The Anarchist Cookbook (76 page)

(take them out of an unworking 6-12 volt battery), and table salt. Dissolve the salt in a

large bowl full of water. Submerge the two test tubes in the water and put the electrodes

inside them, with the mouth of the tube aiming down. Connect the battery to some wire

going down to the electrodes.

This will work for a while, but chlorine will be generated along with the oxygen which will

corrode your copper wires leading to the carbon electrodes... (the table salt is broken up

into chlorine and sodium ions, the chlorine comes off as a gas with oxygen while sodium

reacts with the water to form sodium hydroxide....). therefore, if you can get your hands

on some sulfuric acid, use it instead. it will not affect the reaction other than making the

water conduct electricity.

WARNING:

DO NOT use a transformer that outputs AC current! Not only is AC inherently more

dangerous than DC, it also produces both Hydrogen and Oxygen at each electrode.

HYDROGEN + CHLORINE

Take the test tube of hydrogen and cover the mouth with your thumb. Keep it inverted,

and bring it near the bottle of chlorine (not one that has reacted with turpentine). Say

"good-bye test tube", and drop it into the bottle. The hydrogen and chlorine should react

and possibly explode (depending on purity and amount of each gas). An interesting thing

about this is they will not react if it is dark and no heat or other energy is around. When a

light is turned on, enough energy is present to cause them to react...

PREPARATION OF OXYGEN

Get some hydrogen peroxide (from a drug store) and manganese dioxide (from a battery-

it's a black powder). Mix the two in a bottle, and they give off oxygen. If the bottle is

stoppered, pressure will build up and shoot it off.

Try lighting a wood splint and sticking it (when only glowing) into the bottle. The oxygen

will make it burst into flame. The oxygen will allow things to burn better...

IODINE

Tincture of iodine contains mainly alcohol and a little iodine. To separate them, put the

tincture of iodine in a metal lid to a bottle and heat it over a candle. Have a stand holding

another metal lid directly over the tincture (about 4-6 inches above it) with ice on top of

it. The alcohol should evaporate, and the iodine should sublime, but should reform iodine

crystals on the cold metal lid directly above. If this works (I haven't tried), you can use

the iodine along with household ammonia to form nitrogen triiodide.

I have found that Pool Chlorine tablets with strong household ammonia react to produce

LOTS of chlorine gas and heat... also mixing the tablets with rubbing alcohol produces

heat, a different (and highly flammable) gas, and possibly some sort of acid (it eats away

at just about anything it touches)

TRIPWIRES

by The Mortician

Well first of all I recommend that you read the file on my board about landmines... If you

can't then here is the concept.

You can use an m-80,h-100, blockbuster or any other type of explosive that will light with

a fuse. Now the way this works is if you have a 9 volt battery, get either a solar igniter

(preferably) or some steel wool you can create a remote ignition system. What you do it

set up a schematic like this.

------------------>+ battery

steel || ->- battery

wool || /

:==:--- <--fuse \

|| /

---- spst switch--\

So when the switch is on the currnet will flow through the steel wool or igniter and heat

up causing the fuse to light. Note: For use with steel wool try it first and get a really thin

piece of wire and pump the current through it to make sure it will heat up to light the

explosive.

Now the thing to do is plant your explosive wherever you want it to be, bury it and cover

the wires. Now take a fishing line (about 20 lb. test) and tie one end to a secure object.

Have your switch secured to something and make a loop on the other end on the line. Put

the loop around the switch such that when pulled it will pull the switch and set off the

explosive.

To ignite the explosive... The thing to do is to experiment with this and find your best

method... Let me know on any good kills, or new techniques... On my board... (201)376-4462

BOOBY TRAP TRIP WIRES

BY Vlad Tepes (of Chicago C64 fame)

Here is a method for constructing boobytraps which I personally invented, and which I

have found to work better than any other type of release booby trap.

There are many possible variations on this design, but the basic premise remains the same.

What you'll need:



3-4 nails each 2 inches long and soft enough to bend easily (galvanized iron works well)



6 feet of wire or fishing line



5-15 feet of strong string or rope



1 really sick mind.

Hammer two of the nails into the trunk of a tree (about one inch apart) so they form a

horizontal line. They should be angled slightly upward, about 30ø.

Bend each nail Downward about one inch out from the trunk. Take your nefarious device

(say a small rock suspended in a tree) and rig a rope or string so the line comes DOWN

towards the two nails. Tie a loop in the string so the loop *just* reaches between the two

nails, and pass a third nail between the two nails with the loop around this nail between the

two others (see diagrams)

bent nails

/ || ^ slight upward tension

# /\ ||

#/ @ || @ ( @ are the two nails, head on)

# ------!----()------

# trip wire

\ /

Trunk third nail

Now tie one end of the fishing line to the head of the third nail, and the other end around

another tree or to a nail (in another tree, a root or a stump etc).

When somebody pulls on the trip wire, the nail will be pulled out and your sick creation will

be released to do it's damage (try tying it to a firing pin).

There are several possible variations. More than one trip wire can be attached to the same

nail, or this device can be used to arm a second trip wire. Large wire staples or hook and

eye loops can be used to replace the two bent nails.

A more interesting variation uses a straight piece of metal rod with a hole at each end, or

with a short wire loop welded to each end. One end is attached to the tripwire, the other

is attached to a spring.

||

*/\/\/\/\/\-===()=======--------------------------------------*

SPRING BOLT Trip wire

With this design the loop will be released if the tripwire is pulled or if it is broken. The

spring should be under moderate tension and well oiled.

