The Essential James Beard Cookbook (66 page)

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Authors: James Beard

BOOK: The Essential James Beard Cookbook

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Line the bottom of a 9-inch trifle bowl or soufflé dish with the ladyfingers. Liberally sprinkle them with the whiskey, but do not make them soggy. Let stand for 15 minutes.

Spread the ladyfingers with a thick layer of raspberry preserves. Cover with the crème anglaise and chill for 3 to 4 hours.

Just before serving, whip the cream in a chilled bowl until it stands in soft peaks, then beat in the sugar and 1 or 2 tablespoons Irish whiskey. Cover the surface of the crème anglaise with the whipped cream, smoothing it evenly with a rubber spatula. Sprinkle the chopped nuts over the top. Serve chilled, but do not let stand in the refrigerator for more than 30 minutes, or it will become soggy.

ICE-TRAY APRICOT ICE CREAM

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

If you are making ice cream in an ice-tray, I find it advisable to use a slightly different mixture and to whip the cream, the result of which is nearer a frozen cream or a very rich, creamy version of sherbet. As it is very difficult to get luscious, ripe apricots these days, I made this ice cream with apricot preserves, which works beautifully.

Editor: In this recipe, Beard shows how to make ice cream without an ice cream machine. You can use a metal 13 by 9-inch baking pan instead of the old-fashioned ice trays with removable ice cube molds.

1½ cups apricot preserves

1 cup water

¹⁄
₃cup sugar

1½ cups heavy cream

Rub the preserves through a wire sieve with a wooden spoon or put through a food mill.

Boil the water and sugar together for 5 minutes to make a simple syrup, then cool until cold. Combine the apricot purée and the syrup, mixing well.

Whip the heavy cream in a chilled bowl with an electric mixer until it is doubled in volume and holds its shape when the beater is lifted. Fold the cream thoroughly into the apricot mixture with a rubber spatula, then pour the mixture into metal ice trays. Freeze until frozen around the edges and mushy in the center. Remove, turn into a bowl, and beat with a wooden spatula until smooth. Return to the trays and freeze again. Repeat the freezing and beating process 1 or 2 times. This will take a few hours. Cover with plastic wrap, return to freezer, and freeze until hard enough to scoop, about 2 hours more. The beating process keeps the ice cream from forming ice crystals and makes it smooth.

FROZEN LEMON MOUSSE

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

This very simple form of frozen dessert mousse is made with a thick, cooked lemon mixture, which the English call “lemon curd,” lightened by whipped cream, that can also be used, unfrozen, as a filling for a jelly roll. As this mixture is not quite as firm as one containing gelatin, it is advisable not to unmold it.

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter

1½ cups sugar

Grated zest of 1 large lemon

Juice of 3 large lemons

¼ teaspoon plain salt

3 large eggs plus 3 large egg yolks

1 cup heavy cream

Melt the butter in the top part of a double boiler over barely simmering water (the water should not touch the bottom of the insert). Whisk in the sugar, lemon zest and juice, and salt. Beat the eggs and yolks together with a whisk in a medium bowl, and add to the ingredients in the double boiler. Cook over the barely simmering water, whisking constantly, until the mixture is smooth and glossy, and very thick, 3 to 5 minutes. Do not let the curd boil, or it will curdle. Strain into a bowl, press a piece of plastic wrap directly on the curd to keep a skin from forming, and let cool in the refrigerator.

When the lemon curd is cold, whip the cream in a chilled bowl with a whisk or electric mixer until it holds soft peaks. Fold the whipped cream into the lemon curd with a rubber spatula until thoroughly combined. Pour into a metal serving bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and freeze until firm and set, about 6 hours. Serve from the bowl.

FROZEN MOCHA PARFAIT

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

Editor: Another “too-easy-to-be-true” dessert that is, nonetheless, elegant enough to serve to company.

