The Mammoth Book of Travel in Dangerous Places (56 page)

Thursday, April 25
From Camp No. 2. – Awoke at five o’clock, after a most refreshing night’s rest. The sky was beautifully clear and the air rather
chilly. We had scarcely finished breakfast when our friends the blacks, from whom we obtained the fish, made their appearance with a few more, and seemed inclined to go with us and keep up the
supply. We gave them some sugar, with which they were greatly pleased. They are by far the most well-behaved blacks we have seen on Cooper’s Creek. We did not get away from the camp until
half-past nine a.m., continuing our course down the most southern branch of the creek, which keeps a general S.W. course. We passed across the stony point which abuts on one of the largest
waterholes in the creek, and camped at half-past twelve about a mile below the most dangerous part of the rocky path. At this latter place we had an accident that might have resulted badly for us.
One of the camels fell while crossing the worst part, but we fortunately got him out with only a few cuts and bruises. The waterhole at this camp is a very fine one, being several miles long.

Friday, April 26
From Camp No. 3. – Last night was beautifully calm, and comparatively warm, although the sky was very clear. Reloaded the camels by moonlight this
morning, and started at a quarter to six. Striking off to the south of the creek, we soon got on a native path, which leaves the creek just below the stony ground, and takes a course nearly west
across a piece of open country, bounded on the south by sand-ridges, and on the north by the scrubby ground which flanks the bank of the creek at this part of its course. Leaving the path on the
right at a distance of three miles, we turned up a small creek which passes down between some sand-hills; and finding a nice patch of feed for the camels at a waterhole, we halted at fifteen
minutes past seven for breakfast. We started again at fifty minutes past nine a.m. Continuing our westerly course along the path we crossed to the S. of the watercourse above the water, and
proceeded over the most splendid saltbush country that one could wish to see, bounded on the left by sand-hills, whilst to the right the peculiar-looking flat-topped sandstone ranges form an
extensive amphitheatre, through the far side of the arena of which may be traced the dark line of creek timber. At twelve o’clock we camped in the bed of the creek. This comparative rest, and
the change in diet, have also worked wonders, however; the leg-tied feeling is now entirely gone, and I believe that in less than a week we shall be fit to undergo any fatigue whatever. The camels
are improving, and seem capable of doing all that we are likely to require of them. To Camp No. 4.

Saturday, April 27
We started at six o’clock, and, following the native path, which at about a mile from our camp takes a southerly direction, we soon came to the
high sandy alluvial deposit, which separates the creek at this point from the stony rises. Here we struck off from the path, keeping well to the S. of the creek, in order that we might mess in a
branch of it that took a southerly direction. At twenty minutes past nine we came in on the creek again where it runs due south, and halted for breakfast at a fine waterhole, with fine fresh feed
for the camels. Here we remained until noon, when we moved on again, and camped at one o’clock on a general course; having been throughout the morning S.W. eight miles. The weather is most
agreeable and pleasant; nothing could be more favourable for us up to the present time. To Camp No. 5.

Sunday, April 28
From Camp No. 5. – Morning fine and calm, but rather chilly. Started at a quarter to five a.m., following down the bed of a creek in a westerly
direction, by moonlight. Our stage was, however, very short, for about a mile one of the camels (Landa) got bogged by the side of a waterhole, and although we tried every means in our power, we
found it impossible to get him out. All the ground beneath the surface was a bottomless quicksand, through which the beast sank too rapidly for us to get bushes or timber fairly beneath him, and
being of a very sluggish stupid nature, he could never be got to make sufficiently strenuous efforts towards extricating himself. In the evening, as a last chance, we let the water in from the
creek, so as to buoy him up and at the same time soften the ground about his legs, but it was of no avail. The brute lay quietly in it as if he quite enjoyed his position. To Camp No. 6.

Monday, April 29
– From Camp No. 6. – Finding Landa still in the hole, we made a few attempts at extricating him, and then shot him; and after breakfast
commenced cutting off what flesh we could get at, for jerking.

