Hungry City: How Food Shapes Our Lives (53 page)

34
Punch
, 14 August 1880, quoted in Robert Webber,
Covent Garden: Mud-Salad Market
, J.M. Dent and Sons Ltd, 1969, pp.122–3.

35
The ‘sermon’ is attended every year by Punch and Judy men and women from all over the country.

36
Burke, op.cit., p.203.

37
Denis Diderot,
Oeuvres Complètes
, Paris, 1769, ed. Paris, 1969, 8:184, quoted
in Stephen Kaplan,
Provisioning Paris: Merchants and Millers in the Grain and Flour Trade During the Eighteenth Century
, Cornell University Press, Ithaca and London, 1984, p.185.

38
Dodd, op.cit., p.255.

39
Quoted in Forshaw and Bergström,
Smithfield Past and Present
, Heinemann, London, 1980, p.59.

40
Michel Foucault, ‘Of Other Spaces’ (1967), published in French journal
Architecture/Mouvement/Continuité
, October 1984, trans. Jay Miskowiec,
www.foucault.info
.

41
See Dorothy Davis,
A History of Shopping
, Routledge and Kegan Paul, London, 1966, pp.189–90.

42
G.K. Chesterton,
Wine, Water and Song
, London, 1915, quoted in James P. Johnston,
A Hundred Years Eating: Food, Drink and the Daily Diet in Britain since the Late Nineteenth Century
, Gill and Macmillan, McGill-Queen’s University Press, 1977, p.70.

43
Ibid., p.76.

44
Ibid., p.78.

45
See
http://www.pigglywiggly.com
.

46
Quoted in Malcolm Gladwell, ‘The Terrazzo Jungle’, the
New Yorker
, 15 March 2004.

47
Victor Gruen,
Centres for the Urban Environment: Survival of the Cities
, New York, Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1973, p.158.

48
Victor Gruen,
The Heart of Our Cities
, Thames and Hudson, London, 1965, pp.248–50.

49
Gruen (1973), op.cit., p.74.

50
Ibid., p.37.

51
Johnston, op.cit., pp.61–2.

52
DETR, op.cit., introduction, paras 4 and 6.

53
See C.J. Chung, J. Inaba, R. Koolhaas, S. Leong (eds.),
Harvard Design School Guide to Shopping
, Taschen, 2001, p.642.

54
See ibid., pp.642–6.

55
See Blythman, op.cit., pp.29–30.

56
See the Tescopoly website,
http://www.tescopoly.org/
.

57
Friends of the Earth,
Calling the Shots: How Supermarkets Get Their Way in Planning Decisions
, January 2006, p.8.

58
Ibid., pp.21–2.

59
Blythman, op.cit., p.27.

60
Katherine Edwards, quoted in
Calling the Shots
, op.cit., p.23.

61
Building Design Partnership website,
www.bdp.net
.

62
Planning White Paper, 2007, Paragraph 7.54. See also the Friends of the Earth website,
www.foe.co.uk
.

63
Joseph F. Sullivan, ‘Court Protects speech in Malls’,
New York Times
, 21 December 1994, quoted by Sze Tsung Leong, ‘… And then there was Shopping’, in Chung, et al., op.cit., p.152.

64
Ibid.

65
Public Eye: Art is a Battlefield,
http://www.metroactive.com/papers/
metro/02.27.03/public-eye-0309.html
.

66
Marc Augé,
Non-Places, Introduction to an Anthropology of Supermodernity
, trans. John Howe, Verso, New York, 1995, p.34.

67
Jacobs, op.cit., p.65.

68
Measuring Access to Healthy Food in Sandwell
, The University of Warwick and Sandwell Health Action Zone, 2001, p.8.

69
London Development Agency,
Healthy and Sustainable Food for London, The Mayor’s Food Strategy
, May 2006, p.49.

70
Nicholas Saphir,
Review of London Wholesale Markets
, Defra and the Corporation of London, 2002, p.55.

71
The Mayor’s Food Strategy
, op.cit., foreword by Jenny Jones.

72
An initial project to create a local food hub at New Covent Garden began in 2007.

73
Ibid., p.101.

74
Lady Caroline Cranbrook, interviewed by Patrick Barkham, ‘The town that said no to Tesco’, the
Guardian
, 28 June 2006.

