Nuts in the Kitchen (12 page)

Nutty Mussels

Makes 4 servings

At Parisian restaurant 21 Mazarine, chef Paul Minchili, a genius with fish and shellfish, combines flavors and textures that show seafood at its best. This dish is inspired by one he serves at the restaurant, which I have whenever I go. It is so heady with flavor I can never resist!

As the mussels open from the steam of their own juices, the hazelnuts, along with the other ingredients, settle inside the shell so that each mouthful is a burst of flavor and texture. I serve these either as a small first course or as a larger portion for a main dish, accompanied by plenty of fresh bread.

Note:
There is no need to remove the hazelnut skins in this recipe, as the entire nut, with skin, adds flavor and texture. You do need to remove from the mussels the beard, or byssus, which is like a string the mussel uses to attach itself to something solid. It must be removed right before the mussel is cooked, but not in advance or the mussel will spoil. You may be able to find “cleaned” mussels. These have had their byssus cut off, so there is no need to pull it out.

1.
If necessary, debeard the mussels right before you begin to prepare the dish. Keep them in the refrigerator.

2.
Mince the fresh rosemary, and cover to keep the aroma from dissipating.

3.
Heat the olive oil in a wok over medium heat. Add the hazelnuts and cook, stirring constantly, until they begin to turn golden and smell toasty, about 7 minutes. Increase the heat to medium-high. Remove the hazelnuts from the pan. Add the fennel and ginger to the pan and
cook, stirring frequently, until the fennel is tender, about 4 minutes. Stir in the lemon juice, then add the mussels to the wok. Sauté them, stirring them almost constantly, until they open and most but not all of their juices have evaporated, about 7 minutes. Return the hazelnuts to the pan along with the bread crumbs and continue stirring and sautéing until the mussels are cooked through and the bread crumbs are mixed throughout and beginning to smell toasty, about 3 additional minutes.

4.
Stir in the minced rosemary and remove the mussels from the heat. Season them with pepper to taste and serve immediately.

Spiced Mackerel in Parchment with Pine Nuts

Makes 4 servings

Many people claim not to like mackerel, the taste of which is often described as “strong.” When they try it prepared this way, however, cooked in its own juices, delicately swaddled in parchment, seasoned with sweet spices, then topped with toasty pine nuts, their minds are changed and opinions completely reversed.

Note:
When choosing mackerel, look for very firm fish that smells sweet and of the sea. Mackerel has a more intense smell than other fish, but it should always be appealing. Check each fillet for bones and remove them by making what is called a
V cut.
Place the blade of your very sharp knife alongside the row of bones, holding it at a 45-degree angle, and cut right to the skin, but not through it. Repeat on the other side and pull out the slim strip of flesh that contains the bones. The fillet will remain intact.

1.
Preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C).

2.
Rinse the fillets and pat them dry. Refrigerate until just before cooking.

3.
Place the pine nuts in a small, heavy skillet over medium heat and toast them, shaking the pan often so the nuts toast evenly, until the nuts are golden, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer the pine nuts to a bowl and reserve.

4.
Grind the pepper and the cloves to a ne powder in a spice grinder or coffee grinder reserved for that purpose
and mix in a small bowl with the cinnamon and piment d’Espelette. Lightly season each fillet with salt, then sprinkle an equal amount of ground spices evenly over each fillet. Sprinkle each fillet with an equal amount of dried oregano.

5.
Cut four 12 × 8-inch (30 × 20-cm) sheets of parchment paper. Fold horizontally in half, then unfold them. Lay two seasoned fillets on each piece of parchment paper, about 2 inches (5 cm) below the fold line. Fold the upper half down over the fish so the edges meet. Brush the edges with water, then make a narrow fold all the way around to form a pocket, pressing firmly on the fold. Make another fold, this time crimping the edge as you go to seal the packet well. Repeat with the remaining llets and either refrigerate until you are ready to bake them or set them on a baking sheet and bake in the preheated oven until the parchment packets are puffed and golden, about 6 minutes.

6.
Remove the fillets from the oven. Cut open the packets and carefully transfer the fillets to warmed serving plates, arranging them in a X on the plate, crossing them at the tail end. Drizzle the fillets with their juices, sprinkle them lightly with fleur de sel, then sprinkle the pine nuts over and around the fillets. Garnish the plates with the oregano leaves if using and serve immediately.

Fish Fillets Stuffed with Dill, Pine Nuts, and Parsley

Makes 4 servings

The preferred fish for this Swedish recipe is herring, but where I live in Normandy, herring is available for a very short period. Since I like to make this dish year-round, I use mackerel. If you cannot find either fish, use trout fillets, preferably organically farm-raised or wild.

Note:
When transferring the cooked fish to the plate, first transfer the fillet with the stuffing on top of it, then top it with the other fillet. Some of the filling will tumble off the fillet, creating a garnish on the plate.

1.
Rinse the fillets and check them carefully for bones. Remove any bones. Pat them dry and refrigerate.

2.
To make the stuffing, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a small skillet over medium heat and sauté the pine nuts and the garlic, stirring and shaking the pan often so they brown evenly, until both are golden, about 7 minutes. Remove from the heat and reserve.

