Pastrami on Rye: An Overstuffed History of the Jewish Deli (31 page)

21 Club (New York),
6

52 Association,
97

92nd Street Y (New York),
156

999 Real Kosher Sausage,
39
,
78

Aaronson, Sammy,
31

ABC Kitchen (New York),
179

Abie’s Irish Rose
(play),
67

Abrahams, Roger,
55

Abraham’s Delicatessen (Memphis),
104

Adams, Carol,
122

Addams, Jane,
72

Adelman, Karen,
174

Adelman’s Kosher Delicatessen (Brooklyn),
167

African Americans,
4
,
10
,
66
,
105
,
125
,
130
,
180

Ain, Stewart,
167

Aleichem, Sholem,
21
,
39

Alexander, Michael,
13
,
60

Alfred E. Neuman (character),
147

Algonquin Club,
100

Allen, Steve,
124

Allen, Woody,
149–150

Almond Smash soda,
99

Als, Hilton,
4

Ambassador Theatre,
87

American Dream, the,
xiv
,
1

Amsterdam, Morey,
124

Anderson, Max,
39

Annie Hall
(film),
149–150

anti-Semitism,
36–37
,
48
,
127
,
129
,
149
,
150

Arcadia (Southern California) ,
104

Ashkenazic (Eastern European) culture,
7
,
87
,
157
,
169
,
170
,
173
,
183
,
185

Asnas, Max,
60–61

Atkins, Robert ,
143

Attman, Harry,
99

Attman, Seymour,
99

Attman’s Delicatessen (Baltimore),
185

Ausubel, Nathan,
128

Awrach and Perl’s (Baltimore),
98

“Axis origin” of,
92

Bacharach, Burt,
91

bacon,
101
,
143
,
148
,
177
,
178

Bacon, Lloyd,
66

bagels,
33
,
105
,
108
,
116
,
118
,
128
,
146
,
173
,
175
,
177
,
179
,184

Bagg, Lyman,
64

Balinska, Maria,
13

Ballow, Nathan,
98

Ballow’s Delicatessen (Baltimore),
98

Baltimore, Maryland,
12
,
72
,
75
,
99–100
,
185

Barnet Brodie Kosher Foods (New York),
39
,
47

Barney Greengrass (New York),
184

Barney Sheff’s Delicatessen (Boston),
100

Baron, Sandy,
152

Barthes, Roland,14

Bay Parkway, Brooklyn,
85

beef flanken,
105

Belasco, Warren,
2
,
129–130

Bellman, Sheryll,
13

Belushi, John,
141

Ben’s Kosher Delicatessen (New York),
6
,
162

Benjamin of Tudela Restaurant (New York),
155

Benjamin Rachleff Kosher Meats (New York),
95

Bent, Silas,
74

Bentley, Amy,
93

Berger, Joseph ,
157

Berle, Milton,149

Berlin, Irving,
63

Bernamoff, Noah,
13
,
174–177

Bernamoff, Rae,
13

Bernstein, Eleanor,
133–134

Bernstein, Leonard,
145

Bernstein on Essex (New York),
133–134
,
135
,
141
.
See also
Schmulka Bernstein’s Delicatessen

Berra, Yogi,
101

Bial, Henry,
150

Bisman, Aaron,
185

Black Seed Bagels (New York),
177

blue laws,
41

Blue Ridge Mountains (Smokies),
98

Bluebird, The.
See
People’s Cinema

Boca Raton, Florida,
171

bologna,
92

Bond’s Delicatessen (Los Angeles),
104

Borscht Capades
(musical),
146

Boston, Massachusetts,
4
,
8
,
31
,
36
,
100–101
,
171

Bowlby, Rachel,
118

Boyle Heights, Los Angeles,
102

Brass Rail Delicatessen (Charlotte),
105

Breakfast at Tiffany’s
(film),
147

Brice, Fanny,
151

Brillat-Savarin, Jean Anthelme,
20

brisket,
4
,
15
,
50
,
56
,
84
,
106
,
118
,
143
,
155
,
173
,
174
,
184

Broadway Danny Rose
(film),
152

Broadway theater,
53–68
,
70
,
87
,
146
,
147
,
149
,
202n19
,

Bronx, New York,
54
,
75
,
79
,
83
,
88
,
89
,
95
,
110
,
114
,
117
,
121
,
156
,
158
,
160
,
182

Bronx Delicatessen Dealers Association,
95

Brooklyn, New York,
xi
,
4
,
11
,
13
,
15
,
26
,
31
,
33
,
39
,
44
,
54
,
71
,
78
,
79
,
80
,
81
,
83–88
,
92
,
94
,
103
,
114
,
120
,
121
,
124
,
131
,
133
,
136
,
152
,
154
,
156
,
158
,
167
,
169
,
170
,
172
,
179
,
182
,
192n21

Brooklyn Dodgers,
114

Brownsville, Brooklyn,
31
,
51
,
85
,
86
,
95
,
136

Brownsville Kosher Meats (Brooklyn),
95

Burstein, Pesach,
71

Burtson, Bud,
55

Bushwick, Brooklyn,
87

butcher shops,
17
,
28
,
29
,
31
,
42
,
51
,
76
,
77
,
93
,
103
,
104
,
115
,
121
,
133

