With
a heavy, sharp knife, chop the tuna into very small pieces. In a mixing bowl, combine the tuna, chives, capers, shallots, lemon juice, oil, salt and pepper, and chill for 1 hour.
Whilst the tuna is chilling, prepare the cucumber boats. Peel the cucumber and cut into 2-inch-long disks. With a teaspoon, scoop out the seeds from inside the cucumber without touching the very bottom of the cucumber. (In other words, leave a “bottom” in the hollowed-out center of the cucumber.)
PRESENTATION
Season the cucumber with salt and pepper. Fill with 1 teaspoon of tuna tartare. Top with
1
/
8
teaspoon of caviar. Garnish with a sprig of parsley.
A Note on Caviar
Caviar is the roe (fish eggs) of sturgeon and is, undoubtedly, a luxury. There are levels of quality (and price)âbased on the type and location of the sturgeon, and the size, color, and texture of the eggs. The most widely known (because it is the most expensive) is beluga. But there are others that are wonderful, and less pricey. Each type has its own qualities, not necessarily negative ones. I often use osetra, which, in terms of price, is “second on the list.” Following it are sevruga and American sturgeon (which I daresay can actually be considered affordable). You do not have to deny yourself the pleasure of having caviar because of stratospheric prices. Check out one of the other types, and you may be pleasantly surprised.
A Note on Raw Tuna and Salmon
Sashimi-grade yellowfin tuna is referred to as “ahi.” It is of a quality suitable for eating raw. Fresh raw salmon is referred to as “sake.” (Same spelling as the rice wine, but with the accent on the other syllable.) Sake is of a quality suitable for salmon tartare.
FOR THE CHICKEN
6 pieces boneless chicken breast, cut into strips
¼ cup white sesame seeds
¼ cup black sesame seeds
2 tablespoons chili powder
2 tablespoons salt
1 tablespoon garlic powder
FOR THE PEANUT DIPPING SAUCE
½ cup peanut butter
½ cup Coco Lopez coconut cream
1
/
8
cup soy sauce (low salt)
4 tablespoons honey
¼ cup chicken broth
EQUIPMENT
Bamboo skewers, 6 or 8 inches long
Preheat
the oven to 325 degrees.
“Weave” a bamboo skewer through the length of each chicken strip (as you would run a straight pin through fabric). Mix the sesame seeds, chili powder, salt, and garlic powder in a shallow bowl. Dip the chicken into warm water and roll in the seed mixture. Bake on a lightly greased sheet pan until done, about 20 minutes.
To make the dipping sauce, in a mixing bowl, combine the peanut butter, Coco Lopez, soy sauce, and honey, and mix well. It will be thick. Slowly mix the chicken broth into the peanut butter mixture. It should be of medium consistency for dipping. Serve with the sesame chicken.
I'm your chefâ¦
B
Y NOW, WE ARE WELL INTO PRODUCTION ON OUR NEW SERIES FOR FOOD
Network, starring your humble correspondent. It's all very hush-hush at this moment, but if and when everything goes to plan, it should be coming to a television screen near you, and then we will all hope for the best.
This is a goal I have had for a long time, and I have pushed for it in a number of different ways over the past eleven years or so. There have been many twists, turns, and stumbles and, I have to admit, I despaired of the idea more than once.
Then I decided simply to focus on the food. Come what may, I went about my business, leaving myself open to fate and opportunity, and I tried to make every menu, every dish, every plate, and every bite just the tiniest, most incrementally smallest bit better than the one before.
So far, so good.
You have and will have big challenges in your life, so here's a last bit of culinary advice. It has to do with a classical recipe for serving a whole elephant. The recipe is simple. First, you catch the elephant, then you cook it.
But if you ever want to finish it, you have to eat it one bite at a time.
Bon appétit!
The pagination of this electronic edition does not match the edition from which it was created. To locate a specific passage, please use the search feature of your e-book reader.
Note:
Italicized
page references indicate recipe photographs.
