Pastrami on Rye: An Overstuffed History of the Jewish Deli (32 page)

delicatessens, decline of,
113–189

DeMille, Cecille B.,
127

Dexter’s Restaurant (Bronx, New York),
156

Dilbert’s Quality Supermarkets,
121

Diner, Hasia,
7
,
12
,
21
,
139

Dobias, Joe,
178

Dorfman, Lieutenant Colonel Harold,
97

Doyle, Dane, Bernbach,
125

Dr. Brown’s Cel Ray Tonic,
47–48
,
158

Dragoon, Ronnie,
171

Drucker, Judith Nelson,
105

Dubinsky, David,
77

Duffy, Jennifer Nugent,
8

Dwyer, Thomas,
76

Earl of Sandwich,
5

East Bronx,
89

“East Side Kids” (film series),
87

East Village, New York,
162–164
,
181

Eat ’n Shop Delicatessen (Los Angeles),
102

Ebbets Field,
114

Eden Wok (kosher Chinese, New York),
168
,
179

Eggleston, Edward,
26

Elman, Ziggy,
103
,
145

Environmental consequences of beef production,
144

Epstein, Joseph,
101

Essex Food Shop (Boston),
101

European Kosher,
39

Evans, Sara,
37

F. W. Woolworth Company,
36
,
115

Fairfax Avenue, Los Angeles,
102

Federal Writers’ Project,
58

Feltman, Sissi Perlman,
106

Ferragamo,
137

Ferris, Marcie Cohen,
104

Fiddler on the Roof
(musical),
21

Fixx, Jim,
143

Flatbush,
131

Flushing, Queens,
158

Flushing Delight Delicatessen (New York),
159

Foo, Wong Chin,
26

Ford, Henry,
54

Ford, Tennessee Ernie,
115

Ford, Whitey,
101

Fort Dix (NJ),
98

Four Seasons (New York),
6

Frank and Bob’s Delicatessen,
108

frankfurters (hot dogs),
29
,
39
,
85
,
34
,
41
,
47
,
55
,
58
,
79
,
83
,
84
,
85
,
92
,
94
,
95
,
96
,
97
,
99
; 101,
104
,
114
,
118
,
122
,
123
,
124
,
130
,
136
,
144
,
158
,
168
,
175
,
179
; as phallic symbol,
92
,
122

Freedman, David,
35

Freirich, Jerry,
120

fried fish stall,
35

Friedman, Oscar,
101

Friedman’s Delicatessen (Chicago),
101

Fuchs, Daniel,
71

Gabaccia, Donna,
27
,
131

Gagarin, Yuri,
111

Gaiety Delicatessen (New York),
60
,
70
,
106
,
149

G&G Delicatessen (Boston),
100

garlic,
xiii
,
32
,
81
,
87
,
149
; and anti-Semitism,
36–37

Gay, Ruth,
129

Gayle, Jackie,
152

gefilte fish,
16
,
63
,
64
,
113
,
118
,
133
,
178
,
186

Gellis, Isaac,
38
,
40
.
See also
Isaac Gellis Delicatessen (New York)

Gemini 3 space mission,
111–112

gender roles,
90

George VI, King, and Queen Elizabeth,
92

George and Sid’s Delicatessen (New York),
79

Gersh, Harry,
107
,
117

Gertner, Louisa,
76

G.I. Bill,
115

Gibbon, Edward,
5–6

Gibbons, Barbara,
143

Gittlin’s Kosher Provisions (New York),
39

Glass, Montague,
58
,
75

Glassner, Barry,
142

Glazer, Ruth,
79
,
83
,
129

Gleason, Jackie,
147

Godfrey, Arthur,
124

Gold, David L.,
21

Gold, Jonathan,
10

Gold, Judy,
151

Goldberg, J. J.,
10

Goldberg, Paul,
88
,
115

Golden, Harry,
105

Golden Touch, The
(musical),
55
,
147

Goldfried, Irving,
83–84

Goldfried’s,
87

Goldman, Ari,
138

Goldstein, Al,
162

Goldstein, Charlie,
100

Goldstein, Darra,
12
,
172

Gone With the Wind
(film),
87

Goodman, Benny,
103

Gopnik, Adam,
165

Gosset, Lou,
80

Gottlieb’s Delicatessen (New York),
84
,
87

Gould, Jillian,
34

gourmet food shops: in Europe,
18–20
; on Lower East Side,
27–28

gourmet kosher food,
155–157

Grabstein, Marty,
84

Grabstein’s Delicatessen (Brooklyn),
79
,
84

Graham, Sylvester,
45

Great Neck (New York),
xi
,
89

Green, Irving,
100

Gregory XIII (pope),
18

gribenes
,
185

Grieg, Edvard,
19

Grissom, Virgil “Gus,”
111

Grodsky’s Delicatessen,
115

Grossman, Bob,
133

Grossman, Ruth,
133

Gruber, Ziggy,
70

Gurock, Jeffrey,
89

Gutterman, Leon,
61

H. L. Kaplan & Company (Baltimore),
99

Haber, Yankel,
24

Hager, Murray,
78

Halper, Manny,
121

Halpern’s Delicatessen (Memphis),
104

Halter, Marilyn,
120

halvah,
102

ham and cheese,
104

hamburgers,
92
,
96
,
97

Handwerker, Nathan,
97

Harburger, Julius,
42

Harmon, Lawrence,
100

Harold’s New York Deli (Edison, New Jersey),
180

Harris, Julie,
149

Harris-Shapiro, Carol,
16

“hasher” girl,
69

Hasidic Jews,
154
,
178

health and fitness movement,
141–145

Hebrew National Company,
14
; advertising campaigns of,
122–126
,
125
; origins of,
38–40
; 78,
108–110
,
118
,
120–121

