The Essential James Beard Cookbook (14 page)

SPICY SZECHUAN SALAD

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

This could make an interesting first course or a main course for lunch.

Editor: Fresh cilantro was a rarity when this recipe was developed, and Beard probably substituted dried basil out of necessity. If you wish, substitute 3 or 4 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro leaves.

For the Salad

1 small napa cabbage, cored and sliced crosswise into long, thin strips

1 small head red cabbage, cored and sliced crosswise into long thin strips

2 cups fresh bean sprouts

2 cups fresh alfalfa sprouts

1 or 2 carrots, cut into julienne strips

8 radishes, thinly sliced

For the Dressing

2 teaspoons dried basil, pounded in a mortar and pestle

1 garlic clove, finely chopped

½ teaspoon kosher salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

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cup red wine vinegar

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cup soy sauce

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cup Asian sesame oil

1 tablespoon hot chili-flavored sesame oil (available at Asian grocers and most supermarkets)

To prepare the salad: Combine the napa and red cabbages, bean sprouts, alfalfa sprouts, carrots, and radishes in a large bowl.

To make the dressing: Combine the basil, garlic, salt, and pepper in a small bowl. Add vinegar and soy sauce and mix the ingredients well. Slowly whisk in the sesame and hot sesame oils. Taste for seasoning and add more hot sesame oil, if desired. Pour the dressing over the vegetables and toss well.

SCANDINAVIAN CUCUMBER SALAD

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

The cucumber is about as universal a vegetable as there is, and is found in salads around the world. The Scandinavians use it as we do coleslaw, as the accompaniment to many different dishes.

2 medium cucumbers or 1 hothouse (seedless) cucumber

Kosher salt

½ cup cider or white wine vinegar

3 tablespoons sugar

2 tablespoons water

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teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 to 4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh dill, or use half dill and half fresh flat-leaf parsley

If they are big, waxy, coarse cucumbers, peel them, cut lengthwise in two, and scrape out the seeds. If using a hothouse cucumber, leave unpeeled and unseeded. In either case, slice very thinly, put in a colander, and sprinkle with ½ teaspoon salt. Allow to drain for an hour or so, then rinse briefly under cold water and pat dry. Transfer the cucumbers to a bowl. Whisk the vinegar, sugar, water, pepper, and dill together and pour the dressing over the cucumbers, cover with plastic wrap, and let stand for at least 3 hours before serving, by which time the cucumbers will have wilted. Season with more salt, if needed.

FRESH MUSHROOM SALAD

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

Salads of vegetables, cooked, canned, or raw, served with a vinaigrette sauce, are more commonly known as vegetables vinaigrette. They can be served alone as a salad or first course, or as part of an hors d’oeuvre selection, along with other vegetables vinaigrette, canned, fresh, and cured fish and shellfish, pâtés, ham, and sliced sausages such as salami and mortadella. Some vegetables benefit from being marinated first for an hour or two.

2 pounds very firm mushrooms, wiped clean

½ cup
Basic Vinaigrette Sauce

1½ tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon or dill

2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

Break off the mushroom stems and reserve them for some other use (they can be chopped and cooked down in butter until all the liquid evaporates, then used for an omelet filling or swirled into scrambled eggs).

Slice large mushroom caps lengthwise about ¼ inch thick. Small mushrooms may be left whole, or halved. Put the mushrooms into a mixing bowl, add the vinaigrette sauce and tarragon, and toss well. Let the salad stand for 1 or 2 hours. To serve, put into a serving bowl or dish, add additional oil and vinegar, if needed, and sprinkle with the chopped parsley.

OLD-FASHIONED OREGON POTATO SALAD

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

This salad, which was very popular when I was growing up, is one I like to serve with very simple foods, such as ham, cold chicken, and other cold meats. The nasturtium leaves, a particularly Western addition, were picked from the garden and tossed into the salad bowl to add a peppery zest. If you don’t grow nasturtiums, you might add a little garden cress, arugula, or watercress.