Apricot Ravioli with Sabayon,
209,
209-10
Asparagus Parmesan Frittata, 206
Bacon and Cheese Quiche, 212
Banana Bread and Butter Pudding, 61
Beef Wellington with Bordelaise Sauce,
116,
116-18
Beef with Bamboo Shoots, 89
Black Angus Beef Tartare with Toasted Brioche and Fried Quail Egg,
207,
207-8
Blackened Tenderloin of Beef with Roasted Sweet Corn and Potato Hash and a Merlot Reduction,
28,
28-30
Black-Peppered Skate with Arugula, Peach, and Wild Rice Pilaf and a Citrus Emulsion,
271,
271-72
Brie with Strawberries on Brioche Crostini, 284
Bubble and Squeak, 64
Carrots and Rutabaga,
55,
59
Chapati with Onion, 175,
176
Chicken Mushroom Barley Soup, 227
Chicken Roulade with Prosciutto, Spinach, and Sun-Dried Tomato Stuffing, Served with Tomato Demi-Glace,
199,
199-200
Chicken Tikka Masala,
128,
128-29
Chilled Grand Marnier Soufflé with Macerated Fruits,
31,
31-32
Chocolate and Oatmeal Cookies, 92
Cold Leek and Potato Soup,
194,
194-95
Colossal Crab, Apple, and Fennel Salad with Chive Oil, 263
Country Chicken-Fried Steak with Corn Bread and Wilted Spinach, 262
Creole-Style Red Snapper with Farmhouse Grits and Red Pepper Coulis,
26,
26-27
Crisp Sea Bass with Stuffed Leeks,
41,
41-43
Crispy Potato and Goat Cheese, Chive Oil, and 8-Year Balsamic,
269,
269-70
Duck Breast Stuffed with Apples and Chestnuts and Roasted in Bacon,
196,
196-98
Dungeness Crab Cakes with Lemon Vinaigrette and Asparagus,
152,
152-53
French Onion Soup, 70,
70
Fried Green Tomatoes and Goat Cheese, Topped with Greens and Lemon Oil,
94,
94-95
Green Peppercorn Steak au Poivre,
236,
236-37
Grilled Maple and Balsamic-Glazed Pork Chops with Three Potato Hash, 141
Grilled Winter Vegetables with Pesto Dressing, 182
Hassleback Herbed Roasted Potatoes,
55,
57
Horseradish-Crusted Salmon with Braised Endive and a Beet Reduction,
46,
46-47
Jamaican Jerk Chicken,
223,
223-24
Lemon Meringue Pie,
72,
72-73
Lemon Thyme-Infused Chicken over a Warm Leek, Asparagus, and Red Bliss Potato Salad, 144-45
Lobster Risotto with Clams,
252,
252-53
Lobster Salad with Spicy Cucumber Gazpacho,
156,
156-57
Maine Lobster Salad,
267,
267-68
Mango Barbecued Mahimahi over a Corn-Chipotle Salad, 275,
276
Margate Shrimp Cocktail, 56
Marinated Black Cod with Acacia Honey, 137
Maryland Corn Crab Chowder, 93
Maryland Crab Cakes with Mango Salsa, 71
Mince Pies,
82,
82-83
Mixed Vegetable Curry, 172,
172
Nantucket Bay Scallop Ceviche,
138,
138-39
Oven-Roasted Tomatoes, Asparagus, and Hearts of Palm, Tossed with a Sherry Mustard Vinaigrette,
122,
122-23
Pan-Roasted Black Bass with Prawns over Cauliflower Risotto, 243-44
Pan-Roasted Wild Striped Bass with Roasted Tomato and Broccoli Rabe Medley, 125
Pan-Seared Salmon, Haricot Vert Salad, and Herbed Mustard Dressing, 169-70
Pan-Seared Salmon with Bok Choy Cashew Salad and Orange Soy Glaze, 151,
151
Parmesan Peas, 60
Pear Apple Crumb Pie, 232
Pear Soufflé, 214-15
Pork Vindaloo,
176,
176-77
Potato Pie, 58
Provençal Vegetable Soup, 35-36
Roasted Duck with White Bean Ragout, Truffle Oil, and Shaved Parmesan Cheese,
154,
154-55
Roasted Rack of Lamb, Stuffed with Summer Ratatouille,
201,
201-2
Roasted Vegetable Crepes with Roasted Red Pepper Sauce,
179,
179-80
Rogan Josh (Lamb with Tomatoes and Almonds), 173-74
Rösti Potatoes with Goat Cheese and Wilted Arugula or Spinach,
90,
90-91
Royal Rice Pudding, 10
Sautéed Red Snapper and Shrimp with Salad of Fennel, Zucchini, and Roasted Tomatoes,
273,
273-74
Sautéed Sea Bass with Crisp Potato Crust,
134,
134-35
Seafood Fra Diavolo with Tricolor Penne Pasta,
147,
147-48
Seared Chicken Fontina with Warm Cabbage Slaw, 264
Seared Lamb Loin with Roasted Beets, Feta Cheese, and Orange Mint Salad, 100,
101
Sea Scallops with Guacamole, 285,
285
Sesame Chicken Saté with Peanut Sauce, 288,
288
Sesame-Crusted Tuna with Asian Mushroom Salad and Ponzu Sauce, 131
Short Ribs Braised with Mushrooms, Pearl Onions, and Bacon, 102-3,
103
Shrimp Bisque, 74
Shrimp Scampi Provençal, 265
Spicy Flank Steak with Watermelon and Cherry Tomato Salad, Tossed with Cilantro Lime Vinaigrette, 260,
261
Summer Tomato Soup,
183,
183-84
Sunday Roast Beef, 54,
55
Tastiest Ribs, 7-8
Tea-Smoked Chicken with Chilled Sour Brussels Sprouts Salad,
239,
239-42
Three Bean Ragout, 9
Tuna Poached in Olive Oil over Shrimp and Yukon Gold Mashed Potatoes, 158
Tuna Tartare in a Cucumber Boat Topped with Caviar,
286,
286-87
Upside-Down Apple Tart,
104,
104-5
Vegetable Barley Risotto Style, 181
Warm Rock Shrimp and Lobster Flan, Baby Arugula Salad, and Champagne Sabayon, 21-25,
23
Wild Mushroom Soup, 217
Windsor Angel Food Cake,
38,
38-39
Yorkshire Pudding, 54,
55
Academy Awards ceremony, 11-20
Aguirre, Mark, 259
Al-Bustan Palace Hotel, 215
Andersson, Conny, 13
Appetizers.