½ cup sugar

½ cup water

1½ teaspoons instant coffee

One 6-ounce package semisweet chocolate chips

2 large eggs, at room temperature

1½ cups heavy cream

Combine the sugar, water, and instant coffee in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Boil for 3 minutes. Put the chocolate chips in a blender or food processor and add the coffee mixture. Blend for 6 seconds to start to melt the chocolate. Add the eggs and blend for 1 minute, until the mixture is light and fluffy. Transfer to a bowl and let cool without setting. Whip the cream in another bowl with an electric mixer until the cream forms soft peaks. Fold in the chocolate coffee mixture. Pour into a 13 by 9-inch metal baking pan, cover with plastic wrap, and freeze for about 4 hours, or until firm. Scoop into dessert dishes and serve.

RAISIN AND CHESTNUT ICE CREAM

MAKES 8 SERVINGS

Editor: Be sure to purchase unsweetened chestnuts. You might want to use vacuum-packed chestnuts instead of the canned variety.

1 cup dark seedless raisins

¼ cup Scotch

1 cup sugar

6 large egg yolks

¹⁄
₈teaspoon plain salt

2 cups whole milk

1 quart heavy cream

½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise, or 4½ teaspoons vanilla extract

½ cup cooked and finely chopped unsweetened chestnuts or drained canned chestnuts

In a small bowl, soak the raisins in the Scotch until they plump up, about 1 hour. Drain well.

Whisk the sugar, egg yolks, and salt together in a heavy-bottomed medium saucepan until the mixture is pale and creamy. Meanwhile, in another pan, heat the milk to the boiling point. First mix a bit of the hot milk into the egg mixture to temper the eggs, stirring constantly. Then add the remaining milk. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spatula, until the custard is thick enough to lightly coat the spatula. Strain the custard into a bowl and let cool. Stir in the heavy cream and the tiny seeds from the vanilla bean. Pour the mixture into an electric ice cream maker and churn according to the manufacturer’s directions. During the last few minutes of churning, add the drained raisins and chestnuts. Transfer to an airtight container and freeze until firm enough to scoop, at least 2 hours.

VARIATION

GINGER AND MACADAMIA NUT ICE CREAM:
Omit the soaked raisins, vanilla bean, and chestnuts. Drain a 10-ounce jar of preserved candied ginger in syrup, reserving the syrup. Chop the ginger; you should have about 1 cup ginger and ½ cup syrup. Flavor the custard-cream mixture with 2 teaspoons vanilla extract and ¼ teaspoon ground ginger. Churn until frozen. During the last few minutes of churning, add the chopped ginger, syrup, and 1 cup toasted and coarsely chopped macadamia nuts. Transfer to an airtight container and freeze until firm enough to scoop, at least 2 hours.

FROZEN ZABAGLIONE

MAKES 8 SERVINGS

Editor: You will
not
need an ice cream maker to create this smooth frozen dessert.

½ envelope (about 1 teaspoon) unflavored gelatin

2 tablespoons cold water

8 large egg yolks

1 cup Marsala, Cognac, or Port

²⁄
₃cup sugar

Grated zest of 1 large lemon

3 tablespoons Grand Marnier or other orange-flavored liqueur

2 cups heavy cream, whipped

Sprinkle the gelatin over the cold water in a ramekin and set aside to soften, about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, whisk the egg yolks very well in the top part of a double boiler until thickened. Whisk in the Marsala, sugar, and lemon zest. Whisk over slightly boiling water (the water should not touch the bottom of the insert) until hot and fluffy. Remove the insert from the water, add the gelatin, and whisk until dissolved. Transfer the boiler insert to a bowl of iced water. Add the Grand Marnier and whisk until the mixture is cool but not set. Fold in the whipped cream. Spoon the mixture into individual dishes or a metal mold. Cover with plastic wrap and freeze for several hours before serving. If frozen in a mold, dip the mold in a bowl of warm water for a few seconds. Dry the outside of the mold, and invert and unmold the dessert onto a platter.