The Road to Grace (The Walk) (3 page)

Undeterred, she asked, “If you could go anywhere in the world, where would that be?”

I stopped and looked at her. “Home.” I turned and walked away.

I suppose I’m as unlikely a candidate to walk across the country as you could find. I was never one who, as Steinbeck wrote, was afflicted with “the urge to be someplace else.”

That’s not to say I haven’t traveled. I’ve done my share of it and I have the passport stamps to prove it. I’ve seen the Great Wall of China, the Hermitage in Russia, and the Roman Catacombs. Truthfully, all that travel wasn’t my idea. My wife, McKale, wanted to see the world, and I wanted to see her happy. Actually, I just wanted to see her, so I went along. The foreign locales were just different backdrops for my picture of her.

Her
. Every day I miss
her
. I may be a closet homebody, but life has taught me that home was never a place. Home was
her
. The day McKale died, I lost my home.

Up to the moment I lost McKale, I had lived my life as a liar. I don’t say that just because I was in advertising. (Though that qualifies me as a professional liar.) Ironically,
I was annoyingly honest in unimportant matters. For example, I once went inside a McDonald’s to return a dime when the gal at the drive-in window gave me too much change back. But I deceived myself about the things of greatest consequence. I told myself that McKale and I would be together until we were old and gray—that we were somehow guaranteed a certain amount of life before our time expired, like cartons of milk. Perhaps a certain amount of self-deception is necessary to get one through the day. But whatever we tell ourselves, it doesn’t change the truth: our lives are built on foundations of sand.

For those of you just joining my journey, my childhood sweetheart, my wife, McKale, broke her back in a horseback riding accident, paralyzing her from the waist down. Four weeks later she died of complications from her accident. During her last days, while I was caring for her, my business was stolen by my partner, Kyle Craig, and my financial world collapsed, leading to the foreclosure of my home and repossession of my cars.

With my wife, business, house, and cars gone, I contemplated taking my life. Instead, I packed a few things, said good-bye to Seattle, and started my walk to the farthest walkable distance on my map: Key West, Florida.

I suppose if I were completely honest with myself (which I’ve already established I’m not), I’d have to admit that I’m not really walking to Florida. Key West is as foreign to me as any of the towns I’ve walked through on the way. I’m walking to find what life may hold. I’m looking for hope. Hope that life might still be worth living, and hope for the grace to accept what I must live without.

Perhaps that’s true of all of us. I’m certainly not alone in my quest to find that grace. There are others I have met
on my journey. Like the elderly Polish man in Mitchell, South Dakota, who took me in; a young mother I stayed with in Sidney, Iowa; the old man I met in Hannibal roaming graveyards in search of his wife; and the woman I met as I walked out of my hotel in Custer, South Dakota. This is their story too.

Again, welcome to my walk.

Custer, South Dakota, is a tidy little tourist town near Mount Rushmore and the Crazy Horse Memorial. I spent two days in Custer, convalescing after a long and emotionally challenging stretch through eastern Wyoming. Sunday I was ready to resume my journey. It was a cool May morning and I rose with the sun, showered, and shaved. The luxuriousness of my temporary surroundings was not lost on me. In the weeks ahead, crossing through the barren stretch of South Dakota’s badlands, I would be without a soft bed and hot water.

I laid my road atlas open on the bed and studied it for a few minutes, drawing a path with my finger. Then, once I was committed to a course, I marked it in pen. My next target was thirteen hundred miles away: Memphis, Tennessee, by way of St. Louis. From Custer I would walk north until my path intersected with Interstate 90, then I’d walk east through South Dakota, through the badlands, about four hundred miles to Sioux Falls.

The night before I had washed five pairs of my socks in the hotel sink. They were all gray and threadbare and due to be retired. Unfortunately, they were also still damp. I put them in the dry-cleaning sack from the hotel closet and packed them into my backpack. Then I put on my sweat-stained socks from the day before, laced up my shoes, and headed out of the hotel.

As I walked through the hotel’s lobby I noticed a woman sitting in one of the chairs near the reception desk. She had gray hair, though she looked too young to be so gray. She wore a long, black woolen coat, and a burgundy silk scarf tied around her neck. She was beautiful, or had been once, and something about her was hard to look away from. Something about her looked familiar. Peculiarly, she
was likewise watching me with an intense gaze. When I was just a few yards from her she said, “Alan.”

I stopped. “Excuse me?”

“You
are
Alan Christoffersen?”

As I looked into her face I was certain we had met before, but I couldn’t place her. “Yes,” I said. “I am.” Then I realized who she was.

Before I could speak she said, “I’ve been looking for you for weeks.”

The woman was McKale’s mother.

