India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (383 page)

120, Deshapran Sasmal Rd., Kolkata 700 033.
033/2417-6022.
www.thetollygungeclub.com
. Reservations:
Glenburn (
033/2288-5630
or 98-3007-0213). 66 units (with showers). Rs 5,000 single or double, including breakfast and taxes. MC, V.
Amenities:
3 restaurants; 4 bars; lounge; billiards; bridge room; doctor-on-call; 18-hole golf course; health club; horse riding; Internet (Rs 33/30 min); ice-cream parlor; outdoor/indoor/heated pool; room service; outdoor tennis; ayurvedic spa; squash. In room: A/C, TV, fridge.

Vedic Village
For those yearning for a taste of the famous vigorous and oily massage, the Vedic Village is a boon. Located just 20 minutes from the airport and about an hour from the city, it is a collection of thoughtfully landscaped villas, suites, studios, and farmhouses—the interiors for most are a little bland but the deluxe lake villas and earth villas are quite decent with extremely spacious bathrooms. Local materials like bamboo and grass coexist with state of the art massage chairs; a lovely lake acts as a centerpiece, while cabbages grow boisterously amid blooming flowers. The lotus-shaped pool is their pride but we found it lacked privacy, specially since there are eight conference rooms in the area. The USP is decidedly the medical spa—it is the only one of its kind hereabouts and offers long-term naturopathy and Ayurvedic therapies as well as cosmetic and relaxing treatments—ideal for a quick stopover before taking your flight back home.

PS Rajarhat PO Bagu, Shikharpur, Rajarhat, Kolkata 700 135.
03216/27-2760
or 98308-20445. Fax 033/2287-1311.
www.thevedicvillage.com
. 200 units. Rs 5,000 studio; Rs 6,000 deluxe resort bungalow room/standard suite; Rs 7,000 1-bedroom suite; Rs 10,000 2-bedroom suite; Rs 10,000 earth villa; Rs 12,000 deluxe villa; rates include breakfast for 2 persons and taxes. AE, DC, MC, V.
Amenities:
2 restaurants; bar; airport transfer (Rs 850); doctor-on-call; health club and spa; outdoor pool; room service. In room: A/C, TV, Internet (Rs 50/30 min.), massage chairs in villas, minibar.

WHERE TO DINE

Bengalis are known for their fine palates and love of dining out, and a wide range of cuisines are theirs to choose from. Make sure to sample
Kolkata-Mughlai food
—blending the best of the Bengali
Nawabs’
cuisine with influences from the Deccan, Awadh, and North India—at least once.
Nizam’s,
which has been given a makeover recently (1 Corporation Place, just behind The Oberoi Grand), claims to be the place where the
kathi
kebab roll (kebabs wrapped in a
paratha
—fried bread) was invented. The food is legendary, and the prices unbeatable but don’t expect any sophistication in service or ambience. Another popular Bengali-Muslim joint is
Shiraz
(56 Park St., at the intersection of Park St. and A.J.C. Bose Rd.;
033/2287-7702
or 033/2280-5006). Go to the first floor for air-conditioned comfort, or up to the rooftop. The extensive menu includes numerous exotic-sounding Kolkata-Mughlai items, as well as a range of kebabs.

If you’re in the vicinity of Nakhoda Mosque, try the
Royal Indian Hotel
(147 Rabindra Sarani;
033/2268-1073
), which opened in 1905 and is the oldest restaurant of its kind. On Thursday or Sunday, you can order
murgh mussalam
(chicken); mutton
chanps tikiya
(chops) is another specialty (available on all days except Thurs).

Chinese cuisine is popular with Kolkatans—
Mainland China
(Uniworth House, 3A Gurusadary Rd.;
033/2283-7964
through -7969;
www.mainlandchinaindia.com
) is one of the most popular, but serves typical Indian-Chinese: a tomato base, and heavy emphasis on chilies. Good choices include Peking-style lamb cooked in black pepper sauce, Hunan-style prawns, and Szechuan chili crab.

Park Street, one of the city’s busiest hubs, is lined cheek-by-jowl with restaurants and stalls serving all kinds of interesting food.
Peter Cat
(18A Park St.;
033/2229-8841
or 033/2217-2942), set in a pleasant colonial bungalow, serves an outstanding
chelo kebab
platter (Rs 148), skewered meat kebabs on a bed of flavored rice. This is a popular after-work watering hole, though service is often shoddy. Avoid it at lunchtime on weekdays when it’s packed with local office-goers. Also on Park Street is
Mocambo
(25B Park St.;
033/2229-0095
or 033/2217-5372), which serves decent Western fare (try the tasty deviled crabs and sizzlers (steak or kebab and vegetable platters).