James Beard's New Fish Cookery (45 page)

1 tablespoon curry powder

24 oysters on the half shell

Toasted bread crumbs

Prepare the sauce béchamel and add the shrimp and curry powder. Arrange the oysters on beds of rock salt and top each one with the sauce. Sprinkle with toasted crumbs and bake in a 475° oven for 4 or 5 minutes.

OYSTERS PAPRIKA

24 oysters on the half shell

3 medium onions, finely chopped

6 tablespoons butter

1/3 cup chopped mushrooms

1 cup sauce béchamel (page 23)

1 tablespoon, or more, paprika

Toasted bread crumbs

Arrange the oysters on beds of rock salt. Sauté the onion in the butter until tender, but not browned. Add the mushrooms and blend well. Prepare the béchamel and add 1 tablespoon or more paprika to color and flavor it. Combine with the onions and mushrooms. Spoon this over the oysters and sprinkle lightly with crumbs and paprika. Bake in a 475° oven for about 5 minutes or until the oysters are just cooked through.

CRUMBED OYSTERS

24 oysters on the half shell

1 cup toasted bread crumbs

8 tablespoons butter

Parsley

Chives

Arrange the oysters on beds of rock salt. Fry the bread crumbs in the butter until very crisp and brown. Top the oysters with the bread crumbs and sprinkle with chopped parsley and chives. Bake in a 475° oven for about 5 minutes or until the oysters curl at the edges.

OYSTERS CASINO

Here again, there are many versions of the recipe, so I include several. One thing on which everyone agrees is that oysters casino always contain green pepper and bacon.

24 oysters on the half shell

1/2 cup butter

1/3 cup finely chopped shallots

1/4 cup finely chopped parsley

1/4 cup finely chopped green pepper

Lemon juice

Bacon, partially cooked

Arrange the oysters on beds of rock salt. Blend the butter, shallots, parsley, and green pepper. Spoon this over the oysters and add a dash of lemon juice to each one. Top with pieces of partially cooked bacon. Bake in a 450° oven until the bacon is brown and the oysters cooked through.

VARIATIONS

1. Try out 1/2 cup of finely chopped bacon. Add 1/3 cup finely chopped onion, 1/3, cup finely chopped green pepper, 1/4 cup finely chopped celery, 1 teaspoon lemon juice, salt, pepper, Worcestershire sauce, and a few drops of Tabasco. Spoon this over the oysters, which have been placed on beds of rock salt. Bake in a 350° oven for 10 minutes.

2. Sprinkle the oysters with finely chopped green pepper and onion and top each one with a piece of bacon. Bake in a 450° oven until the bacon is done and the oysters cooked through.

OYSTER LOAF

There is an old story that oyster loaves were always “guilty conscience” presents or peace offerings. To take home an oyster loaf in New Orleans and certain other places meant that you had been misbehaving and were trying to get back into good graces. I can remember homes in my youth where oyster loaves were so constantly served that surely bad deeds must have been the regular rule.

1 loaf of bread, unsliced

Butter

Fried or sautéed oysters

For this dish, try to find a really good loaf of bread — difficult these days, I know, but try. The round Italian loaves will do, or the regular loaf-pan loaves. Cut about a 2/3-inch slice off the top of the loaf. Scoop out the interior, leaving a wall about 1/2 inch thick all around. Toast the loaf in a slow oven until it is nicely browned and then brush it well with butter. Fill it with hot fried oysters and put the cover on. To serve, slice with a sharp knife.

These may be made in individual sizes as well. French rolls — or, if you can find them, those rolls that are baked in miniature bread pans — are ideal for this.

I hate to mention it, but the traditional condiment with any oyster loaf is tomato catsup or chili sauce.

NOTE
: Any other type of seafood may be substituted for the oysters in this recipe.

OYSTER FRITTERS

Drain the oysters well and roll them in flour. Preheat fat or oil to 380°. Dip the oysters in beer batter (page 99) and fry in the deep fat for about 2 minutes, or until browned and crisp. Drain on absorbent paper and salt and pepper to taste. Serve with a tartar sauce (pages 35–36) or rémoulade (page 35).

OYSTER CROUSTADES

Roll brioche dough 1/2 inch thick and cut it in small rounds. Place two oysters apiece on half of the rounds, sprinkle them with salt and freshly ground black pepper; add a dab of butter and some chopped parsley. Dampen the edges of the rounds. Cover each with another round of dough, press the edges together, and fry in deep fat, heated to 375°, until they have risen and browned. Turn once during the cooking. Serve with a tartar sauce (pages 35–36) or tomato sauce (page 23). For brioche dough, see pages 189–190.

