’ See also the images in Arnold,
Wardrobe
, p. 233.

94
. Arnold,
Wardrobe
, pp. 233–4.

95
. Emmison,
HWL
, p. 98.

96
. Dawson,
Jewel
, p. 151.

97
. Stow,
Survay
, Cordwainer Street Ward;
Port & Trade
.

98
. Stubbes,
Anatomy
, p. 31.

7. Travelling

1
. Emmison,
Disorder
, p. 14.

2
. Horman,
Vulgaria
, ‘de coniugalibus’: ‘Maydens that carry gere upon theyr head putte a wrethe of haye between the vessel and theyr heed to stay it from goglynge.’

3
. Markland, ‘Carriages’, p. 464.

4
. Markland, ‘Carriages’, p. 463; Holmes,
London
, p. 24.

5
. Arnold,
Wardrobe
, p. 231; Markland, ‘Carriages’, p. 463. Rippon made a coach for the earl of Rutland in 1564.

6
. Arnold,
Wardrobe
, p. 232. Three hundred carts are mentioned by Von Wedel (Arnold,
Wardrobe
, p. 232) and four hundred by Harrison,
Description
, book 3, ch. 1.

7
. Markland, ‘Carriages’, p. 463.

8
. Picard,
London
, p. 32.

9
. Markland, ‘Carriages’, pp. 458–9.

10
. Markland, ‘Carriages’, p. 469.

11
. Markland, ‘Carriages’, pp. 459, 462–3.

12
.
Sh. Eng
., i, p. 204.

13
.
Eliz. Home
, pp. 86, 96.

14
. Platter,
Travels
, p. 182.

15
. Shakespeare,
Merchant of Venice
, Act III, Scene 4.

16
. ‘There have been knights and lords and gentlemen with their coaches, coach after coach, letter after letter, gift after gift …’ Shakespeare,
Merry Wives of Windsor
, Act II, Scene 2.

17
. Picard,
London
, p. 33, quoting T. R. Forbes,
Chronicle from Aldgate
(1971).

18
.
Eliz. People
, p. 36, quoting John Stow.

19
. Quoted in Markland, ‘Carriages’, p. 466.

20
. Markland, ‘Carriages’, p. 465.

21
. Emmison,
HWL
, pp. 287–8.

22
. For example, Black,
Reign
, p. 263.

23
. Markland, ‘Carriages’, p. 458.

24
. 2 & 3 Philip and Mary, cap. 8 (1555); 5 Elizabeth, cap. 13 (1563); 18 Elizabeth, cap. 5 (1576); Emmison,
HWL
, pp. 242–3.

25
. Emmison,
Disorder
, pp. 17–19.

26
. Leland,
Itinerary
, i, pp. 221, 274. Eighty years later Thomas Westcote described Devon in the same way, breaking the whole county up into rivers, and describing the towns and principal residences according to the river valley in which they are situated. See George Oliver and Pitman Jones (eds), Thomas Westcote,
A View of Devonshire in MDCXXX
(1845).

27
. Emmison,
HWL
, p. 281.

28
. The queen fails to repair several bridges in Essex. See Emmison,
HWL
, p. 281.

29
.
Sh. Eng
., i, p. 200.

30
. Black,
Reign
, p. 264; Markland, ‘Carriages’, p. 444.

31
. Stevenson, ‘Extracts’, p. 295; Mortimer,
Probate
, p. 31.

32
. Overton, ‘Prices’, p. 130.

33
. Havinden,
Inventories
, pp. 135, 140. A ‘lame old horse’ is valued at 2s on p. 137.

34
. Black,
Reign
, p. 264; Herbert Joyce,
The History of the Post Office from its establishment down to 1836
(1893), pp. 2–5. The prices are from Black. I have read that the standard charge was 1d per mile as a result of an Act of 1548, and I suspect that the 3d per mile was not introduced until James I’s reign; but I cannot find any such Act among Edward VI’s statutes, and have therefore trusted Black.

35
. Edward Watson,
The Royal Mail to Ireland
(1917), pp. 9–10.

36
. Platter,
Travels
, p. 230.

37
.
Sh. Eng
., i, pp. 201–2.

38
. Scott,
EOaW
, p. 180, quoting Claudius Hollyband,
French Littleton
(1576).

39
. Magno, p. 149.

40
.
Sh. Eng
., i, p. 207. Black,
Reign
, p. 263, gives the same list.

41
. Emmison,
Disorder
, pp. 271–77, 308–10.

42
. Leland,
Itinerary
, i, p. 29.

43
. Platter,
Travels
, p. 152.

44
. Wilson, ‘State’, p. 37.

45
. Platter,
Travels
, p. 154.

46
. Magno, p. 143.

47
. Picard,
London
, p. 14.

48
. Hoskins,
Exeter
, p. 63.

49
. For another Act, see 13 Elizabeth, cap. 18 (1570), bringing the River Lea to the north of London.

50
. Gerard,
Autobiography
, p. 132.

51
. John Taylor, ‘the Waterpoet’, describes their use in a poem about a sinking vessel. Dowloaded from
http://ebooks.gutenberg.us/Renascence_Editions/taylor1.html#livbyp08
.

52
. Laughton,
Armada
, xlv;
Sh. Eng
., i, p. li.

53
. Laughton,
Armada
, xliv–xlv;
Sh. Eng
., i, pp. 156–7.

54
. Platter,
Travels
, pp. 150–1.

55
. N. A. M. Rodger,
The Safeguard of the Sea: A Naval History of Britain, Volume 1, 660–1649
(1997), p. 486; Harrison,
Description
.

56
. Wilson, ‘State’, pp. 36–7.

57
. Emmison,
HWL
, p. 62; Rose, ‘Navigation’, p. 178.

58
. Emmison,
HWL
, p. 59.

59
. Laughton,
Armada
, xliv–xlv;
Sh. Eng
., i, p. 358.

60
. Peter Earle,
The Last Fight of the Revenge
(1992), p. 56, quoting Dorothy O. Shilton and R. Holworthy,
High Court of Admiralty Examinations 1637–8
(1932), p. 18.

61
.
Before the Mast
, p. 272.

62
.
Before the Mast
, chapter six; Parry,
Reconnaissance
, chapters 5 and 6.

63
. Rose, ‘Navigation’; Parry,
Reconnaissance
, pp. 94–5, 113.

64
. These figures are from the bodies on the
Mary Rose
. See Marsden,
Noblest Shippe
, p. 155;
Before the Mast
, p. 520.