Rose's Heavenly Cakes (7 page)

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Authors: Rose Levy Beranbaum

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Southern (Manhattan) Coconut Cake with Silk Meringue Buttercream
Serves:
16 to 20
Baking Time:
30 to 40 minutes

Seven-minute frosting is just too sweet for my northern tastes, so I have created my own version using one of my favorite airy buttercreams, the Silk Meringue, for this beloved southern cake. The cake itself has wonderful keeping qualities, and if baked a day ahead, the coconut flavor actually intensifies. Although the finished cake stays fresh and moist in the refrigerator for up to one week, it must be eaten at room temperature to have the softest texture and so you can enjoy the light, voluptuous coconut buttercream, which becomes very solid when chilled. Fresh or frozen coconut is ideal for the buttercream, as it keeps the frosting from being too sweet.

Batter

Volume

Ounce

Gram

6 large egg whites, at room temperature

¾ cup (6 fluid ounces)

6.3

180

canned coconut milk (see
Note
)

1 1/3 cups (10.6 fluid ounces), divided

11.5

327

pure vanilla extract

1½ teaspoons

.

.

coconut extract

1½ teaspoons

.

.

cake flour (or bleached all-purpose flour)

4 cups (or 3½ cups), sifted into the cup and leveled off

14

400

superfine sugar

2 cups

14

400

baking powder

5 teaspoons

.

.

salt

1 teaspoon

.

.

unsalted butter (65° to 75°F/19° to 23°C)

16 tablespoons (2 sticks)

8

227

Special Equipment

Two 9 by 2-inch round cake pans, encircled with cake strips, bottoms coated with shortening, topped with parchment rounds, then coated with baking spray with flour

Preheat the Oven

Twenty minutes or more before baking, set an oven rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F/175°C.

Mix the Liquid Ingredients

In a medium bowl, whisk the egg whites, 1/3 cup of the coconut milk, the vanilla, and coconut extract just until lightly combined.

Make the Batter

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the flat beater, mix the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt on low speed for 30 seconds. Add the butter and the remaining coconut milk. Mix on low speed until the dry ingredients are moistened. Raise the speed to medium and beat for 1½ minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl.

Starting on medium-low speed, gradually add the egg white mixture in three parts, beating on medium speed for 20 seconds after each addition to incorporate the ingredients and strengthen the structure. Using a silicone spatula, scrape the batter into the prepared pans and smooth the surfaces evenly with a small offset spatula. Each will be about half full (27 ounces/773 grams).

Bake the Cakes

Bake for 30 to 40 minutes, or until a wire cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean and the cakes spring back when pressed lightly in the center. The cakes should start to shrink from the sides of the pans only after removal from the oven.

Cool and Unmold the Cakes

Let the cakes cool in the pans on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Run a small metal spatula between the sides of the pans and the cakes, pressing firmly against the pans, and invert the cakes onto wire racks that have been coated lightly with nonstick cooking spray. To prevent splitting, reinvert the cakes so that the tops are up. Cool completely.

Note

Before measuring coconut milk, pour it into a bowl and whisk or stir it to a uniform consistency.

Silk Meringue Buttercream
Makes:
about 5½ cups/2 pounds 5 ounces/1 kilogram 50 grams
Crème Anglaise

Volume

Ounce

Gram

sugar

½ cup

3.5

100

about 5 large egg yolks, at room temperature

¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons (3 fluid ounces)

3.2

93

canned coconut milk (see
Highlights for Success
)

½ cup (4 fluid ounces)

4.3

123

pure vanilla extract

1 teaspoon

.

.

coconut extract

1 teaspoon

.

.

Make the Crème Anglaise

Have ready a fine-mesh strainer suspended over a medium bowl.

In a medium heavy saucepan, combine the sugar and yolks.

In a small saucepan, bring the coconut milk to a boil. Add 2 tablespoons to the yolk mixture, stirring constantly. Gradually stir in the remaining coconut milk and cook over medium-low heat, continuing to stir constantly, just until below the boiling point. The mixture will start to steam slightly and an instant-read thermometer will register 170°F/76°C. Immediately pour the coconut milk through the strainer, scraping up any clinging to the bottom of the pan. With the back of a spoon or silicone spatula, press the mixture through the strainer into the bowl. Cool, stirring occasionally. Stir in the vanilla and coconut extract. (To speed cooling, put the bowl inside another bowl partially filled with ice water.)

Set a piece of plastic wrap, coated lightly with nonstick cooking spray, directly onto the surface of the crème anglaise to keep a skin from forming. Refrigerate for up to 5 days, or until ready to complete the buttercream.

Italian Meringue

Volume

Ounce

Gram

2 large egg whites, at room temperature

¼ cup (2 fluid ounces)

2

60

superfine sugar

1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons, divided

3.2

91

water

2 tablespoons

1

30

cream of tartar

¼ teaspoon

.

.

Make the Italian Meringue

Have ready a 1-cup or larger heatproof glass measure.