VARIATION

Substitute rounds of roll or bread dough for the brioche.

OYSTER PAN ROAST

A pan roast is really oysters poached in butter — and they must have plenty of butter to be good. Personally, I think the tiny oysters of the Pacific Coast are far better for this dish than the larger ones.

1. Melt 1/2 cup butter (1/4 pound) in a skillet. Add 1 pint drained oysters, salt, plenty of freshly ground pepper, a dash of cayenne pepper, and a good squirt of lemon or lime juice. When the oysters are plumped and puffy the pan roast is done. I like mine served on fried toast.

2. Proceed in the same way, adding 2 tablespoons catsup and 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce.

3. When the butter is melted, add 1/3 cup chopped shallots or green onions and 1/4 cup chopped parsley. Add the drained oysters, a dash of red wine, and let it all boil up for 3 minutes.

4. Add 1 clove crushed garlic, 3 tablespoons tomato paste, and 1 teaspoon dry mustard to the butter. Then add the oysters and a dash of lemon juice.

5. Sauté 1/3 cup chopped shallots or green onions and 1/3 cup chopped green peppers in butter until tender. Add the drained oysters, salt, and freshly ground black pepper. A dash of vermouth or white wine makes this extra good.

DEVILS ON HORSEBACK

Wrap oysters individually in thin rashers of bacon and broil until the bacon is crisp. Turn once while cooking. (For added dash, you may, before cooking, marinate the oysters in white wine flavored with garlic and black pepper.)

ANGELS ON HORSEBACK

Sprinkle oysters with finely chopped onion and parsley and wrap in paper-thin strips of smoked ham. Broil for 5 to 8 minutes, turning once. Serve on buttered toast with Hollandaise sauce (pages 25–26).

OYSTERS EN BROCHETTE I

For each brochette:

4 oysters

Lemon juice

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

3 to 4 mushroom caps

1 long strip of bacon

Butter

Parsley

Sprinkle the oysters with the lemon juice, salt, and pepper. At the end of the brochette place a mushroom cap. Next put the end of the bacon strip, then an oyster, then loop the bacon around the oyster onto the brochette again, add another mushroom, another oyster and continue until you have used four oysters. Brush with butter and broil over charcoal or under the broiler, turning several times. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve with lemon wedges.

OYSTERS EN BROCHETTE II

Alternate small cubes of beef tenderloin and oysters on a skewer. Brush well with butter and broil until the beef is delicately browned and the oysters cooked through. Salt and pepper to taste and brush with plenty of butter before serving.

OYSTERS EN BROCHETTE III

Alternate oysters, small tomatoes or chunks of tomato, mushrooms, and small cubes of cooked ham. Brush with butter and broil. Salt and pepper to taste and sprinkle with lemon juice.

CREAMED OYSTERS

1 pint sauce velouté (page 21)

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons sherry
or
Madei$$$

1 pint oysters

Patty shells
or
croustades

Make a sauce velouté, using some of the oyster liquor, and season well. Add the wine. Add the drained oysters and cook them just long enough to curl the edges. Serve on croustades or in patty shells that have been heated through.

VARIATION

If your baker makes a good puff paste, order a vol au vent, or make it yourself. Fill it with oysters in the sauce velouté and serve it with a salad of beets, hard-cooked eggs, and tender greens. Pass some crisp French bread and a cheese tray. This is an outstanding late evening supper. You can dramatize it by preparing the sauce in the chafing dish and filling the vol au vent at the table.

OYSTER PUREE

1/2 cup rice

1 quart bottled clam juice

4 tablespoons butter

18 oysters

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon Tabasco

11/2 cups heavy cream

1/4 cup cognac

Cook the rice in the clam juice until very soft. Add the butter. Force through a sieve, or puree in a blender. Finely chop 12 of the oysters, and swirl in a blender with their liquid. Add to the rice mixture. Season to taste with salt and pepper; add the Tabasco. Stir in the heavy cream. Heat just to the boiling point. Add the 6 whole oysters and heat just until they curl at the edges. Add the cognac and cook two minutes. Ladle into heated cups, putting a whole oyster in each cup. Garnish with chopped parsley and serve with crisp melba toast.

OYSTER OMELET

Prepare omelets in your usual fashion. Fold in oysters in velouté sauce or fried oysters. Serve with shoestring potatoes and a delicate white wine.

