Thanksgiving 101 (16 page)

4.
Use to stuff the turkey or place the dressing in a buttered casserole, cover, and refrigerate. Drizzle with about ¼ cup stock before reheating in a preheated 350°F oven for about 20 minutes.

And the Award for the Best Supporting Side Dish Goes to…

A
s hard as I try to buck the concept of excess at the Thanksgiving table, I am as guilty as the next person when it comes to side dishes. How am I supposed to choose between mashed potatoes and sweet potatoes? Why not make both? Green beans or glazed carrots? Heck, green beans
and
glazed carrots! Most of the time, my menu is limited only by the amount of help I have in the kitchen and how many dishes I can fit on the table. There is no other holiday meal where side dishes are as important as the main course itself. No cranberry sauce? Unthinkable! Hold the gravy? I don’t think so….

Thanksgiving side dishes are not known for their subtlety. They can usually be described in one word: rich. When putting together a menu, balance it with some simply prepared sides like Green Beans with Portobello Mushrooms and Bacon. And try to include a brightly colored dish like Not-Your-Grandmother’s Succotash.

Admittedly, there are a lot of cranberry sauces in this chapter. I just couldn’t decide on which one to leave out, since every single one of them has been dubbed “the best one I ever had” by different friends and students over the years. I hope you have fun deciding which one to make.

In the midst of all the cream and marshmallows, I sometimes long for the clean flavors of simply prepared vegetables. Often my side dishes are no more than sautéed vegetables sprinkled with nuts, seeds, or herbs. The vegetables are parcooked in boiling salted water just until crisp-tender. Drain and rinse under cold water, and drain again. Pat them completely dry with paper towels and store, wrapped loosely in more paper towels, in self-sealing plastic bags. When you’re ready to
serve, it’s just a matter of sautéing in butter or olive oil until heated through. These don’t need full recipes, just a few words to point you in the right direction, and inspire you to come up with your own combinations.

Broccoli and Cauliflower with Almonds:
In a large skillet, sauté parboiled broccoli and cauliflower florets in extra virgin olive oil. Sprinkle with toasted, chopped almonds. Season with salt and crushed hot red pepper flakes.

Carrots with Tarragon:
Cut carrots into ½ × 3-inch sticks; parboil (and store) as directed above. In a large skillet, cook chopped shallots in butter until softened. Add the carrots and cook until heated through. Toss with chopped fresh tarragon. Season with salt and pepper.

Carrots with Sesame Seeds:
Sauté the carrots in butter and sprinkle with sesame seeds.

Green Beans with Hazelnuts:
In a large skillet, cook chopped shallots in butter until softened. Add the parboiled green beans and cook until heated through. Sprinkle with toasted, skinned and chopped hazelnuts. Season with salt and pepper.

To be sure that your side dishes are served at their piping-hot best, follow these tips:

• Unless you plan accordingly, you could easily have a traffic jam in the oven trying to reheat all those sides. Be sure that at least one dish is prepared on top of the stove to lessen the load in the oven.
  
• Many side dishes can be prepared and stored in the refrigerator until ready to serve. Increase the baking times by 10 to 15 minutes if the dishes are chilled.
  
• Allow at least 20 minutes for the food to heat through in the oven. Cover the dishes with their lids or aluminum foil.
  
• Warm the serving dishes (in a preheated 200°F oven for a few minutes, or by filling them with hot water) before adding the food.
  
• Have the serving utensils ready.
  
• If a hot dish is going to be served in the casserole or baking dish it was heated in, have clean pot holders and trivets at the table to make serving easier.
  

Broccoli with Roasted Garlic Butter

Roasted garlic has become a classic American flavor—future cooks may regard it in the same way we do the Pilgrims’ pumpkin! Roasted garlic butter, tossed with good old broccoli, turns that familiar vegetable into a side dish that will have everyone asking for seconds. The garlic butter can be made well ahead—it’s a simple matter to cook the broccoli, drain, and mix with the butter just before serving.

ROASTED GARLIC BUTTER

1.
To make the roasted garlic butter, position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 400°F.

2.
Cut each garlic head in half crosswise. Drizzle the cut surfaces with the oil, then season with a sprinkle of salt and pepper. Put the halves back together to re-form into heads. Wrap each head in aluminum foil and place on a baking sheet. Bake until the garlic is tender when squeezed and the cut surfaces are deep beige (open up the foil to check), about 35 minutes. Cool completely.

3.
Squeeze the soft garlic flesh out the hulls into a small bowl. Add the butter, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper. Using a rubber spatula, mash the garlic and butter until well combined. Cover tightly and refrigerate until ready to use. (The garlic butter can be prepared up to 3 days ahead.) Bring to room temperature before using.

4.
To prepare the broccoli, cut off the tops and separate into florets. Using a sharp paring knife, trim the thick skin off the stems. Cut the pared stems crosswise into ½-inch rounds. (The broccoli can be prepared up to 1 day ahead, stored in plastic bags, and refrigerated.)