Improvised Explosives

Written by: The Lich

Gelatin Explosive from Anti-Freeze

CAUTION: THIS FORMULA ASSUMES THAT THE MAKER HAS NO QUALMS ABOUT

KILLING HIS/HER SELF IN THE PROCESS.

This explosive is almost the same as the nitro-gelatin plastique explosive except that it is

supple and pliable to -10øC to -20øC

Antifreeze is easier to obtain than glycerine and is usually cheaper. It needs to be freed

of water before the manufacture and this can be done by treating it with calcium chloride

until a specific gravity of 1.12 at 0øC or 1.11 at 20øC is obtained.

This can be done by adding calcium chloride to the antifreeze and checking with a

hydrometer and continue to add calcium chloride until the proper reading is obtained. The

antifreeze is then filtered to remove the calcium chloride from the liquid. This explosive is

superior to nitro-gelatin in that it is easier to collidon the IMR smokeless powder into the

explosive and that the 50/50 ether ethyl alcohol can be done away with. It is superior in

that the formation of the collidon is done very rapidly by the nitroethelene glycol.

It's detonation properties are practically the same as the nitro-gelatine. Like the nitro-

gelatine it is highly flammable and if caught on fire the chances are good that the flame

will progress to detonation. In this explosive as in nitro-gelatine the addition of 1% sodium

carbonate is a good idea to reduce the chance of residual acid being present in the final

explosive. The following is a slightly different formula than nitro-gelatine:

Nitro-glycol 75% Guncotton (IMR) 6% Potassium Nitrate 14% Flour 5%

In this process the 50/50 step is omitted. Mix the potassium nitrate with the nitro-glycol.

Remember that this nitro-glycol is just as sensitive to shock as is nitroglycerin.

The next step is to mix in the baking flour and sodium carbonate. Mix these by kneading

with gloved hands until the mixture is uniform. This kneading should be done gently and

slowly. The mixture should be uniform when the IMR smokeless powder is added. Again

this is kneaded to uniformity. Use this explosive as soon as possible.

If it must be stored, store in a cool, dry place (0-10øC). This explosive should detonate at

7600-7800 m/sec.. These two explosives are very powerful and should be sensitive to a #6

blasting cap or equivalent.

These explosives are dangerous and should not be made unless the manufacturer has had

experience with this type compound. The foolish and ignorant may as well forget these

explosives as they won't live to get to use them.

Don't get me wrong, these explosives have been manufactured for years with an amazing

record of safety. Millions of tons of nitroglycerine have been made and used to

manufacture dynamite and explosives of this nature with very few mishaps.

Nitroglycerin and nitroglycol will kill and their main victims are the stupid and foolhardy.

Before manufacturing these explosives take a drop of nitroglycerin and soak into a small

piece of filter paper and place it on an anvil.

Hit this drop with a hammer and don't put any more on the anvil. See what I mean! This

explosive compound is not to be taken lightly. If there are any doubts DON'T.

Improvised Explosives Plastique Explosive from Aspirin

This explosive is a phenol derivative. It is HIGHLY toxic and explosive compounds made

from picric acid are poisonous if inhaled, ingested, or handled and absorbed through the

skin. The toxicity of this explosive restricts its use due to the fact that over exposure in

most cases causes liver and kidney failure and sometimes death if immediate treatment is

not obtained.

This explosive is a cousin to TNT but is more powerful than it's cousin. It is the first

explosive used militarily and was adopted in 1888 as an artillery shell filler. Originally this

explosive was derived from coal tar but thanks to modern chemistry you can make this

explosive easily in approximately three hours from acetylsalicylic acid (aspirin purified).

This procedure involves dissolving the acetylsalicylic acid in warm sulfuric acid and adding

sodium or potassium nitrate which nitrates the purified aspirin and the whole mixture

drowned in water and filtered to obtain the final product. This explosive is called

trinitrophenol. Care should be taken to ensure that this explosive is stored in glass

containers. Picric acid will form dangerous salts when allowed to contact all metals except

tin and aluminum. These salts are primary explosive and are super sensitive. They also will

cause the detonation of the picric acid.

To make picric acid obtain some aspirin. The cheaper brands work best but buffered

brands should be avoided. Powder these tablets to a fine consistency. To extract the

acetylsalicylic acid from this powder place this powder in methyl alcohol and stir

vigorously. Not all of the powder will dissolve. Filter this powder out of the alcohol. Again

wash this powder that was filtered out of the alcohol with more alcohol but with a lesser

amount than the first extraction. Again filter the remaining powder out of the alcohol.

Combine the now clear alcohol and allow it to evaporate in a pyrex dish. When the alcohol

has evaporated there will be a surprising amount of crystals in the bottom of the pyrex

dish.

Take forty grams of these purified acetylsalicylic acid crystals and dissolve them in 150

mL of sulfuric acid (98%, specify gravity 1.8) and heat to dissolve all the crystals. This

heating can be done in a common electric frying pan with the thermostat set on 150øF and

filled with a good cooking oil.

When all the crystals have dissolved in the sulfuric acid take the beaker, that you've done

all this dissolving in (600 mL), out of the oil bath. This next step will need to be done with

a very good ventilation system (it is a good idea to do any chemistry work such as the

whole procedure and any procedure on this disk with good ventilation or outside). Slowly

start adding 58 g of sodium nitrate or 77 g of potassium nitrate to the acid mixture in the

beaker very slowly in small portions with vigorous stirring. A red gas (nitrogen trioxide) will

be formed and this should be avoided.

The mixture is likely to foam up and the addition should be stopped until the foaming goes

down to prevent the overflow of the acid mixture in the beaker. When the sodium or