75
Queen’s Market Development Agreement and Lease Summary
, Newham Council, 16 March 2006, p.3.

76
Marie Jackson, ‘Can Paris Teach London a Lesson?’, BBC News, 11 February 2005,
news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/london/4244609.stm
.

77
Ibid.

78
From an interview with
Woman’s Own
, 31 October 1987.

Chapter 4 The Kitchen

 

1
James Boswell,
Journal of a Tour of the Hebrides
, quoted in Michael Symons,
A History of Cooks and Cooking
, University of Illinois Press, 2004, p.34.

2
My visit to the Savoy took place several years ago, before the major refurbishment of 2008.

3
Grimod de la Reynière,
Almanach des Gourmands
, vol.4, p.47, quoted in Rebecca L. Spang,
The Invention of the Restaurant
, Harvard, 2000, p.163.

4
Emil Petrie, ‘Feeding frenzy: convenient cuisine’,
The Money Programme
, BBC2, 6 October 2006,
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/business/5407472.stm
.

5
See Carlo Petrini,
Slow Food Nation
, Rizzoli, 2007, pp.164–76.

6
From an interview with a product developer and food consultant to M&S in 2006.

7
Hydrogenated fats, otherwise known as trans fats, are chemically modified fats used widely in the food industry since the early 1900s. They are cheaper and have a longer shelf life than saturated fats, but have been linked to raised cholesterol and heart disease. In 2006, M&S and Waitrose removed hydrogenated fats from all their foods, and Sainsbury’s announced its intention to phase them out. In December, Mayor Giuliani announced he was banning them from New York City – easier said than done.

8
I have never understood why so many chefs give recipes for roast potatoes that involve all sorts of ‘tricks’ to make them fluffy and crunchy without specifying the most important thing of all: the sort of potato you should use. King Edwards are perfect.

9
See
http://news.bbc.co.uk/onthisday/hi/
dates/stories/april/1/
newsid_2819000/2819261.stm
.

10
Jamie’s School Dinners
, Channel 4, 2005.

11
See Stephen Mennell,
All Manners of Food
, First Illinois Paperback, 1996, pp.309–10.

12
Leonard Woolley,
Excavations at Ur: a record of twelve years’ work
, London, Ernest Benn, 1954, p.104.

13
Symons, op.cit., p.311.

14
William Fitzstephen,
Description of London
(
c
.1175), quoted in George Dodd,
The Food of London
, Longman Brown, Green and Longmans, London, 1856, p.26. See also Xavier Baron,
London 1066–1914: Literary Sources and Documents
(3 vols.), Helm Information, East Sussex, 1997, p.56.

15
Ned Ward,
The London Spy
, quoted in Edwina Ehrman, Hazel Forsyth, Lucy Peltz, Cathy Ross,
London Eats Out: 500 Years of Capital Dining
, Museum of London, 1999, p.40.

16
George Orwell,
Down and Out in Paris and London
, Penguin, 1986, p.67.

17
There are exceptions – for instance there is a strong tradition of professional female cooks from the seventeenth century onwards in England – but their work has generally been confined to household management and the keeping of inns – not haute cuisine. See Mennell, op.cit., pp.95–8.

18
The use of valuable ingredients such as sugar would, however, have been supervised by the mistress of the house.

19
See James P. Johnston,
A Hundred Years Eating: Food, Drink and the Daily Diet in Britain Since the Late Nineteenth Century
, Gill and Macmillan, McGill-Queen’s University Press, 1977, p.13.

20
Bisto gravy powder (which stands for Browns, Seasons and Thickens all in One) was first manufactured in 1908. The TV adverts have run since the 1960s.

21
The social anthropologist Claude Lévi-Strauss attempted to analyse the social status of food by constructing a ‘culinary triangle’ consisting of the raw, the cooked and the rotten, and analysing the connections between them. See Claude Lévi-Strauss, ‘The Culinary Triangle’, 1966,
Partisan Review
pp.586–95.

