The Essential James Beard Cookbook (31 page)

¹
⁄
₈
teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

Pinch of cayenne pepper

2 large egg yolks

2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 pound wagon wheel pasta or egg noodles

Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Working in batches, add the chicken to the pan and sear for 1 minute, until it becomes firm on the outside but has not yet browned. Turn and sear the other side, then remove the chicken from the pan and transfer to a plate.

Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter in the skillet. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Stir in the celery, onions, and shallots. When they are nicely coated with butter, sprinkle with the flour and cook, stirring, for about 30 seconds without browning the flour. Gradually whisk in the chicken stock.

Return the chicken to the skillet with ½ cup of the cream, the salt, black pepper, nutmeg and cayenne. Shake the pan to blend the spices. Bring the sauce to a low simmer, cover, and reduce the heat to medium-low. Simmer until the meat shows no sign of pink when pierced at the thighbone with the tip of a sharp knife, about 40 minutes.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil over high heat. About 10 minutes before the sauce is done, add the pasta to the water and cook according to the package directions.

Meanwhile, transfer the chicken to a rimmed baking sheet and keep warm in a preheated 250°F oven. Tip the skillet and, using a flat spoon, skim off the surface fat from the sauce. Whisk the remaining ½ cup heavy cream and the egg yolks together in a small bowl. Gradually whisk about 1 cup of the hot sauce into the egg mixture, then whisk back into the skillet. Whisk over low heat until the sauce thickens to a light creamy consistency that just coats the spoon. It must not overheat or begin to simmer, or it will curdle. Season with the salt.

Drain the pasta and return to the cooking pot. Toss about half of the sauce with the pasta. Spread on a deep platter, top with the chicken, and pour the remaining sauce on top.

COUNTRY CAPTAIN

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Based on an East Indian curry, this dish owes its name to the term for a native Indian captain in the pay of his English colonizers. If you wish, after the initial sautéing of the chicken and vegetables, the dish can be baked in a 325°F oven until done.

Editor: The version given here comes from Cecily Brownstone, the food editor for Associated Press food columnist, and who was Beard’s friend for decades.

¼ cup all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon kosher salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

One 3½-pound chicken, cut into 8 serving pieces

4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter

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cup finely diced yellow onion

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cup finely diced green bell pepper

1 garlic clove, crushed under a knife

1½ teaspoons curry powder

½ teaspoon dried thyme, crumbled

One 15-ounce can stewed tomatoes

3 tablespoons dried currants, rinsed and dried

½ cup blanched slivered almonds, toasted

Mix the flour, salt, and pepper together on a plate. Dredge the chicken in the flour mixture, shaking off any excess flour. Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the chicken and cook, turning occasionally, until browned on all sides, about 10 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a warm platter. Add the onion, bell pepper, garlic, curry powder, and thyme to the skillet. Cook over low heat, scraping up the browned residue in the pan with a wooden spatula. Add the stewed tomatoes with their liquid. Return the chicken to the skillet, skin side up. Cover and cook slowly over medium-low heat until the meat shows no sign of pink when pierced at the thighbone, about 30 minutes. Stir in the currants. Top with the toasted almonds and serve hot.

CREOLE FRIED CHICKEN

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Editor: Coated with cracker crumbs, this is just the kind of fried chicken that you night find in Louisiana’s Bayou country. Make the effort to find small chickens, available at natural food stores. If the bird is too big, the outside crust will burn before the meat is cooked.

One 3- to 3½-pound chicken, cut into 8 serving pieces

1 lemon, halved

2 large eggs

½ cup whole milk

½ cup all-purpose flour

½ cup cracker meal

Lard or vegetable oil, for deep-frying

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Rub the chicken well with the lemon halves. Beat the eggs with the milk in a medium bowl. Add the chicken and refrigerate for 1 to 1½ hours. Combine the flour and cracker meal. Remove each piece of chicken from the egg mixture and roll in the crumb mixture to coat. Let stand 15 minutes. Add enough lard or oil to come halfway up the sides of a large, deep saucepan. Heat over high heat to 350°F on a deep-frying thermometer. Carefully add the chicken to the oil and cook, turning occasionally, until the chicken is tender and well browned, about 18 minutes. Transfer to paper towels to drain briefly. Season with salt and pepper and serve hot.

CURRIED CHICKEN

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Editor: Eggplant lends its flavor and body to this curry’s sauce. Serve it with boiled basmati rice, and a full contingency of condiments, such as mango chutney, chopped unsalted peanuts or slivered almonds, grated coconut, chopped hard-boiled egg, and raisins soaked in Cognac.

