India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (349 page)

Tip:
If you’re looking for cash, an SBI (State Bank of India) ATM is located on the main street of McLeod Ganj; be warned, however, that there’s inevitably a queue, 20-strong, waiting to use it. At press time there were two other ATMs on the verge of opening, but we’d still strongly advise that you draw cash before landing in McLeod Ganj where so much of the shopping is cash only. Consider stopping at the ICICI or HDFC machines that operate in lower Dharamsala on your way up. For changing or transferring foreign exchange, you can use Thomas Cook (next to SBI) or any of the Western Union outlets.

THE KANGRA VALLEY

If you have the time and want to veer slightly off the beaten track, definitely head southeast of Dharamsala toward the gently undulating tea-covered hills of Kangra Valley. Although it lacks any particular charms of its own,
Palampur
is a popular starting point for Kangra Valley. Nearby is
Tashijong Monastery,
a colorful
gompa
established in the years after the Dalai Lama made his home in Dharamsala. The neighboring town of Baijnath is the site of the beautiful
Saivite
Vaidyanath Temple complex
(Baijnath Main Rd.; daily 5am–9pm in summer and 6am–8pm in winter), one of the more interesting and best-preserved Hindu shrines in Himachal Pradesh, dating from the early 13th century. Surrounded by a wall decorated by fine carvings, the main temple enshrines a squat Shiva lingam protected by a five-headed metallic cobra; devotees usually cover the lingam with flowers and other offerings. A half-hour drive in the other direction will take you to
Andretta Pottery and Craft Society
(
01894/25-4243;
www.andrettapottery.com
), where the extremely passionate Jugal Kishore will be happy to explain the objectives behind this training school—modest accommodation is available for those who feel like attending short-term classes.

Pragpur
(6 hr. from Shimla; 7 hr. from Manali; 21⁄2 hr. from Palampur) is a time-trapped village with mud-plastered, slate-roofed houses, elegant
havelis
(mansions), Italianate buildings, and narrow cobblestone roads. Designated India’s first official “Heritage Village,” this tiny hamlet was founded as a memorial to a brave warrior princess who led a resistance against invaders in the 17th century. Pragpur is wonderful to explore, a veritable warren of tiny lanes and old, atmospheric buildings. Sadly, though, some of the luster has begun to disappear since the village first landed on the map; among other bad planning decisions, some idiotic council allowed a ghastly telecommunication tower to be constructed in one part of town (right at the edge of the Judge’s Court, in fact), which dramatically detracts from the “heritage” concept. Nevertheless, you still get a very good out of time feel here, and the surrounding landscape offers opportunities for nature walks, cycling, bird-watching, and fishing. Upper Pragpur is known for its home-weaving industry, so this is the place to look for good deals on local crafts. Best of all, you get to spend the night in Pragpur’s beautiful
Judge’s Court,
one of Himachal’s most enchanting hotels (reviewed below). Near Pragpur is the strangely named
Pong Lake,
officially known as Maharana Pratap Sagar—a reservoir that attracts local and migratory birds, mostly from Siberia (best time to visit: Oct/Nov–Mar/Apr). Some 1,300 hundred species of birds are found in the Indian subcontinent, of which more than 500 species are present in Kangra—if you’re interested it’s worth picking up a copy of the
Birds of Kangra
by Jan Willem den Besten, a very comprehensive book on the extensive birdlife of this region.

Digs for the Time Traveler

If you want to stay in the heart of a pretty, well-preserved medieval village, look into the availability of one of the two semidetached 17th-century houses in Pragpur’s highly atmospheric
Kuthiala Courtyard.
They’re operated as annexes to the lovely Judge’s Court hotel, and can be rented for short or long stays: Accommodations are fairly basic, giving you a truly hands-on insight into more or less how these villagers live. Marble floors are offset by mud-themed walls, an ancient gas-powered kitchen, and big bedrooms with tiny shuttered windows. And when you leave the house, you get to experience life along the narrow lanes and cobbled walkways, meeting and perhaps befriending neighbors—an experience you’ll never get from a hotel populated by other foreigners. While this is an authentic experience don’t expect any luxuries beyond the normal conveniences of a home trapped in another age; when you need a bit of pampering, though, you can trundle off to the restaurant at Judge’s Court and enjoy kid glove service before scurrying back to your village nest. See our review of Judge’s Court, below, for contact details.

Where to Stay

Taragarh Palace
(reviewed below), Palampur’s famous heritage hotel has now become something of a sprawling resort catering to groups; if you’d prefer to be in the midst of a tea plantation, rather than encountering busloads of tourists, consider holing up at the family run
Country Cottage
(Chandpur Tea Estate;
01894/23-0647;
www.countrycottageindia.com
; Rs 2,800–Rs 4,000 double), set in the cantonment area of Palampur amid a 20 hectare (50-acre) organic tea garden. It’s a simple, unpretentious, low-key operation with just a handful of cottages and the emphasis firmly on appreciating your surroundings rather than on exciting accommodations. At press time, two brand-new cottages were due to open, and these (more expensive) units with the best location will be the ones to book. The owner is a veritable font of information (on tea, among other things—with a couple of days he’ll even let you make your own), and puts together all kinds of interesting excursions, including an innovative anthropological tour that investigates various tribes in the Kangra Valley; he’ll also point you towards some wonderful local treks and organize mahaseer fishing expeditions. Besides staring out into the gardens and trying different teas, there’s not very much to do
at
the cottages—definitely bring books.

The Judge’s Court
This atmospheric Indo-European haveli, architecturally detailed with domes, galleries, terraces, and porticoes, is filled with the sort of tranquil charm that whisks guests straight back into a bygone age. Set on a magnificent property with orchards of mango, litchi, plum, persimmon, and citrus-fruit trees, the main manor house was built in 1918 by a descendant of Pragpur’s founders as a gift for his son, a well-known judge of the Punjab High Court. Laboriously restored, the hotel offers a variety of accommodations, including the swish new “Residency” wing at the back of the property. Best to go for one of the spookily romantic heritage suites, each with it’s own special charm—fireplaces, plush armchairs, original antiques, and chunky furniture throughout. Between exploring the village and tucking into extravagant multicourse meals, try to spend some time chatting with the owner, Vijay Lal—his spirited conversation is always a highlight of our time in the Kangra Valley.

Heritage Village Pragpur, Tehsil Dehra, District Kangra 177 107. Info
01970/24-5035
or -5335. Reservations: 3/44, Shanti Niketan, New Delhi 110 021.
011/2411-4135.
Fax 011/2411-5970.
www.judgescourt.com
. 17 units, plus 3 self-contained apts. in the village. Rs 4,500 deluxe double, Rs 5,200 Residency double, Rs 6,000 heritage suite; Rs 1,000 extra bed. Rates exclude 10% tax. Breakfast Rs 250, lunch Rs 350, dinner Rs 450. MC, V.
Amenities:
Restaurant; 3 lounges, bar service; cultural performances; small pool. In room: A/C and fans, TV (in most), fireplace (in most), fridge, heater, no phone.