India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (93 page)

By Bus
If you want to travel to Goa but all trains and flights are full, or if you want to save on airfare, your next-best option is a bus from Mumbai, Pune, Hyderabad, Bangalore, or Mangalore. Numerous overnight buses leave from Mumbai (near Metro Cinema–Fashion St.) every day at 7pm; book an air-conditioned bus and bring a blanket (although some companies supply these). Preferably, this should be a sleeper (around Rs 1,000). If you’re traveling alone, note that you will sleep beside a stranger; if this makes you nervous, buy two tickets. Another option is to go for a semisleeper or “slumberette,” a comfy 135-degree reclining seat which is slightly cheaper.
Paulo Travels
(Goa:
0832/663-7777
or 0832/243-8531 through -8537; Mumbai:
022/2643-3023;
www.paulotravels.com
) is a reliable private operator with an efficient online booking system; bookings can also be made at the small ticket booths near St. Xavier’s College, Mumbai. If you are booking through other agents, make sure you ask for a Volvo bus (better suspension, more spacious seating) and that you get a confirmed ticket with your seat number. For the north Goa beaches, jump off at Mapusa; for the south, at Panjim, Margao, or Canacona (best to ask the conductor where the best stop for your destination is).
Note:
A single woman can request to have another woman seated beside her, though this may not always happen. Seats in the first few rows have more leg room.

VISITOR INFORMATION
You don’t need to waste your time in Goa shuffling around looking for a tourist office; speak to the owner or concierge where you’re staying, and you’ll get everything you need to know. For general information on the state, visit
www.goatourism.org
. Goa’s tourism department releases a twice-monthly magazine called
What’s On
(
0832/222-4132;
www.goa-tourism.com
), which gives a comprehensive listing of the events and parties scheduled in all corners of Goa. Many of the upmarket hotels also stock various advertising brochures, maps and booklets that may have
some
useful information or list upcoming events.

GETTING AROUND
Note that it shouldn’t take much longer than 4 hours to cruise the entire coastline, so everything in this chapter is within easy reach. For quick reference, here are distances between major destinations from Panjim: Margaon 33km (21 miles); Mapusa 13km (8 miles); Old Goa 10km (6 1⁄4 miles); Calangute 16km (10 miles); Vagator 22km (14 miles); Ponda 30km (19 miles).

By Motorbike
Motorbikes are
très
cool in Goa, and you’ll encounter an endless barrage of young backpackers and old hippies zipping around Goa’s roads on two-wheelers—sans helmets (potentially a little frightening). You can rent a bike for around Rs 200 to Rs 300 a day with a private license plate as opposed to Rs 250 to Rs 500 a day for a government-approved bike (these are identified by their yellow license plates); note that if you are stopped by the traffic cops, you will be fined for renting a private vehicle. Have your international two-wheeler driver’s license handy, and check the bike thoroughly before handing over any cash (if you don’t have a license, a gearless bike is easy to use even if you’ve never ridden them before). Note that if you hire a two-wheeler without insurance, you must pay for the repairs. You can find motorbikes practically everywhere, but we really recommend that you do this only through your hotel or guesthouse, or through the aforementioned
Paulo Travels.
If you don’t have a license, there are plenty of
motorcycle pilots
in Goa—which is a more cost-effective way of getting around than by taxi. When someone stops to ask if you need a lift (and they will), negotiate a price in advance. And if you don’t like the pace or style of driving, say something immediately. All approved pilots will have yellow license plates—which does not necessarily mean they will have helmets; be warned that motorcyclists are killed on these roads every year.

By Taxi & Auto-Rickshaw
Negotiate privately with one of the many taxi drivers found around tourist areas—including those near your hotel entranceway (you can get one through your hotel, of course, but at a five-star lodging the cost will almost double—in fact, if you
look
like you’re staying at one of the upmarket places, chances are you’ll be quoted accordingly). Figure on spending Rs 1,000 to Rs 1,500 for about 80km (50 miles) or 8 hours of sightseeing, but specify which locations you hope to cover. Remember that if you need a one-way lift to a more remote region, you’ll be asked to pay for the return journey. In fact, many drivers now charge twice the distance no matter how near or far the drop-off. If you plan to take a day trip to a far-off beach, you’re better off fixing a price for the day (Rs 1,400 for a trip to Palolem from Anjuna—substantially more if you require an air-conditioned vehicle). An additional Rs 50 to Rs 100 is usually charged after 9pm. Auto-rickshaws are cheaper than taxis, but a great deal more uncomfortable.
Dalesh
is a reliable taxi driver (
98-2210-2964
) who can be booked for the whole day or for a pickup or drop-off. South of Panjim, you can contact
Wilson Fernandes
(
98-2384-2587
), who is based in Colva; he charges Rs 1,000 to Rs 1,200 for a trip from Palolem to the airport, and around Rs 3,000 for a return trip from the south to Fort Tiracol in the north.
Note:
All rates vary according to demand, season, and vehicle type. If you’re counting rupees, you might want to ask the rates from a couple of taxi drivers before settling on a ride.

By Car
Goa is also perhaps the only place in India where you can hire self-drive cars, but given the driving culture (and complete lack of adequate road signage), we wouldn’t recommend doing so; like many of the motorbike rental services, most of the car rental outfits aren’t registered or licensed to commercially rent out vehicles. Consequently, you may not be properly insured—you hire at your own risk; if you have an accident, you pay for the repairs. For better, fully insured cars with or without a chauffeur, call Dominic of
Vailankanni Auto Hires
(
0832/248-9568,
0832/329-0584, or 98-2210-1598;
www.goacabs.com
), based in Candolim.

By Bus
Buses ply their way up and down the state, stopping in a rather chaotic fashion whenever someone needs to get on or off. If you’re in a hurry, try to catch an express bus; otherwise you could be in for an endless series of stop-starts—it is, however, the cheapest way of getting around (less than $1 from one end to the other) and a fun way of getting acquainted with local folk (and Goan music)! Most buses stop after 7:30pm.

By Boat
Betty’s Place
(
0832/287-1038;
www.bettygoa.com
), a beach shack near The Leela Kempinski resort on Mobor Beach in south Goa, offers a variety of boat trips, including customized cruises—these need to be booked quite well in advance. At Kenilworth Beach Resort, also in south Goa,
Sea Adventure
(Utorda;
98-2216-1712
) organizes bird-watching and a backwater cruise that takes in basking river crocodiles. There are countless early morning
dolphin-spotting cruises
up and down the coast, but unfortunately there are so many boats and water scooters gunning for the poor dolphins that the sustainability (and pleasure) of this activity has been diminished in recent years; until tourism authorities wake up and bring some order we would urge you not to add to the harassment.