Culinary Vietnam (15 page)

Stir-Fried Beef with Crispy Fried Potatoes

Khoai Tay Chien Xao Thit Bo

3 quarts water

2 teaspoons salt

1-1/2 pounds potatoes (white, red rose, Yukon gold, or russet)

1 tablespoon fish sauce

1 teaspoon hoisin or soy sauce

1 teaspoon sugar

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

1-1/2 teaspoons cornstarch, or 1 teaspoon arrowroot

1 shallot, peeled and minced

1 teaspoon minced ginger

1 clove garlic, minced

1-1/4 pounds beef sirloin, chuck, strip, flank, or other steak, sliced about 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick across the grain and then cut into bite-size pieces 1 to 2 cups vegetable oil (depending on the pan used for frying), divided

1 cup beef broth or water

2 tablespoons chopped cilantro (optional)

1 to 2 scallions, cut into 2-inch segments and then finely julienned

Serves 3 to 4 as a main dish or 5 to 8 as part of a larger meal

The French influence is still evident in Vietnamese cooking, albeit filtered through Vietnamese style and practicality. This dish is a fine example of that influence, likely originating with the classic French dish,
bifteck frites.
Many versions of this can be enjoyed at cafes, small restaurants, and even at street vendor stalls; sometimes it is as simple as a piece of beefsteak that is sauced with gravy along with some basic french fries, and often served with a salad of lettuce, cucumbers, and tomatoes on the side. This recipe is a stir-fry that almost makes its own gravy and has the distinctive Vietnamese flavor of fish sauce and cilantro with a touch of ginger. I use a waffle-cut potato slice produced by using a mandoline, as it gives the crispiest results. On the crinkle-slice blade, first slice a thin piece of potato and discard it, then rotate the potato 90 degrees and slice, this will form the waffle cut. Continue rotating after each slice. Regular thin slices will also work fine as well a more typical “french fry” cut. After slicing, keep the potatoes in very cold water to help them stay crisp and to prevent discoloration. This stir-fry could also be served with noodles or rice instead of potatoes.

1
Bring the water and salt to a boil, then blanch the potatoes in 3 to 4 batches for 2 to 3 minutes; immediately rinse in cold water to cool completely, then drain.

2
Mix the fish sauce, hoisin, sugar, pepper, and cornstarch together until smooth. Stir in the shallot, ginger, and garlic. Mix well with the beef slices until all of the surfaces of the meat are coated well.

3
Place 2 to 3 inches oil in a pan that is at least 5 inches deep. Heat the oil to 350 to 365 degrees, or until a few wisps of smoke rise from the surface.

4
Thoroughly blot the potatoes dry with a cloth or paper towel. Fry the potatoes in 2 to 3 batches until golden brown; drain on paper towels.

5
Heat 2 to 3 tablespoons oil in a wok on high heat and add the marinated beef. Stir briefly to spread the slices evenly around on the surface of the wok and let cook until they begin to brown a bit, about 1 to 1-1/2 minutes. Stir and continue cooking for about 3 to 4 minutes more, add the broth, and bring to a boil, cooking until the “gravy” has thickened. Taste for salt and adjust if needed, then stir in the cilantro. Serve the beef and sauce over the crispy potatoes and garnish with the scallions.

Beef Grilled in Wild Pepper Leaves

Bo Nuong La Lot

12 ounces ground beef

2 tablespoons finely minced lemongrass

2 tablespoons finely minced shallots

2 cloves garlic, finely minced

1 tablespoon fish sauce

1 teaspoon sugar

2 teaspoons hoisin or oyster sauce

1/2 teaspoon ground pepper

1 teaspoon yellow curry powder or dry turmeric

30 to 36 La Lot leaves, rinsed and wiped dry (found in Asian markets)

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

Serves 3 to 4

The wild pepper leaf,
piper sarmentosum,
sometimes called betel leak but not related to the common betel, is used to season some dishes in Vietnamese cooking but is more often used to wrap meats for cooking, as in this recipe. There is not much aroma to this leaf until it is cooked, when it releases its peppery herbal flavor. Bo Nuong La Lot is a snack or appetizer item, but when combined with some steamed rice and vegetables, it makes a nice meal. Some of the best places to get Bo Nuong La Lot are at street stands and in the markets, particularly in Saigon. Serve with lettuce and herbs to wrap them or with rice or noodles and some Basic Vietnamese Dipping Sauce.

1
Mix the ground beef with the lemongrass, shallots, garlic, fish sauce, sugar, hoisin, pepper, and curry powder; combine well and let sit for about 30 minutes. Soak 12 bamboo skewers in hot water for 30 minutes; set aside.

2
Lay a La Lot leaf on the counter and center a heaping tablespoon of the meat mixture on the lower third of the leaf. Fold the bottom edge over the filling, and then fold the left and right edges of the leaf to overlap the bottom flap. Roll to form a tight cylinder and set aside; repeat until all of the filling is used.

3
Lay 6 of the rolled cylinders next to each other and slide one skewer through all of the rolls towards one end. Then slide another skewer through the other end. Repeat with the remaining rolls.

4
Preheat a grill to medium. Brush the leaves wrapping the beef with a little of the oil and then place on the grill. Cook slowly, turning occasionally, until the beef is rendering some fat and the leaves are slightly charred, about 6 to 7 minutes. Remove from the heat, let rest a few minutes, remove the skewers, and serve.

Grilled Beef with Okra, Tomatoes, and Pineapple

Bo Nuong

1-1/2 pounds beef sirloin, chuck, or top round, thinly sliced across the grain in about 1 x 2-1/2-inch pieces

Marinade for Grilled Meats

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 shallot, minced

2 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

2 to 3 medium tomatoes, each sliced into 8 wedges

1 medium white onion, cut into 8 wedges

10 to 12 scallions, root ends removed and tops trimmed to about 4 to 5 inches in length

1/2 small-to-medium pineapple, skinned, cored, and sliced across into 1/4-inch-thick slices

6 to 8 large okra pods, stemmed and cut in half lengthwise

Serves 4 to 5

Many versions of this dish exist with a number of variations around the country. All are cooked at the table by the diners; some places have you cook the meat and vegetables on a skillet or pan that is placed over burning coals or a sterno-like parafin burner, and others use a grate for a true char-grilled flavor. Either way is a lot of fun and provides an interactive social experience along with the tasty meal. I based this recipe on two restaurants: an unnamed tiny operation on Ma May Street in Hanoi’s old quarter, and Lac Canh in the beach resort of Nha Trang. The meat is marinated ahead of time; the vegetables and the fruit are lightly coated with shallot-and-garlic-scented oil. The diners then begin to cook some of everything and start eating as items are done. It is a community effort with plenty of flashing chopsticks in play. If you are not set up to have the guests participate in the cooking, it is still a worthy dish to present at the table already plated.

1
Mix the meat with the marinade and set aside for 20 to 30 minutes.

2
Combine the oil with the shallot, garlic, salt, and pepper, and lightly brush the mixture over the tomatoes, onion, scallions, pineapple slices, and okra.

3
Cook the meat slices, vegetables, and fruit on a charcoal or gas grill or on a stovetop grill until done. Serve immediately.

Pork Dishes

Pork is very popular for Vietnamese cooking, probably a legacy from the Chinese and reinforced during the French Colonial period. Most families that live in the countryside try to raise at least a few pigs, from the small, pot-bellied, black varieties of the far north to the larger, fatter, white breeds seen often in the Mekong Delta. This animal provides the meat and byproducts for both everyday meals and special-occasion fare.