Modernist Cooking Made Easy (19 page)

Carrageenan

There are many types of carrageenan and they are very good at thickening dairy products and adding good mouthfeel. The liquid has to be heated before the carrageenan will hydrate.

Mono and Diglycerides

Mono and diglycerides are used to thicken and emulsify oils and fats. They are introduced by heating the oil and dissolving them into it.

Tapioca Maltodextrin

Commonly called N-Zorbit M or Texturas Malto, tapioca maltodextrin thickens oils. This can range from creating a light paste to a fine powder. It is commonly stirred or whisked into the oil until the desired texture is achieved.

Xanthan Gum

A good all around thickener that hydrates at almost any temperature and a wide range of pH. It is commonly used at ratios of 0.2% to 1%, though it can result in an undesirable mouthfeel at high concentrations, almost resembling mucus. Because it hydrates and thickens very quickly it can be added slowly to a liquid until it obtains the thickness desired, removing the need to always weigh it.

C
HIMICHURRI
S
AUCE

Chimichurri is a very flavorful Argentinian sauce that is used both to marinate and sauce dishes. There are many different varieties and here is one of my favorites.

Chimichurri is usually made with culantro, but that can be very hard to find so here I substitute cilantro, which has a similar flavor. You can also use parsley if you prefer.

The small amount of xanthan gum helps to thicken the sauce slightly and prevent it from breaking, as well as more effectively suspending the herbs. It can be used on grilled steak like a traditional chimichurri but it is also great on chicken or a topping for vegetables.

Tools Needed

Xanthan gum

Standing or immersion blender

A scale with small gram measurements

Ingredients

1 bunch culantro or cilantro

6 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped

3 tablespoons onion, diced

73 grams cider vinegar, about 5 tablespoons

60 grams water, about 4 tablespoons

2 teaspoons dried oregano

1 teaspoon hot pepper flakes, or to taste

Salt and pepper

215 grams olive oil, about 1 cup

0.7 grams xanthan gum, 0.2%

Add all of the ingredients except the xanthan gum to a blender or a container that works well with your immersion blender. Blend well to combine the ingredients.

Taste the sauce for seasoning and adjust the olive oil and vinegar to control the acidity. Once the sauce tastes balanced, sprinkle in the xanthan gum and blend well to combine.

B
OURBON
G
LAZE

This bourbon glaze is one of my most raved about recipes. It’s often used as a glaze on grilled pork or chicken but can also be used as a sauce after the food has been cooked.

Traditionally, the sauce would need to be simmer for 30 minutes in order to reduce it to a good consistency. The addition of the xanthan gum cuts the whole cooking time to under 10 minutes from start to finish.

Tools Needed

Xanthan gum

Immersion blender

A scale with small gram measurements

Ingredients

207 grams bourbon whiskey, about 1 cup

110 grams brown sugar, about ½ cup

140 grams ketchup, about ½ cup

10 grams Worcester sauce, about 2 teaspoons

5 grams liquid smoke, about 1 teaspoon

60 grams apple juice, about ¼ cup

12 grams lemon juice, about 1 tablespoon

1 teaspoon chopped garlic

½ teaspoon cayenne pepper

¼ teaspoon dry mustard

Salt and pepper

1.5 grams xanthan gum, 0.3%

Add all of the ingredients except the xanthan gum to a pot over medium-high heat. Bring to a simmer, stirring occasionally.

Taste the glaze for seasoning and adjust as needed. Once the glaze tastes balanced, remove from the heat.

Sprinkle in some of the xanthan gum and blend well to combine. Taste it for thickness and mouthfeel. If you need it thicker, continue adding xanthan gum and blending well until it has the thickness and mouthfeel you are looking for.

A
PPLE
C
IDER
S
YRUP

The combination of apples and pork goes way back. When I cook pork chops I like to make a pan sauce using apple cider and then reduce it to a thick syrup. However, sometimes I’m in a rush and want something to come together quickly so I’ll make this version of the sauce. It’s not quite as complex and nuanced but it’s much quicker to put together and uses about a quarter as much butter. It also has a much brighter flavor because the cider hasn’t caramelized while it was reducing.

Tools Needed

Xanthan gum

Immersion blender

A scale with small gram measurements

Ingredients

1 tablespoon butter

1 shallot, minced

2 tablespoons chopped sage leaves

Salt and pepper

350 grams good apple cider, about 1½ cups

1.75 grams xanthan gum, 0.5%

Melt the butter in a small pot over medium heat. Add the shallot, sage, salt, and pepper then cook for 5 minutes.

