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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS AUSTRALIA First and foremost, Mum and Dad, whose moral support in uncertain times was matched only by their financial support. You got me from there to here. My first guide to the publishing world, Teresa Pitt, who acted on an impulse: I hope this volume feels like your justification. All the crew at Transit Lounge: Barry and Rhonda Scott, Tess Rice and Tim McQuiston. You took a wounded bird and made it fly. Other publishing professionals who demonstrated and maintained faith in my work: above all, Siobhán Cantrill, Anouska Jones (you're revisionists, in the nicest sense); and Suzanne Falkiner, several of whose textual amendments I have incorporated with gratitude. Brad and Ryan Warburton, who told me a decade ago that I should write a book. Well, I've kept my part of the bargain ⦠Neil: ready when you are. Bruce and Els: for being there when I needed you. The late Dr Gerald Ungar, Dr Terry Lim, Mr Doug Brown and surgical team (you know who you are): for bringing me back from the brink. The nurses and specialist staff on Ward 13 and in rehab at the Austin: for seeing me through, and for all your help, physical and philosophical. Terry Lane and Jon Faine, and Sarah Ashley, Jon's producer, the first to think my story might interest the wider world. Garry Linnell: for reminding me why we write. Michael Gawenda and Rod Wiedermann: for sending me to a tranquil corner. Gideon Haigh, severely tested friend: your Bastille Day email liberated the book within. Mal Schmidtke: for refusing to sell me short, even in a bearish market. Gary Walsh: it was through your generosity, with just a tincture of forbearance, that âEmails from the Edge' first saw the light in the travel pages of The Age . Creighton Burns: for your calm and steady wisdom, combined with the soundest of advice. Lucas, Linda and Joash Yong: thanks for doing your best to see the mail got through. Jon and Jenny Cook: for looking after my home as if it were your own. T. and D.: you know why. Danny, Michael and all the crew at Mobility Plus: you were right about durability. Lisa and Graham, Elsternwick Camera Centre. ENGLAND The late Gavin Young, and his âsea anchor', Gritta Weil, for showing faith in works yet unattempted â in particular to Gavin for giving my voyage his benediction, in the first month of the millennium and the last of his life. Stephanie Bunbury, for saving my life and for calling the professionals in. This book owes everything to you. NAMIBIA Craig Newby and Kris Pate: for making the computer do its job so that I could do mine. Gwen Lister, founder and editor of The Namibian: for giving me time to write the book. And everyone else at the world's pluckiest newspaper who gave me the privilege of your company. Viviane and Günther Scholz, in Swakopmund: for the gift of a family Christmas and, Viviane, for taking on the task of taming the Beast. Graham Hopwood: for exercising the power o' the giftie, and keeping me more or less focused (as the need arose). Werner Menges: for providing inspiration, and being one. Christelle and Jaco Reed at Puccini: for giving me space to write the book. SOUTH AFRICA To The Star newspaper, especially Saturday Star executive editor Brendan Seery, chief sub-editor Francois Pienaar and my former travel-section colleague, Jenny de Klerk, for not being driven to distraction by it all. (Ah, but you were!) Denis Beckett, for moral support and sound practical advice. Jonathan Ancer: For selecting the title of Chapter 4. Glenda and Shane Seagall at Chroma copying services, Norwood, Johannesburg. UNITED STATES Robert Frank and Carole Cheung: I was tired and true of heart. And also, you were tired and true of heart. KAZAKHSTAN Klara Duisengalieva, president, Hotel Zhetisu, Almaty: for outstanding hospitality and delegating staff to see me safely onto the northbound train. UZBEKISTAN Raisa Gareyeva, Azat and all my other friends at your travel agency, for unstinting hospitality, dependable companionship, generous use of your computers and guiding me through the postal and railway bureaucracies. May Allah preserve Bukhara! TURKMENISTAN Galina Yevgeniya, Mary: the world's leading authority on its least remembered massacre. AZERBAIJAN Fuad Axundhov, the most knowledgeable tourist guide in Old, or New, Baku. GEORGIA Zviad Mirgatia and Mark Mullen, National Democratic Institute for International Affairs: thanks for walking me through Georgia's politics on the morning of September 11, 2001. You were saying? IRAN Tom and Rebecca Hathaway, Tehran: in humble gratitude for your hospitality and long-suffering patience. Sorry if I got in the way. Komeil Noofeli, travel guide, courier and drifter: for unbottling Shiraz and uncorking Persepolis. OMAN Rosemary Hector: for your hospitality and efficiency, taking me wadi-bashing and out to the bullfight, then letting me rest up at your home. LEBANON Ayssar abou Taif, super-receptionist at the Hotel Regis, Ain al-Mreisse, downtown Beirut: for doing as much as anyone to implant the idea of humanitourism in my brain. GREECE The generous soul who runs Santorini's best hotel, the Palladion. Lou Economopoulos and Litsa Rovolis: for reminding me why we have a Greek word for the mood of fond recall. It was even better than the old times. BULGARIA Tsvetelina Ivanova (Vier Pfoten publicity director) and Ibrahim Garaliiski (at the park): for bearing with me. YUGOSLAVIA (AS YOU WERE) Ivana and Jelena, in beautiful Kotor, who wished me to âremember us and our town and country with pleasure': wish granted. CROATIA Maya PetrÃc, managing director of Magnum Trade d.o.o.: your entrepreneurial spirit, and goodwill, gave me a wonderful first impression of Split â and it has lasted. BOSNIA-HERZEGOVINA Amelie SarÃc and Professor Meliha Kulukchiha-Melly, Pavarotti Music Centre, Mostar: for building another mighty bridge. All donations to the work of the centre ([email protected]) are gratefully appreciated. ROMANIA Roberto Paulet, the master enamel-cup decorator and receptionist, Villa Helga Youth Hostel, Bucharest. MOLDOVA Sergei Mifodovski ([email protected]) and Vikki: for opening windows onto Moldovan realities. (Vikki, I hope you found your man, and happiness, wherever you're living now.) UKRAINE Janna Belousova and all the team at Eugenia: you lit up Odessa on the darkest days of the year. GERMANY Lotti Villinger, old friend and super-reliable in time of need: without you I might have given up and gone home early. BELARUS Oleg Loiko and family: the silver watch is treasured still. I hope you're all happy in Canada. FINLAND Father Deacon Vladimir (William Paul) Lysak, artist, baker, cook, iconographer, writer and Stavrophor monk at New Valamo Monastery: wouldn't have missed that aurora borealis for the (sublunary) world. Santa Claus: go back to Turkey, the jig is up.