One 4-pound chicken, cut into 2 wings, 2 breast halves, 2 thighs, 2 drumsticks, and 1 back, with neck, heart, and gizzard reserved

2½ cups water

1 eggplant, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes

3 tablespoons olive oil

½ cup water

6 tablespoons (¾ stick) unsalted butter

2 apples, washed but unpeeled, cored and cut into ½-inch dice

2 medium onions, chopped

2 tablespoons curry powder

Pinch of cayenne pepper

1 teaspoon chopped garlic

½ teaspoon ground ginger

2 tablespoons Major Grey’s chutney

2 tablespoons tomato purée or 1 tablespoon tomato paste diluted with 1 tablespoon water

Kosher salt

Chop the chicken back with a heavy chef’s knife into 3-inch pieces. Put the back, neck, heart, and gizzard in a medium saucepan, and add enough cold water to cover the chicken pieces by 1 inch. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, skimming off any foam that rises to the surface, until full-flavored, about 2 hours. Strain and reserve the broth. You should have about 2½ cups broth.

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add the eggplant and cook, stirring occasionally, until browned, about 5 minutes. Add the water and simmer until the eggplant is soft, about 5 minutes more. In another skillet heat 4 tablespoons of the butter. Add the apples and onions and cook, stirring often, until softened. Add the curry powder, cayenne, garlic, ginger, and 1 cup of the reserved broth. Cover and simmer for 30 minutes. Then add the chutney, tomato purée, softened eggplant, and a second cup of broth, and simmer for another 30 minutes.

Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Working in batches, add the chicken and cook, turning occasionally, until nicely browned on all sides, about 10 minutes. Sprinkle with salt. Taste the curry sauce for seasoning, and dilute with a little water or broth if it is too thick. Add the chicken to the skillet with the sauce and cover. Simmer for about 25 minutes, or until cooked through and well flavored with the sauce.

DJAJ M’KALLI

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

This is an interesting poached chicken dish from North Africa. Serve with steamed rice cooked with a large pinch of saffron. [
Editor: The Pickled Lemons need to age for at least a week before serving.
]

Two 3½-pound chickens, each cut into 8 serving pieces

2 tablespoons kosher salt

6 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 cup vegetable oil

2 teaspoons ground ginger

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Good pinch of saffron threads

3 large yellow onions, grated

4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter

2 cups
Chicken Stock

2 cups water

1 cup Mediterranean black or green olives, pitted

A few slices of Pickled Lemon (see Box
here
)

Start this chicken dish the day before serving. Wash and drain the chicken pieces and remove all fat. Mix the salt with 3 of the garlic cloves and rub all over the chicken pieces. Let stand 1 hour; wipe off. Rub with a paste of 2 tablespoons of oil, ginger, turmeric, black pepper, and saffron. Put the rubbed chicken in a large bowl with the remaining oil, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate overnight.

The next day drain the chicken from the oil. Put the chicken with its spice coating in a very large Dutch oven with the onions, butter, and the remaining garlic. Add the stock and water. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, cover, and simmer until the chicken is tender, 40 to 45 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a platter. Rapidly boil the broth down to a thick, rich sauce, stirring often—this should take about 15 minutes. Correct the seasoning. Add the olives and a few slices of pickled lemon. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Return the chicken to the simmering sauce to reheat. Serve hot.

Pickled Lemons

Makes about 2 quarts

Editor: Preserved lemons are a staple of Moroccan cuisine. To use them, chop the lemon rind, and all. Both the lemon and the lemon-flavored oil are great in salad dressings, marinades, and fish dishes, as well as stews where a little acidity would brighten the flavor.

To sterilize jars: Place a canning rack in a large pot and put the jars in the rack. Add enough cold water to cover the jars. Bring to a boil, then boil for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, soak the rings and lids in a bowl of hot tap water. Using tongs, remove the jars from the rack, drain, and dry immediately with a clean kitchen towel. Fill the jar while it is still hot, then close with the lids and rings. Or, simply run the jars through the dishwasher and use immediately after the rinse cycle has finished.

8 large lemons

½ cup kosher salt

Olive oil, as needed

Slice the lemons
½
inch thick and place in a colander. Cover with salt and wrap the colander entirely with plastic wrap. Let stand at room temperature for 24 hours. Remove the wrap, and rinse and drain the lemons well in the colander. Arrange the lemons in the sterilized canning jars. Add enough oil to completely cover the slices. Cover and let stand in a cool, dark place for 1 to 2 weeks before using. Pickled lemons will keep indefinitely if kept covered with oil. If the lemons taste bland after they have ripened, add 1 tablespoon of salt to each jar.

POULET AU VINAIGRE

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Editor: An old French dish, chicken in vinegar sauce enjoyed a revival in the 1970s, and is still on many bistro menus. For the best results, use naturally fermented French vinegar.

6 tablespoons (¾ stick) unsalted butter

One 4-pound chicken, cut into 8 serving pieces

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

¾ cup water

2 scallions, white and green parts, finely chopped

¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

¼ cup top-quality red wine vinegar

Melt the butter in a large heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Working in batches, if necessary, add the chicken and brown on all sides, about 8 minutes. Lower the heat, and season the chicken to taste with salt and pepper. Add ½ cup of water, reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 15 minutes. Add the scallions and 1 tablespoon of chopped parsley. Move the pieces of white meat to the top so the dark meat, which takes longer to cook, can get more heat. Cover again and cook until the meat shows no sign of pink when pierced with the tip of a sharp knife at the thighbone, about 20 minutes.