The Explorers (26 page)

In the course of half an hour we reached a rapid torrent flowing towards the lake from the south-west. I named it the River Hügel in honour of Baron Charles Hügel of Vienna—and a few paces further we met another larger stream coming from the north-west and joining the Hügel close to the point of our crossing. This river I named Cuvier after the great naturalist who has by his genius and researches added so extensively to human knowledge.

The opposite bank of this river was steep but thinly wooded and small wet marshes were every here and there interspersed. These clear patches occurred more frequently as we advanced, and after proceeding about a mile we emerged into a long open valley—quite free from timber save a few ornamental clumps of small gum trees. This beautiful valley extended in a north-west direction beyond the great mountain, skirting its base; the Cuvier wound through its centre. On the south-west it was confined by a range of lofty hills apparently separating it from the Hügel. On the north-east it was bounded by the great mountain and its minor ridges.

The discovery of this valley, into which we were ushered so opportunely by chance, gave—as may be conceived—a high zest to the excursion, the more especially as we had been prepared to encounter nothing but the most embarrassing forests. We pushed on rapidly to the foot of the mountain, only halting occasionally to sketch the scenery, or map the country, and before eleven o'clock we found ourselves fairly at the foot of the object of our ambition, its stupendous groups of columns hanging over our heads in the most imposing manner.

We chose the most abrupt point of ascent, and were not disappointed in our hope of finding a crevice between the pillars through which we could clamber. In one hour and twenty minutes we reached the top—hands and feet bearing a pretty equal share in the process—and, on assembling the party at the summit, the little remaining breath was devoted to three hearty cheers and we named the mountain—Olympus.

The view from this point was beyond all description—the whole of Lake Saint Clair lay at our feet with its beautiful bays and its golden beaches, and in addition we could descry at least twenty other lakes of various dimensions in different parts of the panorama. Two in particular attracted our especial notice and admiration by their beauty. They were both situated near Saint Clair's and I named these lakes Petrarch and Laura. The former lay at the north-west extremity of Cuvier's valley and gave rise to the river of that name, the latter deeply embosomed in the woody hills on the north side of Saint Clair's. The whole of the country to the north was intersected by lofty alps; the northeastern country was high and tabular, abounding in lakes. The west too exhibited many chains of mountains and the ocean beyond; the well-known mountain at Macquarie Harbour—called Frenchman's Cap—being a conspicuous object in that direction, but towards the south-east the eye ranged over extensive plains watered by the Derwent.

We found no water on the top of Mount Olympus but after a long search we fortunately discovered a patch of snow, and mixing it with sugar and ginger in our tin cups it was converted into a most refreshing repast. We passed several hours on the summit of this mountain, making every observation which the object of the expedition prompted and it was with reluctance that I commenced the descent after the sun had sunk beneath the horizon of the western ocean.

J
OHN
B
ATMAN

Batmania, 1835

John Batman, who sailed from Van Diemen's Land to explore the Port Phillip district, was not a modest man. He named Batman Creek ‘after my good self', and I'm sure he would have been delighted if Melbourne had retained the name of its founder. Doubtless, the name of the city of Batman with its crowds of Batmanians would eventually have become commonplace—but the same colonial sycophancy that lumbered us with the name Sydney ensured that Melbourne would prevail.

What Batman thought he was doing by getting Bungett and Jagajaga to draw sacred designs on a tree, by way of concluding his purchase of 600,000 acres of tribal land in exchange for a barrow load of trinkets, God only knows.

Friday 29 May 1835—This morning as soon as daylight appeared saw the heads of Port Phillip about eight miles off. With a fair wind we got between the heads about nine o'clock a.m., the tide running out, nearly low water. A very heavy surf running at the entrance. The wind was light, and with some difficulty we got in; width about one mile and a quarter, the depth five-and-a-half to seven fathoms of water. We got well into the port about ten o'clock, where the water is very smooth, and one of the finest basins of water I ever saw, and most extensive. I would not recommend anyone to come in until the tide was running in, when the surf is smooth at the mouth.

As we were sailing up the port heard a dog on the shore howling. Cannot think what brought it there. Just called upon deck to see about one hundred geese flying near the vessel; they seemed very large, and flew up the port before us. We anchored in a small bay about twelve miles up the port, and went on shore. Before we got into the boat we saw a dog on the sand. We put off and came up to the dog, which proved to be a native dog of New Holland, which had surely left the natives within a day or so, as he came quite close to my natives, and did not appear at all afraid, but would not allow them to take hold of him. Our dogs, after some time, took after him, and ran him into the water, where we shot him. He was a large dog, and much the same I have seen in New South Wales. We fell in with the tracks of the natives, which was only a day or two old; also huts on the bay where they had been eating mussels…

Saturday 30 May 1835—…I went on shore to look at the land, which appeared beautiful, with scarcely any timber on. On my landing I found the hills of a most superior description—beyond my most sanguine expectations. The land excellent and very rich—and light black soil, covered with kangaroo grass two feet high, and as thick as it could stand. Good hay could be made, and in any quantity. The trees were not more than six to the acre, and those small she-oak and wattle. I never saw anything equal to the land in my life. I walked over a considerable extent, and all of the same description. This land forms an isthmus which is about twenty miles long by ten across it—upwards of 100,000 acres of good land or more. I could see five or six miles in every direction. Most of the high hills was covered with grass to the summit, and not a tree, although the land was as good as land could be. The whole appeared like land laid out in farms for some one hundred years back, and every tree transplanted. I was never so astonished in my life…We anchored in three fathoms water and, to my joy and delight, we saw at some distance the natives' fire. I intend to go off to them early in the morning and get, if possible, on a friendly footing with them in order to purchase land etc. from them…

Sunday 31 May 1835—…At daylight this morning we landed, to endeavour to meet the natives. We had not proceeded more than one and a half mile when we saw the smoke at seven large huts. My natives stripped off and went up to them quite naked. When they got to the huts, found that they had left this morning. Then, with the natives, went round, and found by their tracks the direction they went in. We followed on the tracks for ten miles or nearly, when Stomert, one of my natives, saw a black at the distance of a mile. We were at this time spread along. He made a sign to us, and all made in the same direction. He came up to the person (an old woman), quite cripple. She had no toes on one foot.

