India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (281 page)
Guided Tours
Official guides, who hang around outside attractions (and charge Rs 100) tend to have their commentary down pat, but their enthusiasm wanes as soon as they’ve been hired and a price has been settled upon; while they often can’t engage in dialogue, they will convince you that the tour is going to last a lot longer than it needs to be. Don’t take chances with these professional amateurs: Hire
Jaimini Shastri
(
93-1450-9684;
[email protected]; Rs 600 for the day), one of the most respected guides in Jaipur and well-versed in the city’s history, culture, and arts and crafts. He can give you the best guided tour of Jantar Mantar, speaking at length on astronomy, astrology, and the observatory. Book him well in advance, and—if you are planning to tour the whole state—consider booking him for the entire trip. Alternatively, organize a guide through your hotel, or contact
Rajasthan Travel
(0141/236-5408
) or
Sita World Travel
(0141/237-3996
or 0141/510-2020); you will inevitably pay a higher rate if you use a middleman, but the official rate is Rs 600 per day.
Tip:
Consider picking up a copy of Dharmendar Kanwar’s
Jaipur—10 Easy Walks
(Rupa; Rs 295) either from your hotel or from the excellent new
Crossword
bookstore (First Floor, K. K. Sq., C 11, Prithvi Raj Marg;0141/237-9400
), which will also deliver books to you.
City Layout
The major attractions and best bazaars lie within the walls of the Old City. Just south of the wall lies
Mirza Ismail (M.I.) Road
—running west to east, this major thoroughfare is where most of the primary retail outlets and a few good restaurants are located, and divides the city between the old (north) and new (south). The Old City is clearly distinguishable by its terra-cotta-colored walls and ramparts, and the new by its modern shops. Station Road, Sansar Chandra Marg, and Bhagwan Das Marg all intersect M.I. Road. Along these you will find all the services you need, from travel agents and money-changers to ATMs, restaurants, and Internet cafes. Farther south (but still within walking distance), diagonally opposite both Ajmeri Gate and New Gate of the Old City, lie Albert Hall and the Museum of Indology.
Festivals
As is the case everywhere in India, Jaipur seems to celebrate something new every month, but the following are worth noting: In February during the
Harvest Festival (Basant Panchami)
the city celebrates a Kite Festival, when hundreds of colorful kites sail the blue Jaipur sky, especially around the City Palace area; there’s also a competition and display. In March, when Holi celebrants throughout the country splash color on anything that moves, Jaipur celebrates an
Elephant Festival.
The massive pachyderms—dressed to the nines and decorated with paint—march through the city’s streets to the City Palace, accompanied by loud drumbeats and chanting. The event sees a tug-of-war between the elephants and their
mahouts
(elephant trainers/caretakers), as well as men playing polo—on elephant-back, of course. Make sure you book accommodations in advance during this period.
The following month (Apr) is
Gangaur,
when the women of Rajasthan pray to the goddess Parvati (also known as Gangaur) for the longevity of their husbands or for husbands fair and kind. This culminates in a procession to Gangaur Temple by the symbolic Siva, accompanied by elephants, to take his bride home.
Teej
(July–Aug) sees Rajasthan’s always colorfully clad women dressed in full regalia to celebrate the onset of the monsoon, while
Diwali (Festival of Lights),
the Hindu New Year, is celebrated throughout India in November.
Tip:
Although all festivals are meant to be fun celebrations, a few unruly young men may try to ruin it with their aggressive behavior, especially during Holi and Diwali. Ask your hotel where it is advisable to go, and make sure you have your own transport if you are going to watch the festivities; single women travelers are advised to go with a male companion, escort, or guide.
Sunset over Jaipur
See the pink city at its rosiest from Nahargarh Fort (or “Tiger Fort”) when the sun sinks behind the Aravalli Hills. Then—as night falls—watch the city skyline turn into the twinkling jewels for which it is famed. Purpose built to protect Amber, the view from here is always a winner, but during the festival of Diwali in November, when firecrackers explode above the city, it’s one you will never forget. The fort (Rs 40; 10:30am—6:30pm) itself is largely in ruins, but the great vantage point alone is worth the trip. An RTDC-run cafe serves drinks and snacks.
Jaipur
American Express
Located on M.I. Road (
or -0119) near Ganpati Plaza, the office is open daily 9am to 6pm.
Area Code
For Jaipur, the area code is
0141.
Banks
You’ll find several banks and ATMS on M.I. Road. The
Thomas Cook
office for foreign exchange is at Jaipur Tower (
Mon–Sat 9:30am–6pm). There’s a Citibank ATM next to the General Post Office, HDFC Bank ATM on Ashok Marg, ICICI Bank ATM in Ganpati Plaza, and others within the Old City.