2½ pounds small new potatoes, unpeeled

1 large yellow onion, finely chopped

2 celery ribs, finely diced

1 or 2 carrots, shredded

½ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, plus more for garnish

¹
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cup cider vinegar

4 or 5 unsprayed nasturtium leaves, cut into shreds (optional)

¾ cup
Mayonnaise
, as needed

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Mixed salad greens, for serving

3 hard-boiled eggs, quartered or sliced, for serving

12 stuffed green olives, sliced, for serving

Chopped fresh chives, for garnish

Boil the potatoes in their skins in a large saucepan of salted water to cover until they can just be pierced with a fork, about 15 minutes. Drain. Peel and slice into a large bowl while still warm and combine with the onion, celery, carrot, and parsley. Add the vinegar, and the nasturtium leaves, if using, and toss to mix well. Let the salad stand at room temperature for 15 minutes. Blend with enough mayonnaise to coat the vegetables well, and season with salt and pepper. Refrigerate for 2 to 3 hours.

Line a deep platter with greens and unmold the chilled salad onto it. Top with the hard-cooked eggs and olives. Sprinkle with more chopped parsley and the chopped chives.

RICE SALAD WITH SUMMER VEGETABLES

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

The secret of a good rice salad is to use freshly cooked rice and toss it with oil while it is hot. This coats the cooling grains and keeps them separate and fluffy. Line the salad bowl with salad greens, if you like. This is a good summer accompaniment to broiled or grilled meat and poultry.

4½ cups freshly cooked
long-grain white rice

3 tablespoons olive oil

¾ cup finely chopped scallions (white and green parts) or red onion

½ cup peeled, seeded, and diced cucumber

½ cup seeded and diced green or red bell pepper

½ cup peeled, seeded, and chopped tomato

¼ cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

½ to ¾ cup
Basic Vinaigrette Sauce

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

The minute the rice is drained, put it into a bowl; add the oil, and toss well with two forks until the grains are completely coated. Cool the rice at room temperature.

Mix in the chopped scallions, cucumber, bell pepper, tomato, parsley, and basil. Add vinaigrette to taste, according to how moist you like your rice salad—it should be well coated but not soggy. Toss lightly with two forks. Season with salt and pepper.

WHITE BEAN AND TUNA SALAD

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

A delicious summer salad for a buffet or a luncheon main dish that may be made either with cooked white beans or canned Italian cannellini beans, which can be found in any supermarket.

For the Dressing

¼ cup red wine vinegar

2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil or 2 teaspoons dried basil

1 teaspoon kosher salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¾ cup olive oil

For the Salad

Three 20-ounce cans cannellini beans (about 6 cups)

1 cup finely chopped yellow onion

Two 6-ounce cans solid white albacore tuna, drained and flaked

1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil

¼ cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Additional oil and vinegar, if necessary

To prepare the dressing: In a small bowl whisk together the vinegar, basil, and salt and pepper. Then whisk in the olive oil.

To assemble the salad: Drain the beans through a colander and rinse them well under cold running water to get rid of the thick, gummy liquid that clings to them. Shake well to free of excess water, then put the beans into a serving bowl or dish. Pour the dressing over the beans, letting it run through to coat them, then toss very lightly to distribute the dressing—don’t toss too much or the beans will break up. Put the onion and tuna on top of the beans. Sprinkle with the basil and parsley. Just before serving, add a little more oil and vinegar, if the salad seems to need it, and toss lightly to combine ingredients.

VARIATIONS

•
Add ½ cup small black olives and 6 chopped anchovy fillets with the onion and tuna.

•
Use canned salmon, or boneless skinless canned sardines instead of tuna.

•
Omit the tuna. Serve the bean salad in tomato shells, as a first course. To prepare the shells, slice off about ½ inch of the top, scoop out the seeds and pulp, and turn the hollow shells upside down to drain.

GREASED PIG SALAD

MAKES 1 SALAD

This is really a BLT sandwich without the benefit of bread. It was discovered at a small soul food restaurant in Montmartre run by Americans and had become a popular hors d’oeuvre with the French.

Crisp leaves of Boston, romaine, or Bibb lettuce

Slices of really ripe tomatoes

A slice of red onion (optional)

3 or 4 slices of cooked crisp bacon

Mayonnaise

Arrange a few crisp leaves of lettuce on a plate. Top with the tomato slices and maybe a slice of red onion. At the last minute add the hot bacon. Serve with mayonnaise.

HEARTY BEEF SALAD

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

This beef salad is served as a first course in France, but I find it very satisfactory as a buffet, luncheon, or supper dish.

For the Salad:

Mixed salad greens, for the serving platter

3 cups lean boiled or pot-roasted beef, sliced and then cut into 1-inch squares

2 cups boiled and sliced new potatoes (see instructions in
Old-Fashioned Potato Salad
)