Rose's Heavenly Cakes (81 page)

The amount of corn flour/cornstarch can be adjusted depending on the protein content of the flour you are using and the degree of tenderness you desire in the cake. Lower protein results in more tenderness. Too low a protein content and the cake will dip in the center; too high, and the cake will dome.

Sugar

A cake can be baked without flour, but without sweetness it no longer qualifies as dessert. It is sugar that sweetens every cake in this book. The four types of sugar I have used for these recipes are superfine cane sugar, turbinado sugar, light brown sugar, and dark brown sugar. Refined superfine sugar results in the finest texture and most neutral flavor, adding sweetness that balances and accentuates other ingredients. Granulated cane sugar can be substituted for superfine sugar. In some recipes I specify turbinado, or raw sugar, for the extra flavor it offers because of its slightly higher amount of molasses. For components such as crumb toppings, I use part light brown sugar for still more intensity.

When it comes to light brown and dark brown sugars, I adore the flavor of Muscovado from the tropical island of Mauritius off the coast of Africa in the Indian Ocean. The special flavor of the sugar is said to be derived from sugar cane grown in the volcanic ash. Billington's is one brand that is imported from England and available in fine groceries, gourmet and health food stores, and from India Tree (see
Ingredients Sources
). Its light brown sugar contains 3.5 percent molasses and the dark brown contains 6.5 percent molasses.

Equal volume of either type of brown sugar has the same sugar content as refined white sugar, but brown sugar must be measured by packing it firmly into the cup. Dark brown sugar weighs the most because of its added molasses. Molasses also adds moisture to the sugar. Brown sugar contains 2.1 percent water, while plain white sucrose contains only 0.5 percent.

Meringue and dacquoise are usually made with refined sugar, but they can be made with turbinado sugar as long as you allow the sugar to sit in the egg white for a minimum of 30 minutes to dissolve fully before beating. Even Italian meringue can be made with turbinado sugar syrup. And if an interfering agent, such as pineapple juice, is used for caramel, turbinado also works beautifully, though it lowers the temperature of the finished stages of the caramel, as is noted in the recipes.

Store brown sugar in an airtight container, such as a canning jar, to keep it from losing moisture and solidifying. If the sugar should solidify, make a small shallow cup from a piece of aluminum foil and set it on top of the sugar in the container. Tear a paper towel in half, wet it, and squeeze out most of the water. Set the towel on top of the foil, not touching the sugar. Cover the container tightly and, within several hours, the sugar will have drawn the moisture from the paper towel and become soft and loose again.

If you run out of brown sugar and have white sugar and molasses on hand, it's easy to make your own (see
Ingredient Equivalencies and Substitutions
).

Sugar Syrups

A small amount of simple syrup brushed onto butter cake layers does wonders to keep the cake fresh when served a day or two after baking. One tablespoon per top and bottom of a cake layer baked in a 9 by 2-inch cake pan is just right to keep the cake moist without its becoming soggy or overly sweet. Poke the top of the cake layer all over with a thin skewer to enable the syrup to penetrate through the top crust when it is brushed on.

Make the Simple Syrup

In a small saucepan, stir together the sugar and water until all the sugar is moistened. Bring the mixture to a rolling boil over medium-high heat, stirring constantly. Remove from the heat and cool completely. Transfer it to a heatproof glass measure and stir in the vanilla. Add water to equal ½ cup of syrup. Cover and refrigerate for up to 1 month.

Concentrated Sugar Syrups

When making a sugar syrup for Italian meringue or classic buttercream, for example, the sugar is concentrated to produce a supersaturated solution from a saturated one. A saturated sugar solution contains the maximum amount of sugar possible at room temperature without its precipitating out into crystals. A supersaturated sugar solution contains more sugar than the water can dissolve at room temperature. Heating the solution enables the sugar to dissolve. Cold water is capable of holding double its weight in sugar, but by heating it, more sugar can dissolve in the same amount of water. A sugar solution begins with sugar, partially dissolved in at least one-third its weight of cold water. It is stirred continuously until boiling, at which time all the sugar is dissolved. If sugar crystals remain on the sides of the pan, wash down the sides with a wet pastry brush. The solution is now considered supersaturated and, to avoid crystallization, must not be stirred.

