My Indian Kitchen (5 page)

Fenugreek seeds The fenugreek seeds are bitter yellowish-brown tiny seeds that provide the commercial curry powders with their distinctive aroma. They are used in small quantities because of their strong flavor. The seeds are often oil-roasted and then ground to create a bitter balance in curries in the southern part of India; in the eastern part of India the seeds are stir-fried whole. This is available only in Southeast Asian or Indian grocery stores.

Ginger This is a knobby, pale-brown rhizome of a perennial tropical plant. It is available fresh, dried and ground into powder and as a preserved stem. Ground ginger or preserved ginger is almost never used in Indian cooking. Fresh ginger root has no aroma, but once you peel or cut it, it emits a warm, woody aroma with citrus undertones. When used fresh, it has a peppery hot bite to it. Fresh ginger is used throughout India and is a very common ingredient in Indian cooking. It is often ground into a paste, finely chopped, or made into juice. We use chopped ginger to stir-fry vegetables, crushed ginger or ginger paste in meat stews and legumes and thinly sliced slivers of raw ginger are sometimes sprinkled over curries just before serving. While shopping for fresh ginger, look for hard and heavy root that snaps easily into pieces. Avoid dry, shriveled roots that feel light for their size. Keep fresh ginger in refrigerator crisper in a plastic bag with a paper towel to absorb moisture (to prevent mold, change towel occasionally). It will last for two or three weeks. To extend its life, you can freeze the ginger. You don’t even need to defrost it, and ginger is much easier to grate when frozen.

Ghee This is the Indian version of clarified butter—that is, butter which has its milk solids removed. Ghee is one of the primary cooking fats used in India. Unlike regular clarified butter, the process of making ghee involves melting the butter over a low heat, and then simmering it until all the moisture has evaporated and the milk solids have separated from the fat. The milk solids are then removed to leave a pure fat that is excellent for deep-frying because of its high smoke point. I just love the way ghee infuses food with a delicious flavor and aroma. It has a buttery and a nutty flavor. I often add a few drops to hot rice dishes, dals and curries as finishing oil. Ghee has a very long shelf life and at room temperature will keep up to 4 to 6 months. Store it in a clean airtight plastic or glass jar. Ghee is commonly available in Indian grocery stores and it is typically sold in glass or plastic jars as a solid fat like butter. I have used ghee in many recipes in this book, which I feel brings out the best flavor of those dishes. If you do not have ghee, substitute it with a mixture of equal parts of unsalted butter and neutral-flavored oil. To make ghee at home: Melt 1 pound (500 g) of unsalted butter in a heavy-bottomed, medium-size saucepan over medium-low heat. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until the milk solids turn a rich golden color and settle to the bottom of the pan, about 15 to 20 minutes. Initially, the butter will foam and, as it simmers, the foam will subside. Pass the mixture through a fine-mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth or muslin into a sterilized jar. This recipe makes about 2 cups (500 ml) of ghee. Note: use either one 12-inch-(30-cm)-square piece of fine muslin or four layers of cheesecloth.

Lentils, see dried legumes

Mace It is the dark, red lacy membrane that covers the outside of the nutmeg shell. This is skillfully removed after the fruit burst opens, then flattened and dried to become mace, as we know the spice. Mace has a rich, warm, citrusy, spicy aroma and bitter taste, very similar to nutmeg, only stronger. It is often used in small quantities for making spice blends and pastes, such as Dhaba Spice (page 34) and (page 34). Whole mace, or “blades,” is often toasted and ground and then mixed with yogurt, herbs and other spices to marinate Indian grilled or roasted meats. Whole mace is also an important ingredient in rice dishes made with basmati rice (such as Saffron Chicken Biriyani (page 128), where it imparts a unique flavor to the dish. This aromatic spice is a good match for the wonderful fragrance of basmati rice. Whole mace is available in Indian or Middle Eastern grocery stores or online (see Shopping Guide, page 155).