OYSTER CHOWDER

4 tablespoons butter

3 tablespoons chopped onion

3/4 cup finely cut celery

3 carrots, finely diced

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Sprig of thyme

1 cup fish broth
or
white wine

2 cups diced potatoes

1 quart milk

1 pint oysters

1/3 cup chopped parsley

Melt the butter in a saucepan and add the onion, celery, and carrots. Brown very quickly and salt and pepper to taste. Cover and let them cook for 5 to 8 minutes. Add the oyster liquor, the thyme, and the fish broth or white wine and bring to a boil. Add the potatoes; cover and simmer until the potatoes are tender. Add the milk and let it come just to the boiling point. Add the oysters and let them cook until the edges curl. Pour into bowls or a tureen and sprinkle liberally with chopped parsley.

OYSTER CLUB SANDWICH

This is a combination of fried oysters, bacon, tomato, lettuce, and mayonnaise on toasted white or rye bread. It’s a very good dish late at night or for luncheon. This is a fine old recipe, almost traditional enough to be considered a classic.

SCALLOPED OYSTERS

This is a favorite old New England dish that has always had a place of honor at all functions — especially at holiday feasts — in that part of the country. It has never been popular with me but I can understand why many people like it.

Butter

1 cup freshly rolled saltine cracker crumbs

1 pint oysters

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Nutmeg

1/4 cup oyster liquor

4 tablespoons cream

1/2 cup buttered bread crumbs

Butter a baking dish and place a layer of cracker crumbs on the bottom. Place a layer of oysters over that and sprinkle with the salt, pepper, and a little nutmeg. Add 2 tablespoons of the oyster liquor, 2 tablespoons of the cream, and dot well with butter. Add a layer of cracker and bread crumbs mixed, then another layer of oysters, seasonings, and liquids. Dot with butter, cover with cracker crumbs, and top with bread crumbs. Add a little more cream, sprinkle with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and dot with butter. Bake at 425° for approximately 40 minutes.

OYSTER STEW I

4 tablespoons or more butter

1/2 pint milk

1 pint cream

11/2 pints oysters and liquor

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Cayenne pepper

First of all heat the bowls. When they are hot, put a large piece of butter in each one and keep the bowls hot. Heat the milk, cream, and oyster liquor to the boiling point. Salt and pepper to taste and add a dash of cayenne. Add the oysters and let it come to the boiling point again. Ladle into the hot bowls. You may add a dash of paprika, if you like. I prefer my stew with hot crunchy French bread, although crackers are the traditional accompaniment.

This recipe makes four generous or six medium-sized servings.

OYSTER STEW II

4 tablespoons butter

11/2 pints oysters

1 quart milk
or
half cream and half milk

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Paprika

Melt the butter, add the drained oysters and cook until the edges curl — about 3 minutes. Add the liquids, season to taste, and bring just to the boiling point. Serve with a dash of paprika. This will serve six people.

ZELMA SETON’S OYSTER STEW

1 cup milk

3 cups cream

3 cups oysters, with their liquor

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Tabasco

4 to 6 tablespoons butter

Heat the milk and cream with the oyster liquor; add salt and pepper to taste and a dash or two of Tabasco. In a separate skillet melt the butter (be sure to have plenty). Take your oysters and toss them into the butter while it is bubbling. Shake the pan vigorously until the oysters just barely curl at the edges and have plumped. Don’t overcook them, please. They should just heat through. When the milk and cream come to the boil, combine the delicately sautéed oysters with the liquid. Taste for seasoning, and serve in warm bowls with crisp buttered toast or a selection of crackers. Tossing the oysters in the butter first makes all the difference. The stew is much more flavorful.

FRIED OYSTERS

Among the most vivid gastronomical memories of my childhood are the visits we made to the home of friends who were in the oyster business. They had huge sacks of oysters sent to their beach home every week and when these arrived we knew we were in for many treats. The greatest treat of all would come after an early morning venture of clamming and crabbing followed by a dip in the surf. Then we would climb the sand dunes to the house with ravenous appetites, to be met by a wonderful aroma — a mixture of melting butter and coffee gently simmering. In the kitchen there would be a magnificent sight — dozens of freshly opened oysters dipped in beaten egg and rolled in crushed cracker crumbs. On the stove would be two huge iron skillets with a half inch of bubbling butter in each one, waiting to brown the delicate morsels as soon as we were seated at the table.