Caesar, Samuel,
51

Caesar, Sid,
107

Café Masada (New York),
156

Campbell Soup Company,
130

candy stores,
34
,
117
,
131
,
198n63

Canter’s Delicatessen (Los Angeles),
102

Cantor, Jay,
89

Carnegie Delicatessen,
99
,
141
,
149
,
152
,
157
,
164–166
,
167
,
180
,
183

Carroll, Peter N.,
142

Catskill Mountains,
107–110
,
123
,
152
,
174
,
178

Celebrities and the deli,
56

celery tonic,
4
,
35
,
47–48
,
88
,
158
,
174
,
178

Cel-Ray Tonic (Dr. Brown’s),
47–48
,
158

cervelat
,
101

Chan, Millie,
156

Chaplin, Charlie,
62

Charlie Brown (character),
148

Charlotte, North Carolina,
105

Chase, Jack,
118

Cheers
(TV show),
8

cheese blintzes,
110

cheesecake,
4
,
56
,
63
,
70
,
97
,
102

Cherches, Peter,
131

Chicago, Illinois,
28
,
72
,
101–102
,
146
,
147

Chinese food/Chinese delicatessen,
26
; attraction for Jews,
113–114
,
129–135

Chompie’s New York Deli (Phoenix, Arizona),
179

chopped liver,
61
,
89
,
103
,
105
,
110
,
146–147
,
148
,
155
,
163
,
170
,
178
,
184
,
185

Chotzinoff, Samuel,
37
,
40

chow mein,
97

Chrissey, Forrest,
28

Chun King Chinese food,
130

City Grit Restaurant (New York),
173

City Kosher Meats Company (New York),
120

civil rights era,
105

Clancy’s Kosher Wedding
(film),
67

Coca-Cola,
141

coffee house,
35

Cohen, Jerry,
106

Cohen, Lizabeth,
123

Cohen, Mark,
147

Cohen, Rich,
103

Cohen, Wolfie,
106
.
See also
Wolfie’s Delicatessen

Cohens and the Kellys, The
(film),
67

Cohen’s Delicatessen (Los Angeles),
102

Cole, Nat “King,”
101

cole slaw,
71
,
153

Colgate-Palmolive Company,
130

Como, Perry,
110

Condon, Richard,
3

Coney Island, New York,
34
,
80
,
103
,
138

consumer protection laws,
49–41

Copacabana nightclub (New York),
106

Copeland, Senator Royal S.,
47

Copelon, Percy,
146

Corbett, Ruth,
93

corned beef,
95
,
96
,
99
,
101
,
102
,
103
,
104
,
106
,
107
,
108
; in space 110–112

“Corned Beef Row” (Baltimore),
99

Cornell University,
110

Cosell, Howard,
114

Counihan, Carole,
12

Courtney, Geene,
122

Cousin’s Delicatessen (Catskills),
108

crime rates,
114–115

Crystal, Billy,
150–152
,
151

Curb Your Enthusiasm
(TV show),
152–154
,
183
,
153

Cytryn, Rabbi Eric,
137

Dallmayr Delicatessen (Munich, Germany),
19

Dan’s Supreme Super Market,
115
,
121

Danson, Ted,
153

Dassara Restaurant (New York),
179

David, Hal,
91

David, Larry,
142–154
,
183
,
153

Davis, Fred,
170

Debs, Eugene V.,
124

delicatessen food,
7
,
32
; and beachgoing,
88
; and becoming American,
33
,
36
; catering,
11
; in Eastern Europe,
21–22
; etymology,
17
,
26
,
92
; and health,
6
,
47–49
; and masculinity,
148–153
; in music,
145–148
; rising popularity of,
70–76
; in space,
110–112
; and spiciness,
45–56
; and social mobility,
20
; and Sunday closing laws,
43–45
, take-out,
11
; on television,
145
,
152–154

Delicatessen Husband
(story),
74

Delicatessen Kid, The
(film),
67

delicatessen waiter,
11
,
58
,
60
,
64
,
68–70
,
89
; Chinese,
161
,
202n24

“delicatessen wife,”
70–74

delicatessens: in Atlanta,
105
; in Baltimore,
99–100
; in Boston,
100–101
; in the Catskills,
107–110
; in Charleston,
104
; in Charlotte,
105
; in Chicago,
101–102
; and cleanliness,
46–47
; decline of,
113–189
; in Eastern Europe,
23–24
; and eating outdoors,
77
; and excess,
2
; German, in New York,
25–26
; in Germany,
19
,
92
; Eastern European Jewish in America,
1–98
,
114–189
; family gatherings on Sunday nights,
76
,
88
; in film 54–55,
66–67
; 149–152; and gourmet food,
14
; the Great Depression,
76–77
,
82–85
,
90
; hard work in,
82–83
; health concerns,
6
,
14
,
46–49
,
122–123
,
142–145
,
157
,
160
,
188
; homesickness,
33
; and the Jewish vote,
10
; in Los Angeles,
102–103
; on the Lower East Side,
27–34
,
39
,
41–51
,
138–141
; in Memphis,
104
; in Miami Beach 105–107; mom and pop business,
83–85
; in New Orleans,
104
; in New York,
xi-xii
,
1–4
,
6–12
,
25–34
,
37–52
,
54–97
; in outer space,
110–112
; proximity to Broadway,
53–68
; proximity to cinemas,
86–88
; secular Judaism and,
85–86
,
89–90
; and sex,
3
,
9
,
14
,
17
,
45–56
; smell of,
3
; in the suburbs,
115
; in vaudeville,
48