3.
Mince the herbs and stir them into the pine nuts and garlic, along with the lemon zest and 1 teaspoon of the remaining oil. Reserve.

4.
Heat the remaining tablespoon of oil in a very large nonstick skillet over medium heat or divide the oil between two skillets. When it is hot but not smoking, place the fillets in it, skin side down. Season them with salt and pepper. Evenly divide the stuffing atop four of the
fillets, pressing it gently onto them. Cook the fillets, covered, until they are translucent, 4 to 6 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat. Transfer each fillet with stuffing to a warmed serving plate. Generously season them with pepper. Top each with an unstuffed fillet and serve immediately.

Marinated Fish with Sesame and Macadamias

Makes 6 servings

This is a simple preparation that will seduce the palates of all who taste it, for who can resist toasted coconut and the buttery crunch of toasted macadamias?

While the macadamia is native to Queensland, it was introduced to Hawaii in 1851 as both an ornamental tree and one that would help reforest islands. It was only a matter of years before Hawaii became the largest producer of macadamias in the world. When I spent time in the Hawaiian islands, which are now the world’s second-largest producer of macadamias, I found the nuts used ubiquitously in inspired fish dishes like this one. A white burgundy would be lovely here—try one from Domaine Mont d’Hortes.

Note:
If the exact fish you are looking for doesn’t measure up to your quality standards, simply substitute another.

The fish here can be marinated from 30 minutes to overnight. The flavor naturally intensifies the longer it marinates. Remember to turn the fish from time to time.

1.
Whisk the tamari, palm sugar, shallot, and sake together in a small bowl. Rinse the fish and pat it dry, then lay the fillets in a shallow nonreactive dish and pour the marinade over them. Turn them, cover, and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes and up to 8 hours.

2.
Just before serving, place the spinach in a large Dutch oven or saucepan over medium heat. Cover and cook the spinach, turning it once, until it is wilted but still bright green, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from the heat
and transfer the spinach to a colander to drain. When the spinach has cooled enough to handle, press on it to remove as much liquid as possible—there should still be a slight bit remaining in the spinach, so that it isn’t completely dry. Coarsely chop the spinach, transfer it to a medium bowl, and drizzle it with the soy sauce and sesame oil. Toss thoroughly, taste for seasoning, then reserve, keeping the spinach warm.

3.
Bring 3 cups (750 ml) water to a boil in the bottom half of a steamer. Line the top of the steamer with the lettuce leaves. When the water is boiling, place the fish in the steamer and cook until it is opaque through, about 7 minutes. Transfer the fish from the steamer to a platter and cover it loosely with aluminum foil to keep it warm.

4.
To serve, reheat the spinach if necessary, then divide it evenly among four warmed dinner plates, patting it gently into a small round in the center of the plate. Cover the spinach with a piece of fish, then sprinkle each serving with 2 tablespoons of the macadamia sprinkle and serve.

Gingered Fish on Spiced Macadamia Butter

Makes 6 servings

Nut butters are so versatile, and macadamia butter is one of the best. Here it is teamed with spices and citrus to provide a foil for fish. This is a dish you can make rain or shine, winter or summer, with just about any type of gorgeous fresh fish you find. The play of flavors is fresh and lively, and the resulting dish is easy on the eye.

Note:
I prefer a lean white fish to contrast with the macadamia nut butter, but salmon or swordfish works too. Make this as spicy as you like by leaving in or removing the chile seeds. I recommend using a miniature food processor to make the sauce.

1.
Rinse the fillets and pat them dry. Check them for bones and remove any you find. Refrigerate until just before cooking.

2.
To make the macadamia butter, place the nuts in a food processor and pulse until they are quite finely chopped. Add the ginger, chile, and lime zest and process until all the ingredients are finely chopped and the nuts begin to form a paste. Add the lime juice and salt and continue processing until you have a buttery paste. Transfer the paste to a small bowl and reserve.

3.
To cook the fish, heat the olive oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. When it is hot but not smoking, add the fillets, skin side down. Place three rounds of ginger atop each fillet, evenly spaced. Lightly season each fillet with salt and white pepper. Cover the
fillets and cook until they are opaque through, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and uncover it. Let the fillets sit in the pan while you finish preparing the plates.

4.
While the fish is cooking, form a generous teaspoon of the macadamia butter into a rough pyramid. Set aside and repeat five times. Spread about 2 tablespoons of the remaining macadamia butter in the center of each of six warmed dinner plates, roughly spreading it out the same size as the fillet.

5.
To serve, remove and reserve the three slices of ginger atop each fillet. Lay a fillet atop the macadamia nut butter spread on the plate, skin side up. Place a pyramid of the macadamia nut butter next to the fillet and arrange three of the cooked ginger slices next to the fillet, overlapping them slightly. Their edges will be curled, and they will look like a flower set next to the fish. Arrange three cilantro leaves on each plate so they look attractive. Season the fish lightly with fleur de sel. Repeat with all of the plates and serve immediately.