Culinary Vietnam (24 page)

Tofu and Spinach Stir-Fry

Rau Muong Xao Dau Phu

8 ounces firm tofu, drained and cut into 1/2-inch cubes

3 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided

1 (1/8-inch-thick) ginger slice, gently smashed with the side of a knife

3 to 4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

Sliced Thai, serrano, or jalapeño chiles

1 teaspoon chopped shallot (optional)

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 teaspoon oyster sauce or fish sauce (optional)

1-1/2 pounds fresh spinach leaves (about 2 bunches), washed and stem ends trimmed

1/2 teaspoon sugar

Serves 2 to 3 as a main dish or 4 to 6 as part of a larger meal

Water spinach (rau muong), a green that is often mislabeled in English as morning glory, is easy to come by in Vietnam. You will find it served on many a table. In the U.S., I usually substitute regular spinach or any of the other available greens with excellent results. Adding tofu to this common side dish adds another component of texture and color, and also makes it a dish that could serve as a vegetarian main course.

1
Sear the tofu slices in a wok or heavy skillet in 2 tablespoons oil until they show a little color around the edges. Remove from the pan, drain on paper towels, and reserve. Heat the remaining oil until very hot. Add the ginger, garlic, chiles, and shallot; stir-fry until fragrant.

2
Add the soy sauce, oyster sauce, and spinach. Stir-fry for 1 to 2 minutes; add the sugar and reserved tofu. Cook a few seconds more, tossing well, until the tofu is heated through. Serve immediately.

Pumpkin in Coconut Milk

Bi Do Ham Dua

1-1/2 cups unsweetened coconut milk, or 1 (13-ounce) can

3/4 cup water

1-1/2 teaspoons sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon dry turmeric

2 teaspoons fish or soy sauce

1 (1-inch) piece ginger, peeled and cut into 3 slices

1/2 medium white onion, peeled and thinly sliced

1 (1-1/2 to 2-pound) pumpkin, skin and seeds removed, then cut into 1-inch chunks

2 tablespoons chopped cilantro or Vietnamese coriander

Serves 4 to 6 as part of a larger meal

A simple but striking dish from the south, where coconuts abound, the colors are vibrant and the flavor is rich and exotic. Traditionally prepared with the greenish-skinned cooking pumpkins seen at the markets around the area, and sometimes with sweet potatoes added as well, they can be substituted with acorn or butternut squash. This dish is usually served as a side dish at a meal containing a variety of selections. Be careful not to overcook the pumpkin—you want it tender, but it will disintegrate if cooked too long past that stage.

1
In a saucepan, mix the coconut milk and water; add the sugar, salt, turmeric, and fish sauce; stir well to combine. Add the ginger, onion, and pumpkin, and bring to a low boil; stir gently and reduce the heat to simmer.

2
Cook for about 20 to 25 minutes, stirring occasionally. Check to see if the pumpkin is tender and cook a few more minutes or as needed (add a bit more water if the sauce gets too dry). Remove from the heat, remove the ginger, and let sit a few minutes to thicken the sauce. Garnish with cilantro and serve.

The food in the north tends to be a bit more austere than its southern counterpart, utilizing a simpler array of seasonings and a more conservative approach, but flavor and sophistication are not lacking by any means.

Stir-Fried Green Beans with Chiles

Dau Dua Xao Ot

1 pound long beans or other green beans, ends trimmed, cut into sections or left whole

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 medium shallots, peeled and sliced into 1/8-inch-thick rings

1 or 2 red jalapeño, serrano, Fresno, or Thai chiles, stemmed and cut into 1/8-inch slices

1 teaspoon sugar

1 tablespoon fish or soy sauce

1 teaspoon hoisin or oyster sauce

2 tablespoons water

Serves 4 to 6 as part of a larger meal

One of the things that surprised me about the food when I first came to Vietnam was how often I was served green beans in private homes and at restaurants. They came steamed, stir-fried, almost plain, and with a myriad of different seasonings. It may have been the peak season for beans, but they are probably available year-round, and their ease of preparation and ability to pair with a wide variety of dishes makes them popular. For the photo of this recipe, I used Chinese long beans, sometimes called chopstick beans in Vietnam, but any green bean or even sugar snap peas could be used. I have chosen to spice the dish up with chiles, but you may elect to keep it milder and allow your guests to add the chiles as they like.

1
Blanch the beans in boiling salted water for about 2 minutes; immediately immerse into ice water to stop the cooking process and to set the color; drain well.

2
Heat the oil to the point of just smoking and add the shallots and chiles, followed by the beans. Stir-fry for about 2 to 3 minutes, or until the beans and shallots have a little dark color around the edges.

3
Add the sugar and fish sauce, and stir for about 15 seconds. Add the hoisin and water, and stir again to mix. Bring the water to a boil briefly, stir again, and remove the beans from the wok to a serving plate.

Steamed Vegetables

Rau Hap

1 or more vegetables (see introduction and feel free to add), washed and cut into bite-size pieces

Serves any number

To go with a meal consisting of rich and/or spicy dishes, sometimes simple and plain, steamed or boiled vegetables are what is needed. On the home table in Vietnam, steamed vegetables make a frequent appearance. Steaming maintains the bright color of fresh vegetables and preserves the nutritional content. The method works with a wide selection of vegetables, from carrots, kohlrabi, broccoli, cauliflower, sweet potatoes, and asparagus, to beans, bok choy, cabbage, and a whole slew of different vines and greens. The cooking times will vary based upon the vegetable used and how large the pieces are. You will learn the timing through experience. There is no need to season them, as they will be dipped in the table sauces or combined with boldly flavored dishes.