See
Starters
Apple(s)
and Chestnuts, Duck Breast Stuffed with, and Roasted in Bacon,
196,
196-98
Colossal Crab, and Fennel Salad with Chive Oil, 263
Pear Crumb Pie, 232
Tart, Upside-Down,
104,
104-5
Apricot Ravioli with Sabayon,
209,
209-10
Arugula
Baby, Salad, Warm Rock Shrimp and Lobster Flan, and Champagne Sabayon, 21-25,
23
or Spinach, Wilted, and Goat Cheese, Rösti Potatoes with,
90,
90-91
Peach, and Wild Rice Pilaf and a Citrus Emulsion, Black-Peppered Skate with,
271,
271-72
washing, note about, 25
Asparagus
Leek, and Red Bliss Potato Salad, Warm, Lemon Thyme-Infused Chicken over a, 144-45
and Lemon Vinaigrette, Dungeness Crab Cakes with,
152,
152-53
Oven-Roasted Tomatoes, and Hearts of Palm, Tossed with a Sherry Mustard Vinaigrette,
122,
122-23
Parmesan Frittata, 206
Avocados
Maine Lobster Salad,
267,
267-68
Sea Scallops with Guacamole, 285,
285
Avondoglio, Kirk, 12-13, 16
Avondoglio, Mark, 14
Bacon and Cheese Quiche, 212
Bamboo Shoots, Beef with, 89
Banana Bread and Butter Pudding, 61
Barley
Chicken Mushroom Soup, 227
Vegetable, Risotto Style, 181
Bean(s)
Pan-Seared Salmon, Haricot Vert Salad, and Herbed Mustard Dressing, 169-70
Provençcal Vegetable Soup, 35-36
Three, Ragout, 9
White, Ragout, Truffle Oil, and Shaved Parmesan Cheese, Roasted Duck with,
154,
154-55
Beef
with Bamboo Shoots, 89
Black Angus, Tartare with Toasted Brioche and Fried Quail Egg,
207,
207-8
Country Chicken-Fried Steak with Corn Bread and Wilted Spinach, 262
Green Peppercorn Steak au Poivre,
236,
236-37
Roast, Sunday, 54,
55
Short Ribs Braised with Mushrooms, Pearl Onions, and Bacon, 102-3,
103
Spicy Flank Steak with Watermelon and Cherry Tomato Salad, Tossed with Cilantro Lime Vinaigrette, 260, 267
Tenderloin of, Blackened, with Roasted Sweet Corn and Potato Hash and a Merlot Reduction,
28,
28-30
Wellington with Bordelaise Sauce,
116,
116-18
Beet Reduction and Braised Endive, Horseradish-Crusted Salmon with,
46,
46-47
Beets, Roasted, Feta Cheese, and Orange Mint Salad, Seared Lamb Loin with, 100,
101
Black Bass, Pan-Roasted, with Prawns over Cauliflower Risotto, 243-44
Black Cod, Marinated, with Acacia Honey, 137
Blair, Tony, 257
Bodfish, David, 68
Bok Choy Cashew Salad and Orange Soy Glaze, Pan-Seared Salmon with, 151,
151
Bordelaise Sauce (Bordeaux Sauce), 118
Bouquet garni, note about, 75
Bread
and Butter Pudding, Banana, 61
Chapati with Onion, 175,
176
Indian, note about, 172
Britannia
(Royal Yacht), 2-6, 88, 119
Broccoli Rabe and Tomato Medley, Roasted, Pan-Roasted Wild Striped Bass with, 125
Brussels Sprouts, Sour, Salad, Tea-Smoked Chicken with,
239,
239-42
Bubble and Squeak,
64
Buckingham Palace, 87-88
Bush, George H. W., 257
Bush, George W., 257
Butter, clarified, 129, 177
Cabbage
Bubble and Squeak,
64
Slaw, Warm, Seared Chicken Fontina with, 264
Caesar's, 11, 231, 251
Cake, Angel Food, Windsor,
38,
38-39
California, 11-20
Caracciola, Robert, 250
Carrots