22
Such domestic segregation still exists in Arabic cultures. See Richard Sennett,
Flesh and Stone
, Faber and Faber, 1996, p.74.

23
See Chapter 3.

24
For a detailed discussion of the Athenian
symposion
, see Oswyn Murray (ed.),
Sympotica: a Symposium on the Symposion
, Clarendon Press, Oxford, 1990.

25
Athenaeus,
The Deipnosophists
, 137f; 2:129, quoted in Symons, op.cit., p.35.

26
For a detailed social analysis of the Roman house, see Andrew Wallace-Hadrill, ‘The Social Structure of the Roman House’,
Papers of the British School at Rome
, 56 NS 43 (1988), pp.43–97.

27
See Mennell, op.cit., pp.102–3.

28
Maestro Martino,
The Art of Cooking: The First Modern Cookery Book
, Luigi Ballerini (ed.), trans. Jeremy Parzen, California Studies in Food and Culture 14, 2005, pp.77, 114.

29
Quoted in Mennell, op.cit., p.96.

30
Relevés
were large dishes of stewed meat or fish; hors d’oeuvres accompaniments placed around them; entrées smaller savoury dishes; and
entremets
lighter sweet or savoury dishes served between courses.

31
Isabella Beeton,
The Book of Household Management
, London, Cassell & Co., 1861, reprint 2000, p.905.

32
J.E. Panton,
From Kitchen to Garrett
, quoted in Roy Strong,
Feast: A History of Grand Eating
, Jonathan Cape, London, 2002, p.293.

33
Manners and Tone of Good Society, and Solecisms to be Avoided, by a Member of the Aristocracy
, Frederick Warne and Co., 1885, quoted in Strong, op.cit., p.294.

34
Quoted in Mennell, op.cit., p.309.

35
See Keith Thomas,
Man and the Natural World: Changing Attitudes in England 1500–1800
, Allen Lane, 1983, p.297.

36
See Tristram Stuart,
The Bloodless Revolution: Radical Vegetarians and The Discovery of India
, Harper Press, 2006, p.423.

37
Quoted in Thomas, op.cit., p.300.

38
John Ruskin,
Sesame and Lilies
, 1865, quoted in John Burnett,
A Social History of Housing, 1815–1970
, Methuen, London, 1986, p.197.

39
Robert Kerr, quoted in J.J. Stevenson,
House Architecture
, Macmillan, London, 1880, vol. 2, p.78.

40
Ibid., pp.82–3.

41
Robert Kerr,
The Gentleman’s House
, John Murray, London (1864), 2nd edn, 1865, p.210.

42
See Burnett, op.cit., pp.70–7.

43
One alternative was ‘catering flats’ – blocks of flats that supplied catering services like those of a hotel. Residents could either choose to eat in a communal dining room, or take meals in their flats.

44
Catherine Beecher,
A Treatise on Domestic Economy
, Harper, 1842, p.62.

45
Ibid., p.143.

46
The Panopticon, with its underlying messages of observation, order and obedience, is discussed by Michel Foucault in
Discipline and Punish: The Birth of the Prison
, Peregrine Books, 1985.

47
Pasteur went on to invent one of the best-known processes in microbiology: pasteurisation, a process in universal use today.

48
Quoted in Annegret S. Ogden,
The Great American Housewife: From Helpmate to Wage-earner 1776–1986
, Greenwood Press, Westport, Connecticut and London, 1986, p.141.

49
Quoted in Barbara Ehrenreich and Deirdre English,
For Her Own Good: 150 Years of the Expert’s Advice to Women
, Pluto Press, London, 1979, p.143.

50
Christine Frederick,
Efficient Housekeeping, or Household Engineering: Scientific Management in the Home
, George Routledge, 1915, p.22.

51
Ibid., p.46.

52
Ibid., p.93.

53
Nick Bullock, ‘First the Kitchen: Then the Façade’,
Journal of Design History
, Vol.1, No.3/4 (1988), pp.177–92.