India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (160 page)

GETTING AROUND
Auto-rickshaws are fine for short trips in Kozhikode and Kannur, but for longer journeys you will have to hire a car and driver, or hop on a train (see above).

KOZHIKODE & THE WYANAD RAINFOREST

Archaeological evidence suggests that civilizations inhabited the fertile forests of the Wyanad around 3 millennia ago. Today pockets of tribal populations still practice time-old rituals and eke out a simple existence in harmony with nature, but the wonderfully temperate climate and almost permanently sodden soil has also meant that the region supports a sprawling network of coffee, cardamom, betel nut, pepper, and rubber plantations, stretching over the undulating hills in every direction. And between the cultivated hills, there’s a dense rainforest, studded with splendid rocky outcrops and easily accessible Neolithic caves.

Malabar trade, which is still largely focused on spices and textiles, once centered on the teeming coastal town of
Kozhikode,
the unofficial capital of the North. Until recently known as Calicut—incidentally where the term
calico
(or white, unbleached cotton) originated—this is where Vasco da Gama was first welcomed in 1498; at the nearby village of Kappad, a commemorative plaque memorializes the spot where the Portuguese explorer is said to have landed. Still famed for its old spice market, Kozhikode can be an interesting, if offbeat, place to explore between Ayurvedic treatments (available at the Harivihar Heritage Home, reviewed below) and shopping for textiles or gold and silver. To most, however, the city is more of a go-between point for journeys farther south or north, or inland to Kerala’s highest rainfall region, the
Wyanad Hills
. One of India’s last true wildernesses, the hills are home to some truly soothing get-away-from-it-all accommodations, including
Tranquil,
where you can bed down in a luxurious treehouse surrounded by a 160-hectare (400-acre) working coffee plantation (see below).

Not Quite Kung-Fu Fighting

While in Kozhikode you can watch students perform Kerala’s spectacularly acrobatic, high-flying martial art form, Kalaripayattu (see the sidebar “Kathakali & Kalaripayattu: Kerala’s Ancient Art Forms,” earlier in this chapter) at
C.V.N. Kalari Nadakkavu
(E. Nadakkavu, Nadakkavu P.O., Kozhikode 673 011;
0495/276-9114
or -8214;
www.cvnkalarikerala.com
; [email protected]). The school holds open classes 6 to 8:30am and 4 to 6:30pm—with prior notice, foreigners with some martial arts training are allowed to join these. Ayurvedic treatments are given during the day.

Where to Stay

Please don’t think of the Wyanad Hills as a day trip. If you head out that way, be sure to book a place to stay; chances are you won’t want to leave.

In Kozhikode

Kozhikode may not be packed with options, but it does have one of the finest little guesthouses in the state—the handsome
Harivihar
is reviewed below. As far as hotels go, your best bet is
The Gateway Hotel Beach Road Calicut
(
0495/661-3000;
www.tajhotels.com
; doubles from Rs 4,500), the only five-star hotel in town, aimed at the luxury business-oriented traveler. In terms of facilities (with two restaurants and a decent pool), it’s the best place in town, with smart, clean, neat and forgettable guest rooms. There’s also a good Ayurvedic rejuvenation program that’s been greatly enhanced over the years; you can be assured of professional service, and all treatments are made in consultation with the resident doctor. It’s also just minutes from the spice market. This is a good hotel for an overnight stop, but in no way a place you should choose to tarry; for that you’d be better off at Harivihar. But, if you’re sold on the anonymity of hotels, and looking for a cheaper alternative to The Gateway, take a look at the
Fortune Hotel Calicut
(
0495/276-8888;
www.fortunehotels.in
). It’s not great, but it’s functional, and bedrooms are a perfectly acceptable mix of modern convenience and floral decor; standard doubles go for just Rs 2,900, including breakfast and taxes.

Harivihar Heritage Home
In the heart of Kozhikode, but a million miles from the hustle and bustle of the city, this is the gracious family home of Neethi Srikumar and her husband, both doctors and humble hosts who’ve crafted a beautiful guesthouse from their 170-year-old royal homestead. Visitors from across the globe come to learn about (and experience) the healing art of Ayurveda (it’s Kerala’s only Green Leaf–certified homestead) or immerse themselves in Indian culture and philosophy—there’s an important Kalari center nearby, and you can even ask for a session with an astrologer. Or head out on a tour of the best gold, silver and textile shops, before visiting the centuries-old spice market. Accommodations—like the entire house—are elegantly minimalist; antiques set off the original features of the house with a faint nod to contemporary flair. You’ll leave this haven rejuvenated, restored, and ready to tackle anything. Be prepared, though: no alcohol, and no meat is served here.

Bilathikulam, Calicut 673 006.
0495/276-5865.
www.harivihar.com
. [email protected]. 7 units, all with shower only. 104€ double. Rates include all meals and taxes. No credit cards.
Amenities:
Dining room; airport transfers (Rs 500–Rs 800; free for stays of 6 nights or more); astrology sessions; Ayurvedic center; bathing pond (pool with untreated water); cultural performances (on request); Internet (for e-mail checks only); small library; shopping trips; yoga. In room: A/C (in 2 rooms).