5.
Bring a large saucepan of lightly salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the broccoli stems and cook for 2 minutes. Add the florets and cook until the broccoli is crisp-tender, about 2 more minutes. Drain quickly and return to the warm cooking pot. Do not drain the broccoli completely dry—leave some water clinging to the broccoli.

6.
Add the softened garlic butter to the broccoli and mix gently, allowing the butter to melt and combine with the small amount of water in the pot to form a light sauce. Transfer to a warmed serving bowl and serve immediately.

Brussels Sprouts in Sherry Cream Sauce

My friend Diane Kniss contributed this recipe, which is a regular item on her annual Thanksgiving menu. And as Diane rarely serves less than two dozen particular folks who expect nothing but the best from her, she is very careful about what dishes make the cut. Try to buy the firmest, smallest sprouts, as they have the most delicate nutty flavor.

1.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. In a large skillet, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter over medium heat. Add half of the garlic and stir until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add half of the Brussels sprouts. Cook, stirring occasionally, until heated through, about 2 minutes. Tossing the sprouts, sprinkle with 1 tablespoon of the flour, and stir for 1 minute without letting the flour brown. Stir in 2 tablespoons of the sherry, then ½ cup of the heavy cream. Bring to a simmer. Cook, stirring often, until the sauce thickens and the Brussels sprouts are just tender, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl. Repeat the procedure with the remaining butter, garlic, Brussels sprouts, flour, and cream. Stir in ¼ cup of the cheese. Season with the salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Spread in a buttered 9 × 13-inch baking dish. Sprinkle with the remaining ¼ cup cheese. (The Brussels sprouts can be prepared up to 1 day ahead, cooled, covered, and refrigerated.)

2.
Bake until the sauce is bubbling, about 25 minutes. Serve hot.

Brussels Sprouts and Chestnuts, Italian Style

In many households, a mixture of Brussels sprouts and chestnuts is considered to be the quintessential turkey side dish. These two ingredients are very full flavored, so serve this dish in small portions.

1.
Using a small, sharp knife, cut a small, deep “X” into the bottom stem of each sprout. Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil
over high heat. Add the sprouts and cook until barely tender, about 8 minutes. Drain and rinse well under cold running water. Pat dry with paper towels, and cut the larger sprouts into halves or quarters. (The sprouts can be prepared up to 1 day ahead, wrapped in paper towels, stored in self-sealing plastic bags, and refrigerated.)

2.
In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the prosciutto and cook until very lightly browned, about 3 minutes. Add the Brussels sprouts, chestnuts, and stock, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cook, stirring often, until the stock has evaporated, about 5 minutes. Season with the salt and pepper. Transfer to a warmed serving dish and serve hot.

Maple-Glazed Baby Carrots with Pecans

“Baby-cut” carrots are as convenient as they are ubiquitous and a real time-saver when serving a holiday crowd. Skillet size is especially important in this recipe, as a smaller skillet will not hold the large amount of carrots and liquid. If necessary, divide the recipe in half and cook in a 9-inch skillet.

1.
In a 12-inch skillet, preferably nonstick, heat the butter over medium heat. Add the carrots and stir to coat with the butter. Add the broth, maple syrup, salt, and pepper; increase the heat to high and bring to a boil. Cover tightly and cook for 6 minutes.

2.
Uncover and cook, stirring often, until the carrots are tender and the liquid reduces to a glaze, 12 to 15 minutes. (The carrots can be prepared up to 2 hours ahead, kept at room temperature. To reheat, add ¼ cup water and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the carrots are hot and the water evaporates, about 5 minutes.) Stir in the pecans. Transfer to a warmed serving dish and serve immediately.

Port-Glazed Carrots:
Substitute
¹
/3 cup tawny or ruby port for the maple syrup. Add
¹
/3 cup packed light brown sugar to the skillet.

Note:
Grade B maple syrup, available at most natural food stores, has a robust maple flavor and works well in this recipe. The maple flavor in Grade A syrup is subtle, but you can use it, if you wish. Maple-flavored pancake syrup, which is not true maple syrup but artificially flavored corn syrup, is too sweet for this recipe.

Tender Corn Pudding

Dried corn played a large part in the Pilgrim (and Indian) diet. They would probably appreciate that this comforting dish is made with frozen corn, our modern method of food preservation. This is a mildly seasoned version, but it is easy to add Southwestern flavors to make a spicy variation.

1.
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly butter a 10 × 15-inch baking dish.

2.
In a large skillet, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the bell pepper, scallions, and garlic. Cook, stirring often, until the bell pepper softens, about 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.

3.
In a blender, process 3 cups of the corn with the heavy cream until smooth. Transfer to a large bowl. Add the remaining 3 cups corn, milk, eggs, salt, and pepper, and whisk well to combine the milk and eggs. Stir in the vegetables. Transfer to the prepared dish.

4.
Place the dish in a large roasting pan on the oven rack. Pour in enough nearly boiling water to come ½ inch up the outside of the baking dish. Bake until a knife inserted in the center comes out clean, about 1 hour. Remove the dish from the roasting pan and let stand for 5 minutes before serving.