We then saw the remainder of the tribe about a mile further on. We made towards them, and got up to them about one o'clock p.m. They seemed quite pleased with my natives, who could partially understand them. They sang and danced for them. I found them to be only women and children: twenty of the former and twenty-four of the latter. The women were all of a small size, and every woman had a child at her back except one, who was quite a young woman and very good-looking. We understood that the men went up the river. They had four native dogs, and every woman had a load of sixty pounds or seventy pounds on her back, of one thing or another.
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Each had two or three baskets, net-bags, native tomahawks, bones etc. I found in one of the net-bags a part of a strake of a cart-wheel, which had two nail holes in. They had ground it down to a sharp edge, and put it in a stick to cut with as a tomahawk. They had also several pieces of iron hoop, ground sharp to cut with; several wooden buckets to carry water in. They had some water with them, which was very bad.

They came back with us to where I had some blankets, looking-glasses, beads, handkerchiefs, sugar, apples. I gave them eight pair blankets, thirty handkerchiefs, one tomahawk, eighteen necklaces of beads, six pounds sugar, twelve looking-glasses, a quantity of apples, which they seemed well pleased with. They then went off again. I promised to see them again tomorrow. The young woman, who I have spoke of before, gave me a very handsome basket of her own make. Other women gave me two others; also some spears. I got a native bucket, which I brought on board with me…I never saw or could suppose there could be so extensive plains as I saw today. Five thousand sheep would be almost lost upon them. But the only thing I see at present is the want of water, but am sure it could be obtained by digging in almost any place. The children were good-looking, and of an healthy appearance; they were dreadfully affrighted by the discharge of a gun, and all of them dropped down immediately. I think they never heard the report or saw a gun before. We saw a great number of wild turkeys today, but could not shoot one. We could not have walked less than thirty miles today.

Monday 1 June 1835—We left the vessel this morning at daybreak, and went round a bay to look at and examine some plains and clear hills at a distance, which looked very well. We crossed the neck of land and came to a small river or creek, which we were obliged to follow up, as we could not cross, and I also expected to find at the head of it some fresh water. We followed this stream about ten miles. We saw great numbers of ducks and teal. The creek was about fifty to sixty yards wide, in some places less.

We saw several places on going up which the natives had made with stones across the creek, to take fish, I suppose, in summer time. The walls were built of stones about four feet high, and well done and well planned out; two or three of these places following each other down the stream with gates to them, which they appear to stop with a bundle of bushes. We saw those in about ten or twelve different places up this stream.

On this stream we also met with the bones of an animal or beast of some kind which I had never met with before, and cannot accurately describe it. I counted twenty-four joints in the backbone, which is at least three inches each, therefore the animal must have been upwards of six feet in length. It must have been killed some time, and part of the bones were burnt. There may have been a greater number of bones in the back than I have seen. I have brought on board part of the head, thigh bones, and some joints of the back for the learned gents to study over on my return to Van Diemen's Land.
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Saturday 6 June 1835—The wind blew hard all night with some rain. We started this morning at eight and went to find the natives. We travelled over as good a country as I have yet met with and if possible richer land, thinly timbered. The grass was mostly three and four feet high and as thick as it could lie on the ground. The land quite black. We walked about eight miles when we fell in with the tracks of the natives, and shortly after came up with a family: one chief, his wife and three children. I gave him a pair of blankets, handkerchiefs, beads and three knives. He then went on with us and crossed a freshwater creek. The land on each side excellent. He took us on, saying he would take us to the tribe and mentioned the names of chiefs.

We walked about eight miles when, to our great surprise, we heard several voices calling after us. On looking back we saw eight men all armed with spears etc. etc When we stopped they threw aside their weapons and came very friendly up to us. After shaking hands, and my giving them tomahawks, knives etc., they took us with them about a mile back, where we found huts, women and children. After some time and full explanation, I found eight chiefs amongst them who possessed the whole of the territory near Port Phillip. Three brothers, all of the same name, were the principal chiefs, and two of them men of six feet high and very good-looking; the other not so tall, but stouter. The other five chiefs were fine men. After a full explanation of what my object was, I purchased two large tracts of land from them—about 600,000 acres, more or less, and delivered over to them blankets, knives, looking-glasses, tomahawks, beads, scissors, flour etc. etc., as payment for the land; and also agreed to give them a tribute or rent yearly. The parchment the eight chiefs signed this afternoon, delivering to me some of the soil, each of them, as giving me full possession of the tracts of land. This took place alongside of a beautiful stream of water, and from whence my land commences, and where a tree is marked four ways to know the corner boundary. The country about here exceeds anything I ever saw, both for grass and richness of soil. The timber light, and consists of she-oak and small gum, with a few wattle. My natives gave the chiefs and their tribe a grand corroboree tonight. They seemed quite delighted with it. Each of the principal chiefs has two wives and several children each. In all, the tribe consists of forty-five—men, women and children.