Mango Mangoes are native to the Indian subcontinent, where they have been grown for more than 4,000 years. Because the mango seed can’t be dispersed naturally by wind or water, due to its large size and weight, it is believed that people who moved from one region to another transported the fruit to new areas. Though mango cultivation has now spread to many parts of the tropical and sub-tropical world, like Brazil, Mexico, west Indies and parts of Florida, nearly half of the world’s mangoes are cultivated in India alone. Mangoes are widely used in Indian cuisine. The green unripe mangoes are sour in taste and are used to make chutneys (Sweet Mango Chutney, page 41), pickles (Green Mango Pickle, page 47) and sometimes side dishes like mango pachadi, which is similar to Carrot Yogurt Slaw (page 46) in this book. (To make mango pachadi, simply replace the carrots with green unripe mangoes.) Green unripe mangoes are also eaten raw with a sprinkle of salt and red chili powder, which is my favorite way to eat them. Panna, a very popular and refreshing summer drink, is made with green unripe mangoes blended with water, mint, sugar, salt, cumin and ice. Ripe mangoes are typically eaten fresh. Sweet Mango Yogurt Lassi (page 152), made by adding mango pulp to yogurt, is the most popular drink in India and Indian restaurants worldwide. Ripe mangoes are used to make desserts (Sweet Mangoes in a Creamy Custard, page 143) and are also used to make savory curries. Aamras, sweetened, thick ripe mango pulp with flavor of cardamom, is a popular dish in western India that is served along with Fried Puffed Bread (page 138). The Alfonso mango is considered the sweetest and best of all eating mangoes. For some recipes, I use canned Alfonzo mango purée (available in Indian grocery stores) when they are not in season. When shopping for ripe mangoes look for mangoes with unblemished yellow skin with a red tinge or blush. Avoid mangoes with bruises or soft spots. You can buy green mangoes and ripen them at home by placing them in a brown paper bag on your counter for a week. Ripe mangoes will last 2 to 3 days at room temperature or for up to 5 days in a plastic bag in the refrigerator. You can find green mangoes in most Indian, Southeast Asian or South American markets. When shopping for green mangoes, make sure they are firm and their skins are dark green in color and unblemished. Store them at room temperature uncovered. They will last about 2 weeks.

Mint Mint is an aromatic, almost exclusively perennial, rarely annual, herb with a very refreshing taste. Fresh mint is used in Indian marinades, chutneys, drinks and desserts, and in curries and rice dishes. I also use dried mint for making breads in my kitchen. Chopped fresh mint leaves steeped in a cup of hot water with tea and honey is one of my favorite after dinner beverages. The spearmint variety is most commonly used in Indian cooking. When purchasing mint, make sure the leaves are fresh and green in color without and black spots or cracks. See “Storage Tips for Spices and Herbs,” page 22.

Mustard seeds These tiny, round, hot and pungent seeds are from an annual plant of the cabbage family. They are available in white, yellow, brown, or black colors. The white seeds, the largest type, are used to make commercial mustards in the United States; and the yellow and brown seeds are used for European mustards and for pickling. In India, the black seeds are used in cooking and are the source of commonly used oil. Black mustard seeds are used whole and in powdered form. The whole seeds are used in vegetable dishes, curries, appetizers, salads, and dried legumes, while the powder is used to flavor steamed fish, pickles, and, again, curries. Mustard seeds are available at Indian grocery stores and online (see Shopping Guide, page 155).

Oils and fats In Indian kitchens, oil is used alone or in combination with ghee (clarified butter) to fry flavorings at the start of cooking or to deep-fry foods. The oil used depends on the culture and region. When I call for oil, you may use any neutral-flavored vegetable oil (for example, canola, safflower or corn oil). In addition to using unflavored oils, Indians use toasted sesame oil, coconut oil, peanut and mustard oil to impart distinct flavors to dishes. I have not used these oils in my recipes as some are hard to find and they give a very distinct flavor to the food, which, though popular in India, can be an acquired taste for non-Indian. When I call for oil for deep-frying, it’s important to use an oil that is relatively stable at high temperatures, such as peanut oil or safflower oil. Additionally, olive oil, which is a very healthy oil, can also be used to cook Indian food.

Paprika Known as kashmiri mirch in India, paprika is a red powder made from the dried, mild, non-pungent chili peppers. It is mainly used for the rich red color it adds to curries. When added to hot oil, it immediately releases a deep red color. Most Indian paprika comes from Kashmir, hence the name. Kashmiri mirch is available at Indian grocery stores or online (see Shopping Guide, page 155). The easily available, mild Hungarian paprika is a good substitute.

Peppercorns These are one of the oldest-known spices and are often referred to as the king of spices. Peppercorns are the berries of the pepper plant, a branching evergreen creeper that grows mainly in the hot and humid monsoons forests of south west India. The plant is indigenous to India and dates back to 4000 B.C. The very tangy, slightly hot berries grow like clusters of grapes on the pepper plant. Peppercorns range in color from white, green to black. White peppercorns are picked ripe, and their outer skin is removed. Green peppercorns are under-ripe berries that are cured in brine. Black peppercorns are picked under ripe and allowed to dry until dark black. Black peppercorns are most commonly used and impart an incredible flavor to all curries. The world’s top quality black pepper is grown in India in the southwest coastal state of Kerala, and is known as Tellicherry pepper. The recipes in this book call for dry and oil-roasted, ground and crushed black peppercorns.