“Pamela,” I said. It was a name I had never spoken without pain or anger—and usually both—a name that seemed to me, as a boy, and even as an adult, to represent everything wrong with the world. Pamela was the source of McKale’s greatest angst—a permanent sliver in her heart. There’s a good reason that I hadn’t recognized her immediately. I had met Pamela only once before, briefly, at McKale’s funeral and had said all I ever intended to say to her then.

“What do you want?” I asked.

“I was hoping to talk to you,” she said.

“About what?”

She swallowed nervously. “Everything.”

“Everything,” I repeated. I shook my head. “No. We have nothing to talk about.”

She looked upset, but not particularly surprised by my response. “I don’t blame you, but I’ve come a long way …”

I looked at her for a moment then lifted my pack. “So have I.” I turned from her and walked out the hotel’s front door.

The town of Custer was bustling with tourists and the traffic was brisk, the sidewalks along Mount Rushmore Road crowded with those who had come to see the monument. I planned on walking about twenty miles that day and I was ready for breakfast, though, admittedly, seeing Pamela had somewhat dulled my appetite.

I couldn’t believe she had come looking for me.
What could she possibly want to talk about?
After I had walked about a hundred yards from the hotel, I looked back. To my dismay Pamela was following me, walking about a block behind me on the same side of the street. She wore a sun visor and had a large pink bag draped over her shoulder.
Half a block later, I stepped into the Songbird Café—the restaurant the hotel clerk had recommended.

The café was small and crowded and the waitress had just seated me at a round table in the corner when the bell above the door rang and Pamela walked in. She held her bag in both hands and glanced furtively at me as she waited to be seated. Fortunately, the hostess led her to a table on the opposite side of the room, where she stayed. I was glad that she didn’t come to my table. I would have left if she had.

I wolfed down my breakfast—a tall stack of buttermilk pancakes with two fried eggs, three strips of overdone bacon, and a cup of coffee. I paid my bill, then slipped on my heavy backpack and walked out. Pamela was still sitting at her table, sipping coffee, her dark eyes following me.

I crossed to the other side of the street and walked several blocks back toward the hotel, turning in the middle of town at the 16 Junction. I followed the highway north toward the Crazy Horse Memorial. There was more than one route to I-90 from Custer, but 16 would lead me back by the monument, which, if not a shorter route, seemed more interesting.

When I got to the top of the hill above Custer I glanced back at the town. Unbelievably, Pamela was there, walking a quarter mile behind me. I shook my head. Did she really intend to follow me? I doubted that she was in the physical condition to keep up with me. She didn’t even have the shoes for it. If she thought I was going to stop and wait for her she was sadly mistaken.

The first three miles from the city were mostly uphill and Pamela quickly fell back until I couldn’t see her anymore. Less than a half hour from Custer she was nowhere
to be seen. I wondered what McKale would have thought of the situation. The mother she had spent her life longing for was chasing me.

Four miles out of Custer I reached the
Avenue of the Chiefs
. I was still enamored with Korczak’s work (will forever be), so I took a short detour and walked up to the park entrance. There’s a ten-dollar admission fee to the park, and I didn’t have the time or inclination to walk all the way to the monument, so I just stood at the entrance and admired the work from a distance. I wondered if the massive sculpture would be completed during my lifetime. I hoped so. Even as an old man, I would definitely return to see the finished piece. Suddenly my heart ached. The idea of growing old without McKale filled me with intense loneliness. I turned back toward the highway and resumed my walk.

The road after Crazy Horse was mostly steep downgrade with wide shoulders and only a few buildings along the way, including a business offering helicopter rides to the monuments.

I stopped in Pennington County and ate lunch out of my pack. I had an apple, a granola bar, and a slightly smashed ham and Swiss sandwich I had purchased the day before at the grocery store in Custer.

As I ate, my thoughts returned to Pamela—along with my anger. I wondered how far she had walked before she had turned back. I also wondered how she had found me. After a few minutes I pushed her from my mind. The thought of her following me overwhelmed me with disgust. I finished eating then got back on the road.

The next few hours were ideal walking conditions—smooth, new roads with black asphalt, wide shoulders, clean air, and a beautiful mountain setting—something I
appreciated more after my long walk through the desolation of eastern Wyoming.

The sun had begun its decline when I heard a car pull up behind me and roll to a quick stop, gravel crunching beneath its wheels. I turned around to see an aged, turquoise Chevy truck with a matching camper top, stopped about fifty feet behind me. The passenger side door opened and Pamela stepped out of the vehicle. She said something to the driver, then swung her bag over her shoulder and continued walking after me. I groaned.
She’s as persistent as McKale
, I thought. Maybe persistence is genetic. If McKale wanted something she didn’t stop until she got it.