India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (289 page)

Surya Mahal
INDIAN/INTERNATIONAL This fine dining restaurant at Rajvilās vies with Survana Mahal as the most romantic place to have dinner in Jaipur. Lit by huge burning braziers, the courtyard features a raised platform where beautiful Rajasthani women give a short performance of their traditional dance (Sept 15–Mar only). Apart from the live entertainment—and there’s always melodic musical accompaniment—cuisine is excellent. You can sample the tastes of the region with a Rajasthani thali (multicourse platter), or order the
laal maas
(lamb braised with Mathania chilies and yogurt, and smoked with cloves and garlic) or the
shammi kebab,
minced lamb flavored with mace and cardamom and then filled with hung yogurt. Or you can give the Indian dishes a break, and choose from roasted Chilean sea bass, or perfectly roasted Australian rack of lamb.

Rajvilās, Goner Rd., Jaipur.
0141/268-0101.
Reservations essential. Rs 700–Rs 1,850. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–3pm and 7–10:30pm.

Suvarna Mahal
INDIAN/CONTINENTAL A must for any special occasion, this is one of those venues that turns the most ordinary night into a memorable one. A grand double-volume colonial dining room lies behind enormous doors that signal a night of opulence: the glow of four alabaster lamps is enhanced by huge gilded mirrors, walls are covered in rich gold fabric, and the ceiling is painted in Italian Renaissance style While the menu changes regularly, you can ask your waiter for suggestions; food is very good but it’s the old-world ambience that makes this such a special place to dine.

Rambagh Palace (see “Where to Stay,” above)
0141/221-1919.
Rs 500–Rs 1,700. AE, MC, V. Daily 7–11pm.

Lassi Heaven

Across the road from Niros is
Lassiwalla,
favored by locals as the place to experience a lassi (cold yogurt drink). Not only is the lassi (salty or sweet; sadly, no banana) exquisitely creamy, but the price (just Rs 20–Rs 30 for a large) includes the handmade terra-cotta mug it’s served in—to be kept as a memento or (as the locals do) thrown away after use. You need to buy a token at the front and then join a second thronging mass at the side to exchange it for your rewarding drink. Imitators have sprung up next door, so make sure you go to the right one; the original lassi-walla is always busy, and a sign above the stall reads
OLDEST SHOP IN JAIPUR
and features an image of baby Krishna. The current owner is Ashok Agarwal (
0141/237-6892
), grandson of Govind Narain, who started the stall decades ago. He serves nothing but lassis and is usually sold out by 4pm.

SHOPPING

Only Mumbai or Delhi comes close to offering the array of goods found here, and foreign buyers for wholesale and retail outlets descend in droves to stock up on textiles, rugs, pottery, jewelry, shoes, miniature paintings, and ready-made clothing and housewares. It’s a cornucopia here, and the pressure to buy is immense—not least because everyone seems to be a tout for someone (see “Understanding the Commission System,” below). Finding your way around the Old City is relatively easy—the divisions based on what is produced still hold true, though you’ll find much more besides. Following are a few rough guidelines.

For jewelry and gems, head for
Johari Bazaar
in the Old City—the gem center of Jaipur (look for Bhuramal Rajmal Surana). While you’re there, pick up a cool pair of
jootis
(traditional camel-hide sandals) at
Shivam Nagara Palace
(Shop 11, Johari Bazaar;
0141/257-1468
). Alternatively, wander through
Chameliwala Market,
beyond Zarawar Singh Gate, on Amber Road, particularly if you’re in search of silver, tribal, or ornamental jewelry.
Silver Mountain
(
0141/237-7399
) and
Maneeka
(
0141/237-5913
), both located at Chameliwala Market, are recommended.

Numerous factories and showrooms run the length of Amber Road, including those specializing in hand-blocked prints and antiques. And if you’re looking to take home some of Jaipur’s famous blue pottery, Amber Road is also where you’ll find the largest concentration of outlets:
Jaipur Blue Pottery Art Centre
(near Jain Mandir, Amber Rd.;
0141/263-5375
) is a reliable place to pick up items like blue pottery vases, trays, coasters, and wall plates. If you’re considering redecorating your home with a classy, upscale Indian look, definitely venture into
AKFD
(B-6/A-1 Prithviraj Rd., C-Scheme;
0141/236-4863
), a fantastic one-stop interior design store with beautiful creations by the hard-working owners and covetable items from across the country.