Tuesday, April 30
Camp No. 6. – Remained here to-day for the purpose of drying the meat, for which process the weather is not very favourable.

Wednesday, May 1
From Camp No. 6. – Started at twenty minutes to nine, having loaded our only camel, Rajah, with the most necessary and useful articles, and packed
up a small swag each of bedding and clothing for our own shoulders. We kept on the right bank of the creek for about a mile, and then crossed over at a native camp to the left, where we got on a
path running due west, the creek having turned to the N. Following the path, we crossed an open plain, and then sand-ridges, whence we saw the creek straight ahead of us, running nearly S. again.
The path took us to the southernmost point of the bend, in a distance of about two and a-half miles from where we had crossed the creek, thereby saving us from three to four miles, as it cannot be
less than six miles round by the creek. To Camp No. 7.

Thursday, May 2
Camp No. 7. – Breakfasted by moonlight, and started at half-past six. Following down the left bank of the creek in a westerly direction, we came, at
a distance of six miles, on a lot of natives, who were camped on the bed of a creek. They seemed to have just breakfasted, and were most liberal in the presentations of fish and cake. We could only
return the compliment by some fishhooks and sugar. About a mile further on, we came to a separation of the creek, where what looked like the main branch looked towards the south. This channel we
followed, not, however, without some misgivings as to its character, which were soon increased by the small and unfavourable appearance that the creek assumed. On our continuing along it a little
further, it began to improve, and widened out, with fine waterholes of considerable depth. The banks were very steep, and a belt of scrub lined it on either side. This made it very inconvenient for
travelling, especially as the bed of the creek was full of water for considerable distances. At eleven a.m., we halted until half past one p.m., and then moved on again, taking a S.S.W. course for
about two miles, when, at the end of a very long waterhole, it breaks into billibongs, which continue splitting into sandy channels until they are all lost in the earthy soil of a box forest.
Seeing little chance of water ahead, we turned back to the end of the long waterhole, and camped for the night. On our way back, Rajah showed signs of being done up. He had been trembling greatly
all the morning. On this account his load was further lightened to the amount of a few pounds, by the doing away with the sugar, ginger, tea, cocoa, and two or three tin-plates. To camp No. 8.

Friday, May 3
Camp No. 8. – Started at seven a.m., striking off in a northerly direction for the main creek. At a mile and a-half came to a branch which (left
unfinished.) To camp No. 9.

Saturday, May 4
Junction from Camp No. 9. – Night and morning very cold. Sky clear, almost calm; occasionally a light breath of air from south. Rajah appears to
feel the cold very much. He was so stiff this morning as to be scarcely able to get up with his load. Started to return down the creek at 6.45, and halted for breakfast at nine a.m., at the same
spot as we breakfasted at yesterday. Proceeding from there down the creek, we soon found a repetition of the features that were exhibited by the creek examined on Thursday. At a mile and a-half we
came to the last water-hole, and below that the channel became more sandy and shallow, and continued to send off billibongs to the south and west, slightly changing its course each time until it
disappeared altogether in a north-westerly direction. Leaving King with the camel, we went on a mile or two to see if we could find water, and being unsuccessful, we were obliged to return to where
we had breakfasted, as being the best place for feed and water.

Sunday, May 5
To Camp No. 10. – Started by myself to reconnoitre the country in a southerly direction, leaving Mr. Burke and King with the camel at Camp No. 10.
Travelled S. W. by S. for two hours, following the course of the most southerly billibongs. Found the earthy soil becoming more loose and cracked up, and the box-track gradually disappearing.
Changed course to west, for a high sand ridge, which I reached in one hour and a half, and continuing in the same direction to one still higher, obtained from it a good view of the surrounding
country. To the north were the extensive box forests bounding the creek on either side. To the east earthy plains intersected by water-courses and lines of timber, and bounded in the distance by
sand-ridges. To the south the projection of the sand-ridge partially intercepted the view; the rest was composed of earthy plains, apparently clothed with chrysanthemums. To the westward, another
but smaller plain was bounded also by high sand-ridges, running nearly parallel with the one on which I was standing. This dreary prospect offering no encouragement for me to proceed, I returned to
Camp 10 by a more direct and better route than I had come, passing over some good saltbush land, which borders on the billibongs to the westward.