Add the apple cider and let come up to temperature. Sprinkle the xanthan gum in the cider and blend will with an immersion blender.

Remove from the heat and spoon on pork or another food.

L
OW
F
AT
C
HOCOLATE
M
ILK
S
HAKE

In this recipe I use xanthan gum to thicken milk to emulate a chocolate milk shake. There are several advantages to this method over using ice cream to create a milk shake. You can use skim milk in this recipe and the taste does not change much, so you can have a very low fat milk shake. The milk shake also will not “melt” like a real milk shake would.

It might not replace a thick, homestyle milkshake but it can be a much healthy snack!

Tools Needed

Xanthan gum

Standing blender

A scale with small gram measurements

Ingredients

25 grams sugar, about 2 tablespoons

500 grams milk, about 2 cups

1 banana

A few drops vanilla extract, to taste

10 grams cocoa powder, about 2 teaspoons

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

12 ice cubes

2 grams xanthan gum, 0.4%

Add all of the ingredients except the xanthan gum to a blender. Blend well until it becomes a smooth mixture.

Turn the blender to a speed that forms a vortex. Sprinkle the xanthan gum into the blender and mix well.

The milk shake is now ready to drink.

C
INNAMON
P
UDDING

There are many ways to make pudding but I like this version using iota carrageenan. It uses much less thickener than a traditional pudding, making the flavors stand out more. You also use milk instead of cream without sacrificing mouthfeel.

This is my quick version of the recipe. If you want a more refined version steep the milk with some cinnamon sticks and a vanilla bean instead of using the extract. The pudding should either be set in the serving dishes, it is too fragile to unmold, or pureed after setting for a finer texture and poured into a serving dish.

Tools Needed

Iota carrageenan

Immersion blender

Molds

A scale with small gram measurements

Ingredients

500 grams milk, preferably 2% or whole, about 2 cups

0.2 grams iota carrageenan, 0.04%

1 tablespoon powdered cinnamon

½ teaspoon vanilla extract

16 grams white sugar, about 2 teaspoons

Place 250 grams of the milk in a pot. Mix in the iota carrageenan with an immersion blender until combined well. Bring the milk to a simmer over medium to medium-high heat and blend again for 30 to 60 seconds with the immersion blender to ensure even distribution and full hydration.

Stir in the cinnamon, vanilla, and sugar and blend for 30 seconds with the immersion blender until fully combined. Taste and adjust the flavors as needed, they will be diluted with the additional milk but you should be able to balance them at this point.

Remove the pot from the heat and blend in the remaining milk with the immersion blender.

Place the pudding in the refrigerator to set. Once it has cooled and set you can serve as is or use the immersion blender to briefly break it up into a creamier pudding.

B
ACON
P
OWDER

This bacon powder is a great way to add flavor and texture to different dishes. I’ve used it to sprinkle over New England clam chowder at the last minute to add a visual treat and a flavor that melts through the dish. I’ve also used the more paste-like version as a spread on BLTs and lox. You can follow this general recipe with almost any type of oil.

Tools Needed

Tapioca maltodextrin

A scale with small gram measurements

Ingredients

100 grams rendered bacon fat

3 grams salt

50 - 80 grams
tapioca maltodextrin
, the actual amount will depend on the quality and type of bacon fat you use, 50% - 80%

Heat the rendered bacon fat until it becomes a liquid. Pour it into a bowl large enough to comfortably hold it. Whisk in the salt.

To turn the bacon fat into powder begin to whisk in the tapioca maltodextrin. Once it begins to thicken and clump you can add it in more slowly and you may have to start using a fork to incorporate the maltodextrin as whisks will often fill with the paste. Continue to add tapioca maltodextrin while mixing until it forms the texture you want.

For a finer, more powder-like texture you can run the thickened bacon fat through a tamis or, to a lesser extent, a chinois.

When you are ready to serve the bacon powder simply spoon or sprinkle it over the dish.

The powder will last for several hours at room temperature or in the refrigerator for several days.

J
ALAPENO
S
PREAD

This jalapeno spread infuses the heat of jalapenos into canola oil which is then thickened. It is a good topping to grilled meats, or a spicy spread for bread. This process of infusing oil with flavors before thickening it leads to countless variations you can adapt to any dish.