Heiman, Jim,
58

Heinze, Andrew,
119

Henry, Buck,
141

Henry S. Levy & Sons (Brooklyn bakery),
124

Herald Square (New York),
168

Herberg, Will,
128

Herr, Nates,
98

herring,
99
,
104
,
105
,
118
,
172
; “tore a herring,”
203n29

Hertzberg, Rabbi Arthur,
171

Hillel Sandwich,
5

Hindus, Maurice,
33

Hod Carmel Kosher Foods (New York),
40

Hoffman, Jackie,
151

Hollinger, David,
169

Horowitz, Rabbi Yaakov Y.,
168

Horowitz, Scott,
167

Howard, Elston,
101

Howe, Irving,
34
,
138

Hull House (Chicago),
72

Hy Tulip Kosher Delicatessen (Brooklyn),
79

Hyde Park, New York,
92

Hygrade Kosher Meat Company (New York),
40

Hyman, Paula,
31

Iceland, Reuven,
29

Il Monello (Italian restaurant, New York),
137

Il Nido (Italian restaurant, New York,
137

I’ll Say She Is!
(musical),
53

immigrant generation,
6–7
,
13
,
28
,
29
,
31–38
,
45
,
46
,
51
,
54
,
55
,
66
,
69
,
70
,
120
,
138
,
139
,
142
,
145
,
158
,
159
,
161–164
,
180
,
183
,
186
,
189

interwar era,
90

Irish pub,
8

Isaac Gellis Delicatessen (New York),
96

Italian food,
135–138

Italian social club,
8

It’s a Pickle
(video),
164–166

Jacob Branfman and Son,
40
; kosher meat fraud,
49–50

Jacobs, Eli,
168

Jacob’s Ladder (Cedarhurst, L.I.)),
155

Jacobson, Matthew Frye,
48

Jakle, John A.,
36

James, Allison,
131

James, Rian,
59

Jazz Age,
59

Jefferson, Thomas,
24

Jews and intermarriage with Irish,
66–67

Jews keeping kosher,
79–80

Jews moving to Los Angeles,
2

Jews moving to Miami Beach,
2
,
98
,
123

Jochnowitz, Eve,
148

Joe’s Broadway Delicatessen (Miami Beach),
106

Joe’s Stone Crab (Miami Beach),
106

JoeDoe (New York sandwich shop),
178
: vs. JoeDough (upscale restaurant),
178

John Golden Theatre,
63

Johnson, Samuel,
19

Joint Council of Delicatessen StoreDealers,
95

Jolson, Al,
56
,
60
,
63

Jordan, Will,
152

Joselit, Jenna Weissman,
81
,
118
,
119
,
138

Joseph’s Delicatessen (Los Angeles),
102

Junior’s Restaurant (New York),
13

Kahaney, Corey,
151

Kalfus, Ken,
147

Kalmanoff, Martin,
61

Kaminer, Michael,
173

Kanter, Abba,
20

Kaplan, Annie,
108

Kaplan, Josh,
179

Kaplan, Moe,
108

Kaplan, Mordechai,
81

Kaplan, Ricki,
110

Kaplan, Sari,
110

Kaplan’s Delicatessen (Monticello),
108
,
109
,
110

Kaplansky’s Delicatessen (Toronto),
172

Kassner, Diane,
68

Katz, Mickey,
116
,
145–146

Katz’s Delicatessen (New York),
29
,
30
,
89
,
91
,
139
,
141
,
150–152
,
174
,
175
,
177
,
180

Kazin, Alfred,
32
,
45
,
85–87

Keaton, Diane,
149–150

Kellogg, Ella Eaton,
45

Kellogg, John Harvey,
45

Kennedy, John F.,
101
,
129

Kenny and Ziggy’s Delicatessen (Houston, Texas),
179

Kenny and Zuke’s Delicatessen (Portland, Oregon),
172

Kensington Kosher Deli (Great Neck, Long Island),
15

Kessler, Barry,
12

kielbasa,
122

King, Alan,
137

King, Larry,
107

King, Martin Luther, Jr.,
105

Kirshenblatt, Mayer,
22

Kirson, Jessica,
151

kishke
,
2
; grease,
101

Klein, Mannie,
145

kosher delicatessen associations,
93

knishes,
2
,
10
,
13
,
29
,
79
,
89
,
128
,
149
,
158
,
179

Kober, Arthur,
75

Koch, Mayor Ed,
162

Koenig, Leah,
48

Kong-Devito, Mary,
180

Korean War,
101

korobka
,
51

“kosher,” as difficult to define,
51

kosher beef riot,
31

kosher butcher shops,
29
; in the South,
104
,
115

kosher delicatessen,
2
,
11
,
27
,
28
,
29
,
34
,
37
,
39
,
41
,
76
,
77
,
79
,
80–81
,
82
,
87
,
88
,
90
,
91
,
93
,
95
,
99
,
102
,
116
,
117
,
119
,
124
,
128
,
129
,
131
,
133
,
135
; and black market,
94–95
; and food companies,
38–40
; and fraud,
49–51
; glatt kosher,
155
,
158
,
159
,
167
; healthfulness,
45–46
,
123
; and Jewishness, different definitions of,
51–52
,
66
; and literature; 75