Bubble and Squeak,
64
and Rutabaga,
55,
59
Cauliflower Risotto, Pan-Roasted Black Bass with Prawns over, 243-44
Caviar, notes about, 91, 287
Celebrity Cruises, 193
Ceviche, Nantucket Bay Scallop,
138,
138-39
Chaine de Rôtisseurs
dinners, 230
Chapati with Onion, 175,
176
Charles, Prince of Wales, 84, 86, 87, 114-15, 119, 142
Cheese
Asparagus Parmesan Frittata, 206
and Bacon Quiche, 212
Brie with Strawberries on Brioche Crostini, 284
Feta, Roasted Beets, and Orange Mint Salad, Seared Lamb Loin with, 100,
101
French Onion Soup, 70,
70
Goat, and Crispy Potato, Chive Oil, and 8-Year Balsamic,
269,
269-70
Goat, and Fried Green Tomatoes, Topped with Greens and Lemon Oil,
94,
94-95
Goat, and Wilted Arugula or Spinach, Rosti Potatoes with,
90,
90-91
Parmesan Peas, 60
Seared Chicken Fontina with Warm Cabbage Slaw, 264
Chestnuts and Apples, Duck Breast Stuffed with, and Roasted in Bacon,
196,
196-98
Chicken
butterflying, note about, 198
Jamaican Jerk,
223,
223-24
Lemon Thyme-Infused, over a Warm Leek, Asparagus, and Red Bliss Potato Salad, 144-45
Mushroom Barley Soup, 227
Roulade with Prosciutto, Spinach, and Sun-Dried Tomato Stuffing, Served with Tomato Demi-Glace,
199,
199-200
Saté, Sesame, with Peanut Sauce, 288,
288
Seared, Fontina with Warm Cabbage Slaw, 264
Tea-Smoked, with Chilled Sour Brussels Sprouts Salad,
239,
239-42
Tikka Masala,
128,
128-29
Chipotle peppers, note about, 275
Chive Oil, 263
Chocolate and Oatmeal Cookies, 92
Chodorow, Jeffrey, 13
Chowder, Maryland Corn Crab, 93
Cilantro, notes about, 139, 177
Clams
Lobster Risotto with,
252,
252-53
Seafood Fra Diavolo with Tricolor Penne Pasta,
147,
147-48
Clinton, Bill, 257
Cookie cutters, note about, 211
Cookies, Chocolate and Oatmeal, 92
Cooking skills
achieving excellence in, 159
French cuisine, 188-93
fundamental concepts, 203-4
high-quality ingredients and, 48, 113-15
importance of, 40
Italian cuisine, 146
learning, 44-45, 203-5
mise en place, 40
passion required for, 220-22, 233-35, 238
style and presentation, 254-59
Corbin, Anthony, 226
Coriander, note about, 177
Corn
-Chipotle Salad, Mango Barbecued Mahimahi over a, 275,
276
Crab Chowder, Maryland, 93
Roasted Sweet, and Potato Hash and a Merlot Reduction, Blackened Tenderloin of Beef with,
28,
28-30
Corn Bread and Wilted Spinach, Country Chicken-Fried Steak with, 262
Cotta, Walter, 13
Crab
Cakes, Maryland, with Mango Salsa, 71
Colossal, Apple, and Fennel Salad with Chive Oil, 263
Corn Chowder, Maryland, 93
Dungeness, Cakes with Lemon Vinaigrette and Asparagus,
152,
152-53
Crème fraîche, note about, 25
Crepes, Roasted Vegetable, with Roasted Red Pepper Sauce,
179,
179-80
Cucumber
Boat, Tuna Tartare in a, Topped with Caviar,
286,
286-87
Gazpacho, Spicy, Lobster Salad with,
156,
156-57
Curried dishes
Chicken Tikka Masala,
128,
128-29
Mixed Vegetable Curry, 172,
172
Pork Vindaloo,
176,
176-77
Rogan Josh (Lamb with Tomatoes and Almonds), 173-74