Pulses, see Dried legumes

Rice Rice is an indispensable part of Indian meals. It is served as a staple alongside curries and dals and is eaten at least twice a day in India. There are many distinctive kinds of rice grown and sold in the Indian subcontinent. For everyday meals, the type of rice used varies from region to region. While the people in southern regions prefer the locally available red rice or long-grain variety, northerners prefer the aromatic Basmati rice, which grows in the foothills of the Himalayas. One of my favorite varieties of rice, which I grew up eating, is a medium-grain parboiled rice known as “red boiled rice” or “rosematta rice.” It is made by parboiling the rice paddy before husking. After parboiling, the grain is separated from the husk, thereby leaving a part of the bran on the grain, which gives the rice its red or reddish brown color. It can be boiled as any other form of rice, though it takes twice as long to cook and often requires more water. I have not used it in this book because it is only available at Indian grocery stores or online. If you do run across it and would like to try it, I recommend serving it with dishes from the Southwest of India, and in particular with Coconut Chicken Curry (page 110) and Mangalore Fish Curry (page 105). Basmati, which means “queen of fragrance” in Hindi, is the most popular and the best-known rice of India, and it is the most expensive. It has a wonderful fragrance when cooked with whole spices and is a good match for all Indian dishes. Basmati rice is always used for puloa and biriyani —two types of rice dishes—for it absorbs flavors beautifully and yet keeps its shape during cooking. Basmati rice, though preferred, is not absolutely necessary when making simpler rice preparations, such as Lemon Rice with Peanuts (page 129) or Mint Rice with Potatoes and Toasted Cumin (page 133). Whereas Basmati rice needs to be soaked prior to being rinsed and drained, ordinary long-grain rice only needs to be rinsed and drained.

Rosewater Rosewater or rose syrup is the leftover liquid remaining when rose petals and water are distilled together. It imparts an intoxicating fragrance of roses to rice dishes, desserts and drinks. Considered very auspicious for its aroma, it is also diluted with water and sprinkled at various religious and cultural ceremonies in India. A teaspoonful may be added to desserts (Watermelon Mint Ice, page 142) and drinks like Sweet Mango Yogurt Lassi (page 152) or to rice dishes to create a unique taste and aroma. Rose water is available in Indian or Middle Eastern grocery stores.

Saffron These intense yellow-orange threads are the dried orange-to-deep-red stigmas of a small purple flower of the saffron crocus, a member of the iris family. It is the world’s most expensive spice as it takes almost 75,000 handpicked blossoms to make one pound of saffron. Use saffron sparingly as it just takes four to five strands of saffron to flavor a dish that feeds four. It has a distinctly warm, rich, powerful, and intense flavor. It is available in strands or ground. I recommend the strands for the sake of more assured quality. Gently heat saffron on a dry skillet before using as heat brings out its aroma. There is no acceptable substitute for saffron. Saffron is available in Indian or Middle Eastern grocery stores, gourmet stores and online (see Shopping Guide, page 155).

Salt The most common salt that is used in North America is table salt. It is very fine in texture and is often supplemented with iodine. Table salt, when compared to kosher or sea salt, is much saltier. Sea salt is the most popular salt used in Indian cooking. Measurements used in the recipes in this book are for common table salt. If you prefer to use kosher salt or sea salt, you will most likely need to increase the amount of salt by 10 to 15 percent. However, it is always a good idea to taste and check for seasoning before adding more. Black salt (kala namak) — Contrary to its name, powdered black salt is purplish pink in color. It is an unrefined sea salt with a very strong and sulfurous taste. It is available in rock or powder form, and is very traditional to India. Its distinctive earthy flavor and aroma helps to bring out the flavor in relishes, salads, raitas and snacks. It is an essential ingredient in making (page 35). Black salt is a better choice for those on a low-sodium diet because it has a low-sodium content. It is available in Indian grocery stores. Feel adventurous? Try sprinkling ¼ teaspoon of black salt, a pinch of black pepper and squeeze of fresh lime over a chilled glass of Pepsi or Coke to enjoy a masala cola, an popular Indian street-style summer beverage.