India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (157 page)
Thekkady-Kumily Rd., Thekkady 685 536.
04869/22-2314
through -2316. Reservations: c/o CGH Earth, Casino Bldg., Willingdon Island, Cochin 682 003.0484/301-1711.
Fax 0484/266-8001.
www.cghearth.com
. 52 units, some with tubs. Nov–Apr 294€–329€ standard villa double, 414€–444€ deluxe villa double, 82€ extra person; May–Oct Rs 9,210 standard villa double, Rs 13,225 deluxe villa double, Rs 2,860 extra person. Rates include all meals and taxes. Breakfast-only rates available. AE, DC, MC, V.
Amenities:
2 restaurant, bar w/billiards table; Ayurvedic center; badminton court; basketball court; cooking demonstrations; cultural performances; nature center and 3 naturalists; pool; room service; tennis court, Wi-Fi (in restaurant and nature center; free); yoga and meditation. In room: A/C and fan, fridge, hair dryer.
Wildernest
An unwieldy-looking stone and brick construction, designed around a jackfruit tree, this budget boutique hotel stands on a small plot beside the main road leading to the reserve entrance. Accommodations are huge, high-ceiling, spotless rooms with homey, unfussy furnishing, wildlife watercolor prints, and tidy finishes—what more could you want? Well, folks at Wildernest throw in a brilliant breakfast and offer well-meaning assistance throughout your stay, including all arrangements for the reserve. Choose a Terraced Room if you want an upstairs patio (from where you spot fruit bats nesting in the bamboo trees across the road), or a Secret Garden room if you prefer a secluded private garden. This place offers incredible value, and is well managed; the only letdown is the relatively simple (though not uncomfortable) beds.
Thekkady Rd., Thekkady 685 536.04869/22-4030
or 04869/21-1471.
www.wildernest-kerala.com
. 10 units, all with shower only. Rs 2,750–Rs 3,250 double; 20% less Apr–Sept; Rs 750 extra bed; children aged 5–12 pay Rs 500 if sharing. Rates include breakfast; 15% tax extra. MC, V.
Amenities:
Cafe; small library. In room: Fans, TV.
Alternatives to Spotting Elephants in Periyar
You can pick up a range of spices from a massive number of shops lining the streets of Kumily, the nearest town to Periyar, but the best option is to head straight for
Kerala Spices Centre
(Thekkady Rd.;0486/92-2201
), where the gregarious owner offers an informal tourist bureau. He also sells nuts and delicious cardamom tea, and has created a spick-and-span room for a homestay experience (around Rs 6,000 a night), with an emphasis on cooking—not only are you invited into the kitchen to watch his talented wife prepare her delicious meals, but you will accompany her to the local markets. A stone’s throw from here is the
Mudra Kathakali Centre
(Thekkady Rd.;94-4715-7636;
http://mudrakathakali.com
; Rs 125). The 1-hour shows feature graduates of the Kalamandalam school. Show times (usually at 4:30pm and 7pm, but get there 30 min. early to watch the performers put on their elaborate makeup) change with the seasons, so call ahead. And, if only to experience one of the most unlikely attractions in Kerala, you could always visit the
wax museum
next door. The most appealing place to shop hereabouts—at least in terms of visuals—is
Red Frog
(Lake Rd.;04869/22-4560
or 94-4703-2276;
www.galleryredfrog.com
), which sells organic spices and clothing made from natural fibers in a gleaming white space; there are pretty objects resembling antiques, too, and a few decent books.
MUNNAR: HOME OF TEA & TAHRS
Munnar town itself is rather unpleasant and increasingly clogged by impulsive development; thankfully, the region’s real attractions lie on its outskirts where it is still possible to find solitude in hidden away spots that have so far withstood the onslaught of tourist exploitation—especially if you pick a small, quiet place to lodge.
With tea-covered slopes spread out as far as the eye can see, watching the mists creep over the valleys and come to rest like a blanket on the jade-colored hills is almost as refreshing as luxuriating in the cool climate—a welcome relief before you descend to the tropical Kerala coast or to sultry Madurai in neighboring Tamil Nadu. There are moments when the region draws comparisons with the Scottish Highlands, dotted with enormous boulder outcrops and souring rocky peaks.
Almost all the plantations are owned by the powerful Tata company, the same mighty conglomerate that produces India’s buses, Sumo four-by-fours, the world’s most affordable car (launched 2009), and the Taj hotel chain.
Tea factory visits
can be arranged either through your hotel or by contacting Tata’s regional office (04865/23-0561
through -0565), through which you can also visit the
Tea Museum
and the tea factory’s processing unit (Tues–Sun 10am–4pm). To get up close to some of the world’s last Nilgiri tahr (a variety of mountain goat or ibex), arrange a visit to nearby
Eravikulam National Park.
Existing only in the mountain grasslands of the Western Ghats at altitudes above 2,000m (6,560 ft.), the tahr is as endangered as the tiger, with fewer than 2,000 left. The park has been a great success, with dedicated tea planters, once the primary hunters of the tahr, now doubling as voluntary wildlife wardens. The 2007 census shows a healthy population of 800, almost double what it was 30 years ago. Note that you can participate in the annual census, which will ensure up-close encounters with both the tahr and the planters and rangers who protect it. It is held for a week in April; for more information call the park office (see contact information below). Of course, sighting what is basically a goat, no matter how rare, may not be as exhilarating as spotting a tiger, but your chances are far higher—in fact the tahrs have grown so used to visitors that you can get within a few yards of them. Enter the park at the Rajamala entrance, 15km (9 1⁄3 miles) from Munnar, where you can buy tickets at the park office (04865/23-1587;
entry Rs 50, light vehicles Rs 10; daily 8am–5pm). Avoid the usual noisy crowds by arriving early.