India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (385 page)

Chinoiserie
CHINESE The finest Chinese restaurant in Kolkata dishes out delicious Szechuan and Cantonese cuisine. Centered around a beautiful raindrop chandelier, with private corners for business lunches and romantic dinners, cloth paintings done by an artist from Shantiniketan, photographs of ancient Chinese artifacts, and, bizarrely, a blues and soul soundtrack—Chinoiserie breaks all stereotypes. If the menu proves bewildering, turn to chef Lian for guidance, but be warned: He is passionate about almost everything! Our recommendation would be to start with crispy duck with pancakes and sweet bean sauce or the delicious banana fish roll. Amazingly light golden-fried prawns are accompanied by Lian’s special green sauce. For the main course try stir-fried chicken with pickled chilies, braised Chinese cabbage with ginger, and fish with oyster sauce. End with white fungus (which, contrary to its name, is delicious) or tofu with coconut—and pair the meal with cups of Chinese tea. Unlike in most other Chinese restaurants, the emphasis here is on flavor, which comes across in everything you eat.

Taj Bengal, 34B Belvedere Rd., Alipore.
033/2223-3939.
www.tajhotels.com
. Average meal for 2 Rs 2,000. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 12:30–2:45pm and 7:30–11:45pm.

Fire and Ice
ITALIAN When Annamaria started out selling tomato sauce to hotels it probably never crossed her mind that a decade later she would be serving her brand of simple, authentic Italian in two restaurants (in India and Nepal). Fire and Ice is excellent value for money and the spacious restaurant an unpretentious haven, with exposed brick walls, photographs of Hollywood and Bollywood classics, and an open kitchen where you can see Annamaria puttering around, making sure the pizzas are just right. The
antipasta misto
and penne pesto are highly recommended, as is the Fire of Bengal pizza. Make sure you save space for the delicious homemade apple pie served with imported vanilla ice cream. The evenings are great here specially since they got their liquor license, but it’s also a lovely place to hang out during the day over a cup of excellent coffee or iced tea.

Kanak Bldg., 41, J.L. Nehru Rd., opposite Jeevan Deep Bldg.
033/2288-4073.
www.fireandicepizzeria.com
. Meal for 2 Rs 500. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11am–midnight.

The Hub
ECLECTIC A highlight here is the “food theater” experience, during which guests can watch a five-course meal being prepared, and then dig into the results. Start with the intriguing souplike concoction called
porcini cappuccino
(porcini mushrooms, white wine, pepper, cream, and butter), followed by the pan-fried
bhetki
(fish) with grilled vegetables, white wine, and garlic bisque sauce; leave enough space to end with the scrumptious mud pie with banana caramel ice cream. You could also opt to save a visit for its fabulous Sunday brunch.

Taj Bengal, 34B Belvedere Rd., Alipore.
033/2223-3939.
www.tajhotels.com
. Main courses Rs 450–Rs 1,500; buffet Rs 800. Food theater Rs 425–Rs 850. Sun brunch Rs 1,395. AE, DC, MC, V. Open 24 hr.

Kewpie’s
BENGALI Popular with local celebrities and bigwig visitors to the city, this tiny family kitchen has been well marketed but is not necessarily the most authentic (for that you’re better off visiting
Suruchi,
ideally combined with a visit to South Park Cemetery). The menu changes daily, but the highlight is Kewpie’s thali (multicourse platter)––various fish, vegetable, and meat items (or strictly vegetarian items), served with different breads.

2 Elgin Lane, off Heysham Rd., behind Netaji Bhavan.
033/2486-1600
or -9929. Nonvegetarian thali Rs 415 per person. MC, V. Tues–Sun 12:30–3pm and 7:30–11pm.

Saffron
CONTEMPORARY INDIAN/FUSION Saffron’s executive chef Rajiv Khullar has transformed the menu to showcase local Bengali cuisine as well as a host of Pan-Indian specialties, all cooked strictly using Indian methods, but often with ingredients from around the world. The
daab chingri,
prawns simmered in coconut milk gravy, is a real treat, as is the
jhalfarezi masala duck
.
Shahtoosh kebab,
a chicken filet marinated with pistachio and cooked in a tandoor is guaranteed to melt in your mouth and is one of the restaurant’s signature dishes. Or try the more traditional saffron-infused
kacchi gosht biryani
or chicken Chettinad. Vegetarians are also well catered to. Leave space for creative desserts like
mishthi doi mousse
(traditional Bengali sweet curd made into mousse)
and
notun gurer rasmalai ice cream—
they even have a sampler if you share the same weakness as the Bengalis for sweets.

The Park hotel, 17 Park St.
033/2249-9000.
www.theparkhotels.com
. Main courses Rs 355–Rs 795. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 12:45–2:45pm and 7:30–11:45pm (last orders).