Everyday Pasta (21 page)

Whole-wheat pasta is another great option if you’re looking for a new and different taste in your pasta dishes. This variety of pasta is made from whole-grain flour, meaning the bran and germ of the grain have not been extracted as in refined flours like semolina. The whole grain is nutrient-rich, so it goes without saying that there’s a health benefit, but whole-wheat pasta—as well as a constellation of pastas made from alternate grains such as spelt or buckwheat—also makes for a heartier, earthier dish with a very appealing nutty flavor. Give them a try next time you want to add a new twist to a favorite old pasta recipe.

6 to 8 servings

Sugo
is the Italian word for any kind of sauce. This particular sugo isn’t cooked long enough for the tomato chunks to break down completely. Cut the tomatoes into any size pieces you prefer, just as you would for a salsa. If you like it chunky, keep the pieces on the larger side so they won’t break up too much when you stir the sauce. Because it is such a basic, straight- forward sauce, it will be a good match to all kinds of flavored pastas, like whole wheat or spinach.

1 pound spinach fettuccine

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 (28-ounce) can whole San Marzano tomatoes, drained and cut into pieces with kitchen scissors

2 garlic cloves, whole

¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

⅓ cup finely chopped fresh basil leaves

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta and cook until tender but still firm to the bite, stirring occasionally, 8 to 10 minutes. Drain, reserving 1 cup of the pasta water.

In a medium saucepan, warm the olive oil over medium heat. Add the tomatoes, garlic, parsley, salt, and pepper. Cook for 10 minutes. Discard the whole garlic. Add the cooked pasta and toss to coat. Add the reserved pasta water, about ¼ cup at a time, if the pasta needs moistening. Arrange on a serving platter and top with the basil.

4 to 6 servings

Flavored oils are a pantry staple for me. They add instant flavor, whether I’m making a dressing, a marinade, or a topping for pasta. Chili oil is my favorite because it adds a kick that wakes up your taste buds.

1 pound angel hair pasta

½ cup
Chili Oil

½ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

2 tablespoons grated lemon zest

¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice

½ teaspoon salt, plus more to taste

Crushed red pepper flakes

⅔ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until tender but still firm to the bite, stirring occasionally, about 8 minutes. Drain, reserving 1 cup of the pasta cooking liquid.

Stir together the chili oil, parsley, lemon zest and juice, and salt in a large bowl. Add the angel hair pasta and toss with enough reserved cooking liquid to moisten; you probably won’t need more than ¼ cup or so. Season the pasta with more salt and with red pepper flakes to taste. Transfer to individual bowls, sprinkle with the Parmesan cheese, and serve.

4 to 6 servings

Rotelli and fusilli are different names for the same, corkscrew-shaped pasta twists. This sauce is essentially a walnut compound butter, and it’s a very easy option for those nights when you’re not in the mood to do a lot of cooking.

1 pound rotelli or fusilli (corkscrew pasta)

1½ cups toasted walnuts (see Note)

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

¾ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil

½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

½ cup heavy cream

½ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta and cook until tender but still firm to the bite, stirring occasionally, 8 to 10 minutes. Drain the pasta, reserving 1 cup of the cooking liquid.

Meanwhile, in a food processor combine the walnuts, butter, salt, and pepper. Pulse to combine. With the machine running, drizzle in the olive oil in a steady stream. Transfer the mixture to a small bowl and stir in the Parmesan, then the cream.

When the pasta is done, place it in a large bowl while still very warm. Stir in the walnut sauce. Add the reserved pasta liquid, ¼ cup at a time, until the sauce completely coats the pasta, using only as much as needed. Sprinkle with the parsley, toss, and serve.

Note

To toast nuts, spread them on a baking sheet and place in a 350°F oven for 5 to 10 minutes, or until fragrant and golden brown; stir them once or twice as they toast and watch to see that they don’t get too dark. (You can also toast them in a dry skillet over medium-high heat, tossing as they toast.) Transfer to a bowl to cool.

4 to 6 servings

There are not many meals that are easier than this one, which transforms prepared tortellini and marinara sauce into a rich, savory, comfort-food meal. Just add a salad and you’re done.

Olive oil

2 cups marinara sauce (store-bought or
homemade
)

⅓ cup mascarpone cheese

¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme

1 pound purchased cheese tortellini

2 ounces thinly sliced smoked mozzarella

¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly oil an 8 × 8 × 2-inch baking dish or 4 individual gratin dishes.

Whisk the marinara sauce, mascarpone cheese, parsley, and thyme in a large bowl to blend. Cook the tortellini in a large pot of boiling salted water until just tender, about 2 minutes. Drain. Add the tortellini to the sauce and toss to coat.

Transfer the tortellini mixture to the prepared baking dish or dishes. Top with the smoked mozzarella cheese and Parmesan cheese. Cover the dish or dishes with foil and bake for 20 minutes, then remove the foil and bake uncovered until the sauce bubbles and the cheeses on top melt, about 10 minutes longer.

6 servings

Fettuccine carbonara is a typical weeknight meal for many Italians, and I love it, too. I couldn’t resist adding an extra layer of flavor to this classic dish to improve on something that is already great. I know the sweet-salty combination of bacon with cinnamon sounds odd, but the flavors are extraordinary together. Try it; you’ll see.

6 ounces pancetta (about 6 slices), chopped

2 ounces bacon (2 or 3 slices), chopped

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

2 cups heavy cream

1½ cups freshly grated Parmesan cheese

6 large egg yolks

18 ounces fresh fettuccine

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives

Cook the pancetta and bacon in a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat until almost crisp, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle with the cinnamon and sauté until the meat is crisp and golden, about 2 minutes longer. Turn the heat to low. In a small bowl, whisk together the cream, cheese, and egg yolks. Add the cream mixture to the pan with the pancetta and cook at a very low simmer, stirring often with a wooden spoon.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the fettuccine and cook until it is just tender but still firm to the bite, stirring occasionally, 2 to 3 minutes.

Drain the pasta and add it to the cream mixture with the salt and pepper. Continue cooking over very low heat until the sauce coats the pasta thickly, about 3 minutes (do not boil). Transfer the pasta to a large, wide serving bowl. Sprinkle with the chives and serve.