Place the egg whites in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk beater, or in a medium bowl and have ready a handheld mixer.

In a small heavy saucepan, preferably nonstick, stir together the 1/3 cup of sugar and the water until all the sugar is moistened. Heat on medium-high, stirring until the sugar dissolves and the mixture is bubbling. Stop stirring and reduce the heat to low. (On an electric range, remove the pan from the heat.)

Beat the egg whites on medium speed until foamy. With the mixer off, add the cream of tartar. Raise the speed to medium-high and beat until soft peaks form when the whisk is raised. Gradually beat in the remaining 2 tablespoons of sugar until stiff peaks form when the whisk is raised slowly.

Increase the heat under the sugar syrup to medium-high and boil for a few minutes until an instant-read thermometer registers 248° to 250°F/120°C (the firm-ball stage). Immediately transfer the syrup to the glass measure to stop the cooking.

If using a stand mixer, with the mixer off to keep the syrup from spinning onto the sides of the bowl, add the syrup to the egg whites. Begin by pouring in a small amount of the syrup. Immediately beat on high speed for 5 seconds. Add the remaining syrup in the same way in three parts. For the last addition, use a silicone spatula to remove the syrup clinging to the glass measure and scrape the syrup off against the beater. If it has hardened before most of it has been poured, soften it to pouring consistency for a few seconds in a microwave.

If using a handheld mixer, beat the syrup into the egg whites on high speed in a steady stream. Don't allow the syrup to fall on the beaters or they will spin it onto the sides of the bowl.

Lower the speed to medium and continue beating for 2 minutes. If you don't have a second mixer bowl, transfer the Italian meringue to another bowl.

Completed Silk Meringue Buttercream

Volume

Ounce

Gram

unsalted butter (65° to 75°F/19° to 23°C)

4 sticks

1 pound

454

Crème Anglaise

.

.

.

Italian Meringue

.

.

.

CocoRibe (optional)

2 tablespoons

1

32

fresh or thawed and towel-dried frozen coconut (see
Coconut
), finely grated

2¾ cups, loosely packed

9.7

275

Complete the Buttercream

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk beater, beat the butter on medium speed for 30 seconds, or until creamy. Gradually beat in the crème anglaise until smooth. Add the Italian meringue and beat until just incorporated. If the mixture looks curdled instead of smooth, it is too cold. Allow it to sit at room temperature to warm to 70°F/21°C before continuing to beat, or suspend the bowl over a pan of simmering water (don't let the bottom of the bowl touch the water) and heat very briefly, stirring vigorously when the mixture just starts to melt slightly at the edges. To stop the warming, dip the bottom of the bowl into a larger bowl filled with ice water for a few seconds to cool it. Remove the bowl from the ice water and beat the buttercream by hand until smooth. Beat in the CocoRibe, if using, and 2 cups of the coconut.

Use the buttercream to frost the cake or transfer to an airtight bowl until ready to use.

Compose the Cake

When the cakes are completely cool, spread a little buttercream on a 9-inch cardboard round or serving plate and set one layer on top. If using the plate, slide a few wide strips of wax paper or parchment under the cake to keep the rim of the plate clean.

Evenly spread about 1¼ cups/8.5 ounces/240 grams of buttercream on top before adding the second layer. Frost the top and sides with buttercream. (You will have about 1½ cups left over, which you can freeze to have on hand for frosting cupcakes.)

Place the remaining coconut in a large bowl. Lift the cake and support it on the palm of one hand. Hold the cake over the bowl, tilting it slightly toward the bowl. Cup your other hand and gently apply coconut to the sides of the cake. Sprinkle the top of the cake with the remaining coconut. If using the paper strips, slowly slide them out from under the cake.

Highlights for Success

Use whole (not "light") coconut milk.

Use "natural" coconut extract available at health food stores.

If using frozen coconut, defrost it overnight in the refrigerator or for several hours at room temperature. Break it up with your fingers onto a few layers of paper towels and cover and press to remove any excess moisture. Loosen the coconut again with your fingers so that it falls in separate pieces.

Large flakes of unsweetened coconut, called coconut chips, make a very attractive garnish. They are available at specialty food supply stores, such as Kalustyan's (See
Ingredients Sources
).

Whipped Cream Cake
Serves:
8 to 10
Baking Time:
25 to 35 minutes

This unusual old-time recipe was sent to me by chef Anthony Stella, a restaurateur in Delaware, who asked if I could perform a makeover on it. What intrigued both of us about the recipe was that at first glance it seemed to contain no butter or oil. But on closer analysis, I discovered that the butterfat contained in the cream was more than equal to the usual amount of butter added. My makeover involved a nip and tuck, decreasing the sugar and baking powder and increasing the salt to compensate for the saltiness previously provided by a higher amount of baking powder. I also increased the overall yield by one and a half times and baked the cake in a fluted tube pan to give it an attractive appearance and more center support. The result is a perfectly even and exceptionally moist and tender cake.

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