As the water evaporates, the temperature of the solution rises and the density increases. Concentration of the syrup depends on the amount of water left after evaporation. The temperature of the syrup indicates the concentration. As long as there is a lot of water in the syrup, the temperature does not rise much above the boiling point of the water. But when most of the water has boiled away, the temperature can now rise dramatically, passing through various stages and eventually rising to the temperature of melted sugar (320°F/160°C) when all the water is gone.

Concentration can also be measured by density using a saccharometer or Baumé weight scale. A Baumé scale is graduated from 0° to 44° and corresponds in a direct relationship to the degrees Fahrenheit or Celsius. The degree of evaporation can also be measured by consistency, by dropping a small amount of the syrup into ice water.

Supersaturated solutions are highly unstable and recrystallization can occur from agitation or even just by standing unless the solution was properly heated in the first place. The use of an "interfering agent" (so called because it interferes with crystallization), such as invert sugar (a little more than one-fourth the weight of the granulated sugar), butter, cream of tartar, or citric acid helps keep the solution stable by interfering with the crystalline structure formation. This is useful when the solution will be used in a way that will involve repeatedly dipping into it, such as for making spun sugar (see
Spun Sugar
).

As melted sugar reaches higher temperatures, many chemical changes begin to occur. The sugar cannot start to caramelize until all the water is evaporated. As it starts to caramelize, its sweetening power decreases. At this point, when all the water has evaporated, stirring will not cause the sugar to crystallize. The addition of a significant amount of an ingredient such as nuts, however, can lower the temperature considerably, and this will cause crystallization to occur instantly if no interfering agent was used.

Caramel is extremely difficult to make in humid weather because sugar is highly hygroscopic ("attracts water"). The moisture in the air will make the caramel sticky.

A half cup of sugar makes ¼ cup of liquid caramel (plus the residue that clings to the pot). If hardened and then pulverized, it returns to its original volume of ½ cup.

When sugar syrup has been prepared in advance, it is sometimes necessary to check the exact quantity of sugar and water it contains. It is important to know that the Baumé reading in a cold solution measures slightly higher than does the same solution when hot.

Another variant that affects density reading is altitude. Because water boils at a lower temperature as altitude increases (there is less air pressure weighing on the water to prevent it from changing from liquid into vapor), there will be a different temperature for the same concentration of sugar syrup at different altitudes. For each increase of five hundred feet in elevation, syrup should be cooked to a temperature 1°F lower than the temperature called for at sea level. If readings are taken in Celsius, for each nine hundred feet of elevation, cook the syrup to a temperature 1°C lower than what is called for at sea level. These adjustments should be made up to 320°F/160°C, the melting point of sugar at all altitudes.

Note that partially refined sugar caramelizes at a lower temperature. If you are not using a thermometer for caramel, use a clean clear or light-colored silicone spatula to determine the color. (Any sugar remaining on the spatula will cause crystallization.) Take care that the caramel does not become too dark as it will be bitter.

Molasses

Molasses is refined from the concentrated juice of sugar cane and contains 24 percent water. I prefer Grandma's "unsulphured" mild flavor molasses for my recipes; its intensity doesn't overpower the other flavors.

Refiner's Syrup

This delicious by-product of sugar refining, with lilting overtones of butterscotch and vanilla, contains 15 to 18 percent water. When, after many boilings, cane sugar syrup ceases to yield crystals, it is filtered and concentrated into this golden-colored syrup. Lyle's, a British company, packages it as Lyle's Golden Syrup. It can be used interchangeably with light corn syrup.