Monday, May 6
From Camp No. 10 back to Camp No. 9. – Moved up the creek again to Camp No. 9, at the junction, to breakfast, and remained the day there. The present
state of things is not calculated to raise our spirits much. The rations are rapidly diminishing; our clothing especially the boots, are all going to pieces, and we have not the materials for
repairing them properly; the camel is completely done up, and can scarcely get along, although he has the best of feed, and is resting half his time. I suppose this will end in our having to live
like the blacks for a few months.

Tuesday, May 7
Camp No. 9. – Breakfasted at daylight, but when about to start, found that the camel would not rise, even without any load on his back. After making
every attempt to get him up, we were obliged to leave him to himself. Mr. Burke and I started down the creek to reconnoitre. At about eleven miles we came to some blacks fishing. They gave us some
half-a-dozen fish each for luncheon, and intimated that if we would go to their camp, we should have some more, and some bread. I tore in two a piece of macintosh stuff that I had, and Mr. Burke
gave one piece, and I the other. We then went on to their camp, about three miles further. They had caught a considerable quantity of fish, but most of them were small.

On our arrival at the camp, they led us to a spot to camp on, and soon afterwards brought a lot of fish and bread, which they call nardoo. The lighting a fire with matches
delights them, but they do not care about having them. In the evening, various members of the tribe came down with lumps of nardoo and handfuls of fish, until we were positively unable to eat any
more. They also gave us some stuff they call bedgery, or pedgery. It has a highly intoxicating effect, when chewed even in small quantities. It appears to be the dried stems and leaves of some
shrub.

Wednesday, May 8
Left the blacks’ camp at half-past seven, Mr. Burke returning to the junction, whilst I proceeded to trace down the creek. This I found a shorter
task than I had expected, for it soon showed signs of running out, and at the same time kept considerably to the north of west. There were several fine waterholes within about four miles of the
camp I had left, but not a drop all the way beyond that, a distance of seven miles. Finding that the creek turned greatly towards the north, I returned to the blacks’ encampment; and, as I
was about to pass, they invited me to stay. So I did so, and was even more hospitably entertained than before, being on this occasion offered a share of a gunyah, and supplied with plenty of fish
and nardoo, as well as a couple of nice fat rats. The latter I found most delicious. They were baked in the skins. Last night was clear and calm, but unusually warm. We slept by a fire, just in
front of the blacks’ camp. They were very attentive in bringing us firewood, and keeping the fire up during the night.

Thursday, May 9
Parted from my friends, the blacks, at half-past seven, and started for Camp No.9.

Friday, May 10
Camp No.9. – Mr. Burke and King employed in jerking the camel’s flesh, whilst I went out to look for the nardoo seed, for making bread. In this
I was unsuccessful, not being able to find a single tree of it in the neighbourhood of the camp. I however tried boiling the large kind of bean which the blacks call padlu; they boil easily, and
when shelled are very sweet, much resembling in taste the French chesnut. They are to be found in large quantities nearly everywhere.

Saturday, May 11
Camp No.9. – To-day Mr. Burke and King started down the creek for the blacks’ camp, determined to ascertain all particulars about the nardoo.
I have now my turn at the meat jerking, and must divise some means for trapping the birds and rats, which is a pleasant prospect after our dashing trip to Carpentaria, having to hang about
Cooper’s Creek, living like the blacks.

Sunday, May 12
Mr. Burke and King returned this morning, having been unsuccessful in their search for the blacks, who, it seems, have moved over to the other branch of
the creek. Decided on moving out on the main creek tomorrow, and then trying to find the natives of the creek.

Monday, May 13
Shifted some of the things, and brought them back again, Mr. Burke thinking it better for one to remain here with them for a few days, so as to eat the
remains of the fresh meat, whilst the others went in search of the blacks and nardoo.