Corn Syrup

This syrup is primarily glucose with fructose added to prevent crystallization. It contains about 24 percent water, but it can be used interchangeably with refiner's syrup.

Eggs

All my recipes use USDA-grade large eggs, which means that twelve eggs in the shell should weigh a minimum of 24 ounces/680 grams and a maximum of 30 ounces/850 grams. However, this does not mean that each egg is the same size. Also, the ratio of white to yolk in an egg can vary to such a degree that a recipe calling for 6 yolks may actually need as many as 10. It is therefore advisable to weigh or measure the yolks and whites. Since cakes are so dependent on eggs for their structure, I find it safer to weigh or measure even when I know I'm using large eggs. It is important to note that the weights given for eggs on the recipe charts are always without the shells.

Storing Eggs

Store eggs in a covered container, bottom (larger) sides up for maximum freshness.

Egg whites keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 10 days.

Unbroken yolks, covered with water, or sprayed with nonstick cooking spray to prevent drying, will keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

Egg whites freeze perfectly and keep for at least 1 year. Store them in small containers as they should not be refrozen after thawing. It is also possible to freeze yolks. Stir in ½ teaspoon sugar per yolk to keep them from becoming sticky after they are defrosted. (Remember to subtract this amount of sugar from any recipe in which you are using them.)

Cakes made with all egg yolks are more tender and require slightly less leavening than cakes made with whole eggs (¼ teaspoon less baking powder for every 3 yolks). Yolks are more flavorful, result in a more golden crumb, and also cause the crust to brown more quickly. Cakes made with all egg whites are softer but slightly stronger in structure and require slightly more leavening than those made with whole eggs.
A whole egg can be replaced by 2 egg yolks or 1½ egg whites.

Egg Safety for Raw or Partially Cooked Eggs

Food safety experts agree that the risk of salmonella in raw or partially cooked eggs is highest for young children, the elderly, pregnant women, and those whose immune systems are impaired.

To prevent salmonella in preparations calling for uncooked or lightly cooked eggs, the American Egg Board (see
Ingredients Sources
) recommends pasteurized eggs in the shell (available in some markets; "pasteurized" will be marked on the carton) and pasteurized egg whites ("Whippin' Whites" are available in many supermarkets). They contain minute quantities of triethyl citrate to improve whipping (cream of tartar can still be added for stability). Pasteurized, organic kosher egg whites, with no additives, can be ordered from Eggology (see
Ingredients Sources
). They keep refrigerated for up to 4 months and more than a year if frozen.

Butter

For cake baking, it is best to choose grade A or AA butter as it contains about 81 percent fat and 15.5 percent water. Lower grades often contain more water, which will have a detrimental effect in the cake batter and will not work well at all in mousseline buttercream. Plugrá butter, Organic Valley European-Style Cultured Butter, Vermont Butter & Cheese Company's Cultured Butter, or French butter have less water so they stay pliant even when cold. They are ideal for buttercreams but will throw off the balance of fat and liquid in a cake.

I prefer unsalted butter because it makes it easier for the baker to control the amount of salt added to the cake and because of its fresher flavor. I recommend a top-quality butter such as Organic Valley's cultured, Hotel Bar, or Land O'Lakes. The flavor of cultured butter is particularly delicious in buttercreams. Weigh butter because a 4-ounce stick of butter when unwrapped often weighs only 3.86 ounces. The European standard for minimum butterfat content is 83 percent. Organic Valley's European-Style Cultured Butter is 84 percent; Vermont Butter & Cheese Company's Cultured Butter is 86 percent fat, the highest butterfat of all American brands. Butter that is cultured has a higher acidity, which makes it softer. This is a desirable quality when butter is chilled.

Butter freezes well for several months with no perceptible difference in flavor or performance. As butter is quick to absorb other aromas or odors, if freezing it, wrap it well in plastic wrap and place it in a resealable plastic freezer storage bag.

Clarified Butter and